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DCS cameras, views and video recording


Bucic

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I am brand new to DCS and the whole screenshot and recording world. I saw a video online where the perso had recorded a mission. One of the scenes was them shooting off a harm and then shortly after going to a view of the Sam sites and watching them explode one by one. Any thoughts on how to reproduce? I know I have to save track first. What would I need to record? Anything free? I’m just doing it for fun, not professional or anything like that. Just for my friends and I.

Cycle through objects in a particular view e.g. press F8 until you see the unit of your interest.

Ctrl+F11 to enable free camera and position it

Press F2 to watch yourself in external view

Launch the missile

Press F11 and you'll be taken right back to the camera position from step 2.

 

More and more people use recording built-in in within their graphics driver suite e.g. Geforce Experience.

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  • 2 months later...
Just as an addendum to the info in this thread, I did a video on the techniques I use for filming external footage:

 

qDjDMvnVzYc[/y outube]

Added to the OP. Thanks for sharing! I myself wanted to ask how the hell do you do those shots :)

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Track replay reliability is dependent on the module, what you do with it, and your system specs. AI tends to do strange things because their control inputs are not recorded and replayed: They are still making real-time AI decisions during the replay.

 

As a general rule, multiplayer server tracks have the highest reliability, at the cost of animation jerkiness and fewer external view capabilities (Shift+F4 view is disabled, for example).

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  • 1 month later...

Question for you camera view gurus.

 

When I use the LCtrl+F3 padlock view, and use TrackIR external views to pan the camera and make more realistic framing, the padlock view constantly tries to fight my TrackIR and snap the camera to the aircraft centerpoint. This makes for some choppy filming and it's incredibly annoying. My TrackIR profile has no snap-to-center setting that I can find, and neither does DCS. It also appears I'm the only one having problems with this, so I don't know what's going on.

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Question for you camera view gurus.

 

When I use the LCtrl+F3 padlock view, and use TrackIR external views to pan the camera and make more realistic framing, the padlock view constantly tries to fight my TrackIR and snap the camera to the aircraft centerpoint. This makes for some choppy filming and it's incredibly annoying. My TrackIR profile has no snap-to-center setting that I can find, and neither does DCS. It also appears I'm the only one having problems with this, so I don't know what's going on.

Wild guesses incoming.

Have you tried:

1. disabling camera jitter and floating

2. cycle through camera pivot points

?

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Jitter is disabled, floating is enabled. What are the camera pivot points for the free camera?

Oh, the free camera. A dud on my part then. I thought your problem manifests also in fixed external views like F2. I'm at a loss then, sorry. Are you out of ideas for fault isolation? The problem just occurs with TrackIR connected and doesn't without TrackIR?

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Yeah, it's only with my TrackIR (OpenTrack). I see it happen sometimes in F2 view as well though. It seems like OpenTrack wants to center my vertical positioning even with no input from me, but I have turned off all deadzones in my tracking profile, so I don't know what the deal is. I wonder if there's a headtracking lua file or something in DCS itself that defines a center-point or deadzone?

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Yeah, it's only with my TrackIR (OpenTrack). I see it happen sometimes in F2 view as well though. It seems like OpenTrack wants to center my vertical positioning even with no input from me, but I have turned off all deadzones in my tracking profile, so I don't know what the deal is. I wonder if there's a headtracking lua file or something in DCS itself that defines a center-point or deadzone?

 

If you use "OpenTrack" I could try to drop one of my profiles to you, or take screenshots of settings.

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Settings/curves would help immensely. I could have sworn I disabled all deadzones but something's wonky.

 

Hello again, I'm sorry that there is a "Russian" interface, but I think you will not get confused.

 

First here is my daily flight profile, I use smoothed dead zones and the "Accela" filter.

The same camera settings, just in

 

0YsIXnB.jpg

 

4ioJ7vB.jpg

 

Yaw

dCX31p8.jpg

 

Pitch

ld7b2lE.jpg

 

Roll

EQudn0J.jpg

 

etc..........

 

Next, here is my profile for shooting video

 

For this profile, I advise you to use the filter "EWMA"

 

Y5WYQUA.jpg

 

rlAZy1g.jpg

 

This filter is simple and quick to set up, and most importantly very effective.

With these parameters you can make the inertia of the camera movement, make it either sharper and more rigid, or smooth and inert, it smoothes all the notches when you turn the head smoothly, it helps a lot. You can also add "curves".

As for the settings of the axes, I don’t use the dead zones anymore, but you can also experiment with the saturation of the axes themselves, depends on what you need, smoother camera movement, for example, "during strong zoom" or more sharp and saturated movement, for example, the span of the camera next to the plane.

 

Yaw

QgL5QcS.jpg

 

Pitch

vhvwmvi.jpg

 

Roll

91QZFJ0.jpg

 

X

z3Cb5yS.jpg

 

etc. at your discretion

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Asymmetric settings are disabled, but if I don't create a deadzone with the curves my camera is extremely twitchy. OpenTrack won't stabilize it. I've tried adjusting the threshold, the EWMA filter curves, and the mapping curves, but unless I give it a small deadzone it's twitchy as hell. The problem with the deadzone is that if I pan 180 degrees, it will slow down or briefly stop right at the 90-degree point, which screws up my tracking of moving objects.

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Asymmetric settings are disabled, but if I don't create a deadzone with the curves my camera is extremely twitchy. OpenTrack won't stabilize it. I've tried adjusting the threshold, the EWMA filter curves, and the mapping curves, but unless I give it a small deadzone it's twitchy as hell. The problem with the deadzone is that if I pan 180 degrees, it will slow down or briefly stop right at the 90-degree point, which screws up my tracking of moving objects.

 

This is a matter of habit. As I said, you can adjust not only the filter but also the saturation and intensity of the axis itself. You can adjust the axis so that it is very fast and sharp, but the full deflection of your head corresponded to a slight rotation of the camera. Or vice versa, so that it rotates smoothly and at a greater angle, there you can tune in as you please and as you like. Sometimes it is useful to keep the object in the padlock, press the centering of the camera, and already work with your head, or follow your head regardless of the object, but it works more on the ground, but if you are shooting the plane at high angles, use the padlock.

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Those settings still do not reduce the jitter when my head is perfectly still. This makes it impossible to get a stable shot, which is a big deal for static scenes. The only way to reduce the jitter is by putting a complete deadzone in my yaw/pitch curves. Even when padlocking, there's enough jitter to completely ruin a zoomed-in shot because the movement is amplified.

 

Q8WPTYqvW0U

 

My head was not moving when I filmed this. Opentrack was detecting minor (nonexistent) movements in my LEDs.

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Those settings still do not reduce the jitter when my head is perfectly still. This makes it impossible to get a stable shot, which is a big deal for static scenes. The only way to reduce the jitter is by putting a complete deadzone in my yaw/pitch curves. Even when padlocking, there's enough jitter to completely ruin a zoomed-in shot because the movement is amplified.

 

Q8WPTYqvW0U

 

My head was not moving when I filmed this. Opentrack was detecting minor (nonexistent) movements in my LEDs.

 

This is very strange, in fact, these parameters create a curve for the dead zone. If you stand up the dead zone manually, you will have a step in the center position, and the camera passing through the center will bump into this notch. With my settings, the camera moves smoothly and does not swing by itself, everything depends on the smoothness of the movement of the head). In this case, I would like to see the recording of your window with diodes, maybe they uvas flicker strongly, and also tell me which camera do you use?

 

S8Yqc6b.jpg

yGYsDYT.jpg

35cWuSs.jpg

 

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I tried the exact curves but still had the same jitter. Here's my OpenTrack LED image:

 

9EKcbpA_dL0

 

I can't change the LED size or threshold settings without the jitter either becoming worse, or the LEDs not being detected. I use a Life Cam VX-1000 with the IR filter removed and a piece of exposed film acting as a visible light filter. I wonder if adding a second or third layer of exposed film will get more precise LED detection.

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I tried the exact curves but still had the same jitter. Here's my OpenTrack LED image:

 

I can't change the LED size or threshold settings without the jitter either becoming worse, or the LEDs not being detected. I use a Life Cam VX-1000 with the IR filter removed and a piece of exposed film acting as a visible light filter. I wonder if adding a second or third layer of exposed film will get more precise LED detection.

 

Then the reason is already clearer to me, I use "Sony PS3 Eye camera" and infrared diodes. Any diodes tend to flicker, if I remove the anti-aliasing parameter in the filter, my camera will also twitch, and the stronger the zoom the more appropriately the jitter will be. Another question is whether you have a focus setting on your camera lens? On the camera "Sony PS3 Eye camera" you need to try to set a lens between the two marks of the focus, although there is no fixed position, the image of the diodes becomes clearer, but it does not help to completely get rid of the jitter, the very jitter in my case smoothes the "Optrek filter" and smoothness movement I provide the setting of the axes.

 

5qhLkzd.jpg

 

vCdFxaP.jpg

 

dOImM0e.jpg

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