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Logitech X56 Mode selector issue


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Hi guys,

 

I'm using Logitech X56 HOTAS.

Out of the sudden after few weeks break from the game there is a problem with my stick I think.

 

On the throttle module there is a selection switch M1,M2,S1. The switch is used to change profiles,

so lets say my bindings for starting the plain were on M2, and for while in combat on M1.

 

Now the switch only works for the throttle module and does nothing for the stick.

 

I tried to reinstall drivers, remove it from human interface devices. I also tried different stick / throttle of the same brand / type. I also switched usb ports. The problem persists.

 

So it have to be software / windows related.

Im using Windows 10 with latest updates.

 

If anyone have clue how to fix this, I would love to hear!

Thanks!!


Edited by Ergrim
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Did you test your profile in Saitek's software?

Is it working in test page?

Intel i7-14700@5.6GHz | MSI RTX4080 Super SuprimX | Corsair V. 32GB@6400MHz. | Samsung 1TB 990 PRO SSD (Win10Homex64)
Samsung G5 32" + Samsung 18" + 2x8"TFT Displays | Saitek X-55 Rhino & Rudder | TM MFD Cougars | Logitech G13, G230, G510, PZ55 & Farming Sim Panel | TIR5
>>MY MODS<< | Discord: Devrim#1068

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Yes, In the software the switch do its job only on the throttle module.

For example setting the switch to position M2 will have effect on the throttle module. Simultaneously the same setting should by applied to the stick, but that is not the case, it just stays on M1.

 

M2 position on throttle

bb3tFH2

 

M2 position on stick, stays on M1mvRB7qq

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Are you certain you downloaded the correct drivers 64 vs 32?

 

 

I just test mine and it does change the mode on the stick profile as well.

System 1:

Windows 10 Pro 22H2 Build 19045.4123 - Core i7 3770K/Gigabyte GA-Z68XP-UD3 (BIOS F-10)/32GB G-Skill Trident X DDR3 CL7-8-8-24/Asus RTX 2070 OC 8GB - drivers 551.61/LG Blue Ray DL Burner/1TB Crucial MX 500 SSD/(x2)1TBMushkinRAWSSDs/2TB PNY CS900 SSD/Corsair RM750w PSU/Rosewill Mid Challenger Tower/34" LG LED Ultrawide 2560x1080p/Saitek X56 HOTAS/TrackIR 5 Pro/Thermaltake Tt esports Commander Gear Combo/Oculus Quest 2/TM 2xMFD Cougar/InateckPCIeUSB3.2KU5211-R

System 2:

Windows 11 Home 23H2 22631.3447 - MSI Codex Series R2 B14NUC7-095US - i7 14700F/MSI Pro B760 VC Wifi/32GB DDR5 5600mhz RAM/RTX 4060/2TB nVME SSD/4TB 2.5in SSD/650w Gold PSU

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The former Saitek HOTAS are pure rubbish. Take my advice and get rid of it, you'll live longer and mentally healthier.

Specs:

Asus Z97 PRO Gamer, i7 4790K@4.6GHz, 4x8GB Kingston @2400MHz 11-13-14-32, Titan X, Creative X-Fi, 128+2x250GB SSDs, VPC T50 Throttle + G940, MFG Crosswinds, TrackIR 5 w/ pro clip, JetSeat, Win10 Pro 64-bit, Oculus Rift, 27"@1920x1080

 

Settings:

2.1.x - Textures:High Terrain:High Civ.Traffic:Off Water:High VisRan:Low Heatblur:High Shadows:High Res:1920x1080 RoC:1024 MSAA:4x AF:16x HDR:OFF DefS: ON GCI: ON DoF:Off Lens: OFF C/G:390m Trees:1500m R:max Gamma: 1.5

 

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Small update, I finally found something. But don't know how to solve it.

C:\Program Files\Logitech\X56 in this folder is a file with the name: X56_Profiler

When I run this file It will come in the Processes tab (task manager) for just split of a second, this is when I'm able to use the switch and its working for the stick!

Unfortunately the process gets killed for unknown reason.

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I have never been able to use Saitek/Logitech software. My bindings do not work in the game, nor can I use the keyboard for anything other than ESC, F1 and F2. Mode selection is impossible.

Only in-game bindings work, mostly. I have deleted input files, Saved Games etc. and still nothing.

 

I’ve tried for a decade but no joy.

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I have never been able to use Saitek/Logitech software. My bindings do not work in the game, nor can I use the keyboard for anything other than ESC, F1 and F2. Mode selection is impossible.

Only in-game bindings work, mostly. I have deleted input files, Saved Games etc. and still nothing.

 

I’ve tried for a decade but no joy.

 

Hardly can believe that, but if that's true some curse is upon you :S

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Small update, I finally found something. But don't know how to solve it.

C:\Program Files\Logitech\X56 in this folder is a file with the name: X56_Profiler

When I run this file It will come in the Processes tab (task manager) for just split of a second, this is when I'm able to use the switch and its working for the stick!

Unfortunately the process gets killed for unknown reason.

 

Yes I have X56_profiler process up and running, and everything is fine. I notice one one, I get similar issue to yours when I disconnect stick, while throttle is connected then I go to programming stick and I do not see modes changed, but when I connect stick to USB, back to normal.... so for some reason in your case profiler do not see stick... of course due to process in not working....

 

I have HUD.exe process running as well when I start configuring HOTAS

I have sw ver: 8.0.213.0

driver: 8.0.197.0

 

Do you had HOTAS connected while installing software???

Take a look my mods :joystick: 

dcs_footer500.jpg

CPU: i7 7700 | GPU: GeForce GTX 1080 8GB DDR5 | Motherboard: ASUSTeK PRIME B250M-A | RAM: 2x16GB DDR4-2400 | Output: Kingston HyperX Cloud II | Edifier C2XD 2.1 | Controlls: Saitek X-56 Rhino | Saitek Flight Rudder Pedals | Saitek Multi/Radio/Switch Panels | Thrustmaster MFD Cougar | Elgato Stream Deck XL | OpenTrack with LaserClip | VoiceAttack with VAICOM Pro plugin

 

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The former Saitek HOTAS are pure rubbish. Take my advice and get rid of it, you'll live longer and mentally healthier.

 

really helpful... in DCS you can not use all special buttons/toggles of X56, so you end up with part of configuration in DCS and part in SST or any other tool...

 

So, I use SST to have one single place of configuration... SST could be better bu, it get jobs done most of a time....

Take a look my mods :joystick: 

dcs_footer500.jpg

CPU: i7 7700 | GPU: GeForce GTX 1080 8GB DDR5 | Motherboard: ASUSTeK PRIME B250M-A | RAM: 2x16GB DDR4-2400 | Output: Kingston HyperX Cloud II | Edifier C2XD 2.1 | Controlls: Saitek X-56 Rhino | Saitek Flight Rudder Pedals | Saitek Multi/Radio/Switch Panels | Thrustmaster MFD Cougar | Elgato Stream Deck XL | OpenTrack with LaserClip | VoiceAttack with VAICOM Pro plugin

 

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@ emc

 

My software version is 213.0 and driver version is 8.0.197.0 (the latest version to my knowledge).

Before all this began I had older software installed, I don't mess with things If it does it's job.

At this point I have re-installed the software so many times that I probably did try with and without USB cables connected during the installation.

Also I double checked if it is not the 32 bit version. It is just not possible to install in the first place, as the driver detects that it is a 64 bit windows, it informs you that you have the wrong version and quits.

 

The thing with the stick is, it works but it only is not reacting to the switch. All other buttons are reacting and are map-able.

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Have you tried going into Windows > Control Panel> devices and printers then selecting the controllers and a window pops up allowing you to choose which controller and properties and a controller window displaying the switches and controls If you try this, and the Mode switch will go through all three, then the problem might lie in DCS, possibly a corrupt LUA. I believe if you go into your installation , find your aircraft, go to config and delete it (only in your specific aircraft) then go back and set up your controls again. I had a problem where it was working fine and then suddenly it wasn't seeing my keyboard and after I did that (I found an answer in the forums) I got all things working . Not sure if this might apply in your case.

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Have you tried going into Windows > Control Panel> devices and printers then selecting the controllers and a window pops up allowing you to choose which controller and properties and a controller window displaying the switches and controls If you try this, and the Mode switch will go through all three, then the problem might lie in DCS, possibly a corrupt LUA. I believe if you go into your installation , find your aircraft, go to config and delete it (only in your specific aircraft) then go back and set up your controls again. I had a problem where it was working fine and then suddenly it wasn't seeing my keyboard and after I did that (I found an answer in the forums) I got all things working . Not sure if this might apply in your case.

 

This can't be the case, because the problem exists outside DCS. In the window you mentioned, the selector does its work, but not surprise here because it also works OK in the HOTAS software.

I appreciate your input, but there must be something else going on. I slowly losing my hope.

I know for sure that the stick and my PC are both just fine. It is also not DCS, it has to be something withing the freaking Windows. Or divers conflict, something of that nature.


Edited by Ergrim
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@ emc

At this point I have re-installed the software so many times that I probably did try with and without USB cables connected during the installation.

 

It can be important... befor I bought X-56 I just watch some reviews and I remember somebody pointed it out it is really important do not connect HOTAS to before installation. Just connected them when instalator prompt it... They had really strange issues with HOTAS when thwy didn't follow procedure... sink it my mind.

 

If you have some spare old PC install fresh win10, or maybe make quick virtualbox machine and share USB device with guest system.... see if it works....

Take a look my mods :joystick: 

dcs_footer500.jpg

CPU: i7 7700 | GPU: GeForce GTX 1080 8GB DDR5 | Motherboard: ASUSTeK PRIME B250M-A | RAM: 2x16GB DDR4-2400 | Output: Kingston HyperX Cloud II | Edifier C2XD 2.1 | Controlls: Saitek X-56 Rhino | Saitek Flight Rudder Pedals | Saitek Multi/Radio/Switch Panels | Thrustmaster MFD Cougar | Elgato Stream Deck XL | OpenTrack with LaserClip | VoiceAttack with VAICOM Pro plugin

 

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It can be important... befor I bought X-56 I just watch some reviews and I remember somebody pointed it out it is really important do not connect HOTAS to before installation. Just connected them when instalator prompt it... They had really strange issues with HOTAS when thwy didn't follow procedure... sink it my mind.

 

If you have some spare old PC install fresh win10, or maybe make quick virtualbox machine and share USB device with guest system.... see if it works....

 

I checked that right away using Logitech installation instruction.

Uninstalled drivers, uninstalled it from Human Interface Devices, uninstalled from USB devices.

Uninstalled DirectOutput <-- software

Uninstalled X 56 H.O.T.A.S. software

used CCkeaner to clean registry

restarted PC

started driver installation with unplugged USB cables, and as asmin

when prompted inserted first the stick USB then Throttle (like described in the manual)

after installation restarted PC

Still the same story.

 

I also repaired my windows (not a clean re install but still), it only messed up things on my pc.

Now when I start Assetto Corsa my wheel is not working, instead the stick is the wheel.... Windows magic ...

 

Next I will try the HOTAS on my windows tablet, but need to buy USB splitter.

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:( sad to hear it... so maybe stick it self is broken... but probably you don't have anybody around with different X56 :(

keep us posted.... with tablet test....

hope you will fix this soon!

Take a look my mods :joystick: 

dcs_footer500.jpg

CPU: i7 7700 | GPU: GeForce GTX 1080 8GB DDR5 | Motherboard: ASUSTeK PRIME B250M-A | RAM: 2x16GB DDR4-2400 | Output: Kingston HyperX Cloud II | Edifier C2XD 2.1 | Controlls: Saitek X-56 Rhino | Saitek Flight Rudder Pedals | Saitek Multi/Radio/Switch Panels | Thrustmaster MFD Cougar | Elgato Stream Deck XL | OpenTrack with LaserClip | VoiceAttack with VAICOM Pro plugin

 

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I have tested the X56 on my windows tablet. It is a win 8 32 bit.

And it worked just fine after the installation.

So what I was suspecting is actually true. It needs to be some kind of drivers or windows problem on my PC.

As I have no time to reinstall my rig from scratch I leave it for now as It is, unless someone have any suggestions to fix it.

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I have tested the X56 on my windows tablet. It is a win 8 32 bit.

And it worked just fine after the installation.

So what I was suspecting is actually true. It needs to be some kind of drivers or windows problem on my PC.

As I have no time to reinstall my rig from scratch I leave it for now as It is, unless someone have any suggestions to fix it.

 

I can't provide any help to fix the Logitech/Saitek driver things. However I can assure you you would benefit from using Joystick Gremlin.


Edited by Ant0ine
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Engineer's perspective

 

Small update, I finally found something. But don't know how to solve it.

C:\Program Files\Logitech\X56 in this folder is a file with the name: X56_Profiler

When I run this file It will come in the Processes tab (task manager) for just split of a second, this is when I'm able to use the switch and its working for the stick!

Unfortunately the process gets killed for unknown reason.

 

Hey Ergrim, I know these things can be really infuriating, and without knowing everything about your system, I hope to help by offering a few things:

 

My old adage that has saved many a bacon is simply asking yourself this one question, "What did I change last?"

 

You may not like the answer and you may even be tempted not to answer it truthfully. After 39 years in engineering, honestly answering that question and performing the requisite follow-up has fixed many a "it's ***DEFINITELY*** not that" scenarios.

 

My most recent bug-a-boo was with the TrackIR interfering with a custom key setting with my Corsair keyboard.

 

So, for your joystick:

 

First, remove ALL unnecessary USB devices from the system - UNPLUGGED. I'd even go as far as leaving the mouse off and using keyboard shortcuts for windows menus. With all unnecessary devices out, take a look at the joystick operation from the device's management console.

 

Still not working right?

 

Next, try uninstalling the device from the Device Manager, even if you've done it before. Once removed, shut the system down and fire it up again. (e.g. don't just reboot.)

 

Bring the system back up without the controller plugged in. Go into the Logitech menu and uninstall. Now reboot the system once it's uninstalled. I'd also double check using System Internal's suite "AutoStarts" to check to make sure nothing remains in the auto-start for the joystick. Look for Logitech.

 

[start the AutoStart program in admin mode if it does and remove the offending entry(s).]

 

Now, clean slate, re-install per the manufacturer's instructions.

 

If this does not clear up the issue, I'd contact Logitech technical support before wiping Windows.

 

Note: I have seen more weird issues caused by mis-managing your USB hub connections than you might imagine. e.g. Always place streaming / high bandwidth devices on the first 3 ports on a 7-port USB hub. The last 4 are cascaded ports and share one I/O port from the first of the two 4-port chips. It's usually a bad idea to mix streaming devices with interrupt devices. (e.g. You should avoid placing streaming devices like web cams on the same physical PC port (via a HUB) with something like a keyboard or mouse.)

 

Keep one HUB for streaming I/O and another for interrupt I/O and you'll have fewer issues.

 

Hope this helps!

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Thanks RedGum.

 

I will do all this at weekend. I should be working now. To the question what I did change lately; I just don't know as I haven''t been playing for few months.. So in that time a lot of things did change. I rolled back the windows as far as I could but that din't help.

Calling the Logitech support ... yeah they will probably throw it at windows, and vice versa. In my opinion waste of time. Your own brains and forum help are usually the best tools to solve the problem. There are really not many skilled people sitting at the help desk. For fun I can tell you short story.

 

I had internet problem some day so I reset the modem, pull of the power for few minutes. Still no internet. Mobile devices have no internet too. Well I call my internet provider for help paying like 1 euro per minute for this. I get somebody on the phone telling me to do this, do that, and then she ask how long is the internet cable from the wall to the modem, well I knew that if I tell the truth I would be in trouble but being a good Christian I told the truth...

Long story short she blamed it on the "to long cable" ... My arguments that the cable is the same length for like last 5 years, and that the cables are no snakes and get not longer as the time past, din't help! I hung up on her and called again demanding new modem, and that was indeed the issue.


Edited by Ergrim
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Try using a powered usb hub.

System 1:

Windows 10 Pro 22H2 Build 19045.4123 - Core i7 3770K/Gigabyte GA-Z68XP-UD3 (BIOS F-10)/32GB G-Skill Trident X DDR3 CL7-8-8-24/Asus RTX 2070 OC 8GB - drivers 551.61/LG Blue Ray DL Burner/1TB Crucial MX 500 SSD/(x2)1TBMushkinRAWSSDs/2TB PNY CS900 SSD/Corsair RM750w PSU/Rosewill Mid Challenger Tower/34" LG LED Ultrawide 2560x1080p/Saitek X56 HOTAS/TrackIR 5 Pro/Thermaltake Tt esports Commander Gear Combo/Oculus Quest 2/TM 2xMFD Cougar/InateckPCIeUSB3.2KU5211-R

System 2:

Windows 11 Home 23H2 22631.3447 - MSI Codex Series R2 B14NUC7-095US - i7 14700F/MSI Pro B760 VC Wifi/32GB DDR5 5600mhz RAM/RTX 4060/2TB nVME SSD/4TB 2.5in SSD/650w Gold PSU

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