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Building a new rig, any advice?


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I have a quick question that some of you may be able to answer: I have installed the Corsair H105 on the MSI Z370 gaming pro as follows:

 

- Radiator fans attached (both, via splitter, 4 pins) to CPU_fan1

- Pump (3 pins) connected to pump_fun1, as it seemed the logical choice.

 

In the BIOS I saw that pump_fun1 is set to PWM, which needs 4 pins. Being that the corsair cooler pump is attached to this via 3 pins, the pump is always spinning at high speed (1800rpm), which seems to be the right course of action according to a number of references. However, passing to DC enables me to control the pump fan speed as function of the CPU temp. So, my question: what do you guys do? Do you modulate the speed of the pump, or do you leave it at 12V, thus at max speed all the time? I have tried to switch to DC, but it makes quite a racket everytime it spins up (from 0 to 800rpm, the minimum speed other than zero), whereas it's dead quiet at 1800 rpm :huh:


Edited by gabgio

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but it makes quite a racket everytime it spins up (from 0 to 800rpm, the minimum speed other than zero), whereas it's dead quiet at 1800 rpm :huh:

 

'racket' @ 800 RPM?

That seems not right, worn bearings?

 

Try another fan / buy a replacement PWM fan

 

Perhaps try to grease you fan, Google 'repair CPU fan' see if that makes a difference

| VR goggles | Autopilot panel | Headtracker | TM HOTAS | G920 HOTAS | MS FFB 2 | Throttle Quadrants | 8600K | GTX 1080 | 64GB RAM| Win 10 x64 | Voicerecognition | 50" UHD TV monitor | 40" 1080p TV monitor | 2x 24" 1080p side monitors | 24" 1080p touchscreen |

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I have a quick question that some of you may be able to answer: I have installed the Corsair H105 on the MSI Z370 gaming pro as follows:

 

- Radiator fans attached (both, via splitter, 4 pins) to CPU_fan1

- Pump (3 pins) connected to pump_fun1, as it seemed the logical choice.

 

In the BIOS I saw that pump_fun1 is set to PWM, which needs 4 pins. Being that the corsair cooler pump is attached to this via 3 pins, the pump is always spinning at high speed (1800rpm), which seems to be the right course of action according to a number of references. However, passing to DC enables me to control the pump fan speed as function of the CPU temp. So, my question: what do you guys do? Do you modulate the speed of the pump, or do you leave it at 12V, thus at max speed all the time? I have tried to switch to DC, but it makes quite a racket everytime it spins up (from 0 to 800rpm, the minimum speed other than zero), whereas it's dead quiet at 1800 rpm :huh:

 

H1xx = pump full speed 24/7/365 you never clock it down, it would kill your setup.

 

You need a lot more cooling mass, radiator + fluid, to work the pump up + down.

The missing reservoir container and limited radiator are not suited to clock the pump down, you may turn the fans up n down but never the pump on all corsair or equivalent. They live and die on circulation rather than volume and passive cooling.

 

Even in a DIY loop with lots of radiator surface(s) you would keep the pump always running at it's highest settings where you still cannot hear it and control the fans

as needed to adjust cooling power vs. noise pollution. The goal is a high-flow system with low to medium fans, not a slow pump and and fans spinning like mad, in simple words.

The AIO systems are more limited as they are usually smaller in radiator surface, liquid volume and control options. Tho they do work, I run a H110 for years in my son's computer, it now cools my recent 7700k at 5G with ease, it's louder than my DIY but it does the job good enough to recommend it, tho I would never buy a AIO again but do a DIY, small first, but it can always be made bigger, better and quieter.

 

 

Actually, I never tune my own personal pump, it has a screwdriver rotary to control the Hz, say rpm wise from 85-105%. I let it at factory default and let it run. It runs for 3 years now.

When I hear the pump go like this "clack....clack.....clack....and so on" THEN I know it is time to take the CPU block apart and clean out the fins, they are clogged then, I have done this twice now, every 1.x years and I must admit, last time my temp dropped a whoppin' 10°C on the GPU while mining after cleaning...and me idiot was blaming Asus for too little "flow" in their Poseidon, it was my own damn lazyness not cleaning the block after 6-9 month, not 12-15 month as I did, that is far to long. Even that I use destilled water only, work clean, flush with destilled water, add knife tip of citric acid to fight fungus, there is always some greenspan that accumulates in the presence of copper and finally clocks the small fins, causing the pump to ache and my GPU to melt ;(

That is the responsibility of the DIY driver, AIO work until they fail and finito. DIY may run longer but does need maintenance from time to time.

 

My delidder is about to arrive, I will have to take the block off again to delid the CPU and will also open the block again and check how much has accumulated with a fresh filling after 6-8 weeks. Curios to see the inside actually. After that cleaning, the temps are so low again due to high-flow "again" that delidding is nonsense for my 5G use, I will still do it but actually, cool enough, temps are between 28-41°C wile mining on the CPU, cant complain at all.

 

 

Lotsa talk, simple answer, let it run full bore, factory default. You may change the fans if the original Corsair's are too loud, mine on the H110 were tbh.

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Gigabyte Aorus X570S Master - Ryzen 5900X - Gskill 64GB 3200/CL14@3600/CL14 - Asus 1080ti EK-waterblock - 4x Samsung 980Pro 1TB - 1x Samsung 870 Evo 1TB - 1x SanDisc 120GB SSD - Heatkiller IV - MoRa3-360LT@9x120mm Noctua F12 - Corsair AXi-1200 - TiR5-Pro - Warthog Hotas - Saitek Combat Pedals - Asus PG278Q 27" QHD Gsync 144Hz - Corsair K70 RGB Pro - Win11 Pro/Linux - Phanteks Evolv-X 

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H1xx = pump full speed 24/7/365 you never clock it down, it would kill your setup.

 

...

 

Lotsa talk, simple answer, let it run full bore, factory default. You may change the fans if the original Corsair's are too loud, mine on the H110 were tbh.

 

Brilliant, now it's clear! It's my first experience with liquid cooling, I wanted to be sure about the setting. Having that massive radiator+water pipes suspended above and around the CPU is still a bit unsettling :)

No problem with the hissing of the fans. Plus, I always play/work with headphones, and nobody to bother around.

 

I have finished installing all hw/sw, still with a temporary borrowed PSU. The ordered (and paid :mad:) Seasonic is out of stock and gods knows when it'll be available again..

Running a few stress tests at the moment.. max temp 60 deg with CPU @4.7 for 5 minutes. I won't be exceeding that, PSU is kind of old and not very powerful.

The component that amazed me the most so far is the M.2 ssd drive. Jeez, that thing is FAST! From BIOS screen to WIN 10 desktop in less than 4 sec (full re-start, no resuming).

If I may, what is your sw of choice for monitoring the hw?

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HWinfo, no doubt, one of the best, and it's totally free, full featured.

 

4 secs...ahhhh.. disable "Fast Boot" in Bios under "BOOT SETTINGS" and report your time again ;)

 

 

Edit: I heavily recommend to disable FAST BOOT on every PC when you work the hardware or overclock, that is crying for trouble if you keepit on.

 

You'd have to pull the plug to get in Bios, no Bios if you dont pull the plug prior !! Also no full hw init, leave that BS turned OFFFFFFF is my best advice.

 

who cares if 4 or 12 seconds. Go through the fastboot trouble once and you know why


Edited by BitMaster

Gigabyte Aorus X570S Master - Ryzen 5900X - Gskill 64GB 3200/CL14@3600/CL14 - Asus 1080ti EK-waterblock - 4x Samsung 980Pro 1TB - 1x Samsung 870 Evo 1TB - 1x SanDisc 120GB SSD - Heatkiller IV - MoRa3-360LT@9x120mm Noctua F12 - Corsair AXi-1200 - TiR5-Pro - Warthog Hotas - Saitek Combat Pedals - Asus PG278Q 27" QHD Gsync 144Hz - Corsair K70 RGB Pro - Win11 Pro/Linux - Phanteks Evolv-X 

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HWinfo, no doubt, one of the best, and it's totally free, full featured.

 

4 secs...ahhhh.. disable "Fast Boot" in Bios under "BOOT SETTINGS" and report your time again ;)

 

 

Edit: I heavily recommend to disable FAST BOOT on every PC when you work the hardware or overclock, that is crying for trouble if you keepit on.

 

You'd have to pull the plug to get in Bios, no Bios if you dont pull the plug prior !! Also no full hw init, leave that BS turned OFFFFFFF is my best advice.

 

who cares if 4 or 12 seconds. Go through the fastboot trouble once and you know why

 

Yep, it was off. Main reason was to have access to the BIOS, indeed (I did experience the problem you mention a couple of weeks ago, after a wobbly windows update/patch on a friend's laptop.. had to crash it everytime to get into the bios). And that is why I specified from bios screen to desktop: it hangs a couple of seconds there :D

Installing HWinfo right now.. Funny thing, Intel utility and MSI utility give widely different results. In primis with the RAM speed (3200 on one, 1600 on the other??).

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Haha, RAM speed...OK..learn to accept different naming conventions for one and the same core-value they all actually talk about.

 

Some apps call out a DDR4-3200 as 1600MHz, that is totally fine, if you know it refers to the base frequency/devider, which is actually 800MHz DDR, times 4 for DDR4 = 3200MHz

 

It gets even worse when it comes to GDDR5 VRAM, this is sometimes a big ? what base they refer to as I cannot find a common base for some values. I run my GDDR5x at 12.000 MHz and some values in certain apps are misleading. YOu have to work your way through there with different apps to counter-proof your guessing WTF they actually wanna tell you.

 

4 sec. WOW...I have far too many things connected I guess to compete here, mine needs a lot of time to even go through Bios until Win has a chance to load. The Bios is still anything but fast and stable, I hope this gets better. My RAM settings force it to spend some time scrambling and testing before it beeps and posts, then another 5 seconds until it gets to win10. Win10 is actually maybe a 4 sec thing, but 20 sec to get there.

 

My old Z270/7700k was the same when it was new, with better bios' it got damn fast, then it went ultra smooth and became boring, it just ran smooth like butter.That's when I hand it over usually, ready to use. My son has it now. ..and I have again something to work on, somerhing that is RAW, untamed, like a girl, always doing stuff that lets you pull hair bit you love her.

When you own here, it get's boring. This new built is again as expected, raw and unfinished.

 

I hate it & I love it. When it just works, it's boring :D

Gigabyte Aorus X570S Master - Ryzen 5900X - Gskill 64GB 3200/CL14@3600/CL14 - Asus 1080ti EK-waterblock - 4x Samsung 980Pro 1TB - 1x Samsung 870 Evo 1TB - 1x SanDisc 120GB SSD - Heatkiller IV - MoRa3-360LT@9x120mm Noctua F12 - Corsair AXi-1200 - TiR5-Pro - Warthog Hotas - Saitek Combat Pedals - Asus PG278Q 27" QHD Gsync 144Hz - Corsair K70 RGB Pro - Win11 Pro/Linux - Phanteks Evolv-X 

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:D I understand the feeling. I am kind of the same with cars, that's why I got an Alfa :lol:

 

Thanks for all the help! By the time the psu comes I'll bother all of you again: OCing time!

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All up and running (PSU still wandering about, spare one in use at the moment).

Finished downloading 2.5 a couple of hours ago, and ... the awesomeness!! Not a single stutter, all max out, no major problems (some glitches here and there, nothing major), smooth, smooth and again smooth! What a great time to get back into simming!

 

[except for multiplayer.. did not manage to fly in any of the servers.. I'll look into this in the weekend, could be smt related to the 2.5 beta, could me my incompetence (never tried ML before) ]

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Glad to hear that !

 

MP seems to be bugged, mem leak or something else. Maybe hold off with MP so you dont have a bad 1st impression. I fly MP only ever since. Since you can set control in MP now, I hardly ever start SP, if, then for testing something.

 

Yeah, the damn Postal Service. I wish my new Keyboard was here but no luck, gotta run to a friend and get one, cant wait till Monday for the replacement to arrive.

 

Call yourself happy to have a spare PSU ! I need to work my rig via RDP, not a single USB keyboard in da house :( unbelievable but true


Edited by BitMaster

Gigabyte Aorus X570S Master - Ryzen 5900X - Gskill 64GB 3200/CL14@3600/CL14 - Asus 1080ti EK-waterblock - 4x Samsung 980Pro 1TB - 1x Samsung 870 Evo 1TB - 1x SanDisc 120GB SSD - Heatkiller IV - MoRa3-360LT@9x120mm Noctua F12 - Corsair AXi-1200 - TiR5-Pro - Warthog Hotas - Saitek Combat Pedals - Asus PG278Q 27" QHD Gsync 144Hz - Corsair K70 RGB Pro - Win11 Pro/Linux - Phanteks Evolv-X 

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ahah I feel you!

PSU is actually a Seasonic problem, they're having troubles to keep up with demand (try searching for >1000W PSU :( ). I wonder whether things will get better after last week cryptocurrencies half-crash, at least momentarily..

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... my understanding is that a 2x kit or 4x one won't make a difference.

 

I would expect a more stable memory OC with 2x sticks on a Z370.

Regards, Django.

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I would expect a more stable memory OC with 2x sticks on a Z370.

 

My

2500K @ 4.5 GHz and 1866 mem, BLK @ 100, had to underclock DDR3 to 1600

 

my

8600K @ 4.7 GHz and 3200 DDR4 mem, BLK @ 100, slightest OC (3333) won't boot (stable at factory 3200)


Edited by majapahit

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I can get my XMP-3600 to max 3300 before the board acts up with all sorts of BSOD's and 1min boot-beep or longer.

 

3200 is the highest troublefree I can go, even with this new Bios of 2 days ago, vers. 0607.

 

Z370 is not a good RAM Overclocker, heck, even XMP still sux for many.

 

This Spectre&Meltdown BS tied many devs to that problem, less time for other things. That is the real damage everybody takes, devs are tied to fixing Intel's BS !. No time for better XMP-Bios but fix the Spectre hole, THANK YOU INTEL :(

Gigabyte Aorus X570S Master - Ryzen 5900X - Gskill 64GB 3200/CL14@3600/CL14 - Asus 1080ti EK-waterblock - 4x Samsung 980Pro 1TB - 1x Samsung 870 Evo 1TB - 1x SanDisc 120GB SSD - Heatkiller IV - MoRa3-360LT@9x120mm Noctua F12 - Corsair AXi-1200 - TiR5-Pro - Warthog Hotas - Saitek Combat Pedals - Asus PG278Q 27" QHD Gsync 144Hz - Corsair K70 RGB Pro - Win11 Pro/Linux - Phanteks Evolv-X 

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