Cyclic motion

No way, it can't be this tight. Even though it is mapped in axis to its full extents wit, the cyclic in Gazalle is nuts. Slight pressure is all that is needed to get severe motion. It would be uncontrollable in RW.

No way, it can't be this tight. Even though it is mapped in axis to its full extents wit, the cyclic in Gazalle is nuts. Slight pressure is all that is needed to get severe motion. It would be uncontrollable in RW.

You should try an R44,.. :P

If your using a joystick it can be a tad challenging, I have effectively a 25cm (10in) extension on the gimbal and it's mounted so that i's between my legs as in the Gazelle etc. and for minor maneuvering and hovering it is just slight pressure on the cyclic.

If you are using a joystick try stacking some books beside the joystick to rest your wrist on, for most of my helicopter flying I use 2 fingers and thumb and apply slight pressure on the cyclic as needed.

Because the Gazelle cyclic is totally centric in action* you could add some curvature to the X and Y axis to reduce the sensitivity whilst you get used to it.

Also map the hat switch to the trim function the trim function is much finer in control but I don't use it though.

*I'm not sure why it's like that.

I am getting used to that. AV-8B hover requires pressure vs. deflection in hover. Speaking of that. I think it is bad idea to fly AV-8B and any of the helicopter mods in DCS. Not to mention in RW. The spool down after T/D are inverse of each other. Even slight getting used to one causes problem in the other.You muscle memory is doing one thing and your aircraft is doing the opposite. By the time you catch it, and arrest it, the approach has been blown. Try again.

RW R44 has vertical industry's longest cyclic, that goes over under with elbow. So it can be swung from stbd seat to port. It is crazy. I get the light touch with small helicopters, but confining motion of cyclic to such tight range is kind of poor man-machine interface. Basically with X56 Rhino, Gazelle is flown with one or two fingers on the cyclic, and wrist must be in good comfortable rest position.

Try adding some curvature to X and Y axis, I wouldn't recommend adding dead zone at all and speaking of such go into DCS->options->misc-> and ensure the FFB option is un-ticked this is important for Gazelle as it can impose a sort of dead zone right in the center of the cyclic action.

As an indication for basic maneuvering and keep in mind I effectively have a 25cm extension I would use only a few millimeters to maybe 5mm (a few 1/16 to a 1/4") of travel, that's pickup hovering hover taxing set down etc.

Whilst I am not familiar with the X56 one of the issues I had for DCS helicopters and especially the Gazelle was the mechanical centering and springs in the joystick it really makes fine control difficult.

I have no deadzones and have tried all sorts of axis curves. It does not lessen the fact that in flight actual usable deflection area is confined to the diamond around center. With control indicator visible, the diamond corners almost never touch the center. Like I said, in Gazelle the control isn't deflection its pressure on cyclic and collective. Torque pedal deflection is actually OK. You want to create a muscle memory conundrum. Fly 4 sorties in Gazelle, then 4 sorties in UH-1H, then Gazelle, then switch to AV-8B with VSTOL T/O and landings. The muscle memory used, are inverses in those modules, and it just plays havok with mind controls.

Yes I just built my Mk1 pedals and coming to terms with muscle memory although it's more like that of the Huey so it's very different to the action of my old combat pros.

Could I suggest dialing in about +8 ~+12 for curvature on both X and Y axis with no other curves, that will reduce the sensitivity over center at the increase of cyclic effect as you apply more deflection to cyclic. That should enable you to have more travel so you get to push the stick around more for normal maneuvering. As you get more used to how it handles you can dial out some or all of the curvature.

I know I struggled with the short throw of a joystick when I started DCS and I mostly fly rotary. :)

I use 25 on cyclic, 25 on collective and 25 on anti-torque pedals.

I don't use curves with the Gazelle. I turn down the pitch and roll Y axis saturation to 70. Keeps it linear at the expense of losing the last 30% of travel, which you absolutely never need. And my stick has about a 7" extension.

I do think the Gazelle FM is weird though, for sure.

I am starting to see that cyclic motion in this mod is not correct, as helicopters go. Granted we have a very tight cyclic range. Even with tight cyclic envelope , holding cyclic at particular pitch and roll point, should not provide a continual moment. FFB is OFF in misc. options. Pilot has to correct and counter-correct. In standard met day of 20 c. (68 F), with zero wind , pilot has to correct and counter-correct. UH-1H and KA-50 mods work as cyclic should. This behavior is same with and without Magnetic Brake, in Gazelle.

I am starting to see that cyclic motion in this mod is not correct, as helicopters go. Granted we have a very tight cyclic range. Even with tight cyclic envelope , holding cyclic at particular pitch and roll point, should not provide a continual moment. FFB is OFF in misc. options. Pilot has to correct and counter-correct. In standard met day of 20 c. (68 F), with zero wind , pilot has to correct and counter-correct. UH-1H and KA-50 mods work as cyclic should. This behavior is same with and without Magnetic Brake, in Gazelle.

Umm it should your controlling roll rate not roll position the Gazelle in this respect is not a space ship. :)

Think about if you push cyclic to roll the aircraft to lets say to a certain bank angle then bring the cyclic back to neutral position (so you don't do complete rolls which is great fun anyway) it will pretty much stay at the bank angle until either aerodynamics and or gravity or you change it the helicopters attitude will not correct itself.

The same way you push forward or back on cyclic you push until you have the desired pitch and back to neutral position accept for required corrections. Although the modelling of blow back seems ineffective for forward (any direction) flight in the Gazelle but the effect of blow back and associated change in rotor disc angle kinda gives the impression that forward speed is proportional to forward stick position it is but for other reasons rather then a proportional control system. The Huey is great to observe this effect.

You kinda get a feel for the idea of pitch rate control when doing loops again great fun. :D

For roll effect the Huey is the same, so to the Mi-8 with auto pilot off there seems to be a bug in AP for Mi-8.

What can help is practise hovering and try to remove those curves/saturation. Happy days. ;)

If anyone having difficulties learning to fly the Gazelle wants some help, I'm more than happy and willing to spend time with you in the Server of your choice as long as we have Voice Comms.

Anyone Interested is welcome to PM me and make arrangements to hook up online.

I'm in Ontario, Canada (Eastern aka Toronto Time) but I'll work with people in other time zones as best I can.

I believe I can have practically anyone flying comfortably in a short period of time.

I can help with the Nadir as well (current waypoint; custom waypoints; Long/Lat conversion calculations).

Same here happy to help for the guys downunder may help with time zones etc. :thumbup:

BTW - The BEST WAY to know how accurate the Cyclic is (compared to how you might have your stick set up) is to watch Actual Pilots flying the Gazelle.

Pretty much the entire 3rd Episode of "Flying Soldiers" (a BBC mini-series re: Gazelle Pilots in Training). Throughout this episode are several great views of the Cyclic being used.

This helped me tremendously when it came to setting up my stick.

The fact is, in the actual aircraft, the cyclic is barely moved more than an inch or 1.5 inches off center for practically all parts of any flight (other than the most severe turns etc).

I HIGHLY recommend Gazelle Pilots (new and experienced) to watch the Entire Series (6 episodes) OR at the very least, Episode 3 in its entirety.

I'm sure you will enjoy it and benefit from it.

Here's the URL >>