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Differential Braking


Thomasew

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I have tried mapping an axis to the toe brake, however I have to say that having mapped a digital button works a hell lot better on my joystick. It is a paradox but a digital button resembles also a lot more how the system operates RL. If you press a foot for a brake it will never be as quick and precise as when you operate the lever with your hand IRL (I tested it), therefore in my opinion putting the brake axis on a toe brake is counter productive and makes things much more difficult than in real life. I can taxi L-39 with digital brake absolutely precisely without problems, with the toe brake I am not able to do it at all, or very sloppy. Of course the best solution would be to have an analogue brake lever on the stick.

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  • 2 months later...

VJS161_Fire's suggestion sure worked for me! And that nose wheel thing was making me crazy. Also, now I finally have a use for that X-52 Pro slider. :)

1771356600_DCSL-39WheelBrakeConfig.thumb.jpg.0d4c84da3757ded58d3b23798f4a25e3.jpg

Windows 10 64bit / Intel Core i7-5820K Haswell-E 6-Core 3.30 GHz / 32GB RAM / GeForce GTX 1080 8GB / Dell UltraSharp 27 QHD U2715H 2560x1440 / Saitek X52 Pro Flight System / TrackIR 5

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I have tried mapping an axis to the toe brake, however I have to say that having mapped a digital button works a hell lot better on my joystick. It is a paradox but a digital button resembles also a lot more how the system operates RL. If you press a foot for a brake it will never be as quick and precise as when you operate the lever with your hand IRL (I tested it), therefore in my opinion putting the brake axis on a toe brake is counter productive and makes things much more difficult than in real life. I can taxi L-39 with digital brake absolutely precisely without problems, with the toe brake I am not able to do it at all, or very sloppy. Of course the best solution would be to have an analogue brake lever on the stick.

 

If you read the extract about how the braking is applied after the rudder bar is pushed, you will see that using minimal application of the brake lever is what modulates the steering. If you use a digital brake actuator, it is purely 100% off and 100% on. Using an analogue axis, wherever it may be - the slider that replaces the friction control on the Warthog HOTAS throttle for example, or the toe brakes if you have a good set of pedals - gives you a lot more control over the brake pressure applied, from 0% all the way up to 100% in as many increments as the resolution of the axis allows.

 

No way will you get the same level of control using a digital input.

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If you read the extract about how the braking is applied after the rudder bar is pushed, you will see that using minimal application of the brake lever is what modulates the steering. If you use a digital brake actuator, it is purely 100% off and 100% on. Using an analogue axis, wherever it may be - the slider that replaces the friction control on the Warthog HOTAS throttle for example, or the toe brakes if you have a good set of pedals - gives you a lot more control over the brake pressure applied, from 0% all the way up to 100% in as many increments as the resolution of the axis allows.

 

No way will you get the same level of control using a digital input.

 

I completely agree that you will never get the same level of control using a digital input like an analogue. However even when you use digital input, it does not work like no brake (0) - brake (100). When you press the digital brake it takes some 2 seconds to go from 0 - 100. So if you briefly tap the digital control you can simulate light press on the analogue brake and it goes to around 20%, if you hold the digital brake longer it simulates full push. I can steer the simulated L-39 this way absolutely precisely without any problems probably it is even more comfortable for me than having it mapped on a toe brake. Having it mapped on an analogue toe brake differs much more from real life than having it mapped on a digital button on the stick, as far as my RL experience goes.

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Interesting about having to turn rudder so hard initially. I use the handle on warthog stick for my brake seems to work ok :)

 

Yeah... me too! :music_whistling::thumbup:

 

I had a spare pot-meter in my desk drawer. I bolted it under the handgrip, soldered some wires and spring-loaded the pinky paddle. Now it works exactly like the brakes on the L-39 (or the other russian aircraft:))

 

1sy681.jpg


Edited by 1.JaVA_Platypus

Happy Flying! :pilotfly:

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