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My cockpit progress


WhoMadeWho

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Thought I'd share some photos of my A10C cockpit build progress. The front panel is partial and on a test stand.

 

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I REALLY need to figure out RS485/RS487. 23 COM ports are being used... Sometimes I have issues with them going read-only (per SOCAT).

 

:pilotfly:

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Fantastic work so far WhoMadeWho!

 

If I might ask, how does the attitude indicator work? That is one instrument I could not figure out a simple way of making work mechanically.

 

 

Hi jrsteensen, I've not yet tackled the attitude indicator. This is an actual instrument out of a Blackhawk helicopter. Its electrically driven and has no gyros inside. I believe it was a backup indicator incase the gyro indicator on the pilots side went inop.

 

My plans for it are to see if I can drive the original (24-volt I believe) motors with an Ardunio. For this, I believe I'll need something to step-up the voltage. For centering I've been using an IR light sensor on my DG indicator, however this has been somewhat unreliable. Of course if anyone has done a real attitude indicator with DCS-BIOS, I'd love to see it. I've seen many folks using LCD displays, but for me I want the real mechanical indicator.

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Beautiful work @WhoMadeWho :thumbup: With your skill level you will have no issue figuring out RS485 but in case you got questions just let me know Sir.

 

Cheers

Hans

 

Thanks Hans! I'll be sourcing some RS485 chips/boards tonight. I found a few threads on here to get me started. My poor USB bus! :smilewink::smilewink:

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Looks excellent WhoMadeWho!

 

Love all the gauges but what screen did you use for the RWR? I've been struggling to find something good for it.

 

Hi Boltz,

 

I had trouble finding small display as well. I ended up using a 3.5 inch screen which only has a composite input. Due to this, I'm using a VGA to composite converter I got off Amazon. The monitor itself is from Adafruit - https://www.adafruit.com/product/913

 

Here are a few photos showing how it went together. The monitor is mounted in portrait orientation in a box I made on my CNC. The screws on the face are fake (just screw heads glued on) due to space issues. The target reticle was done with neon green acrylic on my CNC. Hope this info helps!

 

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Edited by WhoMadeWho
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Thanks Hans! I'll be sourcing some RS485 chips/boards tonight. I found a few threads on here to get me started. My poor USB bus! :smilewink::smilewink:

 

WOW... and I thought my pit was a rats nest of wires:lol: But the end result is excellent, to say the least.

 

As to your wanting to go with RS-485, You should not be purchasing the RS-485 chip, but instead, buy the RS-487. That was what Ian intended we use for our networks.

Regards

John W

aka WarHog.

 

My Cockpit Build Pictures...



John Wall

 

My Arduino Sketches ... https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1-Dc0Wd9C5l3uY-cPj1iQD3iAEHY6EuHg?usp=sharing

 

 

WIN 10 Pro, i8-8700k @ 5.0ghz, ASUS Maximus x Code, 16GB Corsair Dominator Platinum Ram,



AIO Water Cooler, M.2 512GB NVMe,

500gb SSD, EVGA GTX 1080 ti (11gb), Sony 65” 4K Display

VPC MongoosT-50, TM Warthog Throttle, TRK IR 5.0, Slaw Viper Pedals

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WOW... and I thought my pit was a rats nest of wires:lol: But the end result is excellent, to say the least.

 

As to your wanting to go with RS-485, You should not be purchasing the RS-485 chip, but instead, buy the RS-487. That was what Ian intended we use for our networks.

 

Thanks Warhog for the RS-487 advice! I have RS-487 8 pin DIPs on order along with sockets for them. I've not been able to find any ready made boards that have RS-487 chips for Arduinos for some reason - only ones with 485s. My RS-487 chips were ordered from Digikey and not eBay, so hopefully I won't run into issues with counterfeit chips running hot or not working at all. I recall reading more than a few threads on here with folks having multiple issues with the 485s.

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I've bought them in bulk from China through AliExpress, and yes I have had a few that had heat issues with some that ended up destroying themselves. I didn't know the cheaper ones had a history of thermal issues. I've since installed a pull-down resistor on the RE'/DE line since I noticed I had issues mainly when removing the Arduino from the 487 for programming. I assumed it was that pin floating and going into constant transmit mode. Anyway so far no more thermal issues.

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Thanks Warhog for the RS-487 advice! I have RS-487 8 pin DIPs on order along with sockets for them. I've not been able to find any ready made boards that have RS-487 chips for Arduinos for some reason - only ones with 485s. My RS-487 chips were ordered from Digikey and not eBay, so hopefully I won't run into issues with counterfeit chips running hot or not working at all. I recall reading more than a few threads on here with folks having multiple issues with the 485s.

 

I have some PCB designs for 8 pin DIP's that might be of some help. Send me your email address and I’ll send you what I have.

 

Btw, your RWR, what is the overall width and height of your front plate. I wasn’t hopefull of finding a display that would fit within the available space. To bad no one makes a square 3” display.

Regards

John W

aka WarHog.

 

My Cockpit Build Pictures...



John Wall

 

My Arduino Sketches ... https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1-Dc0Wd9C5l3uY-cPj1iQD3iAEHY6EuHg?usp=sharing

 

 

WIN 10 Pro, i8-8700k @ 5.0ghz, ASUS Maximus x Code, 16GB Corsair Dominator Platinum Ram,



AIO Water Cooler, M.2 512GB NVMe,

500gb SSD, EVGA GTX 1080 ti (11gb), Sony 65” 4K Display

VPC MongoosT-50, TM Warthog Throttle, TRK IR 5.0, Slaw Viper Pedals

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I have some PCB designs for 8 pin DIP's that might be of some help. Send me your email address and I’ll send you what I have.

 

Btw, your RWR, what is the overall width and height of your front plate. I wasn’t hopefull of finding a display that would fit within the available space. To bad no one makes a square 3” display.

 

Thanks Warhog, I'll PM you my email address.

 

Here's the dimensions of my RWR. Very tight getting the monitor to fit, but it works. Since using screws would put holes thru the screen, I ended up using strong double-sided tape to stick the entire assembly to my panel.

 

Width (X) = 73.138 mm

Height (Y) = 78.89 mm

 

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