RomeoKilo's Pit

Well Mr Burns because it is obviously a combination

of pre & post AN/ARC 210 installation labels on one panel.

Well Mr Burns because it is obviously a combination

of pre & post AN/ARC 210 installation labels on one panel.

You have lost me, do you mean there was an AN 210 panel and it was replaced by an ARC 210 panel and RK has combined them both in one panel?

Sorry if its obvious to you but the comment means f all to me and I like to understand things.

Absolutely beautiful RomeoKilo, I dont think I have seen such a piece of art!

No Burns Pre refers to before the AnArc 210 upgrade in the A10c that added sat comms to the aircraft. Post or after the radio upgrade. There is no reason to have a toggle marked Sat in the A10C suite3 configuration.The radio and it corresponding antenna have not yet been installed.

Panels look great RK.

Personally I fail to see importance of elements that are not implemented in game. Since at the current state of the sim their purpose is solely decoration one can easily choose to omit or include anything non functional across any suite.

RomeoKilo,

quick question for you regarding those plans:

the CNC machinist I gave the drawings to tells me he has a problem in scaling the drawings to mm. Scaling with 25.4 gives holes (1/8") of 3.6mm in diameter, instead of 3.175.

Apparently the scale is 28.8 from inches to mm.

Did you find this to be the case as well?

Hum I take it this is directed at me so I will answer you this time. It appeared to me that RK is working on a replica or near replica. He seams like a nice guy and so I was trying to help him out with his home build.

Personally I fail to see importance of elements that are not implemented in game. Since at the current state of the sim their purpose is solely decoration one can easily choose to omit or include anything non functional across any suite.

RomeoKilo, I got a short question.

What kind of acrylic plate do you use for these panels?

Your markings and texts are looking so bright!

Mine become always grey.

I used Acryl, white (milk), translucence 45%.

I tested a sandwich-like system with 6mm clear Base- and 0.8 mm black/white Top-Layer. But it could run much more easy with just one layer.

Thank you in advance :)

RomeoKilo,

 

quick question for you regarding those plans:

the CNC machinist I gave the drawings to tells me he has a problem in scaling the drawings to mm. Scaling with 25.4 gives holes (1/8") of 3.6mm in diameter, instead of 3.175.

Apparently the scale is 28.8 from inches to mm.

 

Did you find this to be the case as well?

I am not sure.

I opened up Flims files myself in Coreldraw. They opened automatically in Inches- I simply changed the page settings to metric and it automatically converted it for me with no scaling issues. I edited what i wanted and saved the new files in metric format.

I sent those to my machinist and he cut them for me. He never asked any questions about scaling, i never had any issues with it and the final product was correct.

Also- I just opened my files and checked and the holes are 3.175mm.

Sorry I cant really help.

RomeoKilo, I got a short question.

What kind of acrylic plate do you use for these panels?

 

Your markings and texts are looking so bright!

Mine become always grey.

I used Acryl, white (milk), translucence 45%.

 

I tested a sandwich-like system with 6mm clear Base- and 0.8 mm black/white Top-Layer. But it could run much more easy with just one layer.

 

Thank you in advance :)

I tried an opaque white layer like you are using and had the same issue.

I now use a solid white for the top layer.

It does make back lighting more difficult but I got around that by simply using brighter LED's (and more of them).

I also recommend using a quality paint. The cheaper stuff i tried first never gave me good results.

It took me A LOT of trial and error to find the best laser method and settings to get a decent result. I could make an entire second pit from the contents of my scrap bin!:cry:

RK, so to confirm.

Top layer is solid white acrylic.

You painted it black.

Carved the lettering (which then shows the white underneath)

And lit it up from bottom with LEDs.

Considering it's a solid white acrylic, I'm assuming you didn't use a diffuser? I'll check the thread again as well.

Hansan, look into material called lasermax by rowmark. Essentially it is a styrene sheet painted black (other colors available but black/white is applicable to us). Requires somewhat more care processing with laser but provides very white lettering.

ADD:

Thanks, I'm debating getting a CNC only, CNC+Laser, or just Laser. So many choices to make! :)

But I'm starting to lean towards ZMorph. More to read up on, yay!

RK, so to confirm.

Top layer is solid white acrylic.

You painted it black.

Carved the lettering (which then shows the white underneath)

And lit it up from bottom with LEDs.

 

Considering it's a solid white acrylic, I'm assuming you didn't use a diffuser? I'll check the thread again as well.

Top layer is 3mm Acrylic- Solid White. This one is getting engraved.

Middle Layer is 3mm Acrylic- Opaque/transparent White. Acts as a diffuser.

Lower layer is 3mm Acrylic- Black. Switches and LED's.

1) Top and middle layer get cut then glued together with solvent cement. This creates one 6mm thick panel with a solid white front and an opaque white rear.

Top (Left) and Middle (Right)

2) The above then gets painted completely black. This paint covers the front, the edges and the inside of the switch holes, but the rear still has its protective paper on. The markings then get laser engraved and the paper backing gets removed.

After Paint-

And the rear after the paper is removed-

The front engraved-

3) The top layer then it gets screwed to the black lower layer that has the switches and 3mm LED's installed for back lighting.

The lower layer

And the rear of it

Front bolted on-

I'm still experimenting with the back-lighting. I had been flipping over the top layer and engraving pockets into the rear for the LEDS to sit in. I then tried simply sanding the top of the LED's flat. This diffuses them, and also makes them flush with the black panel so no pockets are required. From what i can see it doesn't change the effect at all so i may go this way from now on.

Backlit-

Also- I did try a few samples of laser max in the early days. I also have a whole bunch of panels in the reverse engraved 1mm clear stuff (which i paid someone an obscene amount of money for before i eventually bought my laser).

I decided to go the above route simply because I live in Australia so for me it is MUCH cheaper than using laser max, with what I think are similar (in some cases better) results.

Not to mention laser max was more work, requiring careful painting of the edges of the material after cutting/engraving.

The only benefit i can see for laser max would be the robustness of the finish, and for me that didn't justify the cost.

Realistically this thing will remain very well looked after. It wont be stepped on while climbing in and out or be at 30 odd thousand feet pulling 4G.

My opinion only :thumbup:

Thank you! I'd love to see the work-in-progress pictures if you have the time. Thanks again.

Top layer is 3mm Acrylic- Solid White. This one is getting engraved.

Middle Layer is 3mm Acrylic- Opaque/transparent White. Acts as a diffuser.

Lower layer is 3mm Acrylic- Black. Switches and LED's.

 

Thow at my understanding of "solid white" and "opaque white" are the same, I got a picture of what and how you do. (It seems, you are also a good photographer)

My active Layout:

Switches are mounted on the backplate.

Backlight shines thru openings (just behind the markings and signs) in the backplate. LEDs (SMD) are located on a PCB, a few millimeters below backplate.

Think, I'll follow your path using 2 x 3mm for the Lightplate.

Rework the edges of multi-layer acrylic after engraving is tricky and looks (maybe) poor.

BTW: I did a step to decrease costs:

As laser cut Aluminium Backplates are very expensive (and there remains a lot of rework deburring them), I gave Kraftplex® a try.

It's a german "invention" by Franz Betz.

This is made from wood, is very rugged, is to paint with any acrylic paint (even Spray Can) and costs much less than Aluminium. The Laser Cutter gets along with a much more smaller mashine (oh, this expression). Means: A "simple" CO2-Laser will do the Job.

First samples are promising. I will also do the housings of this magic stuff.

This is an example (the 20% finshed SAS-Panel). Backplate is 1.6mm (imp: 1/16") Kraftplex, Notification-Light (still with fake inlet of copy-paper) is made from 0.8mm (1/32") Kraftplex. Laser-Cut. Cutouts for Backlighting are marginal to be seen.

To get a relation: The holes aside of the Lamp are 2.4 mm (later M3 to mount the PCB of the Light from behind)

One drawback of Kraftplex®: It isn't water resist. So I don't recommend to build panels for a submarine of it.

I still have to give all cutting and engraving jobs away to a local or online Cutter's Shop. Had to decide between a Lathe or a Laser.

If you cut your panels of acrylic: Is there a heavy inconvinience to the neighbors? (I am a member of the mid-lower class of the society and live in a multi dwelling unit) :music_whistling:

cdu

Hi

great build, far better details than I have achieved! I would be very interested in following your CDU construction, specifically what screen and buttons you have used?

I am about the same stage as you (after 3 years) and I am wiring my panels currently, using DCS BIOS which is an absolutely inspired programme. I have at the moment a working CMSP, caution light panel, UFC, electrical, fuel, armaments.

I have not tackled the CDU at all, as the screen seems to be a problem to find.

I did chuckle at your comment about enjoying the building more than the flying, as that is how I feel at the moment.

I have also gone down the 3 projector route and recently installed 3 Benq 1070 HD beamers, the image is stunning.

Regarding the front console, does that work well with Helios, I have concerns on the depth of the panels with switches creating a 'tunnel effect' with the thickness of the wood build up?

Neal

CMSP Version 2-

Excuse the terrible phone pics. I finally found a suitable knob- just needs a coat of paint.

And Its younger brother. Artistic licence to suit my 20X2 OLED but it should get the job done.

The Radio Stack (more photos once I iron out some bugs...)-

After lots of trial and error I ended up paying a local sign writer to cut me the emergency markings for the whole pit. Cost only $30.

yowza that looks awesome!!

Looks great. The yellow striping is some sort of decal?

Hallo RK,

that is realy great work you have done. Im excited to see more.

Looks all so beautiful.

Even the switches are great stuff.

Now I know why there has been silence for such a long time.

RK: You are a hero.

Awesome panels you've made there, well done.

I would be very interested in following your CDU construction, specifically what screen and buttons you have used?

I used this 4.3 inch screen. Its obviously a bit larger than the real one so i designed my CDU to suit it. Its VGA so ill be running it as a viewport.

The buttons I cut and engraved myself from acrylic. They will sit in front of tactile switches and LED's mounted to a PCB. I have not got into designing the PCB yet...

I will definitely post in this thread once I start its construction.

Regarding the front console, does that work well with Helios, I have concerns on the depth of the panels with switches creating a 'tunnel effect' with the thickness of the wood build up?

I had the same concerns. I don't anymore :music_whistling:

The beauty of Helios is that you can move the gauges around and re size them. I overcame the 'tunnel effect' by simply off setting the gauges to where i need them, rather than lining them up with the bezels (if that makes sense).

Basically I sat in the cockpit and moved them so that from where I am sitting and viewing them, the gauge it perfectly lined up with the bezel.

I'll take some photos to explain once I get it up and running again. For some reason my profile became corrupted when i was trying to get the flaps gauge working :mad: Looks like I'll have to start it from scratch again- I haven't bothered yet.

Looks great. The yellow striping is some sort of decal?

Yes they are cut from vinyl sheet and just peel off, place them where you need them and pull the transfer paper off.

My new favorite panel-

Got all the holes drilled for the panels and all are mounted. The blanking plates are cut and mounted (all still have their protective paper on at the moment).

I also added some carry handles to each end.

Both consoles still need to be stripped back down for their final coat of paint.

I am in the process of designing the front sections for the Canopy and Seat switches. Its a nightmare...

Absolutely brilliant, one of the best build I've seen!

Those panels are super gorgeous!

Love how you expanded on CDU functionality :thumbup: