3D Printed Switch Headers for VR

Hi,

I play DCS in VR so like having shaped buttons I can easily find. I've built the launch bar, hook and canopy switch headers for F-18 to wrap around my rear switches. I used the existing screws to secure it down. Nothing is glued so they can be easily removed. I've added a small brass rod to pin the upper sections together but anything could be used, it would even be okay without it.

STL files attached.

cheers

John

SwitchWrapper.zip

Wow, I like that! Can you share your file? I'd like to print this out on my 3D printer. :-)

looking good!!

Thanks Guys. javelina can you PM me your email address so I can email them to you?

Thanks Guys. javelina can you PM me your email address so I can email them to you?

info inbound. thanks M8! :thumbup:

Very cool! I'm always amazed at the creativity around here.

Looking at your first couple of pictures though, this is what I immediately thought of :D

My friend had one many years ago and man it was just the greatest thing ever :joystick:

This was my very first pit from my childhood in the 60's! I think I was 7 yrs old, many many hours of fun was had.

Great minds .... etc.

I also came to the conclusion that a bit of 3D printing can improve the VR experience.

(The yellow lever is for setting the Harrier's nozzle angle. It has a detent at the 82° hover position).

How much. To have you print a set out and ship to 88310

BlacleyCole:

If you are referring to my post above and not to Blue73.

Sorry, this is just a hobby for me and I expect the postage from Australia would make it uneconomic for you.

However, you are welcome to the STL files if you wish to get them printed yourself.

Here are the files for the gear handle

Gear lever.zip

The files for the Harrier nozzle lever are available in another thread...

https://forums.eagle.ru/showthread.php?t=217091

(Apologies to Blue73. I did not intend to hijack your thread)

Great minds .... etc.

I also came to the conclusion that a bit of 3D printing can improve the VR experience.

[ATTACH]191585[/ATTACH]

(The yellow lever is for setting the Harrier's nozzle angle. It has a detent at the 82° hover position).

Very nice Terry, it sure makes a difference also I'm from Aus as well! :)

For anyone who does not like the previous version as it looks like a mixture control lever operating their landing gear, here is one with a more standard looking wheel on it.

STL files here:

Gear Lever - Wheel.zip

Blue73,

I really like your idea!

Someone should make an entire button box, with individual overlays, like this, that the user could configure as they want.

I was referring to blue3

Blue73,

I really like your idea!

Someone should make an entire button box, with individual overlays, like this, that the user could configure as they want.

Thanks Golbin, funny your’re saying that. I’m building that very thing right now.

I don't know anything about 3D printing realities, but can I ask why did you go with the brass tube peg idea, and not make the two halves of the switch tops have interlocking parts? I.E. one side have a peg instead of a hole, and that fills the hole in the other piece?

Hi,

The main purpose was to strengthen the dimension in-line with the layers. But since designing this I've discovered the wonders of acetone with ABS. If I had to do it again I certainly would key the sides so they mesh together then acetone and sand the parts. My newest switch headers for the Hornet are a single block of plastic with pins driven through the toggle to secure it in place. Though I certainly wouldn't be drilling any holes through my Warthog switches. Also the black guides are now much smaller, almost a 1/5th the size.

I don't know anything about 3D printing realities, but can I ask why did you go with the brass tube peg idea, and not make the two halves of the switch tops have interlocking parts? I.E. one side have a peg instead of a hole, and that fills the hole in the other piece?

I don't know anything about 3D printing realities, but can I ask why did you go with the brass tube peg idea, and not make the two halves of the switch tops have interlocking parts? I.E. one side have a peg instead of a hole, and that fills the hole in the other piece?

The one problem with this is the you want a flat surface to print from, so having a peg section can be problematic.

In 3D printing you ideally want a flat surface on the bed, well you really have to have one and then remember that anything with a overhang of say more than 40 degrees has to be supported in some way. You can not print something just hanging in the air if that makes sense. (There are ways around this, but not simple and can affect the print quality)

You can also add inserts.

I've used that technique with hex nuts and a soldering iron. The plastic melts around it locking it in place.

You can also add inserts.

Love the work Guys!!! Ive been a printing fool lately.

Anything new? :D

Great job.

Nice to see more and more 3D projects.

Did any one make it for the X-56 ?

Hmm, I just start working on the a same problem like you this evening in fusion360. Nice to see, someone else have a solution! Anyway, what do you use for fixing the two parts? That is not a screw. Can you link it, please?

My project is this for landing gear:

My soluton for the caps. Also need some anti-rotate solution and cleaning :)

Hi,

I did use a single pin (thin brass rod) to keep the two halves together, but to truly keep them together and to prevent rotation I had to print the base plate with the half circle guides. In the end the fit between them was tight enough that I didn't even need the pin. When I built my next switch header I downsized the guides, they worked just as well. You can see below.

cheers

John

My soluton for the caps. Also need some anti-rotate solution and cleaning :)