longuich Posted November 12, 2019 Share Posted November 12, 2019 @skyjunky: did you design the font yourself? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SkyJunky Posted November 12, 2019 Share Posted November 12, 2019 Thanks for sharing your work. Would you mind sharing your parts list? Thanks What do you want to know? @skyjunky: did you design the font yourself? Yes, the Font ist design by myself. I have testet another fonts, but it was not exactly enough. Sky´s Simpit Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
longuich Posted November 12, 2019 Share Posted November 12, 2019 Would you be willing to share that? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SkyJunky Posted November 12, 2019 Share Posted November 12, 2019 I can do that, but that is not so easy as you think. It is not a Windows font. Sky´s Simpit Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
longuich Posted November 12, 2019 Share Posted November 12, 2019 I understand that. One needs to incorporate it in the •uino code. Probably as u8g2 custom font(?) Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SkyJunky Posted November 12, 2019 Share Posted November 12, 2019 Yes, of course. Give me some time please. I'm not at home. I think about how to do it the easiest way so that others can understand it and do it himself. Sky´s Simpit Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
longuich Posted November 12, 2019 Share Posted November 12, 2019 Cheers mate Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
obious Posted November 26, 2019 Share Posted November 26, 2019 I make some progress. I only have some pushbuttons because of customs problems :( BulkaCv, bit late in asking but how did you get your 3D prints so smooth? Did you polish/sand them after printing? Intel 12900k @ 5.2Ghz, RTX 4090, Samsung 1TB NVME, Thrustmaster Warthog & F-18 stick, Pendular Rudder Pedals - Quest Pro AV8B N/A UFC Build Log AV8B N/A PCBs for sale Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ghostrider84 Posted December 14, 2019 Share Posted December 14, 2019 Which printer are you using? If you use ABS you can smooth parts with acetone but this is nothing i would advice in unventilated rooms. Also you have to consider that the material is chemically softened and hardens after the acetone evaporated. With a good printer (Prusa MK3) and most important high quality filament you can get smooth parts easily. Usually what destroys quality is filament out of the diameter tolerances and if you have hygroscopic material. during print it leads to unexpected results. Good bearings and lubrication of the printer is important. Try to eliminate vibrations. Use a good enclosure and try using the print fan for ABS even if it’s not advised. It’s my experience that heat builds up in parts and leads to deformation. Printing of parts is no rocket science. Best advice. Don’t save money at the wrong spot. My bearings and frame costs more than a complete low end printer. It’s logical that somewhere quality is lost on the path to cheap products. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
skygunner58203 Posted January 1, 2020 Share Posted January 1, 2020 Oh god. I just found this. And am now sooooo glad I work for an electronic parts distributor. And since I have a printer, I should be able to get this printed and working in a weekend. THANKS FOR THIS! As soon as I have extra funds, a donation is coming your way! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hawker32 Posted January 5, 2020 Share Posted January 5, 2020 Have you considered making an F16 ICP, Brun? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brun Posted January 5, 2020 Author Share Posted January 5, 2020 Have you considered making an F16 ICP, Brun? No plans to, sorry. Asus Z690 Hero | 12900K | 64GB G.Skill 6000 | 4090FE | Reverb G2 | VPC MongoosT-50CM2 + TM Grips | Winwing Orion2 Throttle | MFG Crosswind Pedals Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NightShiftNinja Posted January 5, 2020 Share Posted January 5, 2020 Oh god. I just found this. And am now sooooo glad I work for an electronic parts distributor. And since I have a printer, I should be able to get this printed and working in a weekend. THANKS FOR THIS! As soon as I have extra funds, a donation is coming your way!@skygunner58203 what country are you in?? You would likely be a great resource for finding us buttons and switches that have a great tactile feel to them... Sent from my SM-G930W8 using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
skygunner58203 Posted January 6, 2020 Share Posted January 6, 2020 I'm in the US. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NightShiftNinja Posted January 7, 2020 Share Posted January 7, 2020 I'm in the US.Once you pick some switches that fit and feel good you should fire put some part numbers for us, I'm sure you could get some sales from the north american people on here. Sent from my SM-G930W8 using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rockthearts281 Posted January 14, 2020 Share Posted January 14, 2020 Sure. Download it here... FA-18_headingPanel.obj Hey Brun, Huge fan. I was trying to download the Heading panel but it just pops up as a bunch of code and not a file download? If i'm doing something dumb just let me know! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brun Posted January 14, 2020 Author Share Posted January 14, 2020 Hey Brun, Huge fan. I was trying to download the Heading panel but it just pops up as a bunch of code and not a file download? If i'm doing something dumb just let me know! Save that in a file with the extension .obj and it will work fine. Asus Z690 Hero | 12900K | 64GB G.Skill 6000 | 4090FE | Reverb G2 | VPC MongoosT-50CM2 + TM Grips | Winwing Orion2 Throttle | MFG Crosswind Pedals Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chouclak Posted January 15, 2020 Share Posted January 15, 2020 First of all thank you Brun for your amazing work !! Did some body made a box to fit under... a case ? Thanks Alienware Aurora R8 I7 9700K WC, GeForce 1080 Ti 11Gig, Occulus Rift Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lee1hy Posted January 19, 2020 Share Posted January 19, 2020 Does anyone know of ICP and UFC drawings (plastic CASE) required for cad work ,, mill-spec doc creator of ED's official F-16C liveries (WP,OS, 132nd, 152nd, 174th) AH-64D livery contest winner kim_123456#3214 My user files https://shorturl.at/cdKV5 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
skygunner58203 Posted January 25, 2020 Share Posted January 25, 2020 Possibly a dumb question. Do I need to use the inserts, or can I just use nuts and bolts? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Johnsoir Posted February 19, 2020 Share Posted February 19, 2020 BulkaCV, can you link to the buttons you used for this build? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wereferret Posted March 27, 2020 Share Posted March 27, 2020 With COVID keeping me at home, I have some time to get back to finishing this project. I am stuck on getting the rotary encoders to work with the BB-64. I am using the same encoders the Brun recommended at the beginning of the threat (from Mouser). Also keep in mind this is my first electronics/wiring project. Ever. OK so the relevant parts of the rotary encoder are terminals A and B, which represent the encoder being turned left and right, and C, in the middle. https://drive.google.com/open?id=1fCN4fOf3TmFSQyKyk_Nw5aSHLKhWea78 Each of the buttons on the BB-64 require 2 pins - If I wire position 28 to A and C, it works great, then position 29 to B and C, that's great, but I can't figure out how to "share" C between them both. https://drive.google.com/open?id=1fGBKfC70hbjc_p4b9yYbJU5KUKDd3rtQ I made a splitter with stuff lying around: https://drive.google.com/open?id=1fNYKx2iKmGeWUvFhdUn5eWWE2ECLOcU_ but no response at all - I'm assuming because its a digital signal? I saw a couple places on the internet stating "You don't need to wire the ground © to both, just do it once", but then only the fully wired button works. What am I missing here? Can anyone share a picture of how you wired your encoders to the BB-64? Thanks very much! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
longuich Posted March 27, 2020 Share Posted March 27, 2020 The ground wire goes to a ground connection. The a/b pins connect to a pin that reads the state changes of the encoder. With arduinos and teensies this works perfectly with the appropriate code. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cigar Bear Posted March 27, 2020 Share Posted March 27, 2020 WF, I also made a UFC controller, and used two boards - one Arduino and a Bodner board. I didn't realize that you can download an app from Bodnar which allows you program the board with many different functions - like a single press results from a constant "on" toggle switch. Havent messed with it lately - but check that out - maybe it can help you. CB Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wereferret Posted March 28, 2020 Share Posted March 28, 2020 (edited) The ground wire goes to a ground connection. The a/b pins connect to a pin that reads the state changes of the encoder. With arduinos and teensies this works perfectly with the appropriate code. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk That makes sense, but the BBI-64 doesn't have a ground connection, on 64 independent buttons with two pins each, as far as I can tell. I know there is a way to make it work because this is exactly the setup Brun used, hoping he or someone who followed his method can post a screenshot of how they got the encoders to work. Picture of the board and wiring so far. https://drive.google.com/open?id=1fAsTO2p4OMKJKVr0i2p6TqQ3bFCNCfjb Edit: Looking at Page 3 of the this thread Brun posted a picture of his wiring, and it looks like one of the encoders (with the brown/white/gray wires) are going somewhere - but I can't tell how they are actually wired on the BBI-64 board. The other encoder weirdly has FOUR wires coming out (should only be three pins?), but covered in a sheath so I can't see what is connected to what. I dunno what to think. Edited March 28, 2020 by wereferret Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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