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Inside view of TM HOTAS Warthog


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So called 'lack of smoothness' while trying to slowly apply low X/Y stick movement - get rid of that f*****g crappy grease and neatly apply few drops engine oil - works like a charm.

 

hmmm, haven't tried engine oil yet, interesting, but does it last long? Will the engine oil stay where it needs to be?

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hmmm, haven't tried engine oil yet, interesting, but does it last long? Will the engine oil stay where it needs to be?

 

Have it for about week. Can't say a bad word so far. Oil stays there. I made those sphere shaped plastics/ball joint connection area 'touch wet' and postioned upside down for an hour with just a 1 drop excessive oil coming down removed thereafter. Works well. I will know when there won't be any lubrication there because i did try to use stick completely dry without any grease and its way not precise and generates friction-movement noise...

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Have it for about week. Can't say a bad word so far. Oil stays there. I made those sphere shaped plastics/ball joint connection area 'touch wet' and postioned upside down for an hour with just a 1 drop excessive oil coming down removed thereafter. Works well. I will know when there won't be any lubrication there because i did try to use stick completely dry without any grease and its way not precise and generates friction-movement noise...

Ok, well, I'm a bit tired of opening and closing my Warthog, so I will ask you again in one month if it is still smooth.


Edited by Frazer

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I would be cautious with any petroleum product on plastic parts.

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Sweet!

Can you post a high res picture and explain how you extended it?

 

Prelude.

Actually my mega-project was collapsed, cause pipes I've going to use was out-of-stock. As usually. So I've forced to buy smthg similar. Shop's rule obligate me to buy one pipe entirely. 4 meters. Now I'm a proud owner of 7,3 meters of useless plastic pipes. ^)

End of prelude.

 

How to(at your own risk):

Part one.

You need 150mm of plastic pipe. External diameter 20mm. Usually plastic pipes become soft on heat.

So - cut 150mm of pipe. Unscrew Warthog stick. Add heat on the end of pipe(kitchen gas-cooker in my case). Place hot-n-soft pipe to one of stick's half with force(thanx God Warthog is metall one). Repeat process with second half of the stick. Cut any unwanted plastic drops. Cure all burns and wounds. Repeat if nessesary.

Last step here - place hot pipe in to one half of stick and assemble stick. Let it cool.

Part two.

Other end. Cut two 2-3cm lines. Add heat on this end. Put hot pipe and clamp(donno in english - that silverish ajustable stuff) on Warthog shaft . Tight clamp slightly. Let it cool. Tight clamp.

Part three.

Lengthen the wires. Assemble the joystick. Have fun.

 

 

Warning: this photo created via old mobile phone. I've warned you )

http://journals.ru/attach/279/27841/950114.jpg

Всех убью, один останусь!

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That so needs to go on http://www.thereifixedit.com

 

:D

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It works. So who care! :)))

 

No arguments there. But you are one redneck russkie. :D

 

That's awesome man. :thumbup:

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Self test:

Pull the stick back as slowly as you can.

You will notice "bumbs" which can subscribed as "stickyness".

 

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Noticed the ultra small bumps when moving back the stick last month and immediatly requested a new unit from TM. Doesn't have any bumps any more with my new WH.

 

You should contact TM.

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Noticed the ultra small bumps when moving back the stick last month and immediatly requested a new unit from TM. Doesn't have any bumps any more with my new WH.

 

You should contact TM.

 

They just added more red goop. It is definitely a lube problem.

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Frazer, I've been thinking of joining the WartHog Owners Association (WHOA?) but I wanted to have a look under the hood, so thanks for the photos. This is no doubt obvious to everyone else, but what prevents the socket/grip from rotating horizontally - ie twisting?

 

Also, for those thinking of extending the stick, you might consider making a screw-on extension. Here's one I came across a while back made out of garden hose?

 

http://forums.eagle.ru/showthread.php?t=39694

 

If you prefer cold steel, I made one for my Cougar a few years ago with a couple of hydraulic fittings. If I was doing it again I would try to persuade one of the guys that have modded their Cougar to part with the center shaft from their old gimbals - just epoxy into the top of the extension.

 

extension-parts"]extension-parts

 

extension"]extension

 

9T

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Have it for about week. Can't say a bad word so far. Oil stays there. I made those sphere shaped plastics/ball joint connection area 'touch wet' and postioned upside down for an hour with just a 1 drop excessive oil coming down removed thereafter. Works well. I will know when there won't be any lubrication there because i did try to use stick completely dry without any grease and its way not precise and generates friction-movement noise...

 

 

And you know what...? You are right! Yes, it seems thar the key is the rubber ring and the upper ball joint! Heavy lubed with silicon oil (made for airsoft aeg's) the stickiness has nearly gone! Thank you for your great advice, it helped me! :thumbup::pilotfly:


Edited by 59th_Bird

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Btw, that's stickiness (not stickyness) and stiction (not sticktion) everyone. Don't tell me I'm not a stickler! :megalol:

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I ll stick wherener and wenever i want, Icktion or no Yness !!! :D

 

A rubber band ? Damn when my warthog pass the custom and pass the mail barrier i think before plugging it i gonna dismount it and grease it all over... inside of course, now i m curious.


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Hello,

 

I dont own a TM WT but i allmost bought myself for christmas. Now reading about the "stickyness" i know exactly what you mean. I have the saitek Proflight Yoke for FS9. Inside de shaft is made out of metal but the busses where the shaft moves within are made of Nylon. The yoke is great to fly with but when it comes to very tiny adjustments when coming in for landing on ILS at 6 miles off at 3000 ft with a 747-400 (PMDG) IFR its just not done, because the metal sticks to the nylon. Why..why no ball bearings? Also for the TM WT: Why no ball bearings? For such a device ate that price, make it good. Sorry TM, im gonna skipp the WT and im going to investigate the X65F.

 

Thanks for the headsup on this!!

Without sollutions there aren't any problems

 

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If someone finds the right grease... share with the world in bold capitals! I think this could be a "sticking point" for WH users for some time, if you pardon the pun. The problem is that TM tried to make a stick that is center-mounted in the real aircraft, into a desktop replica. If it was taller and designed to be mounted to the floor, this problem might not exist.

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A ball bearing mod, and/or perhaps replacing both ball and socket with stainless steel is probably going to be the U2/NXT-type mod for the WH. It still wouldn't be as fluid as a Cougar with U2/NXT, but it would be an awesome mod.

 

Then again, a lot of WH users are quite satisfied. Not sure what the market would be for an overhaul. Me personally, I doub't I'd be willing to pay to upgrade my WH. Granted, it's definitely a different feel, and not as good as my Cougar U2/NXT (feel-wise), but it's not bad at all either.

 

I do see the wisdom in the WH design in that it really cannot develop slack/play, even if it does start to wear. What you got, is what you got, 5 years later. I guess the engineers knew they needed to balance longevity, reliability and performance against 'feel'. I think they struck a nice balance, though only time will tell but if you look at the design, wear & tear cannot introduce play/inaccuracy, so to that end, the WH should have a very long life, modded or not.

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