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Opentrack track clip with fixed ir led


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I recently put all my efforts on making a functional head tracking system. After a few searches i found that the most used is Opentrack.

Once known that, I started with buying the components:

- PS3 eye camera (get from ebay for only u$s 4)

- 3 ir leds

- wires, soldering, etc

- attachment device (found an old motorola belt mount in my house)

- usb conector (this is used to power the leds)

- 39ohms resistor for a 90ma current -30ma per led- (this is connected in serial with leds and leds are conected in parallel).

 

 

The ps3 must be "hacked" to get a better reading of the leds and disregard all other lights.

This one was useful for me

 

Now bulding the led clip:

 

image.jpg

 

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Finished

image.jpg

 

 

Then i found a problem, the led is hardly seen when its seen from the side, after a lot of tries testing different materials to make a diffuser i found the simplest answer.... Use sand paper in the leds.

So here how it looks:

 

Sanding led and normal led

image.jpg

 

Testing... normal led left - sanding led right

image.jpg

 

How it is seen by the camera... Normal led left - sanding led right -( front view)

As you can see the sanding leds looks more detailed, only a big defined dot

(Disregard the middle led view its other kind of filter that i was testing)

image.jpg

 

Lateral view.... Normal led left and sanding led right

image.jpg

 

 

I hope that you found out this useful. I wnated to share that you can use any cheap IR led with perfect results, and no need for go and try to find a specific or hard to find model....

 

 

Lets smming :joystick:

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And this is my headtracker. Plus, I sticked a dark-brown film on web-cam (you know, a little piece from old mechanic camera films' first frames). Open Track reads red-light very nice.

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And this is my headtracker. Plus, I sticked a dark-brown film on web-cam (you know, a little piece from old mechanic camera films' first frames). Open Track reads red-light very nice.

 

 

Good work! Im thinking about to move to this kind of clip shape.... Because the clip is always aligned with the camera.... With mine I'm having "troubles" because when I zoom in the relative position of the clip (on my left) induced a little movement to the right...

Intel i5 11700F + H80 | 4x4GB 3200mhz RAM | AORUS ELITE B560M | Samsung 850 PRO SSD 256gb| KINGSTON SA400 480GB SSD | WD 500GB | Gigabyte GTX 1070 8GB | Antec 1200 PSU | Thrustmaster Warthog HOTAS and homemade panels and rudder pedals | 24" Samsung T24C550 @60Hz 2ms | Opentrack 3 led clip

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You're right. I tried triple thing, but -as you said- somehow I couldn't be comfortable.

 

Plus, I wear glasses (for eyes). When I turn my head right or left, reflection from my glasses was being a problem for headtrack software. :)

i7-2600 @3.4GHz | Corsair 16GB @1600MHz. | MSI GTX1660Ti Gaming X | Samsung 256GB SSD (Win10HPx64)
Samsung G5 32" + Samsung 18" + 2x8"TFT Displays | Saitek X-55 Rhino & Rudder | TM MFD Cougars | Logitech G13, G230, G510, PZ55 & Farming Sim Panel | TIR5
>>MY MODS<< | Discord: Devrim#1068

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I also wear glasses and I cured the reflection issue by making sure the middle led was far enough forward to be past the rim of my glasses. Devrim, I may have to give your style a try though! I cured the reflection problem but now it interferes with my coffee drinking.

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Hey you.

I am also wearing glasses.

And so my solution looks like this. Some improved meanwhile but almost same.

attachment.php?attachmentid=123880&d=1444407208

 

Replaced 3mm IR-LEDs with 5mm IR ones.

 

 

Works really fine with FaceTrackNoIR :)

Manual for my version of RS485-Hardware, contact: tekkx@dresi.de

Please do not PM me with DCS-BIOS-related questions. If the answer might also be useful to someone else, it belongs in a public thread where it can be discovered by everyone using the search function. Thank You.

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... Never thought to strap it to a pair of glasses!

Thats why I posted it here :)

 

Sometimes (or: over times) it can become some annoying to change specs each time you want to move away from the cockpit.

Right now ("now" is relative cause I think about a lot of things) I think about a gimmick for easy removing and replugging the IR-clip.

 

The quest is, to bring that thing with a single move (without seeing anything - it is besides your head) in a very exact determined position (without degrading calibration of FtNIR).

 

Two pairs of very heavy powered Neodyme Magnets could do this Job... (still thinking about).

Manual for my version of RS485-Hardware, contact: tekkx@dresi.de

Please do not PM me with DCS-BIOS-related questions. If the answer might also be useful to someone else, it belongs in a public thread where it can be discovered by everyone using the search function. Thank You.

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SO you dont need any capacitors for the LEDs? Im sick on my track clip getting freaked out and all of a sudden my view is reversed I want an LED version.

 

Last time it freaked out I was about to AIM-9 a Mig, luckily I kept in the turn and got the tone and the kill....

 

Sorry just re-read you ingredients list - how do you work out what resistors you need if using a usb power supply?

 

Also, does it improve tracking if you make the LEDs further apart or closer together? eg if it were like devrims say a 1 inch arm compared to a 4 inch arm...


Edited by Mr_Burns
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... Im sick on my track clip getting freaked out and all of a sudden my view is reversed I want an LED version.

...

 

Thow the question isn't directed to me:

It depends not just on length of arms ... Most important: You need a clean calibration of your clip (no matter, how it looks like).

Main thing is, LEDs mustn't cover each other at some positions. FtNIR has to "see" three LEDs at each time and position.

 

Also (somewhere in FtNIR - now don't remember where) you can determine behavior of your (virtual) position if FtNIR looses track.

My tracker looses Track everytime I nick down to look at some Instruments like CDU or AAP or the ashtray... virtual Head (at my configuration) stays where it was until tracking goes on.


Edited by Tekkx

Manual for my version of RS485-Hardware, contact: tekkx@dresi.de

Please do not PM me with DCS-BIOS-related questions. If the answer might also be useful to someone else, it belongs in a public thread where it can be discovered by everyone using the search function. Thank You.

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...

The ps3 must be "hacked" to get a better reading of the leds and disregard all other lights.

...

Now I read the opening post completely:

I also use the PS3eye (was also cheap at eBay).

 

If someone read this later and want to redo the whole thing:

 

If you use IR-LEDs with enough strength (your - aap_flanker - 5mm ones should be good) it shouldn't be necessary to modify your cam.

 

I just added a simple piece of red film (used for lighting in theaters) in front of the camera to filter unwanted light and side effects.

I added some photographs with

- clip: you see grinded LED-tops to diffuse theire beams. Clip itsself is made from sandwich card-foam-card as used in Advertising or Architecture modeling. The whole clip is very light-weight. The heavyiest thing is (maybe) the 8.5 Ohms Resistor :)

- PS3eye with set red filter - just a piece of 25mm-vinyl tube with glued film

- screenshot of FtNIR while tracking

2016_07_FtNIR.thumb.PNG.fdd669dee56a3ca4a942b5e50183f201.PNG

20160722_152357.thumb.jpg.716befafe0ab3f8feee83c850e9b63df.jpg

20160722_152503.thumb.jpg.afa969aa7f0bf52aed7c8b08f34926a2.jpg


Edited by Tekkx

Manual for my version of RS485-Hardware, contact: tekkx@dresi.de

Please do not PM me with DCS-BIOS-related questions. If the answer might also be useful to someone else, it belongs in a public thread where it can be discovered by everyone using the search function. Thank You.

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Thow the question isn't directed to me:

It depends not just on length of arms ... Most important: You need a clean calibration of your clip (no matter, how it looks like).

Main thing is, LEDs mustn't cover each other at some positions. FtNIR has to "see" three LEDs at each time and position.

 

Also (somewhere in FtNIR - now don't remember where) you can determine behavior of your (virtual) position if FtNIR looses track.

My tracker looses Track everytime I nick down to look at some Instruments like CDU or AAP or the ashtray... virtual Head (at my configuration) stays where it was until tracking goes on.

 

Nah cool mate, it was directed at anyone so thanks, will look at the, mine is swigging beer! Will add rep tomorrow, iPad ISS in retard mode?!


Edited by Mr_Burns
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Thow the question isn't directed to me:

It depends not just on length of arms ... Most important: You need a clean calibration of your clip (no matter, how it looks like).

Main thing is, LEDs mustn't cover each other at some positions. FtNIR has to "see" three LEDs at each time and position.

 

Also (somewhere in FtNIR - now don't remember where) you can determine behavior of your (virtual) position if FtNIR looses track.

My tracker looses Track everytime I nick down to look at some Instruments like CDU or AAP or the ashtray... virtual Head (at my configuration) stays where it was until tracking goes on.

 

Thats right! The most important thing is to avoid LEDs overlapping, and you get that by making the clip "taller" (more separation between each other)... I'm thinking to re-make mine, because that separation is too short, and I'm getting overlapping when I look down....

By other hand I think you will never had that problem if you use a kind like hat clip


Edited by aap_flanker
wrong milti quote

Intel i5 11700F + H80 | 4x4GB 3200mhz RAM | AORUS ELITE B560M | Samsung 850 PRO SSD 256gb| KINGSTON SA400 480GB SSD | WD 500GB | Gigabyte GTX 1070 8GB | Antec 1200 PSU | Thrustmaster Warthog HOTAS and homemade panels and rudder pedals | 24" Samsung T24C550 @60Hz 2ms | Opentrack 3 led clip

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Now I read the opening post completely:

I also use the PS3eye (was also cheap at eBay).

 

If someone read this later and want to redo the whole thing:

 

If you use IR-LEDs with enough strength (your - aap_flanker - 5mm ones should be good) it shouldn't be necessary to modify your cam.

 

I just added a simple piece of red film (used for lighting in theaters) in front of the camera to filter unwanted light and side effects.

 

I haven't tried that, but I'm pretty sure it will work without hacking the camera (removing IR filter).

My problem was that the camera didn't see the light of the led when it was lateral... Then I hacked (broke the camera) and the problem is still there.... After that I figured out that I need a diffuser on each led, and that is how I discover that if you sand the led you will get a 180 degrees led beam....

In addition, my LEDs runs with low power consumption (only 30ma each vs 100ma each recommended in most of the sites), so may be you can try by using a higher resistor but smaller size (mine is 0,25watt).

 

I will post if I make any changes in the model.


Edited by aap_flanker

Intel i5 11700F + H80 | 4x4GB 3200mhz RAM | AORUS ELITE B560M | Samsung 850 PRO SSD 256gb| KINGSTON SA400 480GB SSD | WD 500GB | Gigabyte GTX 1070 8GB | Antec 1200 PSU | Thrustmaster Warthog HOTAS and homemade panels and rudder pedals | 24" Samsung T24C550 @60Hz 2ms | Opentrack 3 led clip

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...

I'm thinking to re-make mine, because that separation is too short, and I'm getting overlapping when I look down....

 

Maybe it solves some problems if you shorten or extend your upper or lower "arm". So they can't shadow the middle LED. But if they too short, your head comes in the line as you turn it left.

Let a friend take some photographs of you (sidelong, best while dogfighting) at different positions of your head/body. So you can determine the extreme nick angels and LED's positions (length of arms).. ( just an idea of this minute).

Don't forget to adapt your settings in Freetrack or FTNIR every time you made a modification.

 

I will remake mine also. But it's just one of my (felt) 1023 DCS-related projects, so it stuck at a very early testbed-status :)

The pic shows an attempt I did very quick as I gave an order to a laser cutter's studio. There was some unused place on the sheet and so I "quick-drawed" this and put the thing there.

The design is completely unscientific and has some headroom for improvement :)

 

It is cut from 3mm clear Acrylic sheet (white protective film is still on it).

It works as a light conductor. Three IR-LEDs will shine through the arms. I don't know if it'll work. One LED I put there for your imagination :)

Maybe I bring some silver coating on it for better reflection inside... (???)

 

As I see as I previewed this post: Photo is token upside down (Australian way). :D

 

If someone has a laser cutter on hand, I add a link to a SVG so you can do your own tests :)

20160722_202809.thumb.jpg.7b20b5bceb179dc3b5bfa506f12f1a87.jpg


Edited by Tekkx
edited some known typos

Manual for my version of RS485-Hardware, contact: tekkx@dresi.de

Please do not PM me with DCS-BIOS-related questions. If the answer might also be useful to someone else, it belongs in a public thread where it can be discovered by everyone using the search function. Thank You.

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Maybe it solves some problems if you shorten or extend your upper or lower "arm". So they can't shadow the middle LED. But if they too short, your head comes in the line as you turn it left.

Let a friend take some photographs of you (sidelong, best while dogfighting) at different positions of your head/body. So you can determine the extreme nick angels and LED's positions (length of arms).. ( just an idea of this minute).

Don't forget to adapt your settings in Freetrack or FTNIR every time you made a modification.

 

I will remake mine also. But it's just one of my (felt) 1023 DCS-related projects, so it stuck at a very early testbed-status :)

The pic shows an attempt I did very quick as I gave an order to a laser cutter's studio. There was some unused place on the sheet and so I "quick-drawed" this and put the thing there.

The design is completely unscientific and has some headroom for improvement :)

 

It is cut from 3mm clear Acrylic sheet (white protective film is still on it).

It works as a light conductor. Three IR-LEDs will shine through the arms. I don't know if it'll work. One LED I put there for your imagination :)

Maybe I bring some silver coating on it for better reflection inside... (???)

 

As I see as I previewed this post: Photo is token upside down (Australian way). :D

 

If someone has a laser cutter on hand, I add a link to a SVG so you can do your own tests :)

 

wow! i like your concept, would be great if it works!

btw, if you have problems with the ir beam at the tips try using sandpaper, at least the leds are made of acrylic too

Intel i5 11700F + H80 | 4x4GB 3200mhz RAM | AORUS ELITE B560M | Samsung 850 PRO SSD 256gb| KINGSTON SA400 480GB SSD | WD 500GB | Gigabyte GTX 1070 8GB | Antec 1200 PSU | Thrustmaster Warthog HOTAS and homemade panels and rudder pedals | 24" Samsung T24C550 @60Hz 2ms | Opentrack 3 led clip

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@wormeaten:

Looks very interesting. :)

This is an outstanding example for: improvised things are the most sustaining things :)

I have a lot of such steam punks here.

 

It's a big benefit for simmers (in contrast to modellers): We do not have to make our stuff for the showroom ;)

 

What kind of LEDs you are using?


Edited by Tekkx

Manual for my version of RS485-Hardware, contact: tekkx@dresi.de

Please do not PM me with DCS-BIOS-related questions. If the answer might also be useful to someone else, it belongs in a public thread where it can be discovered by everyone using the search function. Thank You.

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What kind of LEDs you are using?

 

OPTO TLN115A IR-LED Water-clear 42° 5mm 950nm 100mA 1,35V

 

I file the top of the led to increase angle. Such IR LED is used in remote controllers and its god as SFH485P for which say is the best one for clip.

 

Here is link for SFH485P

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  • 5 months later...

....

It is cut from 3mm clear Acrylic sheet (white protective film is still on it).

It works as a light conductor. Three IR-LEDs will shine through the arms. I don't know if it'll work. One LED I put there for your imagination :)

Maybe I bring some silver coating on it for better reflection inside... (???)

 

As I see as I previewed this post: Photo is token upside down (Australian way). :D

 

If someone has a laser cutter on hand, I add a link to a SVG so you can do your own tests :)

https://forums.eagle.ru/attachment.php?attachmentid=144782&d=1469212750

 

Forget this thing!!!

I did a test last week (the case was low priority): NO function.

 

So I reworked the complete clip, using some IR-LEDs SFH 4209. They have a half angle of 25 degs. Means: No grinding :)

 

Three LEDs in series with a 16 Ohms Resistor at 5V.

Works very well :)

 

White shine of LEDs is just the reflection of my "flash"light :)

IMG_20170106_205925.thumb.jpg.bb962b842e0f9958fbad5b4ef701e707.jpg

Manual for my version of RS485-Hardware, contact: tekkx@dresi.de

Please do not PM me with DCS-BIOS-related questions. If the answer might also be useful to someone else, it belongs in a public thread where it can be discovered by everyone using the search function. Thank You.

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