How To: Build a A-10 flight panel controller

would the momentary switch physically stay in the up position when you flip it on?

If DCS has the canopy switch modeled correctly the answer is yes.

It works like this:

Switch UP raises canopy (switch stays up if you let go)

Switch CENTER is HOLD (switch stays in center position if you let go)

Switch DOWN is CLOSE (switch springs back to HOLD if you let go)

So, to model this correctly you need a three position switch that has a momentary action on one switch position (ON-OFF-ON momentary).

Also DCS does not have the hold function of this switch in the Control Options to model it correctly for a physical switch, it is programmed as a toggle. So one way to get around this limitation is to use Helios to get this switch to act correctly. Helios is very good software, but documentation for noobys is sparse. I needed some :helpsmilie: to get this to work..... info here.

Note: I have not tested this with the current version of DCS.

:pilotfly:

Thanks for these helpful videos. I know ZERO about elctronics and wiring, but using your tutorial I am going to build my first A10C panel: The power panel (battery, inverter, etc.) Its been very hard to find the dimenstions for these or the other panels but I'll take my best guess on the sizes.

What type of wire (gauge) do I need to use? Do you use a different color for each swich position and for ground?

I'm going to build one panel at a time - get it working and then go on to the next panel - years from now when I've got all the panels done I'm assuming I will have several USB interfaces setup in the pit. There is a lot of swiches - maybe two interfaces per side and one for the front panel. Any problem with the sim recognizing more that one USB interface board?

Thanks

John

Tigershark - Thanks for that video I'm going to order the GP-Wiz40 and use it for my first panel project - the electrical panel. A few questions:

What type of wire should I use? I think they are listed by gauge type, right? Are there any other connectors or components - other than the switches that I need?

Thanks

Before you buy any interface, think of how many switches you gone use!!

you easily go beyond the limit the GP-Wiz40 have! They only support 4 units of GP-Wiz40 = 128 switches!

I started out with them, but now I use another with 256 switches in 1 interface!

Think if you gone use any encoders and whose interface you need to make them work.

And a interface to use LED in warnings-panels to....

Hope I make any sens...

Thanks for these helpful videos. I know ZERO about elctronics and wiring, but using your tutorial I am going to build my first A10C panel: The power panel (battery, inverter, etc.) Its been very hard to find the dimenstions for these or the other panels but I'll take my best guess on the sizes.

 

What type of wire (gauge) do I need to use? Do you use a different color for each swich position and for ground?

 

I'm going to build one panel at a time - get it working and then go on to the next panel - years from now when I've got all the panels done I'm assuming I will have several USB interfaces setup in the pit. There is a lot of swiches - maybe two interfaces per side and one for the front panel. Any problem with the sim recognizing more that one USB interface board?

 

Thanks

John

You can use whatever wire/cable you like. There is no spec on what kinda wire you gone use.

Take one that is easy to bend (soft), it makes it better to install.

I use very thin cable.

If you want to use different color its up to you :) Dont forget that you use one ground from interface to all switches on same interface! Dont draw one ground to each switch from interface!

The sim do not have any problems with the number of USB boards, it is Windows that sets the limit I think. And you can use enough to the whole sim.

As I said before, If you gone build many panels, you need more then 4 GP-Wiz!!

I use this http://forums.eagle.ru/showthread.php?t=80201

I use one in left side and one in right side, this means that I only need two USB connectors to my computer!

The drawback today is, that they dont support encoders yet, but they will soon. For now I can only use switches on it.

And it is a bit more complicated to use. You need to solder DIODS between the interface and every switch if you gone use more then 128 switches from it. So it is a bit more tricky to install.

I gone use one GP-Wiz to my UFC so I dont need to draw a cable to my interface. I plug it in on my desktop where I have USB hubs!

Hope you got any info that you need.

Strix

Tigershark - Thanks for that video I'm going to order the GP-Wiz40 and use it for my first panel project - the electrical panel. A few questions:

What type of wire should I use? I think they are listed by gauge type, right? Are there any other connectors or components - other than the switches that I need?

 

Thanks

Hey. Glad you liked the video. Like Strix said, the gauge doesn't matter. We are not dealing with currents that heavy duty here so the easiest or cheapest wire will do.

No other connectors are required but depending on which version of the GPWiz you buy you may need a soldering iron. If you don't want to solder be sure to get the version with screw connectors. Other than that all zoo need is switches, wire, a box and your GPWiz.

Take a look at Leo Bodnars inteface to! Expensive but more complete.

I'm guessing I'll probably use several boards to do a full cockpit so I can try the Leo Bodnars board next.

If I recall correctly the Leo Bodnars uses a 6 by 6 matrix to hook up everything. I had one for when I was building my x-plane panels. While it works great for push button stuff, you can get into issues with switches. Because the switch keeps the connection open the whole time - you could end up activating things you don't intend to.

I got the GPWiz 420 with the screws and it's been great so far. Switches work great and momentary works great.

Take a look at Leo Bodnars inteface to! Expensive but more complete.

it adds is number of analog axis and out of the box rotary encoder capability. if all one needs is buttons and toggles then GPWiz fits the bill perfectly, 32 buttons + 4 digital axis that can be translated into keystrokes (by joy2key or autohotkey). total of 40 inputs for 30$ (eco model shipped) vs 86$ at current exchange rate for BU0836X. bodnar's board with its solderless connectors is perhaps easier to work with , but i feel that those connectors are increasing the cost of the complete device quite a bit.

EDIT:

had he offered ECO version with just solder pads i'd be all over it

Following this thread very interested and I am also trying to build my own panels. But the first problem is to find usefull switches.

All switches I found are to small and too thin. Alwyas called "miniature switch", "microswitch" , etc, pp

AQny suggestion where to find thicker switches like on the TM Warthog Throttle ?? A source in europe would be great.

keep on this great work !

Tom

http://www.conrad.de/ce/de/category/SHOP_AREA_14745/Schalter-Taster;jsessionid=A32F788FFF7B897ADC06CB260C535C42.ASTPCCP10

This are some of the bigger ones:

(they even have this security types =pull to move)

http://www.conrad.de/ce/de/product/701043/KIPPSCHALTER-R13-404-SQ-GE/0216100&ref=list

http://www.conrad.de/ce/de/product/703116/KIPPSCHALTER-DPST/0216100&ref=list

http://www.conrad.de/ce/de/product/701852/APEM-Hebelschalter-Serie-12000-12146A-250-VAC-2-A/0216100&ref=list

http://www.conrad.de/ce/de/product/703180/MINIATUR-KIPPSCHALTER-SPDT/0216100&ref=list

http://www.conrad.de/ce/de/product/709389/KIPPHEBELSCHAL2POLON-MOM-BIS-15A/0216100&ref=list

Thanks .... but this is what I also found easily. At least are the switches too small in their diameter in conjunction to the switches used on the HOTAS. Push/Pull is also not usable.

At least is CONRAD very expensive.

I bought a full set of

http://www.pollin.de/shop/t/NzU4OTA5OTk-/Bauelemente_Bauteile/Mechanische_Bauelemente/Schalter_Taster/Kippschalter_taster_Serie_MTS.html

.. but all to thin/small :helpsmilie:

It looks wrong if you have panels in standart/original size and than this small sticky switches. Up to 3 Euro should fit for a simple one ... remember, we need around 100 :cry:

Thanks to TigersharkBAS for all the informaton wich helped me building my own HUD controle panel.

It uses the Leo Bodnar interface wich worked out perfectly.

Here my video of testing the panel.

Remind i am not building replica just functional.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8rdwvmPeQKU&feature=youtube_gdata_player

This was all covered in a few pages before. Short answer no. It only supports digital axes (on/off) and not the analog input you would get from a potentiometer.

 

 

As for cheaper...I have no idea. I guess you could try an Arduino board and build some stuff yourself but not sure if that would cheaper.

having only read the first 12 pages when i found this statement i have to disagree... i have the same gpwhiz 40 "orange" board... i havent wired it yet but have been reading around the net very thoroughly.. if you want to simply make an incremental dial.. like for increasing or decreasing the radio channel, or control trim the board supports two inputs for this... using a rotary encoder switch (not analog) like seen here http://www.ebay.com/itm/12mm-Rotary-Encoder-Switch-Keyswitch-10pcs-/110738057677?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item19c880a9cd which is what i bought for one of my builds.

encoders explained and demonstrated here http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nWPdzDcyLN8&feature=player_embedded#!

if you want to make a thumbwheel or slider (potentiometers) you could use a board like this instead of the gpwhiz

http://www.desktopaviator.com/Products/Model_2310-2312/index.htm

and for the switch/toggle pulse you could go with

http://www.desktopaviator.com/Products/Model_2120/index.htm

im wanting to build a collective stick for fsx... I worked on helicopters in the army, and fly rc helicopters as well :)

the other project for the gpwhiz is a faceplate to add more buttons to my g25 racing wheel.. the pads came from junk remotes as u see, bought the tactile switches from ebay...

Thanks to TigersharkBAS for all the informaton wich helped me building my own HUD controle panel.

It uses the Leo Bodnar interface wich worked out perfectly.

Here my video of testing the panel.

Remind i am not building replica just functional.

 

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8rdwvmPeQKU&feature=youtube_gdata_player

Well done :-) Glad I could help :-)

Nice find wingtip. The Desktop aviator device i mean.

they have alot of items... im still curious as to where you got the inserts to mount your gpwhiz... im wanting to build something like this

I need some advice!

I have made a couple of general use panels using the Leo boards and have used momentary switches. I want to toggle/latch LED's to some of the switches and I'm having a serious lack of success.

To date:

Attempt 1: JK flipflop circuit - no debounce. The LED's didn't toggle reliably

Attempt 2: As above but with a Schmidt inverter/trigger and debouce. Same result

Attempt 3: PIC (PICAXE18M2). Still unreliable on the breadboard and totally crazy when actually made!

Any good ideas? I'm using double pole switches so the signal to the LED side is independant of the USB controller.

TIA!

Ghost

Hi Tiger Shark,

I managed to edit the LUA files of A10 and Black Shark in order to solve the toggle switch issues like you showed in your video tutorials and it worked perfectly... wanted to do the same with FSX but couldnt find its LUA files... can you help me with that....

thanks

I don't think FSX uses LUA as it's scripting language.

Sorry but I have no idea how FSX works.

FSX does not use LUA. You have your choice of the FSX-native interfacing API called SimConnect, or FSUIPC, a third party interfacing utility which rides on top of SimConnect.

thanks tiger and mike... another thing tigerShark, based on your scripting tutorial i did find saitek cyborg evo LUA file in Black Shark Config/Input/Aircrafts/KA50/joystick/SaitekcyborgEVO and then edited it. But in DCS A10 it wasnt showing cyborg evo stick lua instead it was showing Saitek X52's LUA file... how come!!!! i never have that one at all/ or its a by deault file ... then why isnt it showing EVO's LUA file???

how come DCS A10 detects Saitek EVO Joystick in the keys configuration page but does not have Device Profile file in the Config/Input folder...???

thanks tiger and mike... another thing tigerShark, based on your scripting tutorial i did find saitek cyborg evo LUA file in Black Shark Config/Input/Aircrafts/KA50/joystick/SaitekcyborgEVO and then edited it. But in DCS A10 it wasnt showing cyborg evo stick lua instead it was showing Saitek X52's LUA file... how come!!!! i never have that one at all/ or its a by deault file ... then why isnt it showing EVO's LUA file???

Since quite some time your config files live in

Users/Your name/Saved Data/DCSA10...or soemthing like that.

They are not in your DCS A-10 directory but in your Users directory.