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I get a fluctuating number, but moving the sensor doesn't have any effect.

 

EDIT: Tested a toe brake. That one registers properly.... mostly. It sits high, like ouput says 971. When I push the brake, it increase to 1000 then resets to 0 and starts count up again from there. Releasing the pedal goes back to zero/1000 and down the 971.

.

 

You can test the controller with an common potentiometer, and see if axis input work OK or not.

 

But you don't mention nothing about calibration, is the first thing to do, even before think in test axes.

 

I bet that problem is not the USB controller - the Arduino+MMJoy2, is the magnet and Hall sensor replacement. This "kick back" in brake axis is typical of misplacement of magnet.

Just buy a BU0836 will no solve this.

 

Read in this topic how the guy set - after many trial and errors, a HALL sensor + Magnet. Is the "Achilles hell" of DIY Hall sensor assembly.

 

https://riseofflight.com/forum/topic/26026-hall-sensor-wireing-simped/#entry365976

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You can test the controller with an common potentiometer, and see if axis input work OK or not.

 

But you don't mention nothing about calibration, is the first thing to do, even before think in test axes.

 

I bet that problem is not the USB controller - the Arduino+MMJoy2, is the magnet and Hall sensor replacement. This "kick back" in brake axis is typical of misplacement of magnet.

Just buy a BU0836 will no solve this.

 

Read in this topic how the guy set - after many trial and errors, a HALL sensor + Magnet. Is the "Achilles hell" of DIY Hall sensor assembly.

 

https://riseofflight.com/forum/topic/26026-hall-sensor-wireing-simped/#entry365976

 

I'm not using a DIY sensor though. Looks just like a pot but the hall sensor is inside it. I'm using these from digikey

https://www.digikey.com/products/en?keywords=6127V1A360L.5FS

 

Could very well be a bad sensor, but I don't want to give up on it yet

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But after define the axes in MMjoySetup you did the calibration -in Mmjoy2Setup, don't use Windows (obsolete) Games Controller.

 

Try increasing the filter valued.

 

I use one of this Bi-Tech 6127 in TQS and work well, but the controller are TUSBA.

 

BTW - You sensor is 360º of "effective electric angle", in calibration processes you need turn all 360º. if you turn less the full resolution of ADC , e.g. 10 bits 1-24 points is nor achieved, because the voltage variation is not 0 ~5v.

This 360º model is good for yoke, steering wheel, trim wheel... but not good for joystick, throttle, pedals.

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... remove my sensors from the pedals and turn them during calibration, save the settings, then install the sensors.

As for why I grabbed them... they were in the BOM listed on the thingiverse and prusa pages.

 

 

As above this 360º sensor is not recommend for pedal brake axes.

 

If you calibrate then manually will achieve around 1024 points (10 bits) in 360º, but when put in pedal they will turn only ~30º, what means that voltage variation in this limited angle will represent only ~85 points of resolution for the USB controller.

 

If you use original pot carcass as base and DIY assembly an Honeywell SS495A1, Allegro A1324LUAT, Microchip SS49E... you achieve more resolution.

 

Using Allegro in this crude DIY arrange I achieve more than 950 points in brakes axis, using MMJoy2 as controller (10 bits/1024 points) for Ch pedal brake axis.

 

Brake.jpg

 

Nothing wrong with Bi-Tech sensor, just this model is not suitable for the job.

Bi-Tech 612x series has models between 35 and 360 degrees, e.g. 60, 90, 180...


Edited by Sokol1_br
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in calibration processes you need turn all 360º. if you turn less the full resolution of ADC , e.g. 10 bits 1-24 points is nor achieved, because the voltage variation is not 0 ~5v.

Wrong. Calibration always needs to be done for the actual angle- this is exactly what it's done for. Otherwise you won't get a full range of OUTPUT signal for the particular axis. However the INPUT signal with the 360 deg. sensor will be much smaller, so much of the ADC resolution will be lost, as you correctly mentioned.

I would strongly recommend using AS5600 sensor- calibrating it after installation (before MMJoy calibration) you'll get a full 0-5V voltage swing for any angle more than 18 degrees without any hassle with the magnet/ sensor positioning as with SSxx or Allegro sensors.

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FreeJoy project. I've switched to it from MMJoy2 (which is very good) for my own projects. More flexible, works with the same sensor types as MMJoy, much more user-friendly configurator software, well-documented. Constantly evolves based on community feedback, but is 100% stable already now. The board (STM-32 based) is as cheap as ProMicro.

 

Hey Sergey,

I have followed the freejoy project since its inception and it has progressed splendidly. However one major drawback I came across is the really really cheap voltage reg of the blue pill boards, which makes the internal ADCs useless imo. Have you experimented with external voltage regs, like a 7805 or something? Ideally would be a LDO reg which can be supplied via 5V USB, like a MIC5219 used on Arduinos. You are also using Sprint layout if I remember correctly? Id really love to switch to the STMs for some projects, but I would much prefer using the internal ADCs.

Kind regards


Edited by rel4y

Cougar, CH and Saitek PnP hall sensor kits + shift registers: https://forums.eagle.ru/showthread.php?t=220916

 

Shapeways store for DIY flight simming equipment and repair: https://www.shapeways.com/shops/rel4y-diy-joystick-flight-simming

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Have you experimented with external voltage regs, like a 7805 or something?

Hey rel4y,

No I haven't. So far I used the blue pill's internal ADC with AS5600's in a throttle quadrant project without any noise-related problems. Maybe I'm lucky with the USB ports on my PC... Anyway I consider the internal ADC as an auxiliary functionality- TLE5011 (or TLE5012 after it's included in the firmware, as promised) would be my sensor choice.

And yes, I'm using Sprint Layout but no plans for any FreeJoy shields so far.

Best regards

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has anyone had an Arduino micro die from being in storage unplugged?

 

Dug out an old throttle I made using MMJOY2 and it shows up as a USB gamepad but opening it's properties gives an error.

 

I can't get it to load into the mmjoy2 interface either

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opening it's properties gives an error.

 

If this "properties" means Windows Game Controllers the error there indicate error in (Windows) register.*

Clear (Windows) Register for the entries for your MMJoy2 name and enter again in MMjoySetup, using another VID/PID number. Eg. instead 88888/88888 use 88889/88889.

 

* This error don't prevines test the device with VJB JoyTester neither use in games, is thing of Windows obsolete Game Controllers.


Edited by Sokol1_br
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If this "properties" means Windows Game Controllers the error there indicate error in (Windows) register.*

Clear (Windows) Register for the entries for your MMJoy2 name and enter again in MMjoySetup, using another VID/PID number. Eg. instead 88888/88888 use 88889/88889.

 

* This error don't prevines test the device with VJB JoyTester neither use in games, is thing of Windows obsolete Game Controllers.

 

Okay so the mmjoy2 device shows up in VKB tester, I deleted the reg keys using USBDeview but it still errors out in the windows usb gamepads, and mmjoy2 still gives that error on bootup

 

edit: So I change the VID/PID from 6666/6666 to 6669/6669 [nice] and now it works in USB Gamepad properties! Must have been a haunted vid/pid number?

Unfortunately mmjoy2 program itself gives me the "device cannot be identified" error still

Capture.thumb.PNG.d1e765134c92356b51667966adaeef15.PNG


Edited by TomVR
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