Spitfire Prop Bug

When I attempt to do two point landings in the Spitfire, I often break my prop, so I've basically gave in and do three points, probably like I'm supposed to do anyways. Anyways, when I break my prop, I lose a blade, and my engine locks up. Normal, right? Well, after I slow down, do my thing, and pop into the external view, POOF! My broken blade is back! :huh: And on top of that, my engine is still broken, so I can't start, and I can't repair either! I've noticed this in both 1.5.7 and the current 2.1, so I think it's a Spitfire specific bug, but idk exactly. All I know is that this black magic must be stomped out! Basically, this is hindering repairs for the Spitfire, even though the Spit's engine is damaged.

 

Edit: I just realized that I put this in the wrong section. There's a "Bugs and Problems" area on the top, and my eyes went completely right over it, yet I didn't notice. Please don't harang me much, moderators!

Edited July 13, 2017 by Magic Zach
Wrong forum section

Not sure about the bug you're reporting there Magic Zach as I haven't witnessed this myself,however I can confirm that with the Spitfire,3 point landings are the norm,not 2 point.

I think I keep seeing something similar, probably the same.

Sometimes, after Spitfire repair, the engine refuses to start. Lights dim (as in pulling current) but engine doesn't turn over.

pls note that post is from 2017 probably issue is solved alredy

pls note that post is from 2017 probably issue is solved alredy

 

It still happens. Happened today. Sometimes after repair engine just refuses to turn over.

 

 

ED/add

 

Wasn't gonna post this until I had more information (finding a sure way to recreate) but searching found this thread and realized it's probably the same thing.

Edited April 3, 2019 by -0303-

It still happens. Happened today. Sometimes after repair engine just refuses to turn over.

 

 

ED/add

 

Wasn't gonna post this until I had more information (finding a sure way to recreate) but searching found this thread and realized it's probably the same thing.

 

try connecting ground power, i noticed that reparing is not fixing battery somehow the same as rearming/refueling dont fill your oxygen tank

I tried ground power. No joy. I kept shutting off fuel pump and radiator flap on the theory battery drained by while repairing. But repair should provide a fresh battery one would think.

Even with every power consuming thing turned off, the battery voltage seems to continue to drop while under repair. Ground power does not bring it back.

Repair and don't walk away. Restart as soon as possible.

Don't use the booster fuel pump for the restart. It takes a lot of power.

Wobble pump it after a repair.

All lights, radio and U/C indicator and dash lights and anything that consumes voltage need to be off. The Booster Pump is a big consumer. Note: voltage will continue to drop slowly.

She won't start if you go to the mess for supper and come back expecting it to be repaired and ready.

Repairing under a canopy and in the dirt is not always good.

Try to get to a concrete or asphalt area.

At this point if I get a prop strike, it is pretty much best practice to restart the Sim in my opinion.

If you repair under a canopy, weird things used to happen. Haven't tried lately.

Repair is glitched enough that I don't usually even bother anymore. *Stable release"

I did a test yesterday after reading these posts.

A repair on the hard parking pad returns a smaller bounce and does not "prop-strike"

A repair on the dirt taxiway caused the big jump and prop-strike.

The repair repaired the prop and it restarted with a bit of effort by making sure power consumption was at a minimum and I didn't dilly dally. I was in the cockpit at all times

I watched the volt meter like a hawk and it steadily went down and down and down even with every single thing off.

I will be putting repairs back on the back burner for a while if I am not on a hard surface.

The bounce happens on RWY as well and on taxi ways (try especially the broad taxi way at Senaki).

~

Did a quick test watching voltmeter. Spawned RWY. 14.8V idling (estimated). Full throttle = 15V. Ground looped while watching voltmeter:music_whistling:

Repair, 14V, wouldn't turn over on pushing starter. Interesting (or not), volt drops to 9V while pushing starter (lights dim) and refusing to turn over. Volt drops to just 12V when engine successfully turns over (from 14.8-14.9 Volt on fresh cold spawn).

~

I shut off engine all the time while rearming/refueling and never have a problem restarting. I always try restart immediately after repair. Engine off while repairing or refuel/rearming are both about 4-5 minutes I think. So what's different?

 

About Ground power.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Aircraft_engine_starting#Electric_starter

 

A Supermarine Spitfire at readiness with a trolley accumulator connected

I don't think I need to research that the point of Ground Power is engine start 99% of the time. So why doesn't this work? Verified after breaking engine on purpose: Noted the same drop to 9V (no turn over) with Ground Power connected/unconnected. Saw this once. Grew tired of trying to recreate when I couldn't Repair without bounce/breaking again after about 4 attempts.
Edited April 10, 2019 by -0303-

The repair situation is confusing.

I am going to assume the ground crew only repairs what they saw and internal damage occurred (that is a stretch).

I think I'll demand a new plane each time I land.

I found it wouldn't roll over under 14 volts which makes no sense to me at all.

A 6 cell battery system is fully charged at 2.2 volts per cell. 13.2 volts.

Is it an 8 cell battery?

Traditionally charging system's voltage regulator allows a charge at 13.8-14.8 (I'll give them their 15 volt regulator in this case).

Once the surface voltage is removed, 13.2 would indicate a fully charged battery with that surface charge removed.

IMO it should roll over and start even at 12 or 13 volts unless there is an excessive draw on the starting system such as a seized engine or a bent crankshaft or a broken connecting rod from the sudden prop strike. I like to think of it as, you're not just going to need a new prop if you bang it on the ground. Mind you turning over a Merlin would be quite a draw in itself.

 

The bottom line is, I will go back to avoiding glitchy repairs and request a new aircraft which is what I was doing before I read this thread. Test completed. Voltage during repair is bugged and inaccurate.

 

Raindrops on the canopy are gone. Stable version.

A couple other things I have mentioned for years...

 

I have a read a few times it is complete. *cough*

 

I'm going flying. Have a great one.

 

I love my Spitfire...anyway

I tried ground power. No joy. I kept shutting off fuel pump and radiator flap on the theory battery drained by while repairing. But repair should provide a fresh battery one would think.

 

repair do not replacing battery if battery dead its over only new plane left to chose

I think I had a start at 13V once but I would need to verify again (painful with non-SSD disk and more bounce breaks than succesful repairs).

 

I noticed the Voltmeter twitches regularly (every 20 seconds?) with parking brake and revving 1500-2000 rpm. As if some regulator cuts in and out? Also on first revving up, it goes ever so slightly above 15V before cutting back to 15V.

~

In a scenario setting, it would be nice to have Repair work as it should. Repair was a big thing in Battle of Britain. Also in some terrains, having flown a good bit of the map it's a downer having to spawn from far away again because Repair doesn't work.

~

I love the Spitfire to. Probably related to how long it took to learn.

Edited April 10, 2019 by -0303-

Tested some more. I can start engine at 13.1 V (estimate). Drained battery down to 13.1 V by just turning starter over.

 

Again interestingly (or not), draining from just under 15V to just over 13V is fast (less than a minute, didn't time it). Couldn't drain below 13.1V, at least not fast. Maybe if I kept at turning over with the starter for 5 or 10 minutes...

 

After engine start at 13.1 V, it stays at 13.1 V while idling (as opposed idling at 14.8 with a fresh spawn).

 

Ok, now I set parking brake and revved up to 2000 rpm. Needle now not twitching every 7 second (timed the twitch this time), so now continuously charging without cutting out?

 

After 20-25 minutes of 2000 rpm revving, it's back at 14.8-14.9V at idle. Also needle twitches every 7 sec again when revved up. Battery is charged again I interpret this.

Edited April 10, 2019 by -0303-