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Warthog AP engage/Disengage


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My AP engage/Disengage buttons has died and I want to replace. I have removed the triple toggle PCB that it's attached to bit can't seem to figure out how the actual button is secured to the chassis.

 

Does anyone have some instruction on how to remove.and replace?

 

Also, does anyone have a source for this button?

 

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The button is held in place by two tabs, one on either side of the button behind the panel. Simply press these in and pop the button out through the front. Cut the wires close to the button so you have something to play with when you solder on a replacement.

 

I think you may have to remove the decorative panel from the front first, though. It is simply held in place by screws in front and some double sided tape, but then you must already have removed it if you get the toggles out?

 

The button itself is a proprietary Thrustmaster design so I suppose you'd have to get a replacement directly from them if you want a one-to-one drop in replacement. You should contact them before you snip any wires if you want to go that route.

 

The button on the real LASTE panel is a MS25089-3G

https://forums.eagle.ru/showthread.php?t=160350

e.g. OTTO P1-72622 https://www.mouser.com/datasheet/2/603/Otto_P1_Sealed_Military_Pushbuttons-1214958.pdf

Any other push button with normally open circuit that fits should work though.

 

I switched mine out with OTTO P1-71122 on the throttle panel. It works fine our purpose and it has the heavy 4 lbs actuation force. The feel of the OTTO button is just incredible compared to the stock TM. To fit the button, I had to enlarge the hole in the front panel a bit. Also, I removed the TM 3 toggle PCB completely to make room for mil-spec toggle switches, so I'm not sure the OTTO switch will fit if you reinstall the TM PCB.

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Thanks for the great info! I do, indeed see the tabs that you referred to. I think I'll be stuck with the TM button given that I'll be sticking with the stock 3 toggle PCB.

 

I'm digging into a wiring gremlin that, if I can't chase down, I will be sending to TM to fix so I may just have them replace it when it's in for the other issue.

 

I may be back here with more questions regarding the wiring once I get time to open up the Halls Sensor housing to look over the state of affairs in there.

 

Markeebo

 

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