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Old 06-11-2018, 10:30 PM   #11
cromhunt
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take care
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Old 06-11-2018, 11:00 PM   #12
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Oh and trim... always be trimming. Change something... hit the trim, recenter stick. You should avoid having to old pressure on the stick as much as possible. Pop it up into the hover, then trim. Move cyclic forward, Trim. Add collectiveand pitch for for speed, TRIM! :-)

The only exception to this is the rudder pedals I have rudder trimming off, unless you have proper anti torque pedals that don't recenter themselves it can be easy to get yourself out of sorts in your head as to where your pedals are set in reality. So I just set my spring to the weakest and keep constant pressure on it so I can feed out the anti torque smoothly as I change my collective. Your mileage may vary though.
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Old 06-12-2018, 01:05 AM   #13
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Nah OP is just getting it light on the skids without the correct cyclic input and off he slides. Kinda like a hover craft.

Hover practice will help hovering the Huey has to be done by the pilot not the AP system so a bit of a learning curve.
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Old 06-12-2018, 06:27 AM   #14
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The violent departure with the ground is probably due to pent up pitch, bank, or yaw forces that are allowed to express themselves when the weight is lifted.

With a keen eye you can sense the helicopter shifting forward, twisting, or banking to the side on the flexible landing skids at a lift less than that which leaves the ground.

You may want to enable the controls display indicator (RCtrl-Enter) and very, very slowly increase the collective with your hands off the cyclic and feet off the pedals until you detect any of the three motions. As soon as you see the motions drop the collective and let the helicopter rest again under its full weight. Apply a control deflection to counter the motion you noticed and press the trim button. Repeat until the helicopter does practically none of the three motions on lift off.

With practice these trims will be known and you can by memory apply them before they are even needed. You will be able to apply corrections in all three axes simultaneously to counter the motions even without a good trim state. But for starters solve one thing at a time and when in doubt do it slower than the last attempt.
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Old 06-12-2018, 10:17 AM   #15
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As has been said already, pull the "cyclic" (joystick) back and left a bit. Apply some left pedal (rudder). Ease up on the "collective" (throttle-control) slowly. I usually leave the actual throttle in the UH-1H at full.


Two extra tips.


1. Use the training missions provided in DCS. The take-off one will talk you through it.


2. Reduce your load. Going with maximum weapons/payload makes your job more difficult when first starting, as the helicopter is then very heavy and prone to overcompensation.
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Old 06-12-2018, 06:40 PM   #16
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the hueys tendency to pull right and forward is why you need to trim an approximate left and aft stick for taking off vertically. add the dreaded right hand torque which also explains why left pedal pushed is also needed.

It is 100 % manual. No automata involved with controlling her.
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Old 06-13-2018, 12:31 AM   #17
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Go hear and grab the Chuck's guide on the UH1. Read it. Make sure you look at his control setups and adjustments .

https://forums.eagle.ru/showthread.php?t=135765
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Old 06-13-2018, 06:35 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dotChuckles View Post
Oh and trim... always be trimming. Change something... hit the trim, recenter stick. You should avoid having to old pressure on the stick as much as possible. Pop it up into the hover, then trim. Move cyclic forward, Trim. Add collectiveand pitch for for speed, TRIM! :-)

The only exception to this is the rudder pedals I have rudder trimming off, unless you have proper anti torque pedals that don't recenter themselves it can be easy to get yourself out of sorts in your head as to where your pedals are set in reality. So I just set my spring to the weakest and keep constant pressure on it so I can feed out the anti torque smoothly as I change my collective. Your mileage may vary though.
DotChuckles - There are several trim settings available for the Huey in the settings page and I'm not sure which one is meant for use with a self-centring joystick. I use a special joystick with weakened centring spring for the Huey - to spare my arm on long flights but I can't decide which trim option is really meant to be used with that sort of set-up. I would like your advice on which setting to use.
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Old 06-13-2018, 07:06 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fencible View Post
DotChuckles - There are several trim settings available for the Huey in the settings page and I'm not sure which one is meant for use with a self-centring joystick. I use a special joystick with weakened centring spring for the Huey - to spare my arm on long flights but I can't decide which trim option is really meant to be used with that sort of set-up. I would like your advice on which setting to use.
You use for a such "non-FF + non-Spring" option. That means as you don't have Force Feedback nor spring force to center or move your cyclic, you just trim to tell Autopilot/Channels that you just trimmed there.
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Old 06-13-2018, 08:09 PM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Fri13 View Post
You use for a such "non-FF + non-Spring" option. That means as you don't have Force Feedback nor spring force to center or move your cyclic, you just trim to tell Autopilot/Channels that you just trimmed there.
But he has a spring though weak. That option is mainly if you also, in addition to the properties you mentioned, have friction enough to hold the stick in place. But it can of course be used like you suggest as well.
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