javelina1 Posted December 13, 2017 Share Posted December 13, 2017 I'm in the same boat as you NeilWillis. But Dburne mentioned that he had to buy a more recent WH and felt the sticktion. So it could be a manufacturing moved to a different location or some QA problem. same here with NeilWillis. I've had my WH since 2014, and flying with a 120mm extension. Never had the sticktion. Must be a later lot, manufacturing/QA thingy? MSI MAG Z790 Carbon, i9-13900k, NH-D15 cooler, 64 GB CL40 6000mhz RAM, MSI RTX4090, Yamaha 5.1 A/V Receiver, 4x 2TB Samsung 980 Pro NVMe, 1x 2TB Samsung 870 EVO SSD, Win 11 Pro, TM Warthog, Virpil WarBRD, MFG Crosswinds, 43" Samsung 4K TV, 21.5 Acer VT touchscreen, TrackIR, Varjo Aero, Wheel Stand Pro Super Warthog, Phanteks Enthoo Pro2 Full Tower Case, Seasonic GX-1200 ATX3 PSU, PointCTRL, Buttkicker 2, K-51 Helicopter Collective Control Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dburne Posted December 13, 2017 Share Posted December 13, 2017 I'm in the same boat as you NeilWillis. But Dburne mentioned that he had to buy a more recent WH and felt the sticktion. So it could be a manufacturing moved to a different location or some QA problem. Yep I have two Warthog gimbals here, my original purchased in 2008 still smooth as can be, the second one I bought earlier this year is horrible. Luckily I really only needed the grip, so put it on my original Warthog. 1 Don B EVGA Z390 Dark MB | i9 9900k CPU @ 5.1 GHz | Gigabyte 4090 OC | 64 GB Corsair Vengeance 3200 MHz CL16 | Corsair H150i Pro Cooler |Virpil CM3 Stick w/ Alpha Prime Grip 200mm ext| Virpil CM3 Throttle | VPC Rotor TCS Base w/ Alpha-L Grip| Point Control V2|Varjo Aero| Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sc_neo Posted January 12, 2018 Share Posted January 12, 2018 To give credit where credit is due: i disassembled my TM TWCS throttle yesterday and cleaned it from all grease (gave it a good rub with cleaning alcohol just to be sure). I then applied the often mentioned Nyogel 767a and its true....stiction, which my TWCS fairly strongly had due to its rail design, is completely gone. It just moves completely fluidly, minuscule adjustments are a joy, not a chore anymore. Wether the heavier feel and slower movement (you can't raise and slower throttle inputs quite as fast as before due to its dampening nature, that was rather the point huh :) ) is considered a pro or con, is for everyone to decide themselves. Might be a little bit slow for helicopter flying, perfect for jets. On the other hand, it provides for the tiniest adjustments when hovering in a helo and janking your throttle/collective is seldom a good idea anyways. We'll see how this stuff holds up over time. I'll do the same with my fairly new Warthog stick. I ordered from http://www.micro-tools.de/OEle-Fette/Fett-stark-daempfend.html which has it on offer in Germany. Was about 25 euro including shipping for two oz or 56gr. Anyway, this is how TM should ship their products in the first place! I reckon it would be quite cheaper for them to order that stuff on industry scales. Besides, it takes about 1-2 grams for said throttle, probably a good deal more for the Warthog stick. Still, that would not increase the price in any way worth mentioning, not considering that the input unit you buy only becomes really usable after applying it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Buckeye Posted January 12, 2018 Share Posted January 12, 2018 To give credit where credit is due: i disassembled my TM TWCS throttle yesterday and cleaned it from all grease (gave it a good rub with cleaning alcohol just to be sure). I then applied the often mentioned Nyogel 767a and its true....stiction, which my TWCS fairly strongly had due to its rail design, is completely gone. It just moves completely fluidly, minuscule adjustments are a joy, not a chore anymore. Wether the heavier feel and slower movement (you can't raise and slower throttle inputs quite as fast as before due to its dampening nature, that was rather the point huh :) ) is considered a pro or con, is for everyone to decide themselves. Might be a little bit slow for helicopter flying, perfect for jets. On the other hand, it provides for the tiniest adjustments when hovering in a helo and janking your throttle/collective is seldom a good idea anyways. We'll see how this stuff holds up over time. I'll do the same with my fairly new Warthog stick. I ordered from http://www.micro-tools.de/OEle-Fette/Fett-stark-daempfend.html which has it on offer in Germany. Was about 25 euro including shipping for two oz or 56gr. Anyway, this is how TM should ship their products in the first place! I reckon it would be quite cheaper for them to order that stuff on industry scales. Besides, it takes about 1-2 grams for said throttle, probably a good deal more for the Warthog stick. Still, that would not increase the price in any way worth mentioning, not considering that the input unit you buy only becomes really usable after applying it. Nyogel really does make the gimbal feel much better. It is really the only way someone should fly with the Hog, the improvement is significant. Still, the gimbal design is flawed at it's core and as a result is still relatively mediocre compared to other, more well designed options. VR Cockpit (link): Custom Throttletek F/A-18C Throttle w/ Hall Sensors + Otto switches | Slaw Device RX Viper Pedals w/ Damper | VPC T-50 Base + 15cm Black Sahaj Extension + TM Hornet or Warthog Grip | Super Warthog Wheel Stand Pro | Steelcase Leap V2 + JetSeat SE VR Rig: Pimax 5K+ | ASUS ROG Strix 1080Ti | Intel i7-9700K | Gigabyte Z390 Aorus Master | Corsair H115i RGB Platinum | 32GB Corsair Vengeance Pro RGB 3200 | Dell U3415W Curved 3440x1440 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Failed Creation Posted January 13, 2018 Share Posted January 13, 2018 I Nyogeled my 'Hog (and removed mould lines from *inside* the peg holes) and it's a completely different beast! Smooth adjustments are easy now, before it would jerk about with all but the largest of strong and very deliberate direction changes. And I like the different feel the Nyogel gives. I also plan to Nyogel my TWCS which became impossible to make fine adjustments after only a week of moderate use. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sc_neo Posted January 13, 2018 Share Posted January 13, 2018 How much grams of Nyogel did you use for the Warthog stick? I kinda don't want to waste too much....but it should get the job done of course. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Failed Creation Posted January 13, 2018 Share Posted January 13, 2018 I put on about as much as there was original TM grease (that red stuff) which was fine, except there was a touch to much on the gimbal where it makes contact with the o-ring and made a sticky squelching noise when I pushed it so far as to make contact. I wiped a very small amount off the lip which make the contact and it stopped sounding like a cinema floor. Couldn't give you an exact amount as I bought a 100gm tube, but I did put a thin coat on every surface that made contact. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ala12Rv-Tundra Posted January 13, 2018 Share Posted January 13, 2018 Pfff much respect for those of you brave enough to open the beast. i5 8400 | 32 Gb RAM | RTX 2080Ti | Virpil Mongoose T-50 base w/ Warthog & Hornet sticks | Warthog throttle | Cougar throttle USB | DIY Collective | Virpil desk mount | VKB T-Rudder Mk IV | Oculus Rift S | Buddy-Fox A-10 UFC | 3x TM MFDs | 2x bass shakers pedal plate| SIMple SIMpit chair | WinWing TakeOff panel | PointCTRL v2 | Andre JetSeat | Winwing Hornet UFC | Winwing Viper ICP FC3 - Warthog - F-5E - Harrier - NTTR - Hornet - Tomcat - Huey - Viper - C-101 - PG - Hip - SuperCarrier - Syria - Warthog II - Hind - South Atlantic - Sinai - Strike Eagle Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
otavio Posted January 18, 2018 Share Posted January 18, 2018 I put on about as much as there was original TM grease (that red stuff) which was fine, except there was a touch to much on the gimbal where it makes contact with the o-ring and made a sticky squelching noise when I pushed it so far as to make contact. I wiped a very small amount off the lip which make the contact and it stopped sounding like a cinema floor. Couldn't give you an exact amount as I bought a 100gm tube, but I did put a thin coat on every surface that made contact. Did you also use nyogel on the springs? I kinda don't want to waste too much when i regrease my stick because i only bought a 10g tube. Ryzen 5 3600x @ GTX 1070 on Samsung Odyssey+ :joystick: Thrustmaster Hotas Warthog, Saitek Pro Flight Combat Rudder Pedals, TrackIR 4 Pro Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Failed Creation Posted January 20, 2018 Share Posted January 20, 2018 Did you also use nyogel on the springs? I kinda don't want to waste too much when i regrease my stick because i only bought a 10g tube. Yes, but you can get away with a fairly small amount. I only put a little on to begin with, and it was too much. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ApoNOOB Posted May 31, 2018 Share Posted May 31, 2018 Anyone know where to get Nyogel 767a in Europe? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
[DBS]TH0R Posted June 1, 2018 Share Posted June 1, 2018 Anyone know where to get Nyogel 767a in Europe? I got my 100g tube from this Shop: https://shop.newgatesimms.com/product/nyogel-767a/ Opted for normal shipping than the faster more expensive one - took about 4 weeks to arrive. Per gram, this is a very good price when compared to the 10g tubes. P8Z68 | 2500k @ 4.5 | GTX 1080Ti | 2x8 GB @ 1600 | TM Hog (extended 7cm) & MFG Crosswind (S/N 007) | TIR v5 WWII bomber formations | DCS P-51D: [TEST] TO distance / gross weight / temperature Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
davebert Posted November 26, 2018 Share Posted November 26, 2018 (edited) Just so I understand this correctly, after cleaning and lubing with Nyogel 767A, does the joystick come back to center by itself fairly quick or normal or is it super slow and you have to manually move it to center?? I watched this video and it looks like the Nyogel slows this test down by a lot. How does that compare to the Warthog gimbal and tolerances? Thanks video: https:// Edited November 26, 2018 by davebert youtube links doesn't work after embed Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
joca133 Posted November 27, 2018 Share Posted November 27, 2018 Just so I understand this correctly, after cleaning and lubing with Nyogel 767A, does the joystick come back to center by itself fairly quick or normal or is it super slow and you have to manually move it to center?? I watched this video and it looks like the Nyogel slows this test down by a lot. How does that compare to the Warthog gimbal and tolerances? Thanks video: https:// Mine returns normally, feels like I dipped in honey and I use an extension. As to how hard it is, following the directions, having a suitable workspace, and taking it slowly it is easy. I am not very good at this type of work. I did greased the springs, polished the gimbal spheres, and also nyogeled (good to know this is a thing) my TWCS throttle and T16000 stick. The biggest change was on the TWCS, that stock slider sucks big time and I have returned 2 units in 2 years. After nyogel its a whole different feel, definitely magic stuff :joystick:. Don’t be scared, go for it and enjoy. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tileiranco Posted November 27, 2018 Share Posted November 27, 2018 love to fly with the stick Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sc_neo Posted November 29, 2018 Share Posted November 29, 2018 (edited) @joca133 I ''nyogeled (good to know this is a thing) my TWCS throttle'' as well like 6 months ago and yeah...that thing was not usable before, and now its a dream. It actually feels even better now than it did a couple of weeks after applying the stuff. Still need to do it on my t.16000m and Warthog stick. Nyogel really is a saviour. Edited August 23, 2019 by sc_neo Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cibit Posted January 16, 2019 Share Posted January 16, 2019 (edited) I borked my stick being too lazy to go downstairs to get my spectacles :doh: I need to know how to disassemble the sensor housing in the top gimble so I can attempt to reattatch 2 wires that snapped off while putting it together with the inner gimble cutout (for the wires) on the wrong side, Any suggestions gratefully received and feel free to berate me for being a class A tool :helpsmilie: Edited January 16, 2019 by Cibit i5 8600k@5.2Ghz, Asus Prime A Z370, 32Gb DDR4 3000, GTX1080 SC, Oculus Rift CV1, Modded TM Warthog Modded X52 Collective, Jetseat, W10 Pro 64 [sIGPIC][/sIGPIC] Adding JTAC Guide //My Vid's//229th AHB Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PainTrain Posted August 21, 2019 Share Posted August 21, 2019 I definitely need to do this. I can push my Warthog all the way forward and if I ease off it gently enough it will stick and not move back at all. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bloody Posted August 22, 2019 Share Posted August 22, 2019 Hello! I've just finished my Warthog "upgrade" and I must say this is a MUST!!! Just sand the parting line flashes, use good grease (I used automotive PTFE grese) and it is like night and day. Now I'm 100% satisfied, but personally I think that Thrustmaster should improve the stick to be like this from the beginning. Remember to view some YT before :) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PainTrain Posted March 19, 2020 Share Posted March 19, 2020 It Works Hello, PainTrain reporting in on the Nyogel 767A regreasing of the Warthog. It really works, I had a major sticktion problem where all fine movements were done with jerking motions before. After carefully disassembly and cleaning my 2nd hand warthog is better than new. Several notes for those attempting this. 1. When you get down to the ball joint: Push the ribbon cable and black ground wire up through the bottom of the base to give yourself enough slack to remove the connector cup. 2. It really does take a concerning amount of force to remove the pins the roll axis is on, just be careful of the wires and push that sucker out. 3. sand down any flash from the molding process. I sanded the plastic pins for the roll axis and the ball part of the joint with a squadron tri-grit sanding stick from amazon https://www.amazon.com/Squadron-Products-Grit-Sanding-Stick/dp/B000CDM4PY I used all 3 grits to make sure of a smooth finish. 4. make note of the orientation of the inner half ball for the roll axis. There is a cutout for the wires to pass through, do not twist them up. That's it just clean it well and lube it up and you will be rewarded with a silky smooth flight stick. -PT Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
72westy Posted April 28, 2020 Share Posted April 28, 2020 After three months of running my Warthog without incident I finally encountered lubrication issues from all the use this thing has received. It started to stick on me all the time even to the point where I pulled the stick all the way back and it just stayed there.:shocking: So after going through all the threads about disassembly and grease types I finally went out and bought some plastic friendly grease and after an hour of farting around I finally got it back together and... it was still awful. Even with loads of grease. I tried another grease and same thing. The stickshin was getting even more pronounced. :angry: I resigned myself to ordering some of that Molycote stuff and wait a week for it but who can go a week without flying. :sad_2: So I tried one more time and this time I used something I had left over from my RC tank days...CERAMIC Grease. This is "apparently" specially formulated for plastic to cut sticking by 50% so I gave it a try. I can't say WOW loud enough:clap_2:. It is so smooth I almost had an accident in my pants. Would you like to know what it is??? Tamiaya Ceramic Grease. Yes, the same people who make plastic model kits. All hobby stores carry Tamiya products so it will be really easy to find. I just wanted to pass this alone in hopes that others won't have to go through the same crap as I did to get my stick back to normal. BTW, you don't need to use gobs of it either. Just a nice film over the ball joints, o-ring and those four posts. Another great grease... Super Lube https://www.super-lube.com/ System 1: Windows 10 Pro 22H2 Build 19045.4123 - Core i7 3770K/Gigabyte GA-Z68XP-UD3 (BIOS F-10)/32GB G-Skill Trident X DDR3 CL7-8-8-24/Asus RTX 2070 OC 8GB - drivers 551.61/LG Blue Ray DL Burner/1TB Crucial MX 500 SSD/(x2)1TBMushkinRAWSSDs/2TB PNY CS900 SSD/Corsair RM750w PSU/Rosewill Mid Challenger Tower/34" LG LED Ultrawide 2560x1080p/Saitek X56 HOTAS/TrackIR 5 Pro/Thermaltake Tt esports Commander Gear Combo/Oculus Quest 2/TM 2xMFD Cougar/InateckPCIeUSB3.2KU5211-R System 2: Windows 11 Home 23H2 22631.3447 - MSI Codex Series R2 B14NUC7-095US - i7 14700F/MSI Pro B760 VC Wifi/32GB DDR5 5600mhz RAM/RTX 4060/2TB nVME SSD/4TB 2.5in SSD/650w Gold PSU Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nealius Posted March 5 Share Posted March 5 Is Tamiya Cera-grease HG the same as this "ceramic grease?" I can't find anything specifically called "ceramic grease." Also, are there any reference pics of how the gasket is supposed to be positioned? Mine fell out of place and I can't find any pictures or videos clearly showing where the gasket is supposed to be. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Art-J Posted March 5 Share Posted March 5 1 hour ago, Nealius said: Also, are there any reference pics of how the gasket is supposed to be positioned? Mine fell out of place and I can't find any pictures or videos clearly showing where the gasket is supposed to be. It's meant to be glued to internal flange of this pressure plate thingy sliding up and down on four pegs. Take a look here: As a side note, from my own experience, superglue might not be the best one to use for reinstalling the gasket back in place. Mine stayed there for a few year afterwards but fell apart to pieces eventually. Either this particular type of rubber didn't like cyanoacrylates, or it couldn't flex enough after hefty superglue application around all the circumference, or maybe it just deteriorated because of age. In either case, I use joystick extension so getting rid of the gasket completely turned out to be better solution actually. 1 i7 9700K @ stock speed, single GTX1070, 32 gigs of RAM, TH Warthog, MFG Crosswind, Win10. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nealius Posted March 5 Share Posted March 5 2 hours ago, Art-J said: In either case, I use joystick extension so getting rid of the gasket completely turned out to be better solution actually. I'm on an extension as well but didn't think about that. No potential issues from removing the gasket entirely? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MAXsenna Posted March 5 Share Posted March 5 I'm on an extension as well but didn't think about that. No potential issues from removing the gasket entirely?When I got my extension and spring update. The gasket had disintegrated, so I used it before I got some Teflon replacements from Buddyfox. Don't think there's a difference really. Sent from my SM-A536B using Tapatalk 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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