Cougar microstick replacement

Hello,

I'm planning to replace the microstick of my Cougar throttle with this:

http://www.leobodnar.com/shop/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=98_87&products_id=210

(Then I'll connect the throttle to a generic USB controller, of course, since the new microstick won't work with the cougar stick base or TUSBA. That's the easy part. I've done it already.)

That should get rid of the spiking etc. once for all. Plus IMHO the original microstick was way too imprecise to be of any usefulness anyway.

Now my problem is the following. To make the job easier, I'd like to leave the existing 6 wires inside the throttle handle and the 6-pin connector that connect them to the original microstick PCB as they are, and to solder a matching connector on the new microstick's PCB.

(Then it will not be very difficult to connect the other ends of the wires to the generic USB controller.)

I've searched online for such a small 6-pin connector. But I know nothing about electronics. So I couldn't find one because I don't know how it is normally called. I could unsolder the one on the old microstick's PCB but I'd prefer to buy a brand new one (easier).

Would anybody know, by chance, the reference / usual name of these connectors, so that I can try to find them in some online store or on Ebay ?

Thank you in advance.

 

To make the job easier, I'd like to leave the existing 6 wires inside the throttle handle and the 6-pin connector that connect them to the original microstick PCB as they are, and to solder a matching connector on the new microstick's PCB.

 

On microstick are this 6 wires connections:

1 - X axis

2 - Y axis

3 - + 5V

4 - Gnd

5 - Push Switch (T6) Row

6 - Push Switch (T6) Column

In TQS base (passive) PCB the axis wires have individual connections point, +5V and Gnd is shared with all axis +5V, Gnd.

The Push Switch (T6) wires is part of 4 x 3 * diode matrix in TQS base. This drawing give you a idea:

https://pits.108vfs.org/uriba/standalone-cougar-tqs-part-i/

This Cougar World diagram don't show micro stick axis connection... ???

All handle connections ends in the 22 (24?) plug on TQS base, what make difficult connect a different USB/HID controller there - unless cut some wires...

The 22 (24?) pin connector coming from handle:

hosting images

I guess this L.Bodnar HAT is wired in 5x1 matrix - using 6 wires:

1 Line for all 5 buttons = N, E,S,W + Push Switch

5 Row for each individual buttons

Line and Row can be swapped as convenience - this depends on new USB controller used for then.

Opera resume: will me more easy pass a new cable exclusive for this new HAT. :)

Or, depends on what USB/HID new controller you are using for this HAT, can install then inside TQS handle, eg. if a Teensy, Arduino PRO Micro fit, they are "tiny".

* A 4 x 3 matrix can manage 12 buttons, and in TQS are used only 10, but probable Cougar firmware dont see this unused 2 buttons.

BTW - If you connect this L.Bodnar HAT in the new USB/HID controller axis position he will work with 8 directions (if are not limited physically), if connect in buttons positions will work with 4 directions.

Curiosity: Use a HAT (buttons) to do the functions that usually are controlled with mini-stick (axis) in games result practical? You can test this with joystick HAT.

For connector, any with 2,54mm pitch should fit, e.g. R/C connectors, KK 254... JST...

http://www.molex.com/molex/products/family?key=kk_254_rpc_connector_system&channel=PRODUCTS&chanName=family&pageTitle=Introduction&utm_source=dpb&utm_medium=lit&utm_campaign=general&WT.mc_id=A03294

Jumper cables:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/40pcs-Dupont-Wire-Color-Jumper-Cable-2-54mm-1P-1P-Female-Female-For-Arduino-/191674518846?hash=item2ca0b10d3e:g:X78AAOSwEeFVA-sE

Thank you, I already had those drawings, I used them to figure out how to connect the USB controller to the 15-pin "VGA" cable. It worked well except that the microstick spikes. That is why I have to replace it. I never liked it anyway.

My plan was to make an intermediate cable to connect the 22-pin connector coming out of the handle and the 3-pin connector of the throttle pot to the USB controller (maybe inside the TQS base if I have enough space). This way, no need to cut wires or anything of the original TQS. 6 wires from the microstick PCB to the 22-pin connector, that's all I needed for the new hat. Then I can arrange the rows and columns as I want for connecting to the USB controller.

To pass a new cable for the new hat is indeed another possibility. Just a little less elegant in my opinion.

On some web sites I found "micro latch molex" connectors that look quite similar. Could they be the same ?

By your OP I have understand that you are wiring only the new HAT in new USB/HID circuit, leaving the rest "original".

The point is, some of the wires that actual goes for mini-stick axis/button is shared with other pot'/buttons:

+5V

Gnd

One of T6 pins

For the new L.Bodnar HAT you need 5 individual wires - if don't want redo the whole matrix mixing then with other buttons connections. Cant' mix voltage wires with matrix wires. Why use new cables make things easy.

When replacing original controllers by new USB controller ignore original connections and make new accord the new controller result more practical.

Can be less "elegant", but who will see this inside a closed case? ;)

Just 0,02$.

The 22 wires connector looks a 24 pin (2 pins is not used) IDC Ribbon Cable connector:

http://www.aliexpress.com/item/100-Pcs-Per-Lot-2-54mm-Pitch-2x12-Pin-24-Pin-Male-Header-IDC-Ribbon-Cable/32366768523.html

Assembly then require crimping tool:

http://www.cablesonline.com/idcribcabunc.html

 

The 22 wires connector looks a 24 pin (2 pins is not used) IDC Ribbon Cable connector:

 

http://www.aliexpress.com/item/100-Pcs-Per-Lot-2-54mm-Pitch-2x12-Pin-24-Pin-Male-Header-IDC-Ribbon-Cable/32366768523.html

Assembly then require crimping tool:

 

http://www.cablesonline.com/idcribcabunc.html

OPS. Looking better, the cable connector have this code in Cougar World drawing, is FC-24P. :)

https://www.amazon.com/Connector-FC-24P-Female-Header-2-54mm/dp/B00OK43SWE

And, ministick in this drawing is the "Radar Cursor", what use exclusive +5V and Gnd wires - not shared with Antenna and Range +5V, Gnd pots. This make things "easy"*:

In 22 wire cable they are the last pins of the left side, red and brown.

Together with T1 is used 6 wires, exactly what you need for connect the L.Bodnar HAT. . :D

* I you find a IDC 24P cable extension (male-female) will avoid the work of assemble one.

I agree with everything in your last post :-) So sorry if I duplicate what you just wrote.

Sorry that I did not explain well. What I meant is: I will use the TQS as standalone. So the USB controller will be for all buttons/axes, not just the microstick. I already have the USB controller (not an Arduino but similar).

Indeed I want to make a cable that plugs at one end into the 22-pin connector coming out of the handle, and at the other end into the USB controller.

By "elegant" I mean that this is easier for me than to try to fit 6 more wires into the TQS handle, I don't mean that it is prettier ;-).

Indeed I will use wires 17-22 (blue-grey-white-black-brown-red) in the 22-pin connector. I know I have to add diodes to make the matrix for the buttons but that's easy.

After a bit of research it seems that the connector on the microstick PCB could be a "Molex picoblade." Anybody can confirm ? I know, I could just unsolder the one of the microstick but I'd prefer to buy a new one.

And thank you Sokol for the links to the connectors and the crimping tool!

I think I got it:Hirose DF13 connector.

http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=8052998

Can anybody confirm please ?