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[RESOLVED]Anybody Who Can Understand Logs?


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There is no F2 option that comes with the Asus motherboard that I know of.

 

Asus gives you many ways to OC but not with F2, not that I know of. Must be your vendors specific tool.

 

 

The monitor thing is game sensitive. may or may not show in a game, DCS sadly does.

 

I honestly think the screen is the reason, just my 2 cents.

 

 

This is ABS software. I get to it by pushing F2 at startup. I was trying to get to the bios, but got his instead.

 

I'll take a screenshot later.

Buzz

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What is strange is as I pointed out, BuzzU's combo WILL NOT PASS any CPU stress test in this config, NONE ! The CPU will shut off due to exceeding 102°C, done it, saw it, NOT GOOD.

 

Still, in DCS temps stay low enough to make at least me think that is not the cause.

 

 

Looks like it could be a bad processor. If it's shutting down in a stress test, then at lower temperatures it could simply be running into problems that are causing the stutter. Not enough to boot the PC but enough to cause errors creeping up and eating up CPU cycles.

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It never shut down. Bit stopped the tests at 95C.

 

It's really hard to believe all the problems I have with DCS is my systems fault. Would I get 600 fps in iRacing with high settings if my system was that bad? It runs IL2 BOS and COD perfect on the highest settings. No stutters in any other game. Just smooth play. It runs cool in all the other games. Actually, it runs cool in DCS now. Those stress tests did something to let me run DCS cool now. Well, not cool as in watercooled, but normal for what I have.

 

Stutters is not new for DCS. Lot's of guys have the problem. I even see it in videos posted. I think a lot of guys just accept them. I'm more picky about them.

 

My CPU cooler may not be good enough to pass a stress test, but it seems good enough to run games. I still get stutters when first entering a mission when temps are in the mid 40's. I find it hard to believe that heat is the problem.


Edited by BuzzU

Buzz

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I've been following this thread, and have nothing useful to add, but would just like to say how FANTASTIC it is that everyone has stepped up to help the OP so thoroughly and patiently and expertly. Really, really, really, great showing by you folks in your generosity in sharing time, effort, and knowledge. In other threads, I have been the direct beneficiary, and here it is the OP, but the truth is, the entire community is richer for all of you.

 

THANKS!

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It's really hard to believe all the problems I have with DCS is my systems fault.

 

Believe it. I used to have huge FPS problem in DCS (but not in other games) until I found out that my cooler was not mounted correctly on my CPU.

 

It is definitely something in your system. DCS is much more system intensive than other titles, since it is CPU, RAM and GPU intensive at the same time. It really puts pressure on the entire system, and if your system is not configured to run perfectly you will have issues.

 

I also used to have sttuter, which I luckily managed to solve by using "adaptive v-sync" and true fullscreen mode. Unfortunately stutter can be caused by any number of problems.

Current specs: Windows 10 Home 64bit, i5-9600K @ 3.7 Ghz, 32GB DDR4 RAM, 1TB Samsung EVO 860 M.2 SSD, GAINWARD RTX2060 6GB, Oculus Rift S, MS FFB2 Sidewinder + Warthog Throttle Quadrant, Saitek Pro rudder pedals.

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I've been following this thread, and have nothing useful to add, but would just like to say how FANTASTIC it is that everyone has stepped up to help the OP so thoroughly and patiently and expertly. Really, really, really, great showing by you folks in your generosity in sharing time, effort, and knowledge. In other threads, I have been the direct beneficiary, and here it is the OP, but the truth is, the entire community is richer for all of you.

THANKS!

+1! Very useful information shared here by many people :)

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I called ABS and found out something I didn't like. They don't build systems. They just sell them. He said they're built by someone else, but wouldn't tell me who. He knows nothing about my system. I told him what MB I have and he still didn't know what it is. He told me to look it up online.

 

I'm pretty much on my own as far as warranty. I've dealt with Falcon and Alienware. They built the system and knew exactly what was in my system. I made a mistake by picking ABS. It's done now and anything I change in the system i'll have to do myself. He had no idea what the mainboard temp was. He said the only temp the MB has is the CPU. Is that true?

 

What is the mainboard temp specifically? I seem to remember a south bridge and north bridge. Do they both have a temp reading?

 

I suppose if the MB cooks I can go to ASUS for warranty. Maybe I should call them and ask about it.

Buzz

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He said the only temp the MB has is the CPU.

 

 

 

picard-facepalm_mkuu.jpg

 

Call ASUS now. They will probably let you have a new motherboard. Now only to find someone to install it for you (since you've never done it before, I wouldn't recommend going at it alone)


Edited by OnlyforDCS
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Just got off the phone with ASUS. They think the mainboard temp is inaccurate and weren't sure what it was anyway. They said the only temps on the MB are the CPU and the ram. I can see both of those and they're normal. I'm not going to worry about whatever the 3rd party program is calling the mainboard temp. They said any temp that high would be giving be lock ups. I've never had one with this system.

 

Well, at least my mind is satisfied. Oh, I forgot. they said temps to 72C if fine with the CPU during gaming. The high temps I got with the stress tests Bitmaster did is showing my CPU cooler is not up for a test like that, but it's fine for gaming. That's something I can always change myself if I feel a need.

 

I guess stutters are a problem that can't be fixed with my system in DCS. Now I can't install IL2, so my options are not good for flight sims. I only have two options. Give up on DCS or deal with the stutters.

 

Not what I had in mind when I bought this system. I had to take out a loan at the bank to buy it. I'll be grinding my teeth everytime I make a payment.

Buzz

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I just thought of something. This MB has a built in sound. Does that have a temp reading?

 

Is there any kind of graphics card in the MB.

 

Sure wish I knew what the mainboard temp is for? It's not the CPU.

Buzz

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I was wrong about the program that F2 brought up was ABS. It's the ASUS program. It's got a gazillion settings to change. All I did was turn up the fans to Turbo.

 

I have one question i'm not sure about and the ASUS manual doesn't tell me what it does. It's Rapid Storage Technology. It can be turned off and on. Right now it's turned off. Is that right and what is it.

 

OH, and it also gives MB temp and it's only 23C. CPU is 43C. So, all is good. That 3rd party program is wrong.

 

I tried to take a screenshot, but since I was in bios it didn't work.

Buzz

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I figured out why IL2BOS wasn't installing. I had to delete all the programs that were installed by Bit. Not sure which one it was or if it was more than one, but it fixed it.

 

At least I have another flight sim to play if I can't stand the stutters in DCS.

Buzz

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No offense from my side either, and the 4.5 is the STOCK speed of this CPU in this specific use...as it TurboBoosts to 4.5GHz..just as it should by Intel.

 

There is no overclocking involved, no one ever went to Bios, no one turend the dials in Asus Suite yet.

 

ALl I want to is to point out, OC is not the cause for stutter.

 

 

Also this CPU is very strong, I have the same one, I can have 1 VMware open in the back and still play smooth, do a Backup for hours and game...anything almost apart from the heaviest I/O work.

 

 

There is no need to try to work on that end where it is most unlikely to be the root cause.

 

 

What is strange is as I pointed out, BuzzU's combo WILL NOT PASS any CPU stress test in this config, NONE ! The CPU will shut off due to exceeding 102°C, done it, saw it, NOT GOOD.

 

Still, in DCS temps stay low enough to make at least me think that is not the cause.

 

What must be done is check the cooler ( maybe get better one on that occasion as well ), take the cooler OFF, reapply TIM properly and put a good one back on.

 

The temps he reaches with "stock" settings are higher than mine at 5G with raised Voltages, LLC, PowerPhase etc... I am still lower on temps !!! ok..ok..I have a CWL but that is still to be considered.

 

Who else has a 7700k on air at stock settings ? How warm/hot do they get ?

 

 

My personal suspect is the ol' Dell screen @ 60Hz and Frametime/Hz issue as described earlier.

 

Would be easy to test if there was a good 2nd screen in BuzzU's reach so he could test, there just is NONE close to him, not even a shop :(

 

 

FYI:

Teamviewer and DCS:

I was amazed that I could watch him FLY dcs via teamviewer with an acceptable quality. OK, he got a 60meg pipe, that sure helped a lot...but I could see his stutter as well.

 

 

Well you keep insisiting that it is not overclocked but Turbo modde is an OC Feature.. the bone stock setting according to Intel is 4.2 if CPPU-Z states it is 4.5 or 4.7 that is Overclocked.. Now like you said it is probally not the issue but if the cooler he has can not keep it cool maybe you shoud set it too 4.2ghzx and turn OFF Turbo mode..

 

 

https://www.intel.com/content/www/us/en/products/processors/core/i7-processors/i7-7700k.html

 

 

Note the Base Frequency that is the Stock Setting.. ABS or whatever probally put it in Turbo mode that is not a default setting

 

 

Now I did say before that running Prime 95 is not a good idea and has not been since Ivy Bridge it just runs these CPU's too how..

 

 

I would run Intel Burn test for like 5 runs at High settings then try running RealBench for like 4 hours..

 

 

Realbench is a more realistic stress test and will stress to undesired heat outputs..

 

 

IF this PC fails IBT and Real Bench there is a stability problem with the components that need to be addressed..

 

 

Now if Buzz also gets stuttering in other games there is something wrong with this PPC maybe it is the CPU cooler maybe there is no TIM.. Maybe the memory is configured wrong..

 

 

I know you went through a bunch of testing but try my suggestions. I am only trying to help not takeover ;)


Edited by The_Nephilim

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It's in normal mode now. Turbo mode sets it at 4.7. I don't need that. I have plenty of fps. All the programs Bit installed I uninstalled. I'm using the ASUS program to set everything now. I get to is by going into bios at startup. I explained all that above.

 

I'm pretty sure Bit is done helping, so i'm figuring it out. He got me all updated and I appreciate it. If my only problem is stuttering in DCS. I'm not worried. It's not the only game available. I really think the stutter is unfixable.

 

When I talked to ASUS I asked about the 4.5. They said it's normal and not OC'd and I shouldn't worry about it. They thought I shouldn't run turbo unless I go with a better cooler, but 4.5 is fine with my cooler. Maybe i'll install a better cooler and run the load test, but I doubt it will help my game performance.


Edited by BuzzU

Buzz

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Well you keep insisiting that it is not overclocked but Turbo modde is an OC Feature.. the bone stock setting according to Intel is 4.2 if CPPU-Z states it is 4.5 or 4.7 that is Overclocked.. Now like you said it is probally not the issue but if the cooler he has can not keep it cool maybe you shoud set it too 4.2ghzx and turn OFF Turbo mode..

 

 

https://www.intel.com/content/www/us/en/products/processors/core/i7-processors/i7-7700k.html

 

 

Note the Base Frequency that is the Stock Setting.. ABS or whatever probally put it in Turbo mode that is not a default setting

 

 

Now I did say before that running Prime 95 is not a good idea and has not been since Ivy Bridge it just runs these CPU's too how..

 

 

I would run Intel Burn test for like 5 runs at High settings then try running RealBench for like 4 hours..

 

 

Realbench is a more realistic stress test and will stress to undesired heat outputs..

 

 

IF this PC fails IBT and Real Bench there is a stability problem with the components that need to be addressed..

 

 

Now if Buzz also gets stuttering in other games there is something wrong with this PPC maybe it is the CPU cooler maybe there is no TIM.. Maybe the memory is configured wrong..

 

 

I know you went through a bunch of testing but try my suggestions. I am only trying to help not takeover ;)

 

 

Again, this 7700k is a 4.2-4.5GHz CPU, sold by Intel as that, WITH the BUILT-IN 4.4GHZ TurboBoost for a few cores and 4.5GHz IF only ONE core is stressed. This is ALL DEFAULT for ANY i-Series CPU that sports TurboBoost. This is NOT outside of Intel allowed speeds and settings, it is EXACTLY what Intel advertises to us and sells to us.

 

The ONLY thing Asus asks you when enabling XMP ( which BuzzU doesnt use btw ! ) is that it offers a FULL-4-CORE TurboBoost to 4.5GHz. YES...this is an Asus offered OC and you can say YES or NO.

 

 

Prime95:

There are MANY versions of prime95 around, I use it since my PII days, the last one without AVX code is 26.6 and THAT was used and it drove the CPU up to 102°C until it cut the cores off, on later tests that evening I stopped it at 95°C while it still climbed the temp ladder UPWARD. I just didnt want to wait until it shuts off again, which it did before on Core-1 of 4.

 

RealBench sux, nobody seriously uses iut anymore, it's BUGGY, hasnt been updated by Asus for ages and it causes random crashes on Systems that have no flaws. HardOCP forum is full of that. Take that as a tip to not use it until Asus updated it. Many RB failures are due to GPU related driver issues that have NOTHING to do with hardware stability.

 

IBT v2 is a good thing, run a few tests with varying RAM settings and watch the temp. We did that...same outcome...TOO HOT on default.

 

 

Also, IT MUST RUN the NEWEST prime95 WITH AVX --OUT OF THE BOX-- or the system has a FAILURE.

At NO time with stock settings and ANY cooler qualifying for a 7700k with a TDP of 95w should the system run into temp issues.

Prime95 is a scientific program used by thousands of contributors to find primes, not for stress testing. I can run prime95 AVX endless in stock settings without spinning ANY fan on my CWL setup. OK, that is a watercooled, but still, any PC I have tested runs it at stock speed, even my MacBookPro does !!!! Ivy Bridge based i7-2.6GHz.

 

There is NO-NADA-ZERO excuse if a system fails ANY version of prime95 in default settings.

 

It is true that ONCE you overclock and hammer 150+Watt through your CPU you rather have a GOOD cooling system and a delidded CPU. My CPU runs to 100°C at 5G, not delidded, but it WONT FAIL, nop core drops. Up to 4.9G I dont worry about temps, just 5G need some Volts more than 4.9 and that just shifts the balanace against my cooling ..or not delidded aspect...but no core drops !

 

 

BuzzU's system failed a SIMPLE Aida64-Extreme Stability test after a few minutes !!!!!

 

It should run that test from now till 2022 nonstop, zero excuse accepted.

 

 

What would BuzzU do if he was a Professor, really needing that much CPU power to calculate his medical stuff, molecules, astronomic or seismic data etc.. all those will put equal pressure on the system and most likely fail or ruin the system.

 

 

Temps:

I dunno who talked to you at Asus, but he had not so much knowlwdge about your mobo.

There are various Thermistors built in to your mobo, and one of them reads the PCB temp, one of them redas your PCH temp but NONE reads your DDR4-Dimm temp or your CPU temp.

The CPU temp is measured by Intel's built in temp sensor on the CPU, not done by Asus, and for RAM..there simply is no sensor and there are no modules around to my knowledge that have one built in. If you want that, you need to buy a thermistor cable, connect it to your board, yes you have conns to do that, and route the end of the cable with its sensor to your RAM, that's how that works.

 

BuzzU,

 

RETURN the system for a full refund is my honest advice..or..get to a trusted shop, pay a few hours labour , and have someione you trust check tzhe CPU cooler, TIM, and overall check the system to best knowlwedge. I am sure there is something badly wrong.

 

CPU could be broken, yes...I just had 3 broken high end boards and one broken i7-6700k.

They do brick & break, seldom..but they do.

 

 

I am unaware of what could have caused that behaviour for IL2. All progs I put on where simply testing progs. The only 2 that needed to be installed were CoreTemp 1.7 and Aida64-Extreme. All others were/are executed by just clicking the .exe file in its folder, no install needed. I believe you, just puzzles me a bit.

 

 

Yes, you DO HAVE a onboard Soundcard, Realtek 1220 chip, same as I have, 100% BS rubbish chip but thats what we got. Its 100% software driven and thus actually should be avoided to use..but these days most low-mid class boards only have those.

Those HighEnd Z170 boards I had used proped Hardware accelerated DSP's by Cmedia, jst that costs a bit more. My MacBookPro has one of them as well, maybe thats why many prefer Mac for doing music/audio. But I am no Audio professional, just repeating what I know about hardware accelerated sound and software driven acceleration ( by CPU ).


Edited by BitMaster

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BuzzU,

 

got to BIOS, hit F5 ( load deafaults, and then hit F10, then YES and exit.

 

That should get you back to STOCK settings, NO OC, jujst 4.2-4.5GHz depending on number of cores used. This is 100% Intel spec.. Whoever tells you something else is just wrong.

 

Do not let your system run in OC with cooling in question. Load defaults and then rethink RMA or whatever, but dont leave it as it is with 4.7.

 

Also, I told you, you almost cannot ruin any intel cpu with temp, it WILL protect itself and shut off. If it breaks due to temp Intel is backing you with a full RMA promise.

What they dont cover is delidding and broken CPU due to serious OVERVOLTING.

 

What kills a Processor ( of ANY kind ) is VOLTS foremost..not temp..remember that.

Gigabyte Aorus X570S Master - Ryzen 5900X - Gskill 64GB 3200/CL14@3600/CL14 - Asus 1080ti EK-waterblock - 4x Samsung 980Pro 1TB - 1x Samsung 870 Evo 1TB - 1x SanDisc 120GB SSD - Heatkiller IV - MoRa3-360LT@9x120mm Noctua F12 - Corsair AXi-1200 - TiR5-Pro - Warthog Hotas - Saitek Combat Pedals - Asus PG278Q 27" QHD Gsync 144Hz - Corsair K70 RGB Pro - Win11 Pro/Linux - Phanteks Evolv-X 

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BuzzU,

 

RETURN the system for a full refund is my honest advice..or..get to a trusted shob, pay a few hours labour , and have someione you trust check tzhe CPU cooler, TIM, and overall check the system to best knowlwedge. I am sure there is something badly wrong.

 

 

This is the best advice you have recieved on here so far. If you have warranty on the system, return it for a refund. Insist on it if you have to, make a nuissance of yourself, threaten them with bad internet reviews etc. whatever it takes.

 

If you don't have a warranty on it, things will be a little bit more difficult, since as you said you live in a small town. Still, there must be at least one person in that town that knows their s*%t when it comes to putting together PCs?

Current specs: Windows 10 Home 64bit, i5-9600K @ 3.7 Ghz, 32GB DDR4 RAM, 1TB Samsung EVO 860 M.2 SSD, GAINWARD RTX2060 6GB, Oculus Rift S, MS FFB2 Sidewinder + Warthog Throttle Quadrant, Saitek Pro rudder pedals.

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This is depressing that the answer is to return the system. Wouldn't changing the cooler with a better one be a better answer? That would also answer the question of the thermal paste being a bad install too.

 

I won't deal with ABS anymore, but I didn't buy from them directly. I bought it at Newegg. They have rules about returns. A refund would cost me shipping back to them and a restocking fee. An exchange will get me a return shipping label and no other cost unless I pick a more expensive system. I don't want to exchange for another ABS system. I'm done with them.

 

I know my system couldn't pass the stress tests, but in gaming, the only problem I have is some stutters in one game (DCS). Is that a reason to return it? I doubt Newegg will think so. Newegg will also try to fix it before exchanging it. They also might decide to send it back to ABS for repair. That would take forever. When I talked to ABS they said sending it back for repair would mean sending it back to who builds their systems and it would take 6-8 weeks at a minimum. I refuse to be without a computer that long. I don't even like the idea of being out the time it would take to send it back to Newegg for an exchange.

 

I'd like to buy a better cooler, install it the best I can, and retest it. I doubt it will stop the DCS stutters, but at least the system will be fixed.

Buzz

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The problem is that we are not 100% certain it is the cooler. It could be a bad batch CPU that you got. Or it could be something with your Mainboard. There is no simple way to check this out. THe only thing that is certain is that the system failed that Aida64-Extreme Stability test, so that means there is something wrong with it.

 

There is one more thing you can try. Try underclocking the CPU in BIOS, and then run the test again.

Current specs: Windows 10 Home 64bit, i5-9600K @ 3.7 Ghz, 32GB DDR4 RAM, 1TB Samsung EVO 860 M.2 SSD, GAINWARD RTX2060 6GB, Oculus Rift S, MS FFB2 Sidewinder + Warthog Throttle Quadrant, Saitek Pro rudder pedals.

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The problem is that we are not 100% certain it is the cooler. It could be a bad batch CPU that you got. Or it could be something with your Mainboard. There is no simple way to check this out. THe only thing that is certain is that the system failed that Aida64-Extreme Stability test, so that means there is something wrong with it.

 

There is one more thing you can try. Try underclocking the CPU in BIOS, and then run the test again.

 

You can underclock it in Asus Suite without ever going to Bios, its a lot simpler in that Suite inside windows and can be done on the fly.

 

 

BuzzU,

 

there are hundreds of YouTube videos showing you how to mount a cooler on your socket 1151,

the new cooler has a ( hopefully ) a clear set of instructions as well and if you have a 2nd PC/Laptop the forum can help while the system is taken apart, photos, video-conference etc..all possible.

 

I wanted to suggest that an hour ago and deleted that post before posting as I thought you would never consider mounting a cooler yourself, but be assured, it is EASY, you are an excperienced car mechanic, that totally qualifies for doing that. USe moderate force, never FORCE with too much power etc.. you know all this as a mechanic. Read twice before doing anything new...all that aint new to you I assume.

 

Depending on your RAM height ( make a pic of that please and post ) you have to choose your cooler. If you want watercooling you have to check what size of radiator fits inside your Case. Mounting a watercooler is not more complicated ( even simpler often ) than mounting an air cooler.

 

Isnt there ANY shop around you could go to ?

Gigabyte Aorus X570S Master - Ryzen 5900X - Gskill 64GB 3200/CL14@3600/CL14 - Asus 1080ti EK-waterblock - 4x Samsung 980Pro 1TB - 1x Samsung 870 Evo 1TB - 1x SanDisc 120GB SSD - Heatkiller IV - MoRa3-360LT@9x120mm Noctua F12 - Corsair AXi-1200 - TiR5-Pro - Warthog Hotas - Saitek Combat Pedals - Asus PG278Q 27" QHD Gsync 144Hz - Corsair K70 RGB Pro - Win11 Pro/Linux - Phanteks Evolv-X 

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I just checked Newegg. There's no system they have that comes close to the specs I have now for the same price. I don't have my system either. It's out of stock. So, sending it back would mean waiting who knows how long to get t back and would it be any better when I did. A refund would mean lost money and no system.

 

Looking at my case I think water cooling would be a problem. The case is really an air cooled case. The upper rear fan would be a spot for the radiator, but that would mean the case wouldn't have that cooling and the vid card would run hot. That was the problem my last system had that was water cooled.

 

The ram is close to the cooler now. Maybe one of the stand up style coolers will work? I have a lot of room from the top of the cooler to the side case panel.

 

I just looked at all the coolers at Newegg. So many choices it's confusing. What do you guys recommend?

 

 

btw No shop near me.


Edited by BuzzU

Buzz

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