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y2kiah's A-10C cockpit build


y2kiah

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Had a bit of a look on Digikey, and assuming it is a dot matrix they appear to be very expensive. (Under "Display Modules - LED Character and Numeric")

 

EDIT: Around US$25 from Arrow for an 8 char, but I've no idea how you get two offset rows like that...

 

I guess those are relatively dedicated LED's, they don't sell much of those and the price stays high.

 

Try to look for Vacuum fluorescent display(LED), or organic LED(OLED).

 

Like LCD, when refered to as "dot-matrix", it usually comes in no more than two solid display areas filled with uniform matrices of pixels.

 

On the other hand, alphanumeric display are quite like segmented display. Pixels are divided into individual groups, each with a number of pixels arranged in a pattern depending on the character they are capable of showing. Pixels may differ from each other in shape, and they are designed that way to make the characters look smooth and confortable.

 

In between, is characther display. It looks like alphanumeric display in character arrangment, as pixels also come in groups. But within each group, it looks just like a dot-matrix display which has uniform pixels.

 

I'm headed out to visit electronic stores, hopefully I may return with a character VFD in the right size. :music_whistling:

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Hi, y2kiah. How do you manage to paint the yellow stripes with precision?

BTW, your software renders pretty well, it looks nice.

 

Thanks Alex, I use Sketchup. The yellow stripes took a lot of clicking, that's for sure... it didn't help that I ended up doing it all twice, but that's another story. I used intersecting lines, erasing parts outside of the stripes and painting the regions inside. It didn't take as long as it may appear though - Sketchup has a nifty keyboard shortcut for repeating an action X times. So, I would place a region then copy-move the lines x 20 to fill up a stripe in one shot. I've used other modeling tools like Blender, Milkshape, and some other freebees which are more powerful than Sketchup, but I tend to get bogged down in the polygon-oriented process of those tools.

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Well, I'd vote for the latter - use some sort of hollow cut and spray paint. But it's also likely that I'll turn to some kind of factory for help. They manufacture panels and they have the right silk skin equipement. Allegedly it doesn't cost much, I'm gonna have more information when I come back. Gotta go.

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IFF Panel

 

IFF_Panel.png

 

You may be wondering why I didn't include slots for the thumb wheels. That's because I bought these BCD switches instead.

 

You also may be wondering why I'm bothering to make the IFF panel at all, because apparently it will not be simulated in DCS. I'm going to use it mainly for the civilian modes (3 A and C), because in FSX (and maybe XPlane) I will need some way to select the transponder code. I can also use the switches for another purpose, such as toggling miscellaneous simulator options.

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I was thinking about these type of thumb and scroll selectors recently and was wondering whether it could actually be better to have them as digital systems. Ie use a 7 segment display, and two momentary push button switches. That way you can easily have your electronics reset them to default at game-start. I'm not sure whether mission designers can code in the frequencies for radios etc and the game can pass those out on LUA?

 

Just my 2 cents :)

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With a civilian transponder, the numbers only go from 0 to 7. IDK how the military ones are set up.

I only respond to that little mechanical voice that says "Terrain! Terrain! Pull Up! Pull Up!"

 

Who can say what is impossible, for the dream of yesterday is the hope of today and the reality of tomorrow.

-Robert Goddard

 

"A hybrid. A car for enthusiasts of armpit hair and brown rice." -Jeremy Clarkson

 

"I swear by my pretty floral bonet, I will end you." -Mal from Firefly

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Hi y2kiah, I found some dealers who are offering silkskin services for panels. The yellow stripes won't be a problem for them. What bothers me is they can't paint the edges of the panels. I guess I'll paint the edges for myself at some point, either before or after handing over the rest to them. I'll keep looking for more options.

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I wonder if the game will treat you special with 7500 radio failure. 7600 hijacked. 7700 shit hit the fan. Emergency...

 

You mean 7600 = radio failure- you dont want to mix those 2 up! :)


Edited by Kaiza
[url=http://www.aef-hq.com.au/aef4/forumdisplay.php?262-Digital-Combat-Simulator][SIGPIC]http://img856.imageshack.us/img856/2500/a10161sqnsignitureedite.png[/SIGPIC][/url]
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Lol. Word... other way around. I can see it now. ATC sees a single seat A10 hijacked. SHOOT IT DOWN! It stopped talking to us.

 

I think it should be known that I post on the forums off my phone. I make a lot of errors this way.


Edited by Krebs20

[sIGPIC][/sIGPIC]

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I read a story once where a student pilot was asked to "squawk altitude", or set his transponder to reply with his aircraft's altitude. Instead his put his actual altitude in the transponder: 7500 feet! :lol:

I only respond to that little mechanical voice that says "Terrain! Terrain! Pull Up! Pull Up!"

 

Who can say what is impossible, for the dream of yesterday is the hope of today and the reality of tomorrow.

-Robert Goddard

 

"A hybrid. A car for enthusiasts of armpit hair and brown rice." -Jeremy Clarkson

 

"I swear by my pretty floral bonet, I will end you." -Mal from Firefly

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You may be wondering why I didn't include slots for the thumb wheels. That's because I bought these BCD switches instead.

 

You also may be wondering why I'm bothering to make the IFF panel at all, because apparently it will not be simulated in DCS. I'm going to use it mainly for the civilian modes (3 A and C), because in FSX (and maybe XPlane) I will need some way to select the transponder code. I can also use the switches for another purpose, such as toggling miscellaneous simulator options.

 

Great work y2kiah :thumbup:

Will use my IFF squawk for same reason. Luckily found a 6 bit block of 0-7 digits BCDs thumbwheels on the surplus market but not the correct type though. Is a seated a bit to low beneath the lightpan though but will do. Looks that you may run in to same "issue" also.

 

Judging from the earlier posts in your thread I guess you will use a PIC setup to interface the panel? I'll tied em up to IOCard mastercards inputs directly and it consumes quite a number of inputs and had to split the IFFs input into dual blocks to cover all the other switches etc. Will use SIOC to decode the settings.

 

For the quiz stated in the thread of why making a quad that a specific sim SW doesn't support.. I'd say why not :-) There's no boundaries for how the use unsupported switches. I plan to for example to have the circuit breaker panel beneath the TISL for general purpose options

 

Keep up the good work and keeps the pics coming. Love the quality of your work

 

Cheers

/Gus

- - - -

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Hi y2kiah, despite that you said "The actual material will be a single piece of acrylic", I'm still a little confused about the apparant sandwich configuration seen in your first picture at the top. Because it looks like it has back lighting, and that there could be an EL sheet between the top and bottom layers.

 

I've only asked this question because those six srews along both edges won't have any effect with the top and middle layer unless they are glued to the bottom layer.

 

Or did I figure it wrong and they were one solid piece of acrylic. Were you actually going to attach an EL sheet underneath the entire piece?

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Great work y2kiah :thumbup:

Looks that you may run in to same "issue" also.

 

Judging from the earlier posts in your thread I guess you will use a PIC setup to interface the panel?

 

Yeah the screenshot I took shows a 1/8" rim which might be a bit too much to use those controls. I'll try to get a little closer to the surface when machining to help that, maybe leave 1/16" thick?

 

I'm also thinking about throwing together a custom design for the IFF panel where the top half is basically replaced by a trackball and keyboard number keys to be used for communication and mouse control in DCS. That way, my hand won't have to move far from the throttle for communication, and my right hand won't have to leave the stick. Just a thought at this point, I think it would actually be better if there was some way to communicate right from the hotas.

 

I'll be using arduino for my pit, with the wiznet ethernet shield. I'm also thinking about using eagle to design an input matrix shield for the arduino that will help me save some pins. The software that I'm currently writing will allow you to designate pins for certain types of controls and pass those commands to the card via ethernet (with the wiznet shield) or serial. Then, the card will start reporting events for the enabled pins based on the type of control you say is attached. I'll package the software up as an open source arduino library, so it can be used by any interested pit builders.

 

Keep your progress pictures coming too Gus, your work is an inspiration for sure.

 

Hi y2kiah, despite that you said "The actual material will be a single piece of acrylic", I'm still a little confused about the apparant sandwich configuration seen in your first picture at the top. Because it looks like it has back lighting, and that there could be an EL sheet between the top and bottom layers.

 

I've only asked this question because those six srews along both edges won't have any effect with the top and middle layer unless they are glued to the bottom layer.

 

Or did I figure it wrong and they were one solid piece of acrylic. Were you actually going to attach an EL sheet underneath the entire piece?

 

Ah I see how my picture makes it confusing. I actually only separate into 2 layers for the model, because I have to cut front and back of the light panel differently, and designing 2 layers makes it easier for me to export for tool pathing. I still plan on one piece of 1/4" acrylic for the light plates, and flip it over for the backside cuts. The EL sheet will sit between the light plate and metal back plate, and the screws to hold the light plate on will go all the way through.

 

Do you have any more leads for making the panels? You got me thinking about that option and it's worth looking into I think, especially if they can do engraving with laser. My tests engraving with my machine turned out adequate, but it could certainly be better if done with professional equipment. If I look very close I can see some squiggles in the lettering, probably from vibration in the machine - but from an arms length away, it looks good enough, for me at least.

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Ah I see how my picture makes it confusing. I actually only separate into 2 layers for the model, because I have to cut front and back of the light panel differently, and designing 2 layers makes it easier for me to export for tool pathing. I still plan on one piece of 1/4" acrylic for the light plates, and flip it over for the backside cuts. The EL sheet will sit between the light plate and metal back plate, and the screws to hold the light plate on will go all the way through.

 

Ok, now I get it. 1/4" is pretty thick for an acrylic sheet, but considering the height of the screw head which are better off hidden beneath the surface of the panel, I'd say it's just about the right thickness. I didn't look for screws like those on purpose when I went to look for VFD the other day. But as I took a glance, it seemed difficult to find one of those screws here.

 

Do you have any more leads for making the panels? You got me thinking about that option and it's worth looking into I think, especially if they can do engraving with laser. My tests engraving with my machine turned out adequate, but it could certainly be better if done with professional equipment. If I look very close I can see some squiggles in the lettering, probably from vibration in the machine - but from an arms length away, it looks good enough, for me at least.

 

So far, the best way I can come up with is screen printing. It requires a stencil and I don't think you have to DIY. Many companies from many countries provide such services. I talked to a local company, and they told me that they could do just about anything on the acrylic surface for a pretty low price and minor quantities. As I stated a couple of replies back, the only thing that bothers me is that they don't print around the edges of the panels. If you print them yourself, you'd get some of those ink, at least a similar type, and try to get it done for yourself, I guess it will be difficult to smoothly blend your ink with the perimeter of the previously printed area. I'll keep looking.

 

 

Alright, there's another issue I'd like to seek some help about. Has anyone heard about or felt the CDU buttons for himself? How do they feel like when pressed? Talking about the feeling on the fingertip, is it something a little bit tender like the silicone buttons on a TV remote control, or something brittle like the left/right mouse buttons. And I'd consider a regular keyboard as something in between - silicone inside but gives you a clear feeling of up or down position. I'd like to mimic this characteristic when I build my own CDU.

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DZUS or not to DZUS

 

Can someone explain why I seem to be having so much trouble with this?

 

I've seen on this and several posts people simply saying "the DZUS fasteners". DZUS is a company, and they make thousands of quick connects, none of which seem to me to match the pictures I've seen of military panels (including the ones on this thread).

 

Does anyone have the actual part # for these fasteners, or better yet a link to a supplier?

 

Thanks guys. Pit building is an amazing hobby!

Custom Pit 476 Recruiting

 

i9-12900KF, 32 GB DDR5, Gigabyte Aorus Z690 Master, Gigabyte RTX 2080 Ti, 1TB Sabrent Roket 4+ 2x750GB RAID-0, TrackIR 5 /w clip, CRG9 49” Curved Ultrawide Flight Display+15" Touchscreen+17" Gauges display, Thrustmaster Warthog+7.5cm, Saitek Pro Combat Pedals, Streamdeck, Butt Kicker and pneumatic G-Seat

 

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KY58 and CDU-900

 

ky58_panel.png

 

cdu-900.png

 

I made the CDU light plate 3/16" thick, so I will have to bind 2 layers of acrylic together. This is so the circuit board holding all of the tactile buttons can be embedded within the light plate. The buttons on the far right and left of the panel would cause it not to fit between the rails. There are two other alternatives if embedding the circuit doesn't work out. 1) I can cut the rails in those particular spots to allow to panel to fit, or 2) I can move the buttons inward until they wouldn't cause a problem. Also, back lighting the buttons will be impossible, so I was thinking about side lighting them, and running EL wire through the hollowed out light plate to achieve that. Anybody think of a better way?

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I've been playing around with side emitting LED's for panel lighting. They have a very low profile and are much brighter than the EL wire I also experimented with. You can purchase them separately and install them directly on your circuit board or go with the strip lighting which can be split into 3 LED sections and run in either series, parallel, or a combination of both.

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Does anyone have the actual part # for these fasteners, or better yet a link to a supplier?

 

Hi Puma. Getting original "dzuz" in Nato MIL standard (sorry, got no partnumber or supplier except the manufacturer itself) will cost you a small fortune due you need the rails also. Both turns up on ebay from time to time.

Another option is to use replicas that can be found at more reasonable prices

Two examples:

http://temp.aviationsimulationgroupcom.officelive.com/Dzus.aspx

http://www.opencockpits.com/catalog/replica-fastener-dzus-pintado-p-212.html?language=en

 

Anybody think of a better way?
Nopp. Only way would be using miniature surface mounted microswiches on a PCB embedded in the bottom of lightpanel itself. Having a lightpanel depth of 7-8 mm might leave space for both PCB, the switch and buttons. I'll go for gutting the home made rails though and using regular key mechanics :)

 

Very good job on the CDU. You have/will manufacture the buttons also ?

Any chance of getting a copy of these or a link to manufacturer if that's the case ?

 

Cheers

Gus


Edited by Duckling

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