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New RTX 2080, very poor performance


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Start with BIOS. (press DEL at computer start-up). Dont change anything you dont understand and don´t forget to save settings. Maybe you discover something here.

 

Also what is your PSU (Power supply - wattage) ? And are you sure you can manage cooling of the beast?

 

There's really not much to change in the BIOS regarding the GPU, basically just the "first display adapter" which is set to PCIe and not iGPU.

 

The PSU is a 750W, so should be enough. Since the card only running at 300Mhz, temps don't go up by more than a few degrees C while in game.

GPU: PALIT NVIDIA RTX 3080 10GB | CPU: Intel Core i7-9700K 4,9GHz | RAM: 64GB DDR4 3000MHz
VR: HP Reverb G2 | HOTAS: TM Warthog Throttle and Stick
OS: Windows 10 22H2

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Have you tried some different power connectors from your power supply - you should have a few you can use.

But yea that 0mV is bad news - possibly a dud card. Just RMA it for a new replacement one. There has been a lot of news about the 20 series of cards crapping out, but mostly due to dud GDDR6 memory.

 

The 0 mV was just a MSI Afterburner setting thing. Still, yeah, while troubleshooting and googling I've come to understand there's been some problems with the series.

GPU: PALIT NVIDIA RTX 3080 10GB | CPU: Intel Core i7-9700K 4,9GHz | RAM: 64GB DDR4 3000MHz
VR: HP Reverb G2 | HOTAS: TM Warthog Throttle and Stick
OS: Windows 10 22H2

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The PSU is a 750W, so should be enough. Since the card only running at 300Mhz, temps don't go up by more than a few degrees C while in game.

 

Do you have the power-in to graphic from Two dedicated cords ? I feel like one is malfunctioning, because that behaviour I would expect. The graphic should go on without power at all but only in such state that it merely output video. (I may not be correct with that one, but GPUs with one externail power in were like this)

 

So far you did:

 

1) removed old drivers, installed new

2) Checked the BIOS (preference to PCIE card set, What about PCIE BUS? 4x / 8x / 16x)

3) Checked connection of the cables (I think that there is malfunction in one - I suggest to start the graphic withhout cables, with one, and than another to rule out malfunction of cable)

 

I wouuld do next in your situation

 

1) Look deeply into driver settings for performance eco systems etc. Same with windows

2) Check the cables as I suggested

3) Chech for newest firmware on my motherboard and firmware it (set-up the bios again)

4) Update the motherboard drivers

5) Send here exactly what components you have your computer composed of.

6) Check the graphic in different computer - or get it checked in specialized shop

7) Blame myself to not be able to solve it alone or be happy to progress it for return for working one.


Edited by Wexler

Ryzen 7 2700X | MSI Trio 1080Ti | MSI X470 Plus Motherboard | 32GB Kingston HyperX Predator 2933 DDR4 | M.2 XPG GAMMIX S11 Pro SSD | Virpil Mongoost-50 throttle | Thrustmaster Warthog Stick | MFG Crosswind | Rift S

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Do you have the power-in to graphic from Two dedicated cords ? I feel like one is malfunctioning, because that behaviour I would expect. The graphic should go on without power at all but only in such state that it merely output video. (I may not be correct with that one, but GPUs with one externail power in were like this)

 

So far you did:

 

1) removed old drivers, installed new

2) Checked the BIOS (preference to PCIE card set, What about PCIE BUS? 4x / 8x / 16x)

3) Checked connection of the cables (I think that there is malfunction in one - I suggest to start the graphic withhout cables, with one, and than another to rule out malfunction of cable)

 

I wouuld do next in your situation

 

1) Look deeply into driver settings for performance eco systems etc. Same with windows

2) Check the cables as I suggested

3) Chech for newest firmware on my motherboard and firmware it

4) Update the motherboard drivers

5) Send here exactly what components you have your computer composed of.

6) Check the graphic in different computer - or get it checked in specialized shop

7) Blame myself to not be able to solve it alone or be happy to progress it for return for working one.

 

 

Yeah. I'll test the thing to start up with only one PCIe power cord connected. I think I forgot on of those once back in the day and iirc the computer did not start at all (or gave a few beeps and no display at all) but I'll test that none the less.

 

I want to test it in another computer, but I dont have another gaming rig. And I don't think my friend is too keen on testing it in his PC, so to not start having driver issues and stuff himself..

 

Honestly, I don't see how much can be wrong with the computer, as my old GTX 980 performed well to this day, (better than this new 2080). And, that card also requires both PCIe Power connectors to be connected so they both SHOULD be working :/

GPU: PALIT NVIDIA RTX 3080 10GB | CPU: Intel Core i7-9700K 4,9GHz | RAM: 64GB DDR4 3000MHz
VR: HP Reverb G2 | HOTAS: TM Warthog Throttle and Stick
OS: Windows 10 22H2

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Honestly, I don't see how much can be wrong with the computer, as my old GTX 980 performed well to this day, (better than this new 2080). And, that card also requires both PCIe Power connectors to be connected so they both SHOULD be working :/

 

You got me with that one. But nothing lasts forever, you can check. I would then bet my best chance on the firmware and updates of motherboard, as 2080 is exactly the graphic that did not exist in the age of your motherboard i guess.

 

EDIT: And the golden rule - Read the manual (FAQ, Troubleshoting) even on website. I solved my problem with Oculus Rift S tracking lose when i read up on motherboard FAQ which thing to disable in bios.


Edited by Wexler

Ryzen 7 2700X | MSI Trio 1080Ti | MSI X470 Plus Motherboard | 32GB Kingston HyperX Predator 2933 DDR4 | M.2 XPG GAMMIX S11 Pro SSD | Virpil Mongoost-50 throttle | Thrustmaster Warthog Stick | MFG Crosswind | Rift S

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If the GPU is locked at 300mhz this is a known issue with RTX cards. You'll likely have to RMA it unless Nvidia or the vendor informs you of a firmware update....which is unlikely.

I have a watercooled 2080ti FE and have had zero issues, but I have kept up to date on all the issues to look out for. When the card locks to 300mhz it is in a "safe mode" that runs when there is a detected problem.

 

Honestly I'd immediately RMA and go back to the 980ti until you receive your replacement. Fact is, if the 980ti works it is clearly not your system. Your PSU is more than enough for a single 2080. Even with a hacked bios, the most even the 2080ti will draw around 380w for the Founders based models.

 

PS. Make sure you update MSI Afterburner to the newest BETA version (currently I believe Afterburner beta version is only version compatible with RTX) or uninstall it and download EVGA Precision X1. Otherwise it may make your card do all kinds of wonky things. These RTX cards are alot different than the 10 and 9 series cards.


Edited by dadunn1700
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What is the difference between EVGA Precision and MSI Afterburner?

They have the same core, thank you for the explanation.

🖥️MSI PRO Z690-A DDR4, Kingston 3600 MHz 64 Gb, i5 12600K, Gigabyte RTX 4090, Samsung SSD 970 EVO Plus,🕹️VKB NXT Premium.

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If the GPU is locked at 300mhz this is a known issue with RTX cards. You'll likely have to RMA it unless Nvidia or the vendor informs you of a firmware update....which is unlikely.

I have a watercooled 2080ti FE and have had zero issues, but I have kept up to date on all the issues to look out for. When the card locks to 300mhz it is in a "safe mode" that runs when there is a detected problem.

 

Thanks for that. Yeah I honestly didn't see how it was a system problem. Still, I'm gonna do a last test in another system this afternoon. If the problem remains then it's confirmed to be a card issue.

 

Yeah thanks all for your input so far! :thumbup::thumbup::thumbup:

GPU: PALIT NVIDIA RTX 3080 10GB | CPU: Intel Core i7-9700K 4,9GHz | RAM: 64GB DDR4 3000MHz
VR: HP Reverb G2 | HOTAS: TM Warthog Throttle and Stick
OS: Windows 10 22H2

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UPDATE: Tested the card in another computer and there it works flawlessly. :(

GPU: PALIT NVIDIA RTX 3080 10GB | CPU: Intel Core i7-9700K 4,9GHz | RAM: 64GB DDR4 3000MHz
VR: HP Reverb G2 | HOTAS: TM Warthog Throttle and Stick
OS: Windows 10 22H2

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UPDATE: Tested the card in another computer and there it works flawlessly. :(

 

And you cant post your system specs?

 

Cooler Master HAF XB EVO , ASUS P8Z77-V, i7-3770K @ 4.6GHz, Noctua AC, 32GB Corsair Vengeance Pro, EVGA 1080TI 11GB, 2 Samsung 840 Pro 540GB SSDs Raid 0, 1TB HDD, EVGA SuperNOVA 1300W PS, G930 Wireless SS Headset, TrackIR5/Wireless Proclip, TM Warthog, Saitek Pro Combat Pedals, 75" Samsung 4K QLED, HP Reverb G2, Win 10

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And you cant post your system specs?

 

MB: ASUS MAXIMUS V GENE

CPU: Intel Core i5 3570K

GPU: PALIT NVIDIA RTX 3080 10GB | CPU: Intel Core i7-9700K 4,9GHz | RAM: 64GB DDR4 3000MHz
VR: HP Reverb G2 | HOTAS: TM Warthog Throttle and Stick
OS: Windows 10 22H2

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That is difficult for me to understand . It apparently drove his 980 to much higher frames with the same settings and resolution .

9700k @ stock , Aorus Pro Z390 wifi , 32gb 3200 mhz CL16 , 1tb EVO 970 , MSI RX 6800XT Gaming X TRIO , Seasonic Prime 850w Gold , Coolermaster H500m , Noctua NH-D15S , CH Pro throttle and T50CM2/WarBrD base on Foxxmounts , CH pedals , Reverb G2v2

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This old I5 is your problem, even at 5Ghz this cpu will bottleneck your 2080 very hard.
Thats not the point. He was comparing his old 980 with the new 2080 in the same system.

 

I probably would reinstall windows as the last effort


Edited by Oceandar

Mastering others is strength. Mastering yourself is true power. - Lao Tze

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Thats not the point. He was comparing his old 980 with the new 2080 in the same system.

 

I probably would reinstall windows as the last effort

 

Already done. Did not fix the problem.

GPU: PALIT NVIDIA RTX 3080 10GB | CPU: Intel Core i7-9700K 4,9GHz | RAM: 64GB DDR4 3000MHz
VR: HP Reverb G2 | HOTAS: TM Warthog Throttle and Stick
OS: Windows 10 22H2

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This old I5 is your problem, even at 5Ghz this cpu will bottleneck your 2080 very hard.

 

See post below. That is NOT the problem.

But sure it will bottleneck some, however it will not get me lower frames per second than my GTX 980. If that's how you think it works, you've got it wrong man. But yes it will bottleneck to the extent that I'd only get between 80-85% performance out of the RTX 2080, and I don't care about that for the time being. A complete system upgrade will happen soon enough.

 

Generally speaking, 80-85% performance of a RTX 2080 would give way more FPS than 100% performance of a GTX 980.


Edited by chrisofsweden

GPU: PALIT NVIDIA RTX 3080 10GB | CPU: Intel Core i7-9700K 4,9GHz | RAM: 64GB DDR4 3000MHz
VR: HP Reverb G2 | HOTAS: TM Warthog Throttle and Stick
OS: Windows 10 22H2

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Update:

 

I had an hour long chat session with nVidia and they strongly believed faulty card, suggested me to RMA / return it. According to them, it should work, even in my old system.

The GPU clock stuck at 300Mhz always is not normal operation in any system.


Edited by chrisofsweden

GPU: PALIT NVIDIA RTX 3080 10GB | CPU: Intel Core i7-9700K 4,9GHz | RAM: 64GB DDR4 3000MHz
VR: HP Reverb G2 | HOTAS: TM Warthog Throttle and Stick
OS: Windows 10 22H2

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Sorry to hear that. (Especially when it worked in another PC)

 

It is wise to upgrade whole computer at all to prevent some different generation bottlenecks and errors.

 

It can be done by 2-3 steps to split the costs in half a year - like Motherboard with CPU and RAM and then graphic card. RTX 2080 probably cost same or more than the first step. Also taking opportunities to buy used goods like RAM which are lifetime warranted from factory is wise. (just look for the models supported by Motherbaord and look on product warranty on factory website). Next opportunity can be just released CPUs (ryzen gen.3) which will lot of youtubers buy and then sell as an unpacked goods. I did that with Ryzen gen. 2.

 

Only thing i should not buy from second hand is used motherboard.

 

Anyway I wish you best of luck with new one.


Edited by Wexler

Ryzen 7 2700X | MSI Trio 1080Ti | MSI X470 Plus Motherboard | 32GB Kingston HyperX Predator 2933 DDR4 | M.2 XPG GAMMIX S11 Pro SSD | Virpil Mongoost-50 throttle | Thrustmaster Warthog Stick | MFG Crosswind | Rift S

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What is the difference between EVGA Precision and MSI Afterburner?

They have the same core, thank you for the explanation.

 

Their is not much of a difference now between Afterburner BETA and Precision X1. When the RTX cards were released, EVGA Precision X1 was the only software you could use to overclock them and currently only the BETA version of MSI Afterburner is compatible with RTX cards. I have no idea what happens if you try to overclock an RTX card with incompatible software, but I'm guessing it could possibly trigger safe mode in an RTX card.


Edited by dadunn1700
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have you checked things like CPU temp rtx can stress your cpu more then 980.

another thing your cpu clock is 5ghz i would recomend to reset it to factory settings

is it realy running 5ghz stable did you prime95 it ?? for at least 1 hour ??


Edited by grafspee

System specs: I7 14700KF, Gigabyte Z690 Aorus Elite, 64GB DDR4 3600MHz, Gigabyte RTX 4090,Win 11, 48" OLED LG TV + 42" LG LED monitor

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Their is not much of a difference now between Afterburner BETA and Precision X1. When the RTX cards were released, EVGA Precision X1 was the only software you could use to overclock them and currently only the BETA version of MSI Afterburner is compatible with RTX cards. I have no idea what happens if you try to overclock an RTX card with incompatible software, but I'm guessing it could possibly trigger safe mode in an RTX card.

We just need to monitor the data.

Beta AFB is accessible here: https://www.guru3d.com/files-details/msi-afterburner-beta-download.html

🖥️MSI PRO Z690-A DDR4, Kingston 3600 MHz 64 Gb, i5 12600K, Gigabyte RTX 4090, Samsung SSD 970 EVO Plus,🕹️VKB NXT Premium.

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We just need to monitor the data.

Beta AFB is accessible here: https://www.guru3d.com/files-details/msi-afterburner-beta-download.html

 

Personally, I use HWInfo to do all monitoring tasks.

 

https://www.hwinfo.com/

 

I have it setup so my cpu, gpu, and coolant temps are in view at all times in the taskbar. It's has a low resource use as a background program.

 

Blue/cpu, green/gpu, red/coolant temps in Celcius.

Capture.thumb.JPG.2c40052c1cbe00c982fe83dee66def15.JPG


Edited by dadunn1700
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