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Panel Knob Sizes????


Warhog

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:helpsmilie:I am looking for some accurate dimensions for the panel knobs in the A10C. I have a TACAN and ILS sitting on my desk that I have almost finished except they do not have knobs because I didn't want to guess.

 

I have searched and searched with very little success with exception to that large knob thats used for Fuel Select Panel, TISL, Fuel System Control Panel etc. That knob is even available for purchase at some ridiculous price. I was, however, able to get accurate info on that knob so at least I can reproduce it properly.

 

Its the VHF, UHF, Tacan, ILS etc. that I'm looking for. I can pick off diameters from photos but as to their height I would be guessing. I don't like to guess unless forced as I'm almost always wrong.:music_whistling:

 

I will be machining these from scratch out of acrylic rod and then making molds to be able to fabricate extras easily.

 

I would very much appreciate some assistance. So if there is anyone who can shed some light (or dimensions) on this I would be eternally grateful.

 

15750408145_810a329a23_n.jpgIMG_0247 - Copy by JFWall, on Flickr

 

15565003028_57c5478bc2_n.jpgIMG_0268 by JFWall, on Flickr

Regards

John W

aka WarHog.

 

My Cockpit Build Pictures...



John Wall

 

My Arduino Sketches ... https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1-Dc0Wd9C5l3uY-cPj1iQD3iAEHY6EuHg?usp=sharing

 

 

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I believe Korry- Esterline bought the rights several years ago to make many of the knobs used in commercial and military aircraft, possibly including the knobs you're looking for. Korry does have the dimensions of the knobs in their online catalog.

 

So... IF they have the knob you're looking for, AND IF you know the diameter, you should be able to find the other dimensions on through this site: http://www.esterline.com/controlandcommunication/Korry/CockpitControls/Knobs.aspx

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I believe Korry- Esterline bought the rights several years ago to make many of the knobs used in commercial and military aircraft, possibly including the knobs you're looking for. Korry does have the dimensions of the knobs in their online catalog.

 

So... IF they have the knob you're looking for, AND IF you know the diameter, you should be able to find the other dimensions on through this site: http://www.esterline.com/controlandcommunication/Korry/CockpitControls/Knobs.aspx

 

 

Thanks for the heads up on that Mike. However, as much as they have a good assortment of knobs, the ones I'm looking for (Tacan, ILS and the comm radios) are not listed.

 

So I'm still looking...

Regards

John W

aka WarHog.

 

My Cockpit Build Pictures...



John Wall

 

My Arduino Sketches ... https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1-Dc0Wd9C5l3uY-cPj1iQD3iAEHY6EuHg?usp=sharing

 

 

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Thanks guys. I should be able to get much closer now to fabricating an almost exact replica of the knobs I need.. It doesn't need to be within 1 or 2 millimeters. I'm not that obsessed. (Well maybe a little:music_whistling:)

Regards

John W

aka WarHog.

 

My Cockpit Build Pictures...



John Wall

 

My Arduino Sketches ... https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1-Dc0Wd9C5l3uY-cPj1iQD3iAEHY6EuHg?usp=sharing

 

 

WIN 10 Pro, i8-8700k @ 5.0ghz, ASUS Maximus x Code, 16GB Corsair Dominator Platinum Ram,



AIO Water Cooler, M.2 512GB NVMe,

500gb SSD, EVGA GTX 1080 ti (11gb), Sony 65” 4K Display

VPC MongoosT-50, TM Warthog Throttle, TRK IR 5.0, Slaw Viper Pedals

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Just an FYI, The Fuel Select Panel knob is not the same size as the TISL, Fuel System Control Panel or SAS panel it is larger but the same style.

https://www.shapeways.com/shops/a-10c-warthog-supplies

https://forum.dcs.world/topic/133818-deadmans-cockpit-base-plans/#comment-133824

CNCs and Laser engravers are great but they can't do squat with out a precise set of plans.

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Thanks Deadman.

 

I've seen your knobs for sale in the past. I assumed you cast them from original parts. Did you happen to create any actual drawings of them by chance?

 

I have worked exclusively in AutoCAD for 25 years now. If I can get some data on the sizes then I would provide .dwg files or dxf for anyone interested.

Regards

John W

aka WarHog.

 

My Cockpit Build Pictures...



John Wall

 

My Arduino Sketches ... https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1-Dc0Wd9C5l3uY-cPj1iQD3iAEHY6EuHg?usp=sharing

 

 

WIN 10 Pro, i8-8700k @ 5.0ghz, ASUS Maximus x Code, 16GB Corsair Dominator Platinum Ram,



AIO Water Cooler, M.2 512GB NVMe,

500gb SSD, EVGA GTX 1080 ti (11gb), Sony 65” 4K Display

VPC MongoosT-50, TM Warthog Throttle, TRK IR 5.0, Slaw Viper Pedals

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Yes they are cast from the original corect knobs for the panels. No i don't have any drawings for the knobs I sell the copies every now and then when there is enough interest. For the next run it will take at least 3 complete sets and then i can all so make individual panel sets.

https://www.shapeways.com/shops/a-10c-warthog-supplies

https://forum.dcs.world/topic/133818-deadmans-cockpit-base-plans/#comment-133824

CNCs and Laser engravers are great but they can't do squat with out a precise set of plans.

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Kumrik has sent me a bunch of knobs 3D models he constructed from EHC specsheet. They look pretty good! We are planning to put them up on the Hempstick Flight Sim 3D model pages. These are good for 3D printing. If you have SLA printers, they print out beautifully. After a bit sanding and painting, you would be hard pressed to tell them apart!

 

Note that, nobody says you can't mold the print and cast them out of resin (although some photo resin inhibits some RTV). If your printer can print multiple knobs in one go... unless you need a lot of the same knobs, casting isn't exactly time saving (might be cheaper). For instance, my SLA printer's software allows me to lay up multiple different knobs in one go. So, even though it takes about 40 minutes to print. I can get 9 knobs or more in one go, and each can be a different model of knob! That is, all the knobs of a panel in one go.

 

Stayed tuned, the new knobs models should come up in a few days time.

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The Knobs do look very good in his render and they will work great. IF !! your making an F-16 unfortunately may be two of those are used in the A-10C !! ...

https://www.shapeways.com/shops/a-10c-warthog-supplies

https://forum.dcs.world/topic/133818-deadmans-cockpit-base-plans/#comment-133824

CNCs and Laser engravers are great but they can't do squat with out a precise set of plans.

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Attached is the image of the 22 knobs set Kumrik sent that will be published later. These are indeed F16-centric. However, the point is that he constructed these out of EHC spec sheet, without physical knobs. They are damned good! I am sure there are some errors here and there, but I haven't found them yet. I am pretty sure they will work very well if you were to 3D print them out with SLA 3D printers.

 

The point is that if Kumrik can make these knob 3D models out of the EHC spec sheet, you can do the same to the A-10 knobs too. If you do 3D model them, please consider sharing them!

1812776903_Knobssada.jpg.c6bc5ebb1757401abe8123b17429e565.jpg

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Why would i spend the time to model these to give away, when I sell replicas?

The point is that I produce replicas from items I have purchased I sell them at a very reasonable price.


Edited by Deadman

https://www.shapeways.com/shops/a-10c-warthog-supplies

https://forum.dcs.world/topic/133818-deadmans-cockpit-base-plans/#comment-133824

CNCs and Laser engravers are great but they can't do squat with out a precise set of plans.

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That would be your freedom to do so, man! Then, don't share!

 

It's also my freedom to spend thousnads of USD on authentic parts, then spend countless hours meticulously measuring the authentic parts to construct these 3D models and then give them away free of charge, as I prefer not to turn myself into a minimal wage worker making peanuts. Damn it, it's a hobby! Not a job! Don't turn a hobby you enjoy into a job, because once it's a job, there is no fun in it!

 

You see why I treat the PTFE rings as a community service, and I actually only barely stay in the black? It's a hobby, not a job! If it's a job, I'd have to charge $20 apiece and you would have no choice but to pay up when your $500 joystick broke, or make it yourself, or contact TM to get a relacement rubber ring which is bound to break soon.

 

If it's a hobby, then share! That's my take on it. You are free to disagree!

 

Some would prefer to buy your faithful replica with minimal fuzz, some others would prefer to make them with their own hands, given they could get their hands on the information. Each to their own! I just prefer to give people all the information and let them go "hog wild" with it and then come up with something better than I could ever do! Once people downloaded the 3D models, they don't need me anymore. Call me a Hippie if you like even though I don't wear a flower in my hair in San Francisco, I prefer free flow of information.

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The exclamation mark or exclamation point is a punctuation mark usually used after an interjection or exclamation to indicate strong feelings or high volume (shouting), and often marks the end of a sentence

 

Shouting is usual considered rude on the forms. Take a step back pull both of your ears when you hear the pop perhaps we can have a civil discussion until then this is a waste of time.

https://www.shapeways.com/shops/a-10c-warthog-supplies

https://forum.dcs.world/topic/133818-deadmans-cockpit-base-plans/#comment-133824

CNCs and Laser engravers are great but they can't do squat with out a precise set of plans.

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The exclamation mark or exclamation point is a punctuation mark usually used after an interjection or exclamation to indicate strong feelings or high volume (shouting), and often marks the end of a sentence

 

Shouting is usual considered rude on the forms. Take a step back pull both of your ears when you hear the pop perhaps we can have a civil discussion until then this is a waste of time.

 

 

I am done here. Have fun!

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Thank you both for your input. I understand both points of view here and I think it's important that we have a choice and you have both given us that.

 

That being said, Deadman, could I impose upon you for one piece of information I have been unable to verify. I am looking for the overal height of the ILS and Tacan knobs. I don't need height of each piece that makes up the entire knob assembly, just the height of the assemble knob.

 

That would help a great deal.

 

Thanks so much.:)

Regards

John W

aka WarHog.

 

My Cockpit Build Pictures...



John Wall

 

My Arduino Sketches ... https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1-Dc0Wd9C5l3uY-cPj1iQD3iAEHY6EuHg?usp=sharing

 

 

WIN 10 Pro, i8-8700k @ 5.0ghz, ASUS Maximus x Code, 16GB Corsair Dominator Platinum Ram,



AIO Water Cooler, M.2 512GB NVMe,

500gb SSD, EVGA GTX 1080 ti (11gb), Sony 65” 4K Display

VPC MongoosT-50, TM Warthog Throttle, TRK IR 5.0, Slaw Viper Pedals

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1415805349762240011619-vi.jpg

 

 

 

 

since this post touches on 3d modelling for printing my 2 cents on topic.

while the concept is 3d printing is obviously very useful the items that come out of these devises are nowhere near the quality of final product. and that's where i feel like many loose perspective. after knobs (or any part for that matter ) are printed there is still need to do a lot of smoothing, filling and sanding before the item can be used to make a die to cast the actual product. anything less and your item is half as$ed


Edited by agrasyuk

Anton.

 

My pit build thread .

Simple and cheap UFC project

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Lowest resolution output of my SLA printer.

 

Left, the real one, brand new. Middle, lightly sanded, and glass bead blasted. Right, right out of the printer, alcohol washed. Didn't even bother to go higher resolution. After UV cure, it's hard as nail.

 

SLA printers are still expensive, ~USD $3,000, and the process is still not ideal. But, they are slowly becoming viable.

image.jpg.02648feefac4878658fe97d0a72d5d1d.jpg

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The exclamation mark or exclamation point is a punctuation mark usually used after an interjection or exclamation to indicate strong feelings or high volume (shouting), and often marks the end of a sentence

 

Shouting is usual considered rude on the forms. Take a step back pull both of your ears when you hear the pop perhaps we can have a civil discussion until then this is a waste of time.

 

I didnt read it as shouting, even if you want to take the ! that way the comments werent aggressive or shouty IMO but I see it was perhaps a critisism of your approach.

 

You guys have different objectives in simming, different opinions and this place is much better with more contributers with different opinions and aims in simville, it helps everyone to have a spread of people and please dont walk away.

 

Accept the different drivers of people and keep this place a mine of choices, support and opinion.

 

Its what makes it great!

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Lowest resolution output of my SLA printer.

 

Left, the real one, brand new. Middle, lightly sanded, and glass bead blasted. Right, right out of the printer, alcohol washed. Didn't even bother to go higher resolution. After UV cure, it's hard as nail.

 

SLA printers are still expensive, ~USD $3,000, and the process is still not ideal. But, they are slowly becoming viable.

 

They already viable for the appropriate tasks. Mechanical properties of cured materials are also acceptable to a degree. middle part in your pic looks good to make a mold of in case you need more then 1 item.

 

What really got me was a certain YT video where a genious is raving on how the future is here showing off his awesome printed product - disgusting looking and deformed underdesk wire organization bracket. For fraction of cost couple wire hangers could have done the job. With just little bit more effort one could fab way better looking bracket from aluminum flat bar stock you find in any home depot (or other home improvement store ).

Point - just because it can be printed does not mean this is the best way to go.

Anton.

 

My pit build thread .

Simple and cheap UFC project

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Lowest resolution output of my SLA printer.

 

Left, the real one, brand new. Middle, lightly sanded, and glass bead blasted. Right, right out of the printer, alcohol washed. Didn't even bother to go higher resolution. After UV cure, it's hard as nail.

 

SLA printers are still expensive, ~USD $3,000, and the process is still not ideal. But, they are slowly becoming viable.

 

Since we are comparing knobs I thought I would throw mine in for examination:music_whistling:. Notice the smooth silky features. Well defined yet not overpowering. A thing of beauty. Not everyone has a knob like this knob because its mine and only mine. :lol:

 

Calm down everyone. Lets not get hot and sweaty over my knob.:P

 

So this is an example of what my mill and lathe can do (when I have dimensions). All I need to do now is drill and tap the set screw and airbrush a few coats of acrylic "Aircraft Interior Black" OR I could use it as a master and cast a few more without going to the trouble of making another one on the mill.

Regards

John W

aka WarHog.

 

My Cockpit Build Pictures...



John Wall

 

My Arduino Sketches ... https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1-Dc0Wd9C5l3uY-cPj1iQD3iAEHY6EuHg?usp=sharing

 

 

WIN 10 Pro, i8-8700k @ 5.0ghz, ASUS Maximus x Code, 16GB Corsair Dominator Platinum Ram,



AIO Water Cooler, M.2 512GB NVMe,

500gb SSD, EVGA GTX 1080 ti (11gb), Sony 65” 4K Display

VPC MongoosT-50, TM Warthog Throttle, TRK IR 5.0, Slaw Viper Pedals

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