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RAM 2x16GB vs 8x8GB.. any suggestions?


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I didnt wanna sound rude or put you in a bad light.

 

The manual has pics/ scheme layout printed that makes it easier to understand with 1 look than 1000 words can do.

 

Usually ( there are rare exceptions ) you populate the 2nd and 4th slot with modules if you only have 2. The reason for 2nd and 4th is signal integrity. If you put two modules in Slot 1 and 3 it may or may not work, 2 and 4 is to be preferred.

 

If you have 4 modules, use all 4, fairly simple and easy.... Just in your special case with 2 kits, it is advised to keep the kits on one channel each, Kit#1 does Channel 1 and Kit #2 serves Channel 2, then your chances are far higher it will work as if you shuffle them and use a mixed layout with 1 Channel populated with 1 module from Kit #1 and 1 module from Kit #2. That has less chances to work and is not recommended. Keep the kits together, mark them with a pencil if needed. 1 matched kit per channel.

 

If they dont boot, change the kit's channel, move kit#1 to channel #2 and vice versa. That can help but if it comes that far chances are high they wont run properly.

 

In any case, when you missed that page you left half the bandwidth on the table. That's when I thought pointing to RTFM could have saved you there but I do get the point of too much new stuff in too little time, no worries, I wanna help and not accuse. :)

 

Ok, I guess I got "offended" a little too easy as well :P

 

I'll take your advise, mark both sets and pair 'em in 1A, 2A and 1B, 2B

System specs:

 

i7-8700K @stock speed - GTX 1080TI @ stock speed - AsRock Extreme4 Z370 - 32GB DDR4 @3GHz- 500GB SSD - 2TB nvme - 650W PSU

HP Reverb G1 v2 - Saitek Pro pedals - TM Warthog HOTAS - TM F/A-18 Grip - TM Cougar HOTAS (NN-Dan mod) & (throttle standalone mod) - VIRPIL VPC Rotor TCS Plus with ALPHA-L grip - Pointctrl & aux banks <-- must have for VR users!! - Andre's SimShaker Jetpad - Fully adjustable DIY playseat - VA+VAICOM

 

~ That nuke might not have been the best of ideas, Sir... the enemy is furious ~ GUMMBAH

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Keep in mind that DDR5 comes out in like two years.

 

DDR5 is already obsolete, DDR6 is just around the corner for RAM, it is now used for VRAM but there the DDR7 is already on the planning...

i7-8700k, 32GB 2666Mhz DDR4, 2x 2080S SLI 8GB, Oculus Rift S.

i7-8700k, 16GB 2666Mhz DDR4, 1080Ti 11GB, 27" 4K, 65" HDR 4K.

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I mis-read or just missed the page of my motherboard manual where this particular info was explained.

 

After you build your first PC, you will rarely have to reference manuals. With the major exception being for the motherboard. I've built over a dozen PCs over the years and I always refer to the manual for any quirks and unique features of the board as these can vary a lot from vendor to vendor and chipset to chipset. My last 3 builds have been all on ASUS motherboards but things like error codes, CMOS, BIOS recovery, and overclocking features have all varied. Make sure you keep it handy. If you lose it or if it's more convenient you can usually pull up a PDF for it from the vendor's website as well.

 

Bitmaster helps a lot of people on these boards and he's looking out for your best interests when he advises to learn these things. It will pay dividends in the future and prevent expensive mistakes.

 

 

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The thing is, it's not written in bright yellow and bold letters on those motherboards and if you are new to the matter, dumb things will happen.

 

Actually, you, sirrah, only did a mistake that is easily reverted. There are things that if they go wrong directly set you back by many hundred bucks, like the 110/220v trick on the PSU ( man, that was a BANG hihi LOL ). You only make those mistakes once usually but they do happen if work with it, be it out of not knowing or just because not really paying attention tho you actually know better.

 

I have done lots of stupid stuff with PC#s over the last 30 years and I know that I am not failure proof, things do happen. my only help is my own kick in the butt to RTFM before I do things I havent done before.

 

Anyway, once the 2-module Kit arrives, take the cooler OFF and place them in the proper slots and test. It's a pitty you have to take the cooler off for the first 2 (?) slots, so testing is rather expensive and a hassle due to thermal compound being used up, but hey, next time, you know that such coolers suck and that there are ones that allow you to work Slot 1 + 2 with the cooler still in place. Waterblocks are unbeaten in this respect but have their own disadvantages ( over time ).

 

If the cooler thing is managable, test the new kit on its own in 2nd and 4th slot, see if they XMP. if they do, insert the old kit in Slot 1 and 3 and hope the best, the ONE BEEP :)

 

If they dont, come back and we'll see what can be done other than sending them back.

Gigabyte Aorus X570S Master - Ryzen 5900X - Gskill 64GB 3200/CL14@3600/CL14 - Asus 1080ti EK-waterblock - 4x Samsung 980Pro 1TB - 1x Samsung 870 Evo 1TB - 1x SanDisc 120GB SSD - Heatkiller IV - MoRa3-360LT@9x120mm Noctua F12 - Corsair AXi-1200 - TiR5-Pro - Warthog Hotas - Saitek Combat Pedals - Asus PG278Q 27" QHD Gsync 144Hz - Corsair K70 RGB Pro - Win11 Pro/Linux - Phanteks Evolv-X 

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The thing is, it's not written in bright yellow and bold letters on those motherboards and if you are new to the matter, dumb things will happen.

 

Actually, you, sirrah, only did a mistake that is easily reverted. There are things that if they go wrong directly set you back by many hundred bucks, like the 110/220v trick on the PSU ( man, that was a BANG hihi LOL ). You only make those mistakes once usually but they do happen if work with it, be it out of not knowing or just because not really paying attention tho you actually know better.

 

I have done lots of stupid stuff with PC#s over the last 30 years and I know that I am not failure proof, things do happen. my only help is my own kick in the butt to RTFM before I do things I havent done before.

 

Anyway, once the 2-module Kit arrives, take the cooler OFF and place them in the proper slots and test. It's a pitty you have to take the cooler off for the first 2 (?) slots, so testing is rather expensive and a hassle due to thermal compound being used up, but hey, next time, you know that such coolers suck and that there are ones that allow you to work Slot 1 + 2 with the cooler still in place. Waterblocks are unbeaten in this respect but have their own disadvantages ( over time ).

 

If the cooler thing is managable, test the new kit on its own in 2nd and 4th slot, see if they XMP. if they do, insert the old kit in Slot 1 and 3 and hope the best, the ONE BEEP :)

 

If they dont, come back and we'll see what can be done other than sending them back.

 

Luckily I only have to remove the cooler fan in order to reach the slots and not the entire cooler itself :)

System specs:

 

i7-8700K @stock speed - GTX 1080TI @ stock speed - AsRock Extreme4 Z370 - 32GB DDR4 @3GHz- 500GB SSD - 2TB nvme - 650W PSU

HP Reverb G1 v2 - Saitek Pro pedals - TM Warthog HOTAS - TM F/A-18 Grip - TM Cougar HOTAS (NN-Dan mod) & (throttle standalone mod) - VIRPIL VPC Rotor TCS Plus with ALPHA-L grip - Pointctrl & aux banks <-- must have for VR users!! - Andre's SimShaker Jetpad - Fully adjustable DIY playseat - VA+VAICOM

 

~ That nuke might not have been the best of ideas, Sir... the enemy is furious ~ GUMMBAH

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Luckily I only have to remove the cooler fan in order to reach the slots and not the entire cooler itself :)

 

Ahh, great, some light in the shadow :smilewink:

Gigabyte Aorus X570S Master - Ryzen 5900X - Gskill 64GB 3200/CL14@3600/CL14 - Asus 1080ti EK-waterblock - 4x Samsung 980Pro 1TB - 1x Samsung 870 Evo 1TB - 1x SanDisc 120GB SSD - Heatkiller IV - MoRa3-360LT@9x120mm Noctua F12 - Corsair AXi-1200 - TiR5-Pro - Warthog Hotas - Saitek Combat Pedals - Asus PG278Q 27" QHD Gsync 144Hz - Corsair K70 RGB Pro - Win11 Pro/Linux - Phanteks Evolv-X 

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