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Auto Air Scoop Not Effective


SPS48A

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How effective should the automatic radiator scoop doors be. I am finding not very. Seems to me it should be able to regulate temp in a normal climb or even for high power operation. I find that to keep the oil from overheating I must manually adjust the door. Is this normal? If so, what good is automatic operation?

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I have found the same.

Before startup I flip both to manual and give each switch one press. I monitor all the time and go auto only if the oil temps look too low and usually back to manual.

 

Maybe on an eight hour mission with long cruises the auto function works but it doesn't seem to for our frags.

I watched a vid from Kermit Weeks, he never uses manual, maybe we're not flying a plane with a great engine model.

Don't pay attention to me though, I'm new at this P-51.

 

Slick


Edited by slickdevel
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Auto does a terrible job of keeping the engine cool. It seems in auto mode, it will never fully open.

 

Before startup, just knock the coolant door down to manual, and leave oil in auto so it warms up while on the ground. Once the oil passes 40C, flip the coolant door to auto. After takeoff, if you are going to do any fast and/or aggressive flying or climbing, fully open the oil door manually, but you can keep the coolant in auto.

With this, you can climb at ~175MPH IAS at 3000RPM and 55inches, though that is about the limit of it.

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Auto is for maximum performance not minimum temps.

Auto exactly is doing what should do.

At cruise setting it will hold temps in green in high power settings it will hold high temps.

I can climb 61' 3000rpm from SL to 40k with no problem(no engine damage etc)(you can climb 67' with radiators flaps at auto but be prepared for fast climb) speed should be around 220mph

For t/o i open coolant flaps full(coolant doors dont keep up with sudden power increases during t/o roll)

But dont expect oil temps in green range while climbing with low airspeed and double the power as for cruise settings


Edited by grafspee

System specs: I7 14700KF, Gigabyte Z690 Aorus Elite, 64GB DDR4 3600MHz, Gigabyte RTX 4090,Win 11, 48" OLED LG TV + 42" LG LED monitor

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I have found the same.

Before startup I flip both to manual and give each switch one press. I monitor all the time and go auto only if the oil temps look too low and usually back to manual.

 

Maybe on an eight hour mission with long cruises the auto function works but it doesn't seem to for our frags.

I watched a vid from Kermit Weeks, he never uses manual, maybe we're not flying a plane with a great engine model.

Don't pay attention to me though, I'm new at this P-51.

 

Slick

 

Dont compare this to planes flown during ww2, now p-51 most likely are tweaked for longest engine life.

And take note that Kermit t/o at 55" and as soon he is airbron he drops to 46" 2700 then he drops to 2400rpm with about 30" boost.

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just check how auto works in other dcs warbirds. Someone painted green lines on temp gages and everyone start freaking out as soon needles leave this green area

What is redline for coolant in p51 121C? if you are below that you are fine.

what is max oil temp ?? 90C and 95C for wep if you are below you are fine.


Edited by grafspee

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as soon as i in the air i fully open both radiators. Auto may work, but idlike to keep my temp in the green. only time i have to close them a little bit when im faster than 300, or high up. otherwise i let them 100% open.

 

as soon in the air ?? so you are not opening radiators before t/o ?? that is bad

obsolutely not needed you are slowing plane way down.

If you stay below 90c oil and 121c coolant there is no way to harm engine.

Any way it is hared to be at thid high temps becouse you will have to use high power setting which are limited by time uf use.

Any way in combat situation i have very little time to baby sit my temps :P


Edited by grafspee

System specs: I7 14700KF, Gigabyte Z690 Aorus Elite, 64GB DDR4 3600MHz, Gigabyte RTX 4090,Win 11, 48" OLED LG TV + 42" LG LED monitor

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as soon in the air ?? so you are not opening radiators before t/o ?? that is bad

obsolutely not needed you are slowing plane way down.

If you stay below 90c oil and 121c coolant there is no way to harm engine.

Any way it is hared to be at thid high temps becouse you will have to use high power setting which are limited by time uf use.

Any way in combat situation i have very little time to baby sit my temps :P

 

depends on how long im at the ground before take off. if water temp is already near the green zone i open it for takeoff, but when i spawn near the rwy and oiltemp is ready i start without open water radiator. while takeoff it climbs and bevor it leaves the greenzone i open it. i figured out if i leave them almost completely open i dont have to manage temps at all. only when im fast or climb into cool air i need to close them a little bit so they dont drop to much. for me Autocooling only works in high altitude or power setting 2400rpm 35Hg on very low altitude everything above temps go crazy in auto mode.

 

 

all the problems i had in the beginning with broken engine and so on was because auto mode didn't do the job. Since i manage them myself i didnt had a broken engine in 20h of flight. no matter what power setting i use.

 

And yes i know this is not by the book, or will slow me down, but in the end this is what works for me and my buddys


Edited by whaaw

SFMBE



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depends on how long im at the ground before take off. if water temp is already near the green zone i open it for takeoff, but when i spawn near the rwy and oiltemp is ready i start without open water radiator. while takeoff it climbs and bevor it leaves the greenzone i open it. i figured out if i leave them almost completely open i dont have to manage temps at all. only when im fast or climb into cool air i need to close them a little bit so they dont drop to much. for me Autocooling only works in high altitude or power setting 2400rpm 35Hg on very low altitude everything above temps go crazy in auto mode.

 

 

all the problems i had in the beginning with broken engine and so on was because auto mode didn't do the job. Since i manage them myself i didnt had a broken engine in 20h of flight. no matter what power setting i use.

 

What do you mean by "temps go crazy" ?? oil goes above 90 and coolant above 121 ? maby you are closing them not setting auto

I fly on auto all the time i have no problem with temps.


Edited by grafspee

System specs: I7 14700KF, Gigabyte Z690 Aorus Elite, 64GB DDR4 3600MHz, Gigabyte RTX 4090,Win 11, 48" OLED LG TV + 42" LG LED monitor

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What do you mean by "temps go crazy" ?? oil goes above 90 and coolant above 121 ? maby you are closing them not setting auto

I fly on auto all the time i have no problem with temps.

 

oil is not much of problem but when i fly 500feet 250knots 2700RPM 46Hg auto mode water temp goes until the end of the gauge. on NTTR and Gulf at least. on Caucasus its a bit less, but still beyond the redline. when open manually no problem.

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oil is not much of problem but when i fly 500feet 250knots 2700RPM 46Hg auto mode water temp goes until the end of the gauge. on NTTR and Gulf at least. on Caucasus its a bit less, but still beyond the redline. when open manually no problem.

 

Are you sure that you are setting auto position not closing radiator completely ??

Switches goes up for auto

NTTR and Gulf has higher default air temps.

I tested p-51 some time ago in very hot, i set 40c temp it still managed temps but they were much higher than in colder weather.

I will test it again maby something changed.


Edited by grafspee

System specs: I7 14700KF, Gigabyte Z690 Aorus Elite, 64GB DDR4 3600MHz, Gigabyte RTX 4090,Win 11, 48" OLED LG TV + 42" LG LED monitor

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Are you sure that you are setting auto position not closing radiator completely ??

 

im sure. also with manual full open cooling you can fly 300knot 500feet 2900rpm 55hg forever try this in automode, engines explode after 1min max XD

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I read a document, P-51 repair manual maybe, from WW2 indicating complete engine rebuild every 700 hours, that seems reasonable. Heads removed more often for valve work probably as well as other work as needed. Another(several) documents seemed to state that engine types were certified as passing a 7 1/2 hour War Emergency Requirement test which I take it was run at ""war emergency".

 

We had a P-51 in the area last weekend, I should have gone to have a chat.

 

Dont compare this to planes flown during ww2, now p-51 most likely are tweaked for longest engine life.

And take note that Kermit t/o at 55" and as soon he is airbron he drops to 46" 2700 then he drops to 2400rpm with about 30" boost.

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I read a document, P-51 repair manual maybe, from WW2 indicating complete engine rebuild every 700 hours, that seems reasonable. Heads removed more often for valve work probably as well as other work as needed. Another(several) documents seemed to state that engine types were certified as passing a 7 1/2 hour War Emergency Requirement test which I take it was run at ""war emergency".

 

We had a P-51 in the area last weekend, I should have gone to have a chat.

 

I talk about it, for quite time, that p-51's engine in dcs is way too fregile, often it get wacked after single use of wep

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oil is not much of problem but when i fly 500feet 250knots 2700RPM 46Hg auto mode water temp goes until the end of the gauge. on NTTR and Gulf at least. on Caucasus its a bit less, but still beyond the redline. when open manually no problem.

 

i just tested p-51 in persian gulf set temp 41.3 celcius(this is max temp what you can set, btw this is crazy hot to have 41.3 air temp).

50' is max t/o power if you want to be below 121 on coolant.

I took off as alwayes with coolant wide open/oil auto

In my case auto switch for oil and coolant, opened both doors wide open.

i was able to fly 61' 3000 rpm 200ft above sea level, i had to switch for filter in operation becouse carb inlet temp was above redline.

My oil temp and coolant was within limits and when i droped power to 46' 2700 rpm my coolant went in to green zone my oil temp droped from 90 to 85

I tried to open manually oil and coolant but Auto mode alredy had them open fully.

When i droped to 36' 2400rpm coolant doors were almost closed completely but oil doors remained wide open. All of this in AUTO mode.

i assume that your setup is messign something like in you cannopy open/close situation or you are too slow so radiators cant keep up, not becouse auto mode is bad.

In this hot conditions like this, ater t/o you havet to gain speed as fast as possible.


Edited by grafspee

System specs: I7 14700KF, Gigabyte Z690 Aorus Elite, 64GB DDR4 3600MHz, Gigabyte RTX 4090,Win 11, 48" OLED LG TV + 42" LG LED monitor

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i had to switch for filter in operation becouse carb inlet temp was above redline.

.

 

Did you mistyped “from” as “for”?

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As far as I know the auto radiators are working at the moment. They did not work in the past but they are working now. The only thing you need to do is Open water radiator while you are on the ground and during takeoff. Set water to auto once you are in the air.

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nop, with ram air engaged my carb inlet temp was too high
Even with a high ambient temperature, drawing from the outside would certainly not be as hot as drawing air from the engine compartment.

Hardware: T-16000M Pack, Saitek 3 Throttle Quadrant, Homemade 32-function Leo Bodnar Button Box, MFG Crosswind Pedals Oculus Rift S

System Specs: MSI MPG X570 GAMING PLUS, GTX 1070 SC2, AMD RX3700, 32GB DDR4-3200, Samsung 860 EVO, Samsung 970 EVO 250GB

Modules: Ka-50, Mi-8MTV2, FC3, F/A-18C, F-14B, F-5E, P-51D, Spitfire Mk LF Mk. IXc, Bf-109K-4, Fw-190A-8

Maps: Normandy, Nevada

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Even with a high ambient temperature, drawing from the outside would certainly not be as hot as drawing air from the engine compartment.

In p-51 filter in operation draws air from side not from engine compartment, when you engage heat lever than will draw from engine compartmen i gues.

When ramair is on and you have quite big speed,airram will heat up inlet air and in this hot condition it may exeed max allowed temp for carb inlet air.

P-51AIS.gif


Edited by grafspee

System specs: I7 14700KF, Gigabyte Z690 Aorus Elite, 64GB DDR4 3600MHz, Gigabyte RTX 4090,Win 11, 48" OLED LG TV + 42" LG LED monitor

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Yup, that is correct. It's been a long few days with little sleep.

Hardware: T-16000M Pack, Saitek 3 Throttle Quadrant, Homemade 32-function Leo Bodnar Button Box, MFG Crosswind Pedals Oculus Rift S

System Specs: MSI MPG X570 GAMING PLUS, GTX 1070 SC2, AMD RX3700, 32GB DDR4-3200, Samsung 860 EVO, Samsung 970 EVO 250GB

Modules: Ka-50, Mi-8MTV2, FC3, F/A-18C, F-14B, F-5E, P-51D, Spitfire Mk LF Mk. IXc, Bf-109K-4, Fw-190A-8

Maps: Normandy, Nevada

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