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Cougar replacement gimbal


debolestis

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I am making this thread because people couldn't find post on Cougar gimbal that was buried in my Shapeways thread. Here you can find assembly instructions.

 

1) You'll nee these four parts:

Part 1

6EJ0FXQ.png

Part 2

aAqxsFd.png

Part 3

HwDIxwd.png

Part 4

3UcznWH.png

Today I made a change on part 4, I extended it for 3.5mm, old part will work, but new part will give more range in the corners.

 

 

2) You'll need this hardware:

 

- 4 x 696ZZ ball bearings

- 1 x M6x35 + 1 x regular steel nut (must be magnetic), cap head screw can also be used

- 2 x M6x20 + 1 x stainless steel nut and 1 x regular steel nut (must be magnetic)

- 4 x M5x30 + 4 x nuts

- 4 x M5x8 + 4 x nuts + 4 x washers - this is just for decoration

- 4 x M4x25 + 4 x nuts

- 2 x M4x35 + 2 x nuts

- 4 x M3x8

 

Everything here is metric, I don't know how this will work with imperial hardware. All screws, nuts and washers must be stainless steel except of two M6 nut that must be regular steel and must be magnetic.Stainless steel is not magnetic, if you not sure just make test with any magnet.

 

3) You'll need 4 springs with these dimensions:

NuWps4Y.jpg

If you cannot find them you can buy them from me, set of 4 is 10$ plus shipping. Just sent me a PM

 

4) You'll need sensors and magnets

 

- 2 magnets, D=10mm, d=5mm, h=5mm - R10x05x05ND-N45

- 2 Sensors. I used GVL224 sensors, you can contact him, THIS is his thread. You must tell him that sensors are for +/-20 degrees. GVL224 also sells magnets.

- 10 cm ribbon cable with Dupont connectors. Optional are 3 pin connectors.

 

 

You can make your own sensors, here is mounting diagram:

wIuWvrJ.jpg

 

If you are going to use original Cougar PCB, GVL224 sensors are compatible with it. You can make sensors yourself, there are many threads on that subject but you HAVE TO use analog sensors that work on 5V.

 

If you have bricked Cougar PCB you can replace it with MMJoy2 on Leonardo Pro micro. With it many different sensors can be used. I am using GVL224 sensors, they work great. I made a shield for Pro micro:

IloMQtB.jpg

 

e7Clkki.jpg

 

With it everything just looks much nicer, and it would be easier for people who don't know how to solder. If you buy sensors you can make this thing without soldering just using basic tools.

 

I have 9 more PCBs left, I can solder them for you just send me a PM.

 

If you'll use MMjoy2, you'll have one or two openings on enclosure. You can close them with THIS and THIS part. They are optional, just look nice.

 

In next post I'll give assembly instructions.

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Edited by debolestis
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Now I'll give assembly instructions.

 

Tools that you'll need are:

- Socket wrench for M6 screws. I recomend this part it will make assembly process much easier

- Needle nose pliers

- Hex wrench for M4, and M5 cap screws.

- Phillips head screwdriver

 

Here I'll explain how to mount ball bearings into their position. It is very difficult to do it by brute force. You need pliers and socket wrench, M6 screw and nut and 2 ball bearings.

0oCsDYA.jpg

 

First place ball bearing into opening, it will go in just a little bit.

Pf07tO1.jpg

 

Then take M6 screw, nut and a ball bearing.

KkmMjJS.jpg

 

Place them like this:

RFn6moU.jpg

 

Hold M6 nut with pliers and start tightening screw with socket wrench. Ball bearing with ten go all the way into its slot.

qGC1khw.jpg

 

When you cannot tighten it any more

A4SsFNE.jpg

 

Remove screw nut and extra ball bearing and you'll get this:

izTPSup.jpg

 

uEcGlbZ.jpg

 

Now repeat the process on the rest of ball bearings, it is easy.

C5rDkwq.jpg

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Now disassemble Cougar enclosure, remove PCB old gimbal, ring and rubber boot. You can see 4 M5x8 screw already mounted. They are just for decoration and have no other purpose here.

8N0oQ13.jpg

 

For myself I also modified one opening a little. You can see on photo below, I'll explain that later.

C8CO3Jl.jpg

 

Now we'll install two M6x20 screws and nuts, into Part 3, please don't use washers.

cGwwFFs.jpg

 

Screws will fit into sockets:

3VJOl0c.jpg

 

As I said there are no washers:

AVAeGL4.jpg

 

This is how it should look like:

UULUPgy.jpg

 

Now we'll install two M4x35 and one M4x25 screws and nuts.

AmdiwKE.jpg

 

Place M4 nuts into their slot like in photo:

eOpJM5b.jpg

 

Then tighten three M4 screws

B9FmnBs.jpg

 

Then and one more nut on all three M4 screws

wsN1jFK.jpg

 

Repeat same procedure with two M4x25 screws and 4 nuts on Part 1.

You can see it assembled in photo bellow. This is older version of Part 1 that I modified myself, current version has slots for M5 nuts just like Part 2 next to it.

CXyYobt.jpg

 

Then take female 5 pin DIN connector from old Cougar gimbal and install it on Part 4. You'll have to remove connector. I later added some heatshrink

but it it is optional.

uEvU3aK.jpg

 

To unplug single wire from connector you have to lift a little flap and gently pull it out. Repeat for all wires and when finished just plug them back into connector. There is only one possible orientation, you should hear a click when wire sits in its place.

PiUiY9V.jpg

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Now we'll assemble parts 1, 2 and 3. There are 2 M6 nuts on the photo, the one on the left IS NOT STAINLESS, it must be magnetic. Just make test with magnet, magnet will not stick to stainless steel.

X1V1WGF.jpg

 

Use socket wrench to tighten them both, there are no washers. It should look like on photo bellow. The screw will be less than 1 mm over the nut. Regular nut is on sensor side.

PRiiUkl.jpg

 

Since nut is magnetic magnet will stick on it.

rJnQfef.jpg

 

This is how all parts should look like

RXSd0uQ.jpg

 

Place gimbal in enclosure, there is ony one orientation possible

tWlnSVB.jpg

 

Now take Part 4 through opening on the enclosure.

2doPyqQ.jpg

 

Place Part 4 just a bit above ball bearings on Part 3

vtkJBZh.jpg

 

Install M4x25 screw and two nuts like in photo. Now align Part 4 with two ball bearings on Part 3

Ka3PgwV.jpg

 

And place M6x35 screw through bearings

82aUtB7.jpg

 

EDIT

This screw can be tricky to tighten, I recommend using cap head screw and 90 degrees hex wrench.

3LAdRRr.jpg

Here goes second magnetic M6 nut (not stainless)

TsTw9w9.jpg

 

Then place the magnet. Later you'll have to rotate the magnet to calibrate it properly, I added zip tie on magnet to make it easier for me to calibrate but that is optional.

73WleMG.jpg

 

Now you have to install sensors, use M3 screws

eDmbRpd.jpg

 

Here they are both installed

8Uqtkra.jpg

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Edited by debolestis
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Now springs must be installed, like in photo

NA6B2wO.jpg

 

Here is old bricked PCB that I have, you can see that it fits just fine, gimbal can move freely without any issues. Here you have to connect sensors to PCB. I'll explain that in one of later posts.

 

 

I used MMjoy2 with Leonardo Pro micro and shield that I made. I like to be able to unplug USB cable from joystick so I used micro USB to USB-B female cable. You can use regular micro USB data cable that is used with cell phones.

IloMQtB.jpg

 

All information for MMjoy2 are written on the back of the PCB

e7Clkki.jpg

 

Here it is installed, cable is attached to enclosure. You can also see 2 red cables. I used 10cm ribbon cables and 3 pin Dupont connectors.

735XoiV.jpg

 

I had to cut this opening a bit so that USB-B connector can be secured

9P8nthY.jpg

 

Now install rubber boot and the ring

PjG6r6e.jpg

 

Full assembled with Warthog grip

qyjZBWX.jpg

 

Post in this thread if you have any questions.

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Are those the same sensors GVL224 used to make for BRD products? I have some old sensors from him and an old Cougar. Thinking about doing this mod. :)

My controls & seat

 

Main controls: , BRD-N v4 Flightstick (Kreml C5 controller), TM Warthog Throttle (Kreml F3 controller), BRD-F2 Restyling Bf-109 Pedals w. damper, TrackIR5, Gametrix KW-908 (integrated into RAV4 seat)

Stick grips:

Thrustmaster Warthog

Thrustmaster Cougar (x2)

Thrustmaster F-16 FLCS

BRD KG13

 

Standby controls:

BRD-M2 Mi-8 Pedals (Ruddermaster controller)

BRD-N v3 Flightstick w. exch. grip upgrade (Kreml C5 controller)

Thrustmaster Cougar Throttle

Pilot seat

 

 

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Are those the same sensors GVL224 used to make for BRD products? I have some old sensors from him and an old Cougar. Thinking about doing this mod. :)

 

Yes, just to be sure measure distance between mounting holes on sensors and compare to photo above.

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  • 2 weeks later...
  • 3 weeks later...

Dear Zeljko, can you consider adapting your Cougar gimbals for Komaroff's RAMS digital magnetic sensors?

My controls & seat

 

Main controls: , BRD-N v4 Flightstick (Kreml C5 controller), TM Warthog Throttle (Kreml F3 controller), BRD-F2 Restyling Bf-109 Pedals w. damper, TrackIR5, Gametrix KW-908 (integrated into RAV4 seat)

Stick grips:

Thrustmaster Warthog

Thrustmaster Cougar (x2)

Thrustmaster F-16 FLCS

BRD KG13

 

Standby controls:

BRD-M2 Mi-8 Pedals (Ruddermaster controller)

BRD-N v3 Flightstick w. exch. grip upgrade (Kreml C5 controller)

Thrustmaster Cougar Throttle

Pilot seat

 

 

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The LT

 

The problem is that Komaroff's RAMS digital sensor don't work in the analog mode required to be plugged in Cougar control board - unless Komaroff release the promised adapter digital to analog.

 

This in the case you don't want replace Cougar control board with a new USB controller compatible with RAMS sensor digital mode.

 

Just fit the RAMS sensor PCB in the the 3D printed gimbal is easy - but await Debolestis position about, probable he need RAMS footprint.

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AFAIK, RAMS is not compatible with MMJoy2. And I'm not sure it will be in the foreseeable future as MegaMozg should be quite busy with VIRPIL project. At the moment RAMS is only compatible with KREML line-up of controllers.

 

Yes, my mistake. I am using GVL 224 sensors and they were very good for me, I really didn't have any issues with them and they are compatible with Cougar and Mmjoy2.

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Heres RAMS dimensions.

 

DS_RAMS_full.thumb.jpg.9d78473d333d3c9297fc2bc5abfb869c.jpg

https://forum.il2sturmovik.com/index.php?app=core&module=attach&section=attach&attach_id=32692

 

BTW - RAMS sensor is used by Slaw and Baur, and is probable well "tuned" like VKB MaRS.

 

But worth little for DIY purpose because the compatible controller F3/L3 is no easy to buy - alias even difficult find their WEB site (and I know the project since Sukhoi forum (Rip) 'hay days'). Is not something like the easy and cheap to get Arduino and write MMjoy2 firmware (what is easy).

 

http://www.letiaga.ru/

http://www.letiaga.ru/kontroller-f3-pro

 

I ask to Komaroff about an adapter for use RAMS in analog mode - so became possible option as replacement in CH's, Cougar, Saitek's, DIY. He post about the possibility to make one (external to RAMS):

 

https://forum.il2sturmovik.com/topic/17504-digital-magnetic-sensor-control-devices-komaroff/#entry493833

 

But don't know what happens after.

 

Debolestis,

 

Anyway as is easy provide holes for RAMS in your gimbal, could be good idea make this option available for Cougar owners that has easy access to KREML.


Edited by Sokol1_br
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First, both of you guys are great and I want to let you know I respect you both.

That said, I was planning to use the Cougar with a kreml F3 controller which is RAMS-compatible, as Sokol already mentioned.

 

As the gimbals seem compatible, it's great! I'll guess I'll just order then. :)

 

EDIT: Just measured the sensor mounting hole width, it's 34.4m so it is compatible with the RAMS sensors.


Edited by The LT
Measured the width

My controls & seat

 

Main controls: , BRD-N v4 Flightstick (Kreml C5 controller), TM Warthog Throttle (Kreml F3 controller), BRD-F2 Restyling Bf-109 Pedals w. damper, TrackIR5, Gametrix KW-908 (integrated into RAV4 seat)

Stick grips:

Thrustmaster Warthog

Thrustmaster Cougar (x2)

Thrustmaster F-16 FLCS

BRD KG13

 

Standby controls:

BRD-M2 Mi-8 Pedals (Ruddermaster controller)

BRD-N v3 Flightstick w. exch. grip upgrade (Kreml C5 controller)

Thrustmaster Cougar Throttle

Pilot seat

 

 

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  • 2 weeks later...

Hi there,

Need some assistance with this mod, please.

I have installed all the parts into my existing Cougar - the 3D printed parts by Debolestis are very good, the gimbal is very smooth. I am using the MagRez GVL224 sensors and the existing Cougar PCB.

I've searched everywhere for the Cougar PCB wiring diagram, but no luck. I'm basically wanting to know which cables to connect from the +/-/out pins on the MagRez to the original Cougar PCB. I've tried plugging my bare Cougar PCB into the USB on the pc and testing the pins for plugs J5 (x-axis) and J6 (y-axis). I can get a +5V reading, but my electronics knowledge is poor - not sure if I'm positively identifying which one is the +5V out pin.

I'm happy to plug away and try - but will this risk blowing/damaging the MagRez???

If anyone can advise me what the original Brown/Red/Orange cables on the original pots are, it would be really helpful.

Cheers!

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I'm happy to plug away and try - but will this risk blowing/damaging the MagRez???

 

Yes, a wrong connection will "blow" your MagREZ and mc "barbecue" smell is horrible.:D

 

The original pot is connected using:

 

Gnd - Signal - +5v (early Cougar PCB may use ~3.5v), so the question is know what pin is Gnd and what is +5v on Cougar PCB, as the middle pin is Signal.

 

Take a look there:

 

https://forums.eagle.ru/showthread.php?p=1418106


Edited by Sokol1_br
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Ok, MagRez sensors installed, connected and working beautifully!

Only problem now is buttons on flight stick are not working - at all...

Buttons on throttle are fine.

Have checked wiring, re-seated stick on base - tried everything! I hope I didn't fry anything in my initial power up and magnet calibration checks.

Had a quick fly and the joystick itself works really well - reasonably happy with the gimbal and spring setup - the stick is much "looser" than I'm used to, but the feel is nice.

I just wish the f&cking buttons would work!!!!

Suggestions appreciated - thanks to Debolestis for his great gimbal design and Sokol1_br for his assistance.

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Is there a method of determining if the hand grip if faulty or if the main Cougar PCB is the cause of the buttons on the hand grip not working?

I have found that when running Foxy's Joystick Analyser, that if I disconnect the stick handle from the PS2 connector, ALL the stick button lights illuminate in the Analyser, for a short period, then go out.

Same thing happens if I gently shake the cable - perhaps I've inadvertently damaged the PS2 cable - will remove and test and also see if TM has a spare.

Another question, if I may - if the PCB is damaged and I swap to an Arduino board and use MMjoy, is it possible to still incorporate the Cougar throttle with the joystick?

Thanks.


Edited by Joe Lighty
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Is there a method of determining if the hand grip if faulty or if the main Cougar PCB is the cause of the buttons on the hand grip not working?

I have found that when running Foxy's Joystick Analyser, that if I disconnect the stick handle from the PS2 connector, ALL the stick button lights illuminate in the Analyser, for a short period, then go out.

Same thing happens if I gently shake the cable - perhaps I've inadvertently damaged the PS2 cable - will remove and test and also see if TM has a spare.

Another question, if I may - if the PCB is damaged and I swap to an Arduino board and use MMjoy, is it possible to still incorporate the Cougar throttle with the joystick?

Thanks.

 

Sounds like a faulty ground imo. It's normal for the 'tree' to light up when you disconnect the grip. Your miniDIN connection is suspect somewhere in the chain. Alternatively, if you've ever opened up the grip, most likely you pinched a wire somewhere, it's really easy to do with Cougar grips.

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