New pedals or fix for old

I fly only WWII birds. Right now I have Saitek pro which is about 5 yrs. old. My problem with them is that they have developed some twitching, also when I use the left side it will some times spike to full right and I must then go full left again to get straight, it really messes a good lined up shot :mad: I have cleaned the pedals as best I can with out opening them up.

If new ones are the way to go I am looking at:

Logitech G Saitek Pro., VKB or MFG Crosswinds.

I've read the reviews on all and I am thinking either VKB, or MFG.

Just need some input on the above, thanks.:thumbup:

Crosswinds all the way man!! These things are fabulous, have been using mine since Dec of 2015 and they are flawless. And so customizable.

Very worth the money!

If new ones are the way to go I am looking at:

Logitech G Saitek Pro., VKB or MFG Crosswinds.

Logitech G Saitek PRO is the same model of you have now (with potentiometer subject to wear with use - to be fair your last longer).

VKB (T-Rudder) is very good but don't have "Joe Brakes" only virtual "British Brakes" using joystick button (so is not issue for British, Italian and most Russian WWII era fighters).

MFG Crosswind will cost more, but probable will be the last pedal you buy. :D

Go with the Crosswinds, you will not regret it, they are well worth the money.

+1

Thanks guys,

I'll be ordering the Crosswinds. Might have to wait awhile as it appears that the next batch will not be shipping until July.

Check out Baur's pedals too, if you have not purchased already. Really nice, love my F3's.

Z...

I highly recommend Baur's F2 pedals with a damper if you're into DCS WW2. If you're on a budget, then there are other options like F3, as Barefoot Bandit mentioned. GREAT pedals.

I highly recommend Baur's F2 pedals with a damper if you're into DCS WW2. If you're on a budget, then there are other options like F3, as Barefoot Bandit mentioned. GREAT pedals.

I have had a pair of CH pedals for years and years. Always found them a bit too close together, but otherwise pretty decent.

I finally decided to do a massive updgrade, I fly DCS choppers almost exclusively these days, and I opted for the Baur BDR "Kamov" style, in kit form. They look great and I only read positive comments about Baur's designs and products.

I had considered building my own from scratch, but once I added up the cost of all the components, and the time, the Baur kit option seems incredible value. All bearings and laser cut panels, great looking designs and reportedly excellent quality and functionality.

Check them out!

M

Crosswinds are heavenly, The only problem with Crosswinds is they are way nicer than any pedals you'd find in most planes. ;) The spring rate although adjustable is pretty strong and so a solid seat setup and a mount for the pedals is best for absolute accuracy heaven. I know it's wrong but I don't even look at rudder trim before taking off usually anymore. Milan is a great guy and as an added bonus he also sells a 7.5 cm extension for the TM hotas wartog joystick. While you're there. ;)

I calibrated my Crosswinds when I got them a year ago. I use them 2-4 hrs or more a day.

They have remained flawless. No regrets.

I can second the crosswinds (and warthog extension). Fantastic quality

Crosswinds have been ordered. Message I received MFG is that they will ship mid July. For now I'll just work with what I have.:(

BTW, thanks for all the input.:thumbup:

Crosswinds have been ordered. Message I received MFG is that they will ship mid July. For now I'll just work with what I have.:(

 

BTW, thanks for all the input.:thumbup:

:thumbup:

You will love them!

That is not bad on delivery, used to be lead time was longer.

Scavenge, change pots

Good day

I had old pedals from thrustmaster (RCS) made of solid steel. I ve figured out that the X52 pots are really crap and I ve changed them for better ones. Eventually I ve ended up connecting the rudders to the X52 and blocking the yaw on the stick.

You may save your pots for a couple of years buy using a spay (clean contact).

Good luck.

Digikey might be your best friend to find pots.

Good day

I had old pedals from thrustmaster (RCS) made of solid steel. I ve figured out that the X52 pots are really crap and I ve changed them for better ones. Eventually I ve ended up connecting the rudders to the X52 and blocking the yaw on the stick.

You may save your pots for a couple of years buy using a spay (clean contact).

Good luck.

Hi TripleSeven.

Any chance you could start a new thread providing info on how you changed the pots, or what you looked for when researching replacement pots. I wanted to do the same thing with my x52, but gave up as I have not enough understanding of electroincs to be able to decide what is required to source replacements that will work.

I think that if the pots were replaced with quality equipment that doesn't judder like jelly in an earthquake, the joystick would be awesome...

Much thanks in advance (if you do it :))

Sent from my E6653 using Tapatalk

Gruezie dhevans79

Look at that videos

For the rudder this is what I ve done.

a) Opened the X52, looked for the pot and for the values written on it.

b) Looked at the pot on the RCS and purchased the same pot but with the value from the X52 (value in ohms and linear pot of course).

c) Cut the wires from the pot inside the stick and routed the wires to the RCS.

In Switzerland, the easy source for finding parts is Conrad, unless you have a local store near by, the only one I know close for me is in Geneva. Since the specs are available on the site it is not hard to find the same pot. Example here http://www.conrad.ch/ce/fr/overview/0241710/Potentiometres-rotatifs?filterVariation=lin%C3%A9aire

Cheers,

And that is why I will never buy another Saitek product (even though they're now Logitech).

I have owned so many of their sticks, yokes, throttles, Pedals etc. And they are made with the cheapest possible potentiometers.

All my current gear (from my fantastic Komodo Sim helicopter stuff, to my thrustmaster warthog and Crosswind pedals) now have Hall Sensors.

No need to worry any more, no more spiking, or constant cleaning

Or spent a bit more (relative to buy a quality pot*) and buy BiTech 6127 HALL sensor (60 degress or less model) and replace in RCS, then plug in Saitek X-52 "twist" pot wires.

http://uk.farnell.com/bi-technologies-tt-electronics/6127v1a60l-5/sensor-hall-0-2v-20v-to-10v-60deg/dp/2319671?MER=bn_level5_5NP_EngagementRecSingleItem_3

* Problem for replace pot in joystick is that although is easy find the same values, e.g. 50K is virtually impossible find one with the same "electric angle" - the area of pot that read voltage variation from 0 to 5v (0r 3.5v). Joystick use ~30 to 60 degrees models.

Using a 270/300 degrees "electric angle" pot you don't achieve the 0 to 5v variation and thus reduce the axis resolution - always low in X-52 twist, 8 bits (256 "steeps").