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HMA's cockpit build


Hansolo

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  • 4 weeks later...

A little update in the building process.

 

I have finally managed to get my modified landing gear panel up and running. Seeing Anton's outstanding work gave me a lot of good idea to the mechanical side. Thanks a lot. It is a easy solution utilizing the Helios screen to show the landing gear and flaps indication. The TEMS DATA button is not used in the simulator so I have hot-wired the on-off switch for the LCD instead.

 

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RutKkDSRYc0

 

The CMSP panel is progressing. Still missing to hook up the new LCD display black with green letters to the Arduino board but I am getting there.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/110638664999?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2649

 

Finally I by accident came to buy an Asus GTX680 4GB card and after some struggling with getting it to work it is not online running at 45-50fps while the old one did only 20-25 fps :thumbup:

 

Cheers

 

Hans

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  • 1 month later...

Yes... finally it got hold of a oxygen regulator panel via E-bay. Pretty sure this is going to work in the cockpit with a little fiddling about.

 

Also got hold of an IFF panel from a Nimrod. Not identical to the A-10 but some of the parts look familiar. Since this is not functioning in the game I haven't decided yet if I am going install as is or modify to resemble the real one.

 

More good stuff is on its way once it has passed customs :(

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  • 1 month later...

Push-pull potentiometers

 

Hello gents,

 

Not really an update of the pit building as I am still strugling with getting the house ready.

 

However that does not mean that I cannot buy stuff and have therfore just recived these Allen Bradley push-pull potentiometers from the US;

http://www.electronicsurplus.com/Item/157068-1.jpg

 

They look absolutely perfect for the Intercom panel which is why I bought them :music_whistling:The difference in length between push and pulled is app. 3'ish mm. I guess that it is probably 1/8"

 

Please observe though that they are NOT 1Kohms. I have measured them to app. 10Kohms. Anyway I am certain they will do the job. A small test reveal them to be linear.

 

Cheers

 

Hans

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I like how you build your home-pit and how you get skill.

You began with Leobodnar card and now you program your own card and LCD.

It isn't easy to have enougth energy and time to do all you did and all you want to do.

 

Great job HMA.

 

I wish you courage.

UniversRadio for DCS : http://universradio.fr

Homepit on eagle.ru forum :http://forums.eagle.ru/showpost.php?p=1547848&postcount=1 (more details : http://www.tacnoworld.fr)

3rd-Wing.net/75th vFighter "Tiger Sharks"/S-01 Tacno (squadron commander)

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Thanks you very much for the kind words Tacno. I have gained much experience and inspiration from a lot of great pit-builders including yourself. Yours is among the finest pits I have seen.

Luckily for me most of the problems I run into have already been solved by someone and it is all a matter of finding the info and I learn from it. Other times it is just trial and error. Takes a little longer but it is of great satisfaction once it succeeds.

 

Cheers

 

Hans

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Don't hesitate to ask anything. The posts or web sites are the top of the iceberg, and they don't tell all. Also, find oneself can please...

 

Cheers

 

Tacno

UniversRadio for DCS : http://universradio.fr

Homepit on eagle.ru forum :http://forums.eagle.ru/showpost.php?p=1547848&postcount=1 (more details : http://www.tacnoworld.fr)

3rd-Wing.net/75th vFighter "Tiger Sharks"/S-01 Tacno (squadron commander)

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  • 1 month later...

Panel indicators

 

Small update on the pit building. Pit has been re-installed in basement of our new house and has been up and running several time :thumbup:

 

I have been trying to find indicators for the panel, i.e. GUN READY, STEERING ENGAGED etc. Got some very good technical assistance from Deadman who has access the real indicators. Many thanks for your assistance Deadman. Much appreciated.

Taking into consideration that my pit isn't MIL spec build I finally settled on these from OpenCockpits:

 

http://www.opencockpits.com/catalog/customized-indicatorbox-p-356.html?cPath=23_43

and PCB's

http://www.opencockpits.com/catalog/pcb-for-indicators-p-309.html?cPath=23_43

 

They do NOT hold the MIL spec dimensions. But they come engraved to the text I specified. I made a mistake when specifying. The indicators for emergency flight panel should not have ahd a dotted line, but this was what I sent in the text file :music_whistling:

 

I have to figure a way to attach the text plate to the box but I expect glue can do the trick. Here is a small Youtube with the first trial:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZlddWXhGrvY&feature=youtu.be

 

The PCB with 5mm LED's will keep themself in place when pushed into the box.

 

I am pretty satified with the indicator and box kit. The price is batter than what I could have imagined building myself, although tax and shipping need to be included.

 

Now I just need to mod the panels and front to install the indicators :thumbup:

 

Cheers

Hans

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  • 1 month later...

Small update again. Finally got my look-alike seat painted and running. The ejection handles are connected harwired to the game, although it need three pull to activate.

The amrning handle is also working using a small reed-relay and a magnet. Still need to find/make a suitable back cushoin but all in due time. I also need to figure out a sliding rail system that doesn't take up too much height. I plan to use one or two linear 12V actuators (100mm) to provide electrical sliding movement of the seat to ease entering/exiting the seat. The head rest is not too good. Will have to take a close look at how HarSu did because that is excellent work

 

Made a pedistal for the joystick which is mounted on the floor. Just beneath the pedistal the flat cables for Brydlings B256A13 card connection to right side panels are running.

 

Latesly I go the Intercom almost up and running. Bought this one in Israel and hoped the push-pull function was included.... It was not. The light plate looks like it was originally made similar to the one in the A-10 because some of the holes (HM and CALL) have been closed and the hole for selector switch was replaced with a multipole connector. Looking back the panel was not really worth the money but what the heck. It is now running with push-pull potentiometers except HM. Once I get the indicator plate done for the selector switch the hole will not be visible. Probably later the light plate will be re-engraved after seeing hoel6466 nice thread on the construction. Thanks a lot.

 

That was it for now.

 

Cheers

Hans

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Hi HMA.

 

Do you have any details of your plans how to move seat?

 

My plan was use the cordless drill motor and some gears and chain, but I have not figured out how I do it that I don´t lose ability to seat height adjust.

 

Keep up the great work!

 

HarSu.

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Hi HarSu,

 

No not yet. I am still trying to figure that one out. I am considering buying a set of car seat rails but am looking for a crap yard where I can pick up one relatively cheap.

If I find the great solution I will let you know.

 

Cheers

Hans

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  • 5 months later...

Direct binding of joystick controller and my CDU drawings

 

Not really that much progress in the pit building. But a few small items to share.

 

DOES NOT WORK WITH 1.2.8.

First. I have been struggling some time with lag in my Helios setup. Not the instruments, but on both analogue as well as digital inputs. Some of it was caused by too big potentiometer, and thanks to asssisstance from Brydling :thumbup:, I got that sortet. However it seems that when adding Dofile to my Helios export some lag is introduced. I am running both TARS and Tacview. At least enough to irritate me.

 

Many of my digital input has always been mapped through the Options - Controls as they are clearly define, i.e. CDU/UFC buttons, Landing gear up/down. However a lot of the other I used Helios to work e.g. Taxi light, IFFCC ON, CICU ON etc.

 

Now I have gotten the remaining digital inputs mapped directly through to the game without Helios based upon some very good advice from Tietze :thumbup: This means no more lag when I push a button :lol: I think I could picked this info up in TigersharkBAS' thread http://forums.eagle.ru/newreply.php?do=newreply&noquote=1&p=1855660 but need an explanation of if :smilewink:

 

My inputs are spread over several joystick controllers but I have merged them all input one .lua which has been attached. Please feel free to use. Just copy the lines need, change the JOY_BTN number to match your input and commen out the original lines.

Note! YAW/PITCH SAS ENGAGE, ANTI-SKID and ANTI-COLLISION tends flip of if starting in a hot aircraft, although the are set on by hardwire. They stay on if set on in a cold aircraft. Havent been able to figured that out yet, sorry.

 

Second. I got a question from a fellow builder MacFevre if I could share my CDU plan. I have no problem with that as I am not going to make a production out of it. Also it is NOT mil spec. My screen size is too big and the button have been placed to match 2.54 pitch prototype boards. I have used two. One for alphanumeric and numeric key area, and one for LSK as well as SYS NAV etc.

Anyway this might give you an idea of how to construct using a router. It available in Aspire, dxf and dwg format. Mind you it does not hold MIL Spec!!

 

Use what you can :smilewink: Again thaks a lot to Brydling and Tietze for the assistance.

 

Cheers

Hans

HMA_direct_joystick_bindings.rar

CDU.rar


Edited by Hansolo
Inputs does not work after 1.2.8
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  • 3 weeks later...

Yes absolutely, I get made fun of with what little I've done with my pit. its not really a pit, but it "my pit". and it pales in comparison, but it's mine.

 

I really wish I could make one of these, you've made what little we put in to ours seem justifiable. "look honey, we could have one of these in the living room"... That'd be sooo cool....

 

Thanks for making me also not so kookoo. I've found that I really like looking at these pits/projects.

 

I don't see your coffee cup warmer??

[sIGPIC][/sIGPIC]

 

 

MoBo: SaberTooth P67 B3 CPU: i7 2600K OC'd 4.434 Cooling: H100, Nine Asorted Fans GPU: EVGA Drvr344.75 GTX 780 and 580 w/physX MEM: Patriot Viper Xtrm 16GB Power: Antec HGC-900 HRD: Samsung SSD 256GB, WD 2TB wPageFile OS: Win7pro 64b Display: AcerHN274H-nVidia3D 27", Qty2 BenQ GW2750HM 27", Asus VS208 24", Qty2 Lilliput U80/c Input: G13, G110, G700s, TM WortHog, Saitek Cmbt Rudder, TM MFCDs, TrackIR5 Sound: Z906, G930w/IR5/Pwr. Pack Chair: See Album

 

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I hear you Spokejokey. I do the same to my girlfriend. I just show her Gremlin77's pit. "Look honey, he's gotten a real Tornado fuselage in the house" :megalol:

The coffee warmer is missing though. Maybe I could build in a coffee machine that powers up when battery power is applied :smilewink:

 

I totally agree Propnut. It is a great community

 

Cheers

Hans

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I show people at work my set up and some think I'm crazy and others think it's cool. I love this crazy hobby!

i7-4820k @ 3.7, Windows 7 64-bit, 16GB 1866mhz EVGA GTX 970 2GB, 256GB SSD, 500GB WD, TM Warthog, TM Cougar MFD's, Saitek Combat Pedals, TrackIR 5, G15 keyboard, 55" 4K LED

 

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Hi Hans,

I plan on using your idea to connect the Brydling board to my panels. Just waiting on switches and the plastic to laze the panels. I was checking out your lua file but I don't understand it yet. want to try to use it to eliminate the lag you spoke of. Will this file allow me to use 1 switch input for say the battery button like Helios does?

Thanks,

John

Asus ROG C6H | AMD Ryzen 3600 @ 4.2Ghz | Gigabyte Aorus Waterforce WB 1080ti | 32Gb Crucial DDR4/3600 | 2Tb Intel NVMe drive | Samsung Odyssey+ VR | Thrustmaster Warthog | Saitek pedals | Custom geothermal cooling loop with a homemade 40' copper heat exchanger 35' in the ground

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I may be making some sense of it. The below from your lua means that when you activate the switch it turn on. Then when you deactivate it, it turns off. Is that right?

 

 

{combos = {{key = "JOY_BTN89"}}, down = 3001, up = 3001, cockpit_device_id = 1, value_down = 1, value_up = 0, name = "APU generator power", category = "Electrical power control panel"}

 

how do you know the 3001 value and the device id #?

Asus ROG C6H | AMD Ryzen 3600 @ 4.2Ghz | Gigabyte Aorus Waterforce WB 1080ti | 32Gb Crucial DDR4/3600 | 2Tb Intel NVMe drive | Samsung Odyssey+ VR | Thrustmaster Warthog | Saitek pedals | Custom geothermal cooling loop with a homemade 40' copper heat exchanger 35' in the ground

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Thick8, yes that is correct. When switch is on so is APU GEN. When switch is off so is APU GEN.

 

Let me get back to you later today. I am at work and can't remember the exact names for finding the info.

 

Ha ha found the thread from SparkOV which expains it very well: http://forums.eagle.ru/showpost.php?p=1434598&postcount=2

 

The Button_ + 3000 can be found in another file, that I will have to get back to you on. But +3000 applies for all the button_

 

The last half of SparkOV's is related to export and for this you don't need it.

 

Cheers

Hans


Edited by Hansolo
Found a good link
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I hear you Spokejokey. I do the same to my girlfriend. I just show her Gremlin77's pit. "Look honey, he's gotten a real Tornado fuselage in the house" :megalol:

The coffee warmer is missing though. Maybe I could build in a coffee machine that powers up when battery power is applied :smilewink:

 

I totally agree Propnut. It is a great community

 

Cheers

Hans

 

My other half is a trolley dolly so im really tempted to wire in a "hostess call" interface :)

 

Actually now i have the electronics wherewithall im tempted to put small LCD screen into the kitchen so i can just request refreshments...... :)

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