Helicopter collective

Very nice work indeed mr_mojo97. Keep those pictures flowing Sir

Cheers

Hans

Hey, FragBum, that's the way I was going to go- a scratch built one - I think I'd have preferred having a twist grip throttle on the collective - think it would add better immersion for me. Maybe I'll get rid of this at some point and buy a Huey collective. Yours is looking good though, neat and tidy. And enjoy that stick time!!

Cheers Hansolo, not so much tinkering time these days but I'll try

I enjoy watching your progress. Thanks for sharing.

Hey, FragBum, that's the way I was going to go- a scratch built one - I think I'd have preferred having a twist grip throttle on the collective - think it would add better immersion for me. Maybe I'll get rid of this at some point and buy a Huey collective. Yours is looking good though, neat and tidy. And enjoy that stick time!!

Indeed I did enjoy it.. :thumbup: :D

I wrestled with twist throttle, however only ever really use it for engine start up, test power and governor function, rotor free wheel function for preflight and engine shutdown. So I have that option and it doesn't have to rotate much, it's just getting the interface and mechanics functional.

If I already had that collective I'd probably keep it and make the mechanics and interface work well and maybe just use keyboard throttle up/down. :D

You might need some resistance to movement of the collective to allow it to stay in position after setting cruse power thats how it works in the R44.

You control it when in hover, landing or takeoff but once you set off you set it's angle for the required cruse power and kinda maybe make some slight adjustments otherwise you could actually take your hand off the collective to do required tasks and the collective will just stay put.

When I get back home I have a motor cycle steering damper to fit to see if it simulates the feel and function of a collective :).

TBH Once you get the physical collective functional in your simpit you'll find flying helicopter a lot more immersive full stop. :thumbup:

Curious mechanism in this DIY collective, the guy use a "ratchet" to stop.

http://prdevices.pl/fbw-collective/

The switch panel if you look closely is my old A-10C radio panel - just some plexiglass with a laminated photo of the real thing glued to it. The mega cheap option. Lol.

 

I might just leave the relay for now, beacause I swap around with the Warthog throttle quite a bit, having an extra cable to unplug would be a pain in the arse.

 

You've given my an idea about the hall sensors - for some reason I thought it would be better using two magnets - maybe just one going towards a steel bracket would be better.

 

I got to where I need to be to be able to fly, the touch ups and fine tuning will come later. Now, time to fly the Huey.

 

@cheers Bignewy - in fact it was your build that made me think about doing one ages ago!

Just in case you want it, the circuit for an independent 12v mag brake. For when you want to swap out for TM throttle, just turn it off. No need to unplug anything.

I am running 2 of these, one for the cyclic with 2 magnets and one for the collective with one magnet. I just turn off the power to them both when not in use...

And I know what you mean about getting back to flying! That's where I am right now. Few tweaks and amendments, but it all works a treat! Best controls I ever had since I started some 30 years ago....:noexpression:

Hey Mole, it's your circuit diagram that I used to wire up my relay and sensor, but could not get it to work. Probably as I tried to use it through the 5v of the LB X board rather than a 12 v supply! I might also ahead and get one of those door electromagnets you provided info on. My problem is I can't have anything like a strong damper because the collective is mounted to a small table so when I lift the collective it just pulls the table up!! Maybe I could add a brick or something....

Hey Mole, it's your circuit diagram that I used to wire up my relay and sensor, but could not get it to work. Probably as I tried to use it through the 5v of the LB X board rather than a 12 v supply! I might also ahead and get one of those door electromagnets you provided info on. My problem is I can't have anything like a strong damper because the collective is mounted to a small table so when I lift the collective it just pulls the table up!! Maybe I could add a brick or something....

Hi Mr_Mojo97,

The relay should work with 5v I think. The 12v in my system is for the electro-mags to be powered. The relay is there to turn off the 12v supply to the mags when the PTB switch is activated, but the 12v continues to run through the relay so it works. Maybe it's your electro-mag not working with 5v.

You may not need a damper, so long as the brake works. But it feels better. I would worry if every time I pulled up, the collective base moved! Think how heavy is the TM throttle, plus it has screw holes for mounting. A house brick might be the perfect solution to your building. (see what I did there...)

Hey Mole, it's your circuit diagram that I used to wire up my relay and sensor, but could not get it to work. Probably as I tried to use it through the 5v of the LB X board rather than a 12 v supply! I might also ahead and get one of those door electromagnets you provided info on. My problem is I can't have anything like a strong damper because the collective is mounted to a small table so when I lift the collective it just pulls the table up!! Maybe I could add a brick or something....

Please check my build I have utilised a concrete paver for my collective even with such a small amount of friction it needs some mass. The next stage, using the damper will need the collective to be somehow mechanically tied into the sim frame.

I have to say even in the Robinson lifting the collective doesn't pull the control panel up. Just saying. :thumbup:

I really wouldn't recommend running the electromagnets off anything other then a a seperate power supply to any of the other electronics.:music_whistling:

:thumbup:

Please check my build I have utilised a concrete paver for my collective even with such a small amount of friction it needs some mass. The next stage, using the damper will need the collective to be somehow mechanically tied into the sim frame.

 

I have to say even in the Robinson lifting the collective doesn't pull the control panel up. Just saying. :thumbup:

 

I really wouldn't recommend running the electromagnets off anything other then a a seperate power supply to any of the other electronics.:music_whistling:

:thumbup: my point too....

Hi molvitch and mr_mojo97 as a minimum you should also consider putting a diode across the electromagnet coils to absorb the voltage spike generated by the collapsing field.

Here is a basic concept just a simple 1N4004 will do fine for this application. *

a bit more information here

The diode is soldered across each coil with the cathode towards the end of the electromagnet that connects to the positive supply. In normal operation the diode does not conduct however when power is disconnected the back EMF produced by the collapsing magnetic field in the coil is effectively shunted by the diode. ;)

* keep in mind when you do this the coil will be effectively polarity dependent.

Note this also includes the coil of the relay.

Addendum:

Well I was really lucky as my partner allowed me to do another 2 hours WOW! (4.8Hrs logged)

Well throttle control is a must for doing simulated autorotations and simulated power loss at hover. So I am going to have to re-think this,... no I just followed the instructor on the controls on those. :D:D

Throttle could be as simple as assigning a couple of buttons but I gotta say doing those was awesome as for the rest of the flying hands on and the biggest take-away is the R44 is easier to fly, land, takeoff, hover and transition in real life than DCS Gazelle more like the Huey but kinda easier. :thumbup: