WARHTOG FRICTION

hey to all

Just bought the Warhtog. Is there any option for the friction at the stick? seems very hard. I also want to ask what is the command in hornet in order to set the throttles in idle from hotas and not using shift+home.

thanx

You will need to look into other springs if you want the stick to be less pressure. https://warthog-extensions-by-sahaj.com sells a green spring if you want less tension and do not have an extension.

You should get used to it as you will see that it will loosen up over time and get a sweet-spot feeling eventually. Mine only took a couple of months. The stiffness is mostly due to the difference from your last controller maybe. But you want that snap back to neutral as the Warthog is the best in consumer design level products at such a low price point. I can't speak as to VirPil or VKB but for the price of the TM WH COMBO HOTAS, you only get one of the other half of their controllers.

The big challenge will be setting your curves and dead-zones for each aircraft. For the Hornet and Viper, I have custom LUAs to manage the inputs and functions.

If you have the room and can set it up, consider using an extension and the tension on the spring will seem like nothing....#leverage!

JUICE

I think he complain about friction rather than tension, I had two Warthog in the past, both were very "sticky" and combined to a quite strong spring, and the fact axes are combined it result in big neutral bump making small correction near center complicated.

Weaker spring and/or extension will help, replacing the shitty TM grease as well. I used Nyogel 767A in mine.

I also want to ask what is the command in hornet in order to set the throttles in idle from hotas and not using shift+home.

The Warthog Throttle lever when between Idle and OFF position will hold a button, by default. Problem is in DCS IIRC we can only map the PRESS event, so we can map the button to the Idle to OFF function, but we can't map the OFF to IDLE. That's why we often use external programmation software like Thrustmaster Target, Joystick Gremlin, UCR, Etc..

Exemple with Thrustmaster Target :

//Engine Start
MapKey(&Throttle, EOLIGN, PULSE+R_ALT+HOME);
MapKey(&Throttle, EORIGN, PULSE+R_SHIFT+HOME);

MapKeyR(&Throttle, IDLELON, PULSE+R_ALT+HOME);
MapKeyR(&Throttle, IDLERON, PULSE+R_SHIFT+HOME);

//Engine Stop
MapKey(&Throttle, EOLMOTOR, PULSE+R_ALT+END);
MapKey(&Throttle, EORMOTOR, PULSE+R_SHIFT+END);

Edit : Heh wrong/incomplete code sorry.

//Engine Start
MapKeyR(&Throttle, IDLELON, PULSE+R_ALT+HOME);
MapKeyR(&Throttle, IDLERON, PULSE+R_SHIFT+HOME);

//Engine Stop
MapKey(&Throttle, IDLELON, PULSE+R_ALT+END);
MapKey(&Throttle, IDLERON, PULSE+R_SHIFT+END);

Thanx a lot

...result in big neutral bump making small correction near center complicated...

The hard center on the Warthog is defined by the 4 small springs that are below the clutch.

They are the ones that counter the big upper spring's force to leave the center. (Moving clutch up)

These default 4 springs are ultra weak (compared to big upper spring), resulting in a very hard center - you need a big force to leave center, so small corrections are a problem.

I replaced them by springs I made from a long spring, with a much bigger wire diameter, but same inner spire (turn?) diameter (about 6mm). Cut 4 springs and defined height by testing.

(you need not too much counter force, or these springs won't let the clutch go full down position, which results in loose stick in neutral position. But just enough force for, at the same time, letting clutch go full down, and only need a small/weak input force to leave center).

Of course resistance of the 4 little springs is in relation with upper big spring. If you change the big spring (to change the general resistance of the stick for full travel) you need to adjust also the 4 little springs.

I did that day 1 after receiving my warthog. And since it's a soft center, perfect for me ("desktop" position use, no extension).

The hard center on the Warthog is defined by the 4 small springs that are below the clutch.

They are the ones that counter the big upper spring's force to leave the center. (Moving clutch up)

 

These default 4 springs are ultra weak (compared to big upper spring), resulting in a very hard center - you need a big force to leave center, so small corrections are a problem.

 

I replaced them by springs I made from a long spring, with a much bigger wire diameter, but same inner spire (turn?) diameter (about 6mm). Cut 4 springs and defined height by testing.

(you need not too much counter force, or these springs won't let the clutch go full down position, which results in loose stick in neutral position. But just enough force for, at the same time, letting clutch go full down, and only need a small/weak input force to leave center).

 

Of course resistance of the 4 little springs is in relation with upper big spring. If you change the big spring (to change the general resistance of the stick for full travel) you need to adjust also the 4 little springs.

 

I did that day 1 after receiving my warthog. And since it's a soft center, perfect for me ("desktop" position use, no extension).

Thanks I'll share your post with a friend who still have a Warthog, he'll try that quickly I guess! :joystick:

Hello, I wanted to ask everyone if someone has already had experience with the products from https://warthog-extensions-by-sahaj.com/. Extensions of various lengths as well as springs and silicone rings for the TM Warthog are offered here. Can you upgrade your Warthog with it, does it make it (noticeably) more precise? Do I also need this silicone ring and spring or is it enough to get an extension? Virpil also offers extensions that are apparently also compatible with TM Warthog ...

they are well regarded on here yes.