X-55, X-56, X-65 question...

Which of the X-55, X-56, X-65 are Saitek and which are Logitech.

Also what is the difference between the 3?

Thank you.

X-55 is Saitek when owned by Madcats

X-56 with blue decals is Madcats and maybe early logitech.

X-56 with grey decals is logitech

X-65 I am not 100% sure if it is pre-Madcats Saitek, or made during Madcats, but it isn't Logitech.

Difference wise. The X-56 has game pad styled sticks compared to the 4 way hat of the 65 and the little mouse nub of the 55. The pads are smooth and work as an axis. Personally I have them set up to trigger buttons.

As for other differences. The Logitech X-56 seems to be better built than the older Madcats one, but time will tell. I have had mine for a year and it has been solid.

I hope that helps

generally the problem of these joysticks is the friction of the handle, for example the x 52 is a disaster, bought and never used again, I still have the totally new throttle :cry:

X-55 is Saitek when owned by Madcats

 

X-56 with blue decals is Madcats and maybe early logitech.

 

X-56 with grey decals is logitech

 

X-65 I am not 100% sure if it is pre-Madcats Saitek, or made during Madcats, but it isn't Logitech.

 

Difference wise. The X-56 has game pad styled sticks compared to the 4 way hat of the 65 and the little mouse nub of the 55. The pads are smooth and work as an axis. Personally I have them set up to trigger buttons.

 

As for other differences. The Logitech X-56 seems to be better built than the older Madcats one, but time will tell. I have had mine for a year and it has been solid.

 

I hope that helps

Thank you for the info!

So X-65 is older and the grey X-56 by Logitech is the newer of the 3?

Is the Rhino the X-55?

Which is best for flight sim?

generally the problem of these joysticks is the friction of the handle, for example the x 52 is a disaster, bought and never used again, I still have the totally new throttle :cry:

I have the X-52 Pro now for about 8 years and still working well. What never worked well where the 2 rotor dials and the mouse which I was able to use through banding.

As for friction of the throttle and j-stick still very smooth.

Thank you for the info!

So X-65 is older and the grey X-56 by Logitech is the newer of the 3?

Is the Rhino the X-55?

Yeah. The X-65 is 2010 and not in production anymore. The Grey Logitech is the newest of all three. Also the Rhino name is both the X-55 and X-56.

Also the Throttle does take a little time to loosen up due to the grease used to lubricate the throttle (Logitech version at least), I don't find it hard to us, it does take a little bit a force, but nothing you shouldn't get use too. That being said I would recommend something under it to keep it from slipping if you have a slick surface.

Yeah. The X-65 is 2010 and not in production anymore. The Grey Logitech is the newest of all three. Also the Rhino name is both the X-55 and X-56.

 

Also the Throttle does take a little time to loosen up due to the grease used to lubricate the throttle (Logitech version at least), I don't find it hard to us, it does take a little bit a force, but nothing you shouldn't get use too. That being said I would recommend something under it to keep it from slipping if you have a slick surface.

The X-56 is an upgrade to the X-55, is one better for flight sim?

Internally it apparently has better components. When I got mine I made sure to get the Logitech ones because compared to the Madcats 56s they seemed to be better built, but it is hard to tell component wise between the 55, and 56 without opening them up. I went from a 52 pro to my current 56, but compared to a buddies 55, it doesn't seem too different. Plastic did seem nicer.

Externally, the only real change is the mouse nub on the throttle, and hat switch swapped out for a game pad style thumb stick. Also I think the springs are different.

But if you are going to get one of the X56 sticks. I would go for the grey Logitech ones, and avoid the 55 or blue 56s. They are newer, under warranty, and will be supported. That being said. I would recommend getting an external warranty for any Hotas. I got mine via Amazon, and picked up a three year warranty for about 10 bucks or maybe less.

As for the sim itself. I would say the Logitech 56 is better for the sim ONLY because of the support from Logitech. They are still updating the software, where as the older software is no longer supported. Both designs the 55 and 56 should work the same.

Internally it apparently has better components. When I got mine I made sure to get the Logitech ones because compared to the Madcats 56s they seemed to be better built, but it is hard to tell component wise between the 55, and 56 without opening them up. I went from a 52 pro to my current 56, but compared to a buddies 55, it doesn't seem too different. Plastic did seem nicer.

 

Externally, the only real change is the mouse nub on the throttle, and hat switch swapped out for a game pad style thumb stick. Also I think the springs are different.

 

But if you are going to get one of the X56 sticks. I would go for the grey Logitech ones, and avoid the 55 or blue 56s. They are newer, under warranty, and will be supported. That being said. I would recommend getting an external warranty for any Hotas. I got mine via Amazon, and picked up a three year warranty for about 10 bucks or maybe less.

 

As for the sim itself. I would say the Logitech 56 is better for the sim ONLY because of the support from Logitech. They are still updating the software, where as the older software is no longer supported. Both designs the 55 and 56 should work the same.

Great...thanks again!

I hope the Logitech support is better for the X-56 than it was for the X-52 Pro...strictly email support only!

I do like the new software and drivers by Logitech.

I do strictly flight sim so that's why I asked.

Do I search under Logitech X-56 or is it still called Saitek X-56?

https://www.bestbuy.ca/en-ca/product/logitech-x56-h-o-t-a-s-rgb-throttle-and-stick-simulation-controller/12421816

Still blue not grey.

Update: some stores are trying to sell off the old 'blue' stock.

I watched a couple of videos looks good so I ordered on Amazon the Logitech X56 and made sure it was the grey one.

There have been some comments about the stiffness of the throttle...any problem you found?

Are the tension springs easy to change on the j-stick?

Do you need to uninstall the drivers and software from the X-52 Pro?

I watched a couple of videos looks good so I ordered on Amazon the Logitech X56 and made sure it was the grey one.

There have been some comments about the stiffness of the throttle...any problem you found?

Are the tension springs easy to change on the j-stick?

Yeah it is like I said earlier. They use a grease to on the throttle to keep it lucubrated up. I find that with a little bit of use it gets easier to move, but it isn't too bad, and you get use to it. But even before it loosens up it isn't bad just takes a little bit more force. After a while you won't notice it.

That being said. I know some people open up their throttles and use a third party grease after removing the old, but I think that voids warranty. I might do that once I am out of my three years and if I am still using it.

And it isn't too hard to change the springs. You will see how it is done when setting up the stick for the first time. I personally went with the strongest spring and it has been great.

Yeah it is like I said earlier. They use a grease to on the throttle to keep it lucubrated up. I find that with a little bit of use it gets easier to move, but it isn't too bad, and you get use to it. But even before it loosens up it isn't bad just takes a little bit more force. After a while you won't notice it.

 

That being said. I know some people open up their throttles and use a third party grease after removing the old, but I think that voids warranty. I might do that once I am out of my three years and if I am still using it.

 

 

And it isn't too hard to change the springs. You will see how it is done when setting up the stick for the first time. I personally went with the strongest spring and it has been great.

As for the older software and drivers for the X-52 Pro? I don't want to uninstall them if it's not necessary.

Ok to use on a 3.0 USB?

As for the older software and drivers for the X-52 Pro? I don't want to uninstall them if it's not necessary.

Ok to use on a 3.0 USB?

I have my 56 on 3.0 slots. Some people recommend getting a powered 3.0 hub, but I haven't needed it.

I have my 56 on 3.0 slots. Some people recommend getting a powered 3.0 hub, but I haven't needed it.

Mine is powered and I have a 4 port splitter USB plugged into it that has an individual on/off power switch, very good for turning off devices like the HOTAS when finished.

I have had the X-55 rhino for 3+ years and it has alway worked well for me... I only use the drivers and basic saitek program all my button asdsignment are through DCS World.

I've had an x55 since 2015. It's been good except for that little nub stick on the throttle thats supposed to be a mouse/slew. Never worked right.

It isn't analog anyways so i didn't bother trying to fix it. I did have the pot, in the twist part of the stick, go wacky on me around January of this year.

I removed the stick from the base and opened it up and found the pot only needed a good spray of electrical cleaner and put back together.

I put dielectric grease on the mating moving surfaces. It doesn't dry up and is safe on plastic and rubber.

One more thing...when i first got this hotas, i had problems with "ghost buttons". I found out it was because i had the individual usb cables to the stick and throttle crossed and laying on each other.

Once i made sure they were always separated, no more ghost buttons.

These are pure crap!!! DO NOT spend your money on any of those.

I've had an x55 since 2015. It's been good except for that little nub stick on the throttle thats supposed to be a mouse/slew. Never worked right.

It isn't analog anyways so i didn't bother trying to fix it. I did have the pot, in the twist part of the stick, go wacky on me around January of this year.

I removed the stick from the base and opened it up and found the pot only needed a good spray of electrical cleaner and put back together.

I put dielectric grease on the mating moving surfaces. It doesn't dry up and is safe on plastic and rubber.

 

One more thing...when i first got this hotas, i had problems with "ghost buttons". I found out it was because i had the individual usb cables to the stick and throttle crossed and laying on each other.

Once i made sure they were always separated, no more ghost buttons.

Are you saying the USB cables from the j-stick and throttle will cause each other interference if they get too close?

generally the problem of these joysticks is the friction of the handle, for example the x 52 is a disaster, bought and never used again, I still have the totally new throttle :cry:

Can you plz elaborate on that?

I have a X52 and when doing tiny adjustments, there often seems to be some (higher) resistance to get over first. Makes those adjustments often unprecise. Already thought about putting some grease (or something comparable) on the lower side of the base(under the spring), to reduce friction between the base and the circular opening below.

Sorry, hard to explain.

Is my problem the same that you are referring to? Is there a solution??

I loved my X-52 Pro but after many years it's time to retire it. I put grease under the spring and under the cup, never had friction issues.

What's the difference in the HOTAS functionality between it having an analog nub stick or I presume digital would be the other option?

What part of the X-56 is analog and what part is digital if digital is the other option?

I watched a couple of videos looks good so I ordered on Amazon the Logitech X56 and made sure it was the grey one.

There have been some comments about the stiffness of the throttle...any problem you found?

Are the tension springs easy to change on the j-stick?

 

 

Do you need to uninstall the drivers and software from the X-52 Pro?

They put some insanely thick grease on all over everything in the X-52 and X-56 throttles (my X-55 wasn't like that). It starts off extremely resistant, then loosens up a bit as you use it, but if you then let it sit a few seconds it begins to stiffen again. I used carbuerator cleaner and a knife to scrape all that crap out. It made using it a real pain, and small fine tuning adjustments were difficult, especially with the X-52 having heavy detents at 25% and 75% for NO FATHOMABLE REASON. The X-56 is a decent mid range stick by virtue of being the ONLY mid-range stick that is easy to get your hands on. The CH stuff has its own substantial design flaws

The X65F is the best out of these and is the only one of the Saitek/Logitech sticks to buy as far as I can tell.

Keep in mind that the 65F doesn't move like a regular stick. It senses force.

Many people say it's too sensitive or that you need to have a dead-zone but that' just noob talk. Once you get them tuned to your preference they need no dead zone and the sensitivity is adjustable over a very wide range.

The X65F is the best out of these and is the only one of the Saitek/Logitech sticks to buy as far as I can tell.

 

 

Keep in mind that the 65F doesn't move like a regular stick. It senses force.

 

 

Many people say it's too sensitive or that you need to have a dead-zone but that' just noob talk. Once you get them tuned to your preference they need no dead zone and the sensitivity is adjustable over a very wide range.

Still have my x-65f, well I use the throttle. Nothing touches it for number of hats, rotories, even analogue mini stick. The only thing that may pull me away from it is the new Virpil throttle.

I see the software customization for the X-56 is much more advanced than the X-52 Pro.

Is it better to use the Logitech software to do stick, axis modifications like deadband and saturation etc. or is it better to use the DCS software?

The DCS stuff is pretty top notch really...

Pretty much the ONLY thing I'd ask for would be the ability to split an axis... So if I split the rudder axis I could assign a throttle pedal to the right rudder, and a clutch pedal to the left rudder. Right now I have to use a third party virtual device to combine the throttle and clutch pedal on my racing pedals to make a rudder axis.