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Help with blowing engine!


wolfstriked

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Rule of thumb, keep propeller pitch lever slightly above the Throttle and you will seldom experience these random engine failures. During dogfights you can go max power for a long time (pay attention to oil/ coolant temp) and once you get the kill, put the plane in cruise until all the temps go normal. Don't worry about the radiator controls. keep it on auto. If your engine overheats in a dogfight, you are taking too long.

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Well you cant just turn away from a enemy just because it is taking you to long to bring him down, i fly always with the rad's open at least 3/4. In a fight you have way to many extrem MAP/RPM and speedchanges for the automatic to work sufficient.

[sIGPIC][/sIGPIC]

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Thanks for the advice guys.Just now I flew a 1/2 hour with no engine seize,though I have no idea which advice is the one that helped.:D

 

All said I still feel the P51's radiators just don't cool well enough.Here is a video I just posted that shows me at cruise settings and you will notice my temp gauge is high and the only way to bring the temps down is to lower rpm drastically.Put the settings back to optimal cruise and the temps go right back up which makes for the climb to alt always at high temps.

 

Te thing that I wonder about is which temp gauge to read.The main gauge(?) I keep an eye on says 85deg while the actual coolant temp gauge reads 100.:huh:

 

 

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AsD6tupJDpU

 

The auto radiators don't cool well enough, for whatever reason. Before you start taxi, hold Ctrl + A and Ctrl + S for about 25 seconds or you can go to outside view and watch it open under the aircraft. This take the radiators out of automatic and opens them, in manual. As long as you do this and make sure the levers are forward as someone mentioned, you should be good. You can also go to full rich with the mixture when you're at low alt to help cool the engine.

 

Also, look at the placard to the left. It shows engine settings, use them. I've rarely seen a reason to use WEP. Normally I'll fight with 50" and 2800 rpms. In fact, if you use that for everything after takeoff, you should be fine. I mean, don't go over 0". Occasionally I'll go to 55 in a fight, but not often.

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Thanks again fellas,lots of useful info posted.

 

I now run with the rads always fully open as damage from the engine getting super cold takes a long time to actually cause any noticeable damage OR is non existent. :dunno:

"Its easy,place the pipper on target and bombs away." :pilotfly:

 

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If i remember correctly, speed lost is 8 MPH true speed for 61inHg/3000RPM at low alt, 5 - 15 m above water on default map.

Between fully close and max. open oil rad.

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  • 1 year later...

There are good posts on this elsewhere but I will add my experience as a former engine builder/racer.

The explosion in the cylinder wants to push the piston down. The load on the crankshaft (prop, weight of the plane, resistance), tries to resist the piston going down. This puts severe pressure on the thrust side of the Piston and the cylinder wall.

The lower RPMs used with high thrust/throttle/boost is called lugging. Pistons an cylinder walls get gouged, scrubbed, metal embedded and finally fail. Non of that has all that much to do with temperature. If the Sim is modeled realistically, it takes these factors into account and causes severe wear and failure. One may very well not see any clear indication on any guage. Low RPM and high boost will cost you too. Those old beasts were probably using a 50 or 60 weight oil (very thick). That is why you have the option of diluting it. High oil pressure can be just as scary an indicator as low oil pressure. The P-51 Manual is a must read. I open and close rads and coolers regularly.

I once attended tractor pulls regularly and back in the day a lot of them used Merlins since they were a dime a dozen for a while.

Sitting in the stands when the increasing load of the sled (simulated prop hanging) gets to be so much that the tractor is barely moving and the RPMs are coming down and the machine is straining super hard right in front of you, you just cringe hoping the flying parts don't hit you. At that point, you don't need any math, physics, theory, or rumours. You KNOW beyond a shadow of a doubt that adding Boost without RPM is insanity.No need for guages there. That shudder near stall when you're givin' 'er? That's piston metal balling up on your cylinder wall (or potentially and eventually). It WILL stop and break a connecting rod very suddenly a while later on. That's just your engine saying "You shouldn't have added Boost to RPM. AT least in proper theory, that is the way it should work. Lugging (low rpm high boost) also creates heat and part killing detonation.

How hard would you have to hit an engine block with a hammer to hear it in the cockpit? If you hear detonation? Bad.

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"Everyone should fly a Spitfire at least once" John S. Blyth

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i take off with 48" map / 3000 rpm, i stay with that untill everything is on green. i keep the speed up until then, only after everything is on green i start to climb.

i never go wep below 300mph, if my plane is heavy i dont wep, no matter the speed.

both levers full front (ram air and cold).

 

i prime and dillute oil before start about 2 seconds both (starts like a dream).

 

this is my recipe for keeping the engine running. works ok'ish.

 

i still get random engine blows without any indication of problem (everything on green, map <61" speed above 300 mph)

 

could be that i have broken some of these "rules" during fight, as i cant allways be watching the gauges, but sometimes i could swear that i didn't deviate from the above mentioned quidelines.

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It IS a puzzle sometimes. I figure it must be cumulative as is should be.

Indeed it is wise to cool things down after a fight but one must always remember, simply cooling it back off does not repair any damage caused. In real life anyway.

Consider if the abuse broke a piston ring. It's no big deal for a while but it begins to pound the snot out of the piston and eventually a chunk breaks off that and gets jammed between the piston and the head. *screeeech* seized only in the fact that it stopped and will no longer turn. There are two kids of seized, Parts welding themselves together from lack of lubrication or too much heat or from broken parts bouncing around.

You should see what dirt in a Supercharger or Turbo can do.

I have no problem using all the fuel up anyway but I probably baby it a bit. I mostly follow the P-51 Flight Manual's recommendations.

Consider the load on the engine as well. There is not near the load going downhill or even level flight and so one should be able to throttle up quicker with less penalty. Low RPM, Low speed, High Throttle under LOAD is instant *screech*. It is the LOAD that makes the piston want to go sideways through the cylinder wall instead of down on the power stroke. The factors are many. I too shake my head at times.

Win 10 pro 64 bit. Intel i7 4790 4 Ghz running at 4.6. Asus z97 pro wifi main board, 32 gig 2400 ddr3 gold ram, 50 inch 4K UHD and HDR TV for monitor. H80 cpu cooler. 8 other cooling fans in full tower server case. Soundblaster ZX sound card. EVGA 1080 TI FTW3. TM Hotas Wartog. TM T.16000M MFG Crosswinds Pedals. Trackir 5.

"Everyone should fly a Spitfire at least once" John S. Blyth

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