just bought Ka-50

I've just bought Ka-50.

got it downloaded and used my activation key.

set up a simple start-up mission and selected pilot type as player.

when I load the mission though the Ka-50acts as an AI and I can't get into the cockpit usin the f1 key.

am I missing something obvious. please.

:cry:

If you set up your own mission in ME, then you have to set it to Client or Player. If you don´t, the AI takes over.

If you set up your own mission in ME, then you have to set it to Client or Player. If you don´t, the AI takes over.

thanks crash, but it is set up as player

it is set up as player.

errr my bad as usual

I restarted DCS and now it runs OK.

Guess I need to learn some patience.

:doh:

To spare you a lot of frustration, imo the trick to the Ka-50 is constant trimming, or it will fight you.

To spare you a lot of frustration, imo the trick to the Ka-50 is constant trimming, or it will fight you.

ta... finding that out.

:)

And remember, the trimmer works by holding the button down, maneuvering to where you want, steadying the craft, and then letting the button up.

Does ur ka50 show the autopilot buttons light?

I bought mine one week ago and the buttons don t lit up.

Same for the nav system. When I press waypoint let s say a blue light should turn on..but it doesn t happen :(

@Gabi:

https://forums.eagle.ru/showpost.php?p=3890001&postcount=143

Welcome to the Shark Pack!

Here's the best writeup I've come across regarding the autopilot and stability augmentation. If you don't master this flying the Shark will be a nightmare!

http://www.simhq.com/_air13/air_426a.html

Does ur ka50 show the autopilot buttons light?

I bought mine one week ago and the buttons don t lit up.

Same for the nav system. When I press waypoint let s say a blue light should turn on..but it doesn t happen :(

ask for a refund till they will fix all the bugs :music_whistling:

Does ur ka50 show the autopilot buttons light?

I bought mine one week ago and the buttons don t lit up.

Same for the nav system. When I press waypoint let s say a blue light should turn on..but it doesn't t happen :(

My lights also do not light up on the Targeting mode control panel.

I pick up my KA50 a few months ago, put it in is's hanger in short order as I had a hard

time flying it. About a month ago I decided to give it another try but this time read the manual and take on one feature at a time. I am having a much better time with it now. Still learning

the basics but I find I like flying it more than any other copter or plane in DCS.

I would like ED put out the ka50 - 2.

Also besides the manual that comes with getting the Ka50, get the one that Chuck puts out, For me easier to follow.

Welcome! I’ve been at it for years and it still challenges. The beauty of the module. Keep at it and take it slow. One feature at a time is the only way.

And remember, the trimmer works by holding the button down, maneuvering to where you want, steadying the craft, and then letting the button up.

Haven't had this discussion in a while. ;)

First of all, I strongly disagree with you.

Second, I do it exactly the same way.

But with the Ka-50 more than any other DCS helicopter, I believe that every player needs to find their own way of using the trim, be it many trim clicks in quick succession, long trim presses, or disabling certain channels of the AP.

It's not important what works for you, or for me. It's important what works for those we give advice to, and maybe they'll struggle for a long time until they figure out another method works much better for them.

Same goes for Flight Director. I'm sure we could make some strong points against, or in favor of, FD, but if it helps new pilots to struggle less and enjoy more, then that's the way to go IMO (whether they use it or not, or only sometimes).

So, remember, whatever works best for you is fine, but the more you know about the trim and the stability augmentation system, the better you'll be able to have the Black Shark work for you instead of fighting it.

My 0.02€ anyway. :smartass:

Haven't had this discussion in a while. ;)

 

First of all, I strongly disagree with you.

 

Second, I do it exactly the same way.

 

But with the Ka-50 more than any other DCS helicopter, I believe that every player needs to find their own way of using the trim, be it many trim clicks in quick succession, long trim presses, or disabling certain channels of the AP.

 

It's not important what works for you, or for me. It's important what works for those we give advice to, and maybe they'll struggle for a long time until they figure out another method works much better for them.

 

Same goes for Flight Director. I'm sure we could make some strong points against, or in favor of, FD, but if it helps new pilots to struggle less and enjoy more, then that's the way to go IMO (whether they use it or not, or only sometimes).

 

So, remember, whatever works best for you is fine, but the more you know about the trim and the stability augmentation system, the better you'll be able to have the Black Shark work for you instead of fighting it.

 

My 0.02€ anyway. :smartass:

This ^

So what advice would that be then? "Just fly and figure out what works for you"?

If the stated trimmer use is common practice (and probably the procedure used in real life) then it's as good of a starting point as any. It's better to try and then deviate than fumble around in the darkness.

You should always keep the 3 autopilot channels on at all times. It has 2 functions, a stability augmentation system that smooths out the pilot's inputs, and the hold channel that tries to hold the helicopter at the last-trimmed attitude. Some people recommend turning off the channel that's giving you trouble (for example, turn off heading hold if you want to change your heading), but this is not good practice because it will also turn off the SAS for that channel.

When the trimmer button is pressed down, it will do 2 things:

1. Disable the "hold this attitude" part of the auto-pilot, but keep the SAS portion engaged (in fact, SAS is always engaged as long as the autopilot channels are solidly lit and not flashing).

2. Disengage the magnetic brake on the cyclic.

When the trimmer button is released, it will do 2 things:

1. Program the autopilot to hold the aircraft's current attitude.

2. Re-engage the magnetic brake on the cyclic.

In real life and with a force feedback joystick, you'll want to tap the trimmer, because holding it down will disable the magnetic brake and make the cyclic go limp, which is undesirable. With a spring-based joystick, it doesn't matter because the springs will always act on the joystick.

The Flight Director button only does one thing. When it's on, it will disable the "hold this attitude" part of the auto-pilot, but aside from adding some symbology to the HUD, it does nothing else. For a FFB stick, this means that it will fly as if you're holding down the trimmer, but the magnetic brake will stay engaged. For a spring-based joystick, this will have the exact same effect as holding down the trimmer, since the magnetic brake has no effect on a spring-based stick. Personally, I find it odd that people don't recommend Flight Director more, since it essentially gives direct control to the player without the auto-pilot interfering, but still keeps the SAS engaged.

If you want the most "authentic" experience, you should fly with a FFB stick and repeatedly tap the trimmer. If you only have, or prefer to use a spring-based joystick, then either tapping or holding will be fine since the end result is the same. Just don't ever disable the autopilot channels.

In real life and with a force feedback joystick, you'll want to tap the trimmer, because holding it down will disable the magnetic brake and make the cyclic go limp, which is undesirable.

Could you elaborate on why having a limp stick is undesirable? I'm using an MSFFB2 myself, and I was under the impression that most helis - unlike fixed wing aircraft - don't tend to self-center (except via these force trim systems). Wouldn't this mean that a limp stick is perfectly normal for maneuvering? Quick taps makes it sound as though it's something to avoid.

Could you elaborate on why having a limp stick is undesirable? I'm using an MSFFB2 myself, and I was under the impression that most helis - unlike fixed wing aircraft - don't tend to self-center (except via these force trim systems). Wouldn't this mean that a limp stick is perfectly normal for maneuvering? Quick taps makes it sound as though it's something to avoid.

They are limb cyclics, you don't want to loose grip from cyclic as it will fall off without trimming.

Why the trimming can be done with constantly pressing is to avoid over controlling. While holding down trim is totally normal operation a by design made so that you can perform larger controls easily.

If you are just cruising and doing small corrections, multiple press is good way, of you fly in combat or perform maneuvers, you hold it.

In other words, magnetic breaks allows you to go "hands free", and that is the point, when you can go hands free, you trim it there.

Between maneuvers etc, you don't ever let go from controls. So you need and can hold trim down.

Also, the "hold the button for trim and then release" has a little problem. You need to recenter the joystick to make new inputs. I've crashed more than once because of that, specially when doing low altitude hard manouvers...

console lights aren't working hope they will fix that on big update

Also, the "hold the button for trim and then release" has a little problem. You need to recenter the joystick to make new inputs.

This is not true if you hav a FFB stick or the trimmer method "without spring and FFB" enabled. I have a long stick (PFT Lynx) without springs/center detent but with friction adjustments, so I can leave the stick in whatever position I like and still have low enough friction for it to be almost unnoticed. When I switched to the "without spring and FFB" setting when it arrived a few years back, I automatically without being aware of it myself also switched to the (frenetically) clicking method in almost every situation except emergency dodging incoming fire. For many years before I had used the default trimmer method and press-n-hold.

Also, regarding the press-n-hold method. You need to hold the button while the helicopter is settling in a stable attitude (including any changes due to collective adjustments), or else you might get problems. Basically:

Press button, adjust cyclic (and/or collective, remember the collective brake release!), let the helicopter change attitude, make any controller adjustments until satisfied with attitude, keep the button pressed!, let the helicopter settle completely, now release the button.

Also, regarding the press-n-hold method. You need to hold the button while the helicopter is settling in a stable attitude (including any changes due to collective adjustments), or else you might get problems. Basically:

Press button, adjust cyclic (and/or collective, remember the collective brake release!), let the helicopter change attitude, make any controller adjustments until satisfied with attitude, keep the button pressed!, let the helicopter settle completely, now release the button.

No need for that, as you can very well mix the two methods.

When you need to maneuver, you can't do clicking method, and when you work with rockets and cannon, you don't want to fight against AP in the moment of firing.

It is like CCRP v. CCIP method, both have their times and places... But they don't do same thing.

Also, the "hold the button for trim and then release" has a little problem. You need to recenter the joystick to make new inputs. I've crashed more than once because of that, specially when doing low altitude hard manouvers...

Using FF sick that was never the problem as you fly realistically. Same thing with now VKB gunfighter base, you set it springless and tighten friction Screws and that cyclic will stay at the position where you leave it.

Last thing I ever want to do is try flying with spring loaded stick.

Could you elaborate on why having a limp stick is undesirable?

It removes all force on the stick, like the springs have magically disappeared. The stick becomes very loose with no tension on it, and you can easily make over-corrections because there's nothing to push against. It also makes it harder to tell how far you're moving the stick because the force doesn't get stronger as you move away from the last-trimmed position.

Also, the "hold the button for trim and then release" has a little problem. You need to recenter the joystick to make new inputs.

I've deliberately avoided mentioning the center trimmer modes because it's a separate topic that warrants its own section. The center trimmer modes are a workaround for spring-based joysticks and are a kludge, though a necessary one. They add a layer of complexity that doesn't exist in the real aircraft, if you're using a FFB stick, or if you have a joystick without springs but has friction locks that will hold the joystick in a single position.