y2kiah's A-10C cockpit build - Page 2 - ED Forums
 


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Old 04-02-2010, 01:52 PM   #11
y2kiah
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I was also planning to use a pot for the RCVR control. I thought of using one with a built in switch to click into the off position, common on volume knobs, but I think I remember seeing a linear pot somewhere with it. Regarding DCS, I have the same thoughts as you on many of the controls around the cockpit - the environment panel being one that is pretty much wasted on the sim. It has no meaningful contribution to the software or the physical environment (unless you built in an A/C and heater, hehe). If nothing else, I will put them there for looks and procedure. Extra switches can't hurt anyway, could always map them to some random function in DCS instead of what the real world function is.

On the topic of cockpit lighting, my plan was to use three-pole switches and pots for pretty much all cockpit lighting controls. One pole would interface with the sim, another would be on a 120VAC isolated circuit for NVIS lighting the panels with EL sheet. The third on yet another isolated circuit for white back lighting of the panels with LEDs. Dimming would only be available for the LEDs.
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Old 04-04-2010, 02:29 AM   #12
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It looks like your measurements are very close for the fuel panel. The RCVR LT is a pot but it does not have a click to the off position. The Fill Disable switches are push pull like a circuit breaker switch. The Line check is a push button. just so you know
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Old 04-05-2010, 01:51 AM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Deadman View Post
It looks like your measurements are very close for the fuel panel. The RCVR LT is a pot but it does not have a click to the off position. The Fill Disable switches are push pull like a circuit breaker switch. The Line check is a push button. just so you know
Thanks Deadman, the screenshots Wags posted make the fill disable switches look like push buttons. I'll have to look for some push/pull switches, or push on/push off would satisfy me too. It's always nice when someone who owns the real panel is willing to share information.
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Old 04-05-2010, 01:52 AM   #14
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Yes, they are push/pull buttons. If I remember correctly, you pull them out to disable fill.
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Old 04-05-2010, 02:30 AM   #15
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Wages your right I just looked it up to be sure From the T.O. page 1-19 Fill disable switches The four fill disable switches are similar to circuit breakers. If a main or wing tank is damaged, pull up the respective switch to prevent that tank from being refueled
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Old 04-07-2010, 01:40 PM   #16
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Default It's alive!



It's a home made 5' x 3' machine of mostly my own design, borrowing several techniques from well-known DIY cnc tutorials online. I still need to make the router mount, and smooth out the motors with some calibration. It's capable of jogging at over 4 inches per second (240 ipm), but it remains to be seen what kind of cutting speed can be achieved without stalling the motors.
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Old 04-07-2010, 07:08 PM   #17
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Well done mate!

That CnC is gonna become your best friend... c",)
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Old 04-07-2010, 09:17 PM   #18
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well done !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
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Old 04-09-2010, 02:49 AM   #19
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Thanks gents. Trigger I have you and your monster thread to thank (blame?) for all of this craziness.

My next video will hopefully be cutting out the fuel panel. I found a local plastics supplier that should save me some $ on shipping, though I think they sell 8x4 sheets minimum, which is probably much more than I'll need for the whole pit. I plan to use a translucent white Acrylic for the panels, so the lettering will be white when engraved from the painted black surface, and can still be back lit.

I've also been playing with a couple samples of EL sheet. One is pink when off and light green when lit, the other is white off, green lit. I know now to stay away from the pink/green stuff because the green it produces is not very good. The white/green variety makes a much deeper, truer green, much closer to the bluish green tint of NVIS backlighting.
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Old 04-11-2010, 07:02 AM   #20
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Well done on the CNC. It makes some good noises - it is indeed alive.

See if your acrylic supplier will sell you some offcuts, or find one of their local customers, and buy their offcuts. 8 x 4 sheets are an awkward size for cars and home.

I assume you will be able to control the plunge depth on your router? Or just two positions?

You'll be able to feed your cutter (1/8 or 1/4 end mill?) at a good speed, but your enemy will be heat, and the acrylic melting round the cutter, I think. Never machined acrylic like that though, you may be fine.

This has got me thinking about g codes and cutter offsets for the first time in years!

Looking forwards to seeing your results.
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