MMjoy

You can but it is a bit bigger than original.

Thank you debolestis,

i saw that is your work, and it is GREAT!

I was just asking if is ready to use, by wiring it to warthog connector as in picture found on the web and attached below.

as second question, have you available all the electric schema of the board?

Did you know if someone has made a similar board with SMD?

thank you!

It will work with warthog connector, I only renamed MISO as OUT on my PCB. I started SMD version but I have never finished it, maybe one day.

Here is schematics:

It will work with warthog connector, I only renamed MISO as OUT on my PCB. I started SMD version but I have never finished it, maybe one day.

Here is schematics:

Thank You,

:thumbup:

just few question:

1) PLS2X12 are the connection point for the buttons, right?

2) Resistors are the same values for everyone? are they 100K?

3) using it for the warthog, can i simply forget obout the OUT connections?

next days i will try to do something on my own.

:joystick:

My latest creation...

A Radar controller for the DCS: AJS 37 Viggen.

It has a three stage trigger, but only two trigger switches. I set up MMJoy2 so that a 3rd switch is activated when the trigger is released.

It also has a 3 stage mode selector on top, a rotary encoder and two buttons.

Will have another two encoders on the base, and perhaps a switch or two. Will se what will fit...

https://forums.eagle.ru/showthread.php?p=3144246

1) PLS2X12 are the connection point for the buttons, right?

Yes, you can separate then in various connectors if convenient.

2) Resistors are the same values for everyone? are they 100K?

Resistors are 10k (can use resistor net) - the 100nF is capacitor (filter between + and -).

3) using it for the warthog, can i simply forget obout the OUT connections?

Yes, OUT is for plug another Shift Register board for use more buttons, no need for Warthog.

You can forget about IN connectors and use OUT to connect to warthog. If you want to use multiple boards than OUT goes to IN and next OUT to controller.

You can forget about IN connectors and use OUT to connect to warthog. If you want to use multiple boards than OUT goes to IN and next OUT to controller.

Thanks,

i'm working to try to create the smd board with eagle.

then i have to search among the post which is the interface to get that board to USB?

You need a USB interface with support for Shift Register serial protocol.

Example MMjoy2 (subject of this topic) for Arduino based on ATMEGA32u4.

Are some code sketch for other Arduinos with support, for this look in Arduino pages.

Got some questions.

I have mostly finished my sticks and throttle but I have an issue with my extra pots. I think maybe Im using the wrong type for what I am wanting to do.

On my CH throttle I added 2 pots on the grip and 2 on the base. Now they do function but their range is very little.

Meaning that they have almost a full 360* range of motion but in MMJOY they dont actually change any values until almost half way but then the value changes very fast over a short distance.

What I would like is for them to be less sensitive and the value change over a bigger range in the turning and not in such a short distance of movement.

So what does it sound like is the issue?

Anyway to fix this?

Also would like to note that I have no real clue how to use the axis special functions tab. I dont really understand the curves etc....

The pots I'm using were some I took out of an old gameport racing wheel(3 to be exact) that I've had for years plus another from an old broken joystick. They all work exactly the same way as above.

Like I said I may not be using the correct pots for what I'm wanting. If that is the case then what pots do I need?

Im wanting them for things like engine management and such in the WWII sims.

Got some questions.

[...]Meaning that they have almost a full 360* range of motion but in MMJOY they dont actually change any values until almost half way but then the value changes very fast over a short distance.[...]

 

If you use an ohmmeter and meter it's resistance between the (usually middle is cursor) middle and other pin you will see from where it starts variating the resistance. Then you would understand that pots have a limited portion of work.

 

Sorry about my English..

Got some questions.

[...]Meaning that they have almost a full 360* range of motion but in MMJOY they dont actually change any values until almost half way but then the value changes very fast over a short distance.[...]

 

If you use an ohmmeter and meter it's resistance between the (usually middle is cursor) middle and other pin you will see from where it starts variating the resistance. Then you would understand that pots have a limited portion of work.

 

Sorry about my English..

 

 

To make things a bit clearer.

 

In the picture the dark green is how much the pot turns.

The light green between the the 2 red points is all the actually does anything at all.

I know some pots only have a certain variance.

 

I guess what I really needing to know is if I want to get variance between the 2 black marks:

Is it a wiring issue?

DO I need different pots?

Is there a way to add a resistor or something to change to what I need?

 

I'm just not quiet sure what I need to do to get data changes between the black lines instead of the red lines in the pic below.

 

 

You did the calibration? After do this the axis response should be all pot course.

Unless you are using "joystick pot" e.g. the ones used in CH sticks, they have limited ~60 degrees of electrical travel - despite be able to turn ~270 degrees.

This limited "electrical angle" is desired for joysticks gimbal limited movement (20-30 degrees for each side).

On the other way, if you use conventional COTS pot with 270 ~300 degrees of "electrical angle" in joystick gimbal the voltage variation will be not the expected (e.g. 0-5v)

and thus the axis resolution ("steps") will be reduced proportionally.

You did the calibration? After do this the axis response should be all pot course.

 

Unless you are using "joystick pot" e.g. the ones used in CH sticks, they have limited ~60 degrees of electrical travel - despite be able to turn ~270 degrees.

 

This limited "electrical angle" is desired for joysticks gimbal limited movement (20-30 degrees for each side).

 

On the other way, if you use conventional COTS pot with 270 ~300 degrees of "electrical angle" in joystick gimbal the voltage variation will be not the expected (e.g. 0-5v)

and thus the axis resolution ("steps") will be reduced proportionally.

Ok I see where the problem is now with what you said here.

Yes they are basically old joystick pots. They were from an old racing wheel. From the pedals to be exact. So I just needed some regular linear pots.

But now I had another slight issue. While I had the throttle apart cleaning up wire routing the main pots fell from where it sits. I put it back in what seems to be the only way.

But now in MMJOY the values no longer read from 1-1023 like they did before. Now the read about 5-893. I cant seem to figure out whats going on. If I remove the pot from the mounting location and just turn the pot it will do the full 1-1023 but not with the arm connected.

Everything else is just fine.

Here is a pic showing what i mean.

Before the issue I descibed in last post the value row would match the value processed. But now I get what you see.

Also when moving the throttle grip forward it now hits full %100 just over 3/4 full and then from full coming back to about 3/4 it does nothing at all until I hit that point again.

The only thing that changed was the original pot fell out of it location where it controls the plastic arm. I put it back in what seems to be the only way and I have had this issue ever sense no matter what I try.

So I'm lost.

Any ideas?

Let's make it clear... the ADC (analogic digital converter) is the part that do the job. What it does is to divide the voltage input from your pot (that is a valtage variator from VCC to 0V when it works correctly). Since it is a 10 bit ADC, it has a resolution of 5V/1024 (10 bits =2^10), meaning that a variation of 0.0048828125 V is 1 point of the scale (one of those 0-1023 steps). So If you're getting 5-893 means that the ADC is converting from 0.0048828125 V to 4.3603515625V. I guess you have a with the internal resistance of your pot. I'd use an ohmmeter to check if it's fine.

Let's make it clear... the ADC (analogic digital converter) is the part that do the job. What it does is to divide the voltage input from your pot (that is a valtage variator from VCC to 0V when it works correctly). Since it is a 10 bit ADC, it has a resolution of 5V/1024 (10 bits =2^10), meaning that a variation of 0.0048828125 V is 1 point of the scale (one of those 0-1023 steps). So If you're getting 5-893 means that the ADC is converting from 0.0048828125 V to 4.3603515625V. I guess you have a with the internal resistance of your pot. I'd use an ohmmeter to check if it's fine.

I'll check with the meter.

What I dont understand is the original CH pot was working perfect. It slid out of its holder and off the arm that controls everything.

I put it right back in the only way it can seem to fit and now I get the odd readings.

Its almost like it did not go back together into its holder the way it should and is throwing it off.

Like I said if I remove it from the arm and move the wiper I will then get full range again. But as soon as I put it back into its original holder/mount I lose the full range.

Thats what has me lost. It will only go 1 way that I can see.

Does that still sound as if its a pot issue?

Seems to go full range with meter.

Has something to do with the mounting, at least I assume.

Looks like the way that you are assembling the pot don't turn the wiper in the same way that before.

BTW - When the pot fall the throttle are connect to computer USB?

Just in case, I see more than one case of guys that kill their controller and hang up their computers, done "maintenance" inside with device connected to USB. :)

No I never work on anything while still connected to USB.

Ive messed with and built PC's and tech work for 20+ years.

Ive tried assembling the pot several different ways but it always stays almost exactly the same everytime.

If take the pot out of the assembly and just turn the wiper it will do the 0-1023 but not in the assembly.

Looks like the way that you are assembling the pot don't turn the wiper in the same way that before.

 

BTW - When the pot fall the throttle are connect to computer USB?

I read your post again.

The be more exact, the post will only go into the assembly one way.

The pot still turns in the correct direction, just not to its fullest unless I take it out from assembly then turn by hand.

I took it out and tried different ways of putting it back but now the instead of the 5+-890 it now reads 25-1023.I'm assuming there must be a certain way on installing it thats just not making sense to me,it will only go 1 way in.

For now until I can figure it out I added a +5 to the dead zone to help it but I really rather have it correct.

I also tried 2 other pots in the throttle that I have laying around and they do the exact same readings. :crash:

I also tried different ports on the Pro Micro but same results. But all other pots I have on the throttle give correct readings. So my conclusion is that it must be installed wrong but again it only goes 1 way.

EDIT:

One other question about pots from earlier since I used the incorrect ones for my rotaries.

Are the full range rotaries just 100k or less linear pots?

Reason I ask is Ive played guitar since the 80's and I have a ton of linear pots laying around that I could use.They range from 100k to 1mohm and lots of them are CTS since thats all I buy for them.

Try make MMjoySetup calibration, may this restore de 0~1024 range.

The ideal pot for use in USB controllers is ~10k* - B type (linear taper response), 99.99% of pot you find in electronic stores has 270 or 300 degree of electrical angle.

"Joystick pot" with limited to 30~60 degrees electrical angle seems done under order for industry - why people don't find then for replace the bad quality pot in Saitek's.

Guitar pot is probable audio pot, with logarithmic taper response. Test to see if fit for your needs.

* You can use 1 to 100k, but is said that lower values, e.g. 1K draw more Amperage from USB and can be issue if used many pot, and high values 50-100K tends pick more electric noise (spikes) specially with long wires.

In USB controller pot is used for read voltage variation, e.g. 0 to 5v so resistance (K) is secondary, in gameport controller pot are used for read resistance, e.g. 0 to 100K (pot nominal resistance).

Try make MMjoySetup calibration, may this restore de 0~1024 range.

 

The ideal pot for use in USB controllers is ~10k* - B type (linear taper response), 99.99% of pot you find in electronic stores has 270 or 300 degree of electrical angle.

 

"Joystick pot" with limited to 30~60 degrees electrical angle seems done under order for industry - why people don't find then for replace the bad quality pot in Saitek's.

 

Guitar pot is probable audio pot, with logarithmic taper response. Test to see if fit for your needs.

 

* You can use 1 to 100k, but is said that lower values, e.g. 1K draw more Amperage from USB and can be issue if used many pot, and high values 50-100K tends pick more electric noise (spikes) specially with long wires.

 

In USB controller pot is used for read voltage variation, e.g. 0 to 5v so resistance (K) is secondary, in gameport controller pot are used for read resistance, e.g. 0 to 100K (pot nominal resistance).

Thanks. Ive messed with the calibration and made the throttle usable without being able to really notice. Gonna do some more research and see what I can do to get this correct.

As for the pots im just wanting a couple that has at least 270 degree range for some rotaries to use. The joystick pots I used are just too small range and really sensitive for what I want them for.

So linear taper 10k b-type is all I need?

Yeah we dont have any electronics stores anymore. I'll just order from DigiKey Im not far from them so it only takes about 2 days to get them and is cheap on shipping. Or at least they ship from close by me.

As for the complete HOTAS conversion and mods they are working really well now that Im getting them tweaked in the software side.

But I need to find a decent software to make profiles with for them. A couple games Ive played doesnt always keep the joystick numbering the same after a system reboot.

I just dont know what is the best and somewhat simple/easy to use.

I tried Pinnacle Game Profiler since I already had it for something else but its a pain to try and figure the software out, not very straightforward.

Im up for any suggestions.

So linear taper 10k b-type is all I need?

 

Look at Digikey, Mouser for good brands like Bourns, Spectrol, Alps...

But I need to find a decent software to make profiles with for them.

Look at JoystickGreemlin

For basic things (keys on switch ON and OFF, Alt+Ctrl+Shif+key), some profiles (8/16) Joy2Key or Xpader is easy to use.

I've looked into Joystick Gremlin and liked what I saw.

Only issue I had with it was it didnt seem to register for mouse clicks.

I also play space games like Star Citizen and the default weapon groups are bound to mouse.

This game is also like IL-2 in that on reboots it shuffles the joystick id's around. I could rebind them from the mouse but again I would have to remap those controls every time windows shuffles the id's.

So i converted 3 CH sticks. 2 Combatsticks and 1 throttle.

The 2nd COmbatstick I also converted to a lefty for dual stick setups in space games. Turned out really good.

I do appreciate all the help everyone has given here, especially Sokol. You've been a big help.

Using this one! It's great, https://github.com/AntiMicro/antimicro have a look.