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Inside view of TM HOTAS Warthog


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I use a reduced power center spring made from the same material than the original. The original spring made from a 4mm diameter wire, mine has been made from a 3mm one. The number of loops are the same then the original. Its power is nearly similar than the four small sping's. Now wiht this nearly equal but opposing power (from the under side wiht the four small spring, from the upper side with the large center spring) the stick has no hard centerpoint, moves smoothly, but not too light.

TM Warthog no.00128

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The original spring made from a 4mm diameter wire, mine has been made from a 3mm one. The number of loops are the same then the original.

 

any tips on making a spring or getting one made? what are the measurements required. A local company can make custom springs but I have no idea of load in Newtons etc that would be required.

 

I'd be very keen on getting a spring with a little bit less force.


Edited by spikenet
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I had a static friction problem with my Warthog stick, and when I opened her up there was not enough grease on the ball joint. I bought a can of M-kote EM-30L lube off ebay and coated the inner ball and outer ball with this new grease after cleaning off the old stuff. I also put a coat on the rubber ring that sits on top the ball(the one someone has had problems with de-laminating). This rubber ring was previously completely dry. This has really improved the static friction problem for me, the stick is much smoother. You could probably just borrow some stock grease from the spring as well.

 

One tip, for those of you whose Warthog doesn't center perfectly and or has center play, try rotating the plastic retainer that sits on top of the ball and spring from it's original position when reassembling. My stick had some play in the y axis when I first re-assembled it, and when I took it back apart I rotated the top retainer until the stick now has no play and will center perfectly in the x and y. Not a guaranteed fix, but worth a try.

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  • 2 months later...

I've had my TM Warthog for a couple of months now and now it's starting to feel a bit stickier than it was. When I got it was fine, so I figure it's probably a grease issue. What is an appropriate grease to use? Could greasing the top of the ball, where it's exposed, do anything, perhaps to avoid having to open the stick up?

 

Thanks!

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No - greasing the exposed surface of the ball won't help - that's not the contact surface.

"Tank! I need a program for a TM Warthog!"

 

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  • 2 months later...

Vega,

 

You are a god among men, sir. My Warthog Hotas shipped with sticktion from the day I got it! And 2 weeks later it go so bad that CH joysticks were feeling better.

 

I found your post, ordered the Molykote and just finished applying it. WOW!!! What a difference. It's just night and day. I've never handled a smoother stick.

 

One thing, though. You said you were able to remove the bushings in the inner sphere and lubricate them too. This was the one thing I was unable to do. I applied plenty of Molykote on the pins with a needle but I couldn't actually get the bushings off. How did you do it? I tried pushing them out from the inside but I didn't want to push any harder than I was. I didn't want to try to pry them out from the outside because that's a friction surface for the ball!

 

Thanks again. I'd buy you a beer if you lived in the greater WI area.

 

-cow

 

I just got done removing the stock TM grease and adding a light coating of Dow Corning Molykote EM-30L lithium soap designed for plastic on plastic. What a world of difference. Now I can make one finger joystick movements with no stiction.

 

I went through tons of rags and alcohol to get rid of all that garbage TM puts in there. That stuff is so thick and gooey and they use too much of it. That is what is making all of the problems. I would stay away from anything thick like wheel bearing grease or any petroleum products.

 

I put a thin layer on all of the contact points. The main rotator cup, the half sphere. I removed the two pins holding the inner lower half sphere and lubed those up as they are just bushings. Another thing I noticed is they didn't grease the main spring pressure plate at all where it actually contacts the top of the rotator cuff.

 

Anyways, if you do get inside to change out all of the lubrication be very gentle. Those little wires and connectors are super fragile! Let's just say I had to break out the soldering iron. ;)

 

http://www.dowcorning.com/content/news/molykote_news_EM30L.asp

 

http://cgi.ebay.com/DOW-MOLYKOTE-EM-30L-Synthetic-PAO-Grease-Plastics-/270666662674?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item3f04fd8312#ht_2266wt_1144

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My guess is that it's inside the spherical joint. This is based on the fact that I've had mine apart several times, apart from the innermost sphere, and never seen any o-ring of that size.

Win10 x64 | SSDs | i5 2500K @ 4.4 GHz | 16 GB RAM | GTX 970 | TM Warthog HOTAS | Saitek pedals | TIR5

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  • 2 months later...

Just wanted to mention that I, too, recently tried the 'removing the big spring' thing and I agree -- totally different feel now; much, much improved. I may try to buy some washers to tighten the feel a bit more, and I do need to grease my WH up, but man ... I can actually move the stick precisely now and not strain my arm in the process. Great find!

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  • 7 months later...

Contact thrustmaster support..they are very good and will definitely help.

WHISPR | Intel I7 5930K | Nvidia GTX980 4GB GDDR5 | 16GB DDR4 | Intel 730 series 512GB SSD | Thrustmaster WARTHOG | CH Pro Pedals | TrackIR4 pro |

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  • 2 years later...

Team,

5 years ago I've replaced stock grease of my Warthog with "motul chain lube road".

Today I've opened it to review. And this motul still there and working. Ball looks like a new.

I'm writing this just to share my excitement, my Warthog is #00175 and still in perfect condition with this motul grease.

Всех убью, один останусь!

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Team,

5 years ago I've replaced stock grease of my Warthog with "motul chain lube road".

Today I've opened it to review. And this motul still there and working. Ball looks like a new.

I'm writing this just to share my excitement, my Warthog is #00175 and still in perfect condition with this motul grease.

Really?!?!?

This one?? I use that on my bike!

 

C2.jpg

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  • 9 months later...

Inside view of TM HOTAS Warthog

 

Hi Frazer, can you share to me the correct axis for precision flying, you are very good in formation i hope you can help me

 

Jr

 

 

Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


Edited by rnm2000
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  • 2 weeks later...

Might as well ask in this thread, are there any good alternatives to the warthog stick base?

I really like the stick, but the base is a bit of an issue for me. Something that would work with up to 20cm extension. Is it possible to use baurs products this way? Like the base+warthog grip, while keeping the buttons functioning. I don't care if it does not support target software, I dont really use that anyway.

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Yes, you can use Baur base + Warthog grip, a extended model BRD-D-N will come with thread part for just bolt the grip "PnP.

 

http://forum.il2sturmovik.ru/uploads/monthly_08_2016/post-842-0-80183200-1472574218.jpg

http://forum.il2sturmovik.ru/topic/2087-obzor-igrovogo-komplekta-ot-brd/page-18#entry443905

http://forum.il2sturmovik.ru/topic/2087-obzor-igrovogo-komplekta-ot-brd/page-18#entry443912

 

Take in mind that with new base the joystick don't use more Warthog electronics, so is no more 'Thrustmaster joystick' and you can't use the "press joy button to press keys..." TARGET. ;)

 

Other option will be VKB Gunfighter base... to be produced next year. Be sure.™ :music_whistling:


Edited by Sokol1_br
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Yes, you can use Baur base + Warthog grip, a extended model BRD-D-N will come with thread part for just bolt the grip "PnP.

my knowledge of Russian is tolko nemnogo so these links don't help me much.

Do you have a link to the Baur website (assuming there is an English or German one)?

LeCuvier

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