MMjoy

You need one TLE5010/11 for each axis. This OSHpark PCB is somewhat outdated as 4 resistor is no more needed, but OK to use.

 

TLE50x is a GMR (giant manetoresistance) sensor, that for joystick purposes can be more precise and easy to install than HALL sensor. GMR is used in automotive industry.

 

About the gimbal of Tm FCS Mk.II, is basically the same design use in CH Gimbals, R/C controllers, early Tm, early VKB's...

 

In this kind of gimbal the pot axis is part of the mechanism, if you remove the pot the gimbal fall apart, at least in CH gimbal.

 

So you need keep the pot axis, or replace the with a metal pin with same diameter and D recess if used (is used in CH gimbal).

 

Use this axis as support for magnet and place the sensor in front. Sample in CH gimbal, with "Bic HALL" - the pot axis have a small Bic pen section placed over - need use late to reduce axis diameter for fit - for support two magnets, the SS495A1 HALL sensor support is placed in front with the sensor between the two magnets.

 

image hosting over 10mb

 

If you will use TLE501x fit ring magnets - diametrically magnetized - in the axis tip.

 

If not difficult try install ball bearings to reduce axis play - contactless sensors register very small movements, even unwanted ones.

Ah on looks like my magnets are to far way. They are also bigger then the ones On the bic shaft. I ll adjust thanks. Well the gimballs look the same. There might be slight differences but i am going back to the drawing board. Thanks again!

Ok so I got a pcb that coincides with Debolestis's shift register boards that can be bought on OshPark. He generously helped with the creation for my setup. https://oshpark.com/shared_projects/Jx2I95Xq outstanding work. It has the 5pin setup to the promicro and 4 axis.

I have it mounted on the female pin headers. And solder the male pin headers on the Promicro. So the board is removable.

I have 2 shift reg in the right throttle and 3 in the base I currently have access to 40 buttons. with this config.

I have to say Thanks to mega_mozg_13, Sokol1, Debolestis for the help on hardware and having the MMJoy2 software to use.

Nice work, what throttle is that? More photos please.

ah ya sorry I had bought a broken X55n with a broken USB controller on Ebay,I had started a thread was going to upload it to there but here is fine. I have pics of how I build my right throttle handle with those little hat switches. But I will post another. But I needed dual throttle and at the time this was the only viable solution for cheap.

Ok to Explain what I did to the right throttle. I took it slightly apart and drill out the buttons on the front part built its own plate to mount the 4way hats.

I solder wires and used a piece of aluminum and Nylon stand offs to hold It down. Then I placed 2 shift registers PCB. I had to trim some supports out to get it to fit then I lay a piece of vinyl tape over the switches to protect the PCB.

I reused the plugs on the PCB's and placed my own DuPont connectors on the end. I had to use OHM meter to plot out the pins in the connector for every switch. And I took out the 2 Pots and added 2 more toggles, (on)off(on).

I reused a lot of the wiring from the gameport cord that went to a F15 flight stick. It was the same 26 or 28 gauge already in the throttle. I stripped it down with a razor blade. I couldn't find any wire smaller then 24ga at the store and that was getting to big to run through the bottom hole of the right throttle.

Nice work!

What 4way switches you used?

There were a lot of complaints on build quality of x55. Throttle could actually be really nice. If only Saitek used shift registers in throttle grips, there would have been a lot less wires from grips to base and lot less problems.

I also use old gameport cables. Wire inside is very strong and very thin.

Nice work!

 

What 4way switches you used?

 

There were a lot of complaints on build quality of x55. Throttle could actually be really nice. If only Saitek used shift registers in throttle grips, there would have been a lot less wires from grips to base and lot less problems.

 

I also use old gameport cables. Wire inside is very strong and very thin.

The four way switches technically they are 9way but I just used 4

poles. But they were the ones you posted in your other thread. I found them here in the US for more money of coarse, but they were the best price and close.

http://www.onlinecomponents.com/alps-electric-rkjxl100401v.html?p=10114290&utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=&utm_term=_cat:onlinecomponents.com&utm_content=&ref=GoogleAd:-&gclid=CKjX-deQwM0CFRSUfgodeN4I-A&cshift_ck=B9E32D25-B34F-4B5F-AA31-13E3EF03ED3Fcs. They are quality with a strong spring and the action feels good. The only problem I can see is moving the lever to the four spots in a hurry might miss the spot to actuate the switch. Like in between the poles where I didn't wire to the switch. I wired black arrows up, right, left and down and the red lines could be the miss press. But they work good so far! And the action with the pots throttle movement in DCS is smooth as butter I placed the pots in 14bit in mmjoy.

I have that switches. I'll use them to mod F15 grip. I had same idea to connect them, can you press diagonals like in POV hat?

I ordered 3d printed mounting for that switch, I'll have it here next week and I'll post the results.

Nice! That would be awesome to replace my home made holder. Switches can be wired diagonal. It has pins for all 9 directions to use. They are alittle odd to solder wire too. Cause they seem more like a PCB mount then just throw wire at them. I twisted the wire around the pin and drop flux then solder on it then heat shrink. Was wondering is your POV switch ready in Shapeways? I was thinking of making the 2way switch to a 4way on the left throttle?

Is it possible to actuate, for example, left and up simultaneously? In joysticks it is possible because there are only 4 switches in a POV switch but here we have 8+1 switches.

I can add POV switches and mountings in my Shapeways store, but keep in mind that they are in BETA and I am still testing it. I just made new versions and I'll have them next week.

I have 2 versions: HERE and HERE

With them you also need a M2x10 screw, small spring and a knob. TM knobs will also fit on them. Knobs you can find in my store.

An this is mounting for Alps 9way switch.

It has 2 parts green and orange. Orange part is shaft adapter for mine or TM knobs. You can find it HERE. I have wider version HERE.

Nice, It looks good. That looks to be a the best solution. I like the shaft adapter for the other knobs. I was wondering how I was going to adapt the knobs to it. Ill wait a bit till your stratified with the alps holder.

Debolesis,

Think this 9 way switch when you move in diagonal you don't press 2 switches like in conventional HAT's, what is decoded by joystick controller firmware as another button (the HAT diagonals).

Because in this 9 way switch are contacts for individual button in diagonals positions.

But if you want use then in HAT controller position (4 buttons) wire this diagonal positions, eg. NE in N and E buttons using diodes to avoid simultaneous N and NE or E and NE simultaneous activation.

Brewnix

The only problem I can see is moving the lever to the four spots in a hurry might miss the spot to actuate the switch. Like in between the poles where I didn't wire to the switch.

Try place another (thinner) aluminium sheet over this used as switch support with a cut in + for allow pole movement only in N,E,S,W directions, so you dont move inadvertently for NE, SE, SW, NW positions.

BTW - For wire joystick buttons I too use gamepor cable wires - have a "ton" these cables.

But use this models too with practical results:

http://www.datapro.net/products/ide-hard-drive-cable-hdd-x-2.html

http://www.ebay.com/itm/50cm-40-Way-40-Pin-Female-to-Female-Flat-Ribbon-Cable-XH2-54-Connector-Wire-/311374363616?hash=item487f5bbbe0:g:7WYAAOSwYlJW6M4G

Debolesis,

 

Think this 9 way switch when you move in diagonal you don't press 2 switches like in conventional HAT's, what is decoded by joystick controller firmware as another button (the HAT diagonals).

 

Because in this 9 way switch are contacts for individual button in diagonals positions.

 

But if you want use then in HAT controller position (4 buttons) wire this diagonal positions, eg. NE in N and E buttons using diodes to avoid simultaneous N and NE or E and NE simultaneous activation.

 

Brewnix

 

 

 

Try place another (thinner) aluminium sheet over this used as switch support with a cut in + for allow pole movement only in N,E,S,W directions, so you dont move inadvertently for NE, SE, SW, NW positions.

 

BTW - For wire joystick buttons I too use gamepor cable wires - have a "ton" these cables.

 

But use this models too with practical results:

 

http://www.datapro.net/products/ide-hard-drive-cable-hdd-x-2.html

 

http://www.ebay.com/itm/50cm-40-Way-40-Pin-Female-to-Female-Flat-Ribbon-Cable-XH2-54-Connector-Wire-/311374363616?hash=item487f5bbbe0:g:7WYAAOSwYlJW6M4G

Ah I see I didn't understand the question good catch.. yes they are one press per pole not 2 at same time. But I see MMJoy has a hat section does that enable the encoding to move the switch in diagonal direction.

I keep forgetting about the IDE cables I do have those too in a big box that is actually a good idea.

I have thought of the extra plate with a cross to centralize the throw of N,E,W,S that make good sense. Got sit down to the drawning board. Got figure out the knobs too. I was thinking the natural muscle memory, if I use the shapways castle knobs orient them with the raised parts pointing in the activation direction of the button press that would be good enough to make sure you catch the right poles.

I finished testing POV switches. 4way switches needed minor modifications but they work.

5way Apls switch holder doesn't work. I screwed up with measurements. I'l fix it as soon as I find some time.

This was my idea, I wanted switches to be replacements for TM switches.

I didn't have proper spring, I found one by accident. I also use old switches that I had.

I tested it on my new MMjoy2 shield:

I made this shield for my SFS throttle. I want to switch from button matrix to shift registers. I made it modular with Leonardo pro micro, amplifier and 8 bit shift register. This shield could be useful for somebody who is building throttle with dual grips like SFS or X55.

A friend of mine asked me if I could turn this to USB:

It is terrible joystick, but he was nostalgic...

Sliding pots...

Only good this were mechanical switches. These last forever.

Nice. I have there a Gravis stick with similar style of pot actuation.

Nice work! I like the shield. What does the Joyamp do?

My 0,02$, amplify the signal from HALL sensor in this PS3 mini-stick. :)

Sokol is right. PS3 thumbstick has low resolution, I am trying to amplify voltage and improve resolution. I didn't test it yet. I'll post results soon.

Sokol is right. PS3 thumbstick has low resolution, I am trying to amplify voltage and improve resolution. I didn't test it yet. I'll post results soon.

Ah ok!

Saitek X-45 DB-15 connector pinout, by swift_cccp (IL-2 forum), useful for make a USB/Gameport adapter using MMjoy2.

This throttle use a 4x4 matrix (lines x rows) for buttons/mouse HAT.

====================================

1. Row Mouse HAT

2. Line 2

3. Axis Rotory 1

4. Gnd

5. Gnd

6. Axis Rotary 2

7. Line 3

8. + 5V

9. Row

10. Line 4

11. Axis Rocker

12. Row

13. Axis Throttle

14. Line 1

15. Row HAT

16. Gnd for case connector

====================================

Easy to make TQS2USB adapter using Arduino PRO Micro+MMJoy2. Require a box for montage and a female DB-15 connector, not the most easy/efficient option but avoid make changes in the "precious". :)

host images

In TQS buttons is handled through a 3x4 diode matrix. Scheme by swift_cccp in IL-2 forum.

New Beta firmware available.

Beta firmware - MMJOY2[20160801].

Changes (GT):

1) Removed keyboard and mouse emulation to reduce processor workload and increase firmware speed.

2) Buttons support increased up to 128. SPECIAL buttons (encoders, toggle switches, timers, etc.) can be only the first 32, above this number is simple momentary buttons.

3) Optimized TLE5011 communication protocol, sensor communication times is about 30% less.

4) Optimized shift register protocol reading.

5) Optimized accuracy of mathematics calculation for TLE5011, is now 40.000 a full rotation of 360 degrees is 40'000 (21'000 was), removed auto-tuning by a magnet (if during the course of the axis have values somewhere pass through 0-40.000 or 40.000 put a tick "displacement of the magnet"). Means TLE5011 now have 40.000 samples (about 15 bits) on 360 degrees rotation angle ~ 111 samples per degree. (1)

6) Added inverted mode button option for normally closed (NC) switches.

 

 

7) Added "Raznotyaga" * mode for double throttles (button activated, duplicate axis data in the second throttle, making move axis match 100%).

8 ) For determine USB correct device must now be undecided (?) devices when applying the new configuration.

(1) Typical joystick gimbal move about 20+20 degrees, so in practice you get ~4.400 samples or ~12 bits using TLE5011.

"Raznotyaga" - Dual throttle axis response synchronization - like in X-55 throttle - if press this button the second axis copy the values from the first, so engines is throttled up or down equals.

Thank you Sokol!

MMJOY2[20160812]

http://muonium.rgho.st/private/6rCbKTJYr/54484af91428498bf4c1ed80664529d6

fixed 4th Shift work. cosmetic changes setup Delay Timers "ON" or "ON+OFF" mode.

If you (like me) don't know, DCS controls recognize buttons above 32 without need of use keymapper.

BTW - SVMapper and Hidmacros keymappers - both no longer developed/supported - work in Windows 10/64bits and can be useful in certain cases.

Add "Run as Administrator" in shortcut for this programs or games maybe don't see key press commands due Windows UAC.