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Old 10-21-2017, 03:57 PM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Captain Orso View Post
. You can setup a "Switch" in your key bindings... defined as the 'Master Mode Control Button'
I use that "switch" (a kind of mode selector) through keyboard ScrLk key - due the LED indicating the changing in status - but instead "workarounds" with axis lever, just use joy trigger "lever", find more "British".

And control taxi speed more with throttle/RPM instead wheel brakes, use this only for turns and full stop.
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Old 10-21-2017, 04:01 PM   #22
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Capt........That seems like a good idea, but wouldn't using the pinky lever on the stick be better than the grey button?
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Old 10-21-2017, 08:36 PM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Captain Orso View Post
Short of building a brake lever to mount on your joystick, there is still a different option, at least for throttle sets with two throttle levers. You can setup a "Switch" in your key bindings, the same a you set up your modifiers, except on the right side of the modifiers window, instead of the left.

A switch, which does not necessarily have to have anything to do with a physical switch on one of your HOTAS sets, is like having a modifier that you turn on or off like a ... well switch .

I added a switch defined as the 'Master Mode Control Button' (on the TM HOTAS Joystick, the gray button on the upper right-hand side), naming it 'Finger Button', or something --the name doesn't really matter. Then I bound the the Brake Lever to my TM HOTAS Throttle's left throttle lever, which unmodified is my RPM setting, using the 'Finger Button' as a modifier.

Without pressing the 'Finger Button' the left throttle lever controls the RPM setting and the right the boost. But if I toggle the 'Finger Button' on, the TM HOTAS Throttle's left throttle becomes the Brake Lever, until I toggle the 'Finger Button' again, which then reverts the left throttle to RPM again.

Since on the ground before taking off, your RPM setting is always full forward --3000 RPM-- you actually don't need the RPM lever again --once set to 3000 RPM-- until after takeoff. So once RPM is set to full forward, I toggle the 'Finger Button' and now I have on my throttle quadrant brakes on the left lever and boost on the right lever.

It takes some getting used to, but it allows you to use the brakes in the Spitfire they way they were meant to be used, with very exact dosage.

Just before take-off, left throttle lever --brakes now-- is back all the way to applying no brakes at all. After take-off I toggle the 'Finger Button' to switch the left throttle back to RPM and quickly push it all the way forward to 3000 RPM, so that I don't experience a power drop-off, and then adjust accordingly from there. Now everything is back to 'normal'.

Since when I'm landing, once I've reduced boost to a minimum, I always push the RPM lever all the way forward to 3000 RPM, just in case I need to do a go-around, --RPM's will not actually change, because the lack of engine boost will simply not be able to increase the RPM's-- I again have the left throttle free for using as the brake lever. BUT I have to be very careful to remember, that with the left throttle working as the brake lever, and it being all the way forward --brakes on full-- once pressing the Finger Button on my landing approach, I have to pull the lit all the way back to no-braking before touching down, or else ... interesting things happen

So once I've touched down, I again have brakes left and boost right and I'm ready to roll out and taxi.

Many find this setup too complicated, but everybody's MMV .
That seems like a good idea I think I will adopt it
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Old 10-21-2017, 10:54 PM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sokol1_br View Post
I use that "switch" (a kind of mode selector) through keyboard ScrLk key - due the LED indicating the changing in status - but instead "workarounds" with axis lever, just use joy trigger "lever", find more "British".

And control taxi speed more with throttle/RPM instead wheel brakes, use this only for turns and full stop.
Since I'm using VR, LED's on my keyboard are not useful Anyway, it's mostly a question of routine.

Does the joystick trigger work like an axis? I believe it is simply a two stage button, so there is no fidelity. With the throttle lever you have absolute control over how much brake pressure you are using, which allows you to turn curves quite abally.

I always have RPM at full on the ground, which is what is recommended I believe. So while on the ground, the RPM lever is superfluous and free to be put to better use.

Quote:
Originally Posted by BuzzU View Post
Capt........That seems like a good idea, but wouldn't using the pinky lever on the stick be better than the grey button?
I've had my HOTAS setup for the P-51D for a couple of years, and simply transferred the most of it to the Spitfire. When I started I was using TrackIR and the 'Finger Button' was my re-centering button. Since I don't use it anymore, it was free to be used as a switch.

Quote:
Originally Posted by The Integrator View Post
That seems like a good idea I think I will adopt it
Try it out and see how it works for you. It does take some getting used to, controlling boost and brakes with one hand, and if you don't already, you might need to mount your throttle quadrant so that it can't slide while pushing both levers simultaneously.

A real bicycle brake lever attached to the joystick would really be optimal, but I'm not a terribly talented builder of such things. Besides, I'm lazy AF
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Old 04-13-2018, 08:33 PM   #25
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IN answer to what do others do in the OP. Here are some ideas in the attached .jpgs. 3 aircraft in one file. M for spit, D for 109 U for P-51. Joystick Lever is a modifier and M U and D of the flap switch are the layers.
One simple .fcf file to run is all.

Loving it for the Spitfire.
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Old 04-25-2018, 07:49 PM   #26
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I have changed it up significantly since I read all these posts.
I now have 3 different kinds of brakes working.
1. A button to HOLD for applying which when let go releases the brakes. S3 button
2. A switch (Pinky)PSF & PSB that when thrown on HOLDS the brakes on full and turns on all LED lights and the backlight to warn that the "w" is held down. The lights go off and the W lets go any time the brakes are touched by the S3 or the Pinky switch is moved back to neutral or back and when the canopy is closed it automatically pulses the W to shut it and the lights off as well. Lights are controlled by S3 and or the pinky switch.
3. Toe brakes.
Edit: 4 Increase brakes a bit and decrease are also mapped to buttons.
The rest is self explanatory. If there is an I in front then the lever is held at the same time.
I am going to try to upload the pics and the single .fcf Spit file for your perusal for ideas and how to. Your key bindings will not match but one could look in the file using the Target software.

In the end I find using the joystick Button which is under the flap lever in my case and not the flap lever, seems to be the better way to go. I use pedals as well (analog) and the pseudo work around parking brake I devised in this script. The button/lever seems to be the best and so I would definitely not say someone using pedals is cheating. I have a lot of time on pedals and two missions with the button and I am better at taxiing with the brakes.

The DCS Spitfire.fcf file is in the .zip if you are interested.

edit:New edit fixed guns so pics are not totally accurate. One can print the template in Target GUI by opening the DCS Spitfire FCS there. Keybindings are not stock.

NEVER use Ctl and c in the same string ever even if it is something like ctl-shift-c as in keybindings.
Ctl_c being the old DOS break command that is still in use in the depths.
If you are using ctl as a modifier or part of a keybind never use c with it.
It took me minutes to figure it out. Being old and DOS literate finally came in handy. lol.

Moving on to the 109. This one will do with possibilities of even doubling the number of key presses so far. Target. Never look back.
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Attached Files
File Type: zip DCS_Spitfire_04_26_2018_3.zip (6.4 KB, 10 views)
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Last edited by DeepDrummer; 04-26-2018 at 04:09 PM. Reason: fixed a few things better.
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Old 04-28-2018, 01:59 AM   #27
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I now apply brakes 4 different ways
1. Hold the grey button behind the lever on the joystick (hold). It applies and lets go.
It is the easiest and best way other than an analog Lever which we don't have. So stop whining about cheaters and toe brakes.
It is not the best method as I have just recently found.
2. Toe brakes. Old habits die hard and occasionally I use them. No apologies. It's my deal.
3. I set one switch to PRESS the w key constantly until told to release it by moving the switch back. (think wheel chocks).
4. I set a button to increase brakes a bit and the same button on an i shifted layer to decrease brakes a bit.

I spent the day making LEDs work using only the Taget GUI which will not do everything but it does all I need so far.
Make a copy of your script first. I had to revert to a 2 day old copy and I had to spend an hour getting my proper entries back. Back up first and often to different names.
I made a quick video (45 minutes) to show how to set up the 5 LEDs for the TM wartog.
Disclaimer: I am a basket case with a very bad memory so the commentary is not quite right at times. Regardless there is a lot of good information on how to use the Target GUI to get some LEDs working.
DO not set up the backlight this way using the GUI. It requires more scripting by hand.
DO NOT hit the intensity button which the GUI only writes code for the backlight and both the script manual mention that if you use a release the backlight using the GUI it causes trouble. in the GUI for the backlight it may mess things up.
Comments in the video are disabled to avoid the "tube" ragers, complainers, hackers and trolls.
I believe I had to do some trouble shooting in the last 20 minutes or so which is educational for sure. All LEDs worked properly in the end.
I did another video to prove the concept in flight but my other cam battery died so it doesn't show my controllers. Oh well. It was a nice flight and I may upload that as well but I won't link to it here. How-to LED, click below.

https://youtu.be/XAzsKdiRhXw
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Last edited by DeepDrummer; 04-28-2018 at 02:16 AM. Reason: more info
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Old 04-29-2018, 04:44 PM   #28
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I decided to chain together 7 pulses for the Brake increase and 7 pulses for the brake decrease to apply the brakes on full and hold them there.
No buttons end up in the Pressed on and held that way which eliminates some conflicts. Led1 is on while applied or if the switch is left forward and off when released. Pics attached of the GUI and Code.
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