Suncom SFS and Talon restoration and mods

Playing around with sensor placement, the mechanism of action works but the range of detection before the sensor tops out is not able to cover the entire range of motion of the stick. The lever length of the magnets is too long as it is, so trimming down the receptacles might be necessary. Other option could be to restrict the range of motion of the stick.

UPDATE: Even with shorter lever length, the sensor is very fiddly and has an inverse exponential curve that would need to be compensated for in software. GranBichus said he used cylinder magnets and not buttons, but I don't see how a longer magnet and therefore longer lever length would make anything better. I'm just going to revert back to stock pots for now and maybe see if I can think of any novel solutions with the base and gimbal I chopped up.

I believe that Object 77-B is the best option for try

Sokol, what's the difference between the Object 77 you showed me earlier and this?

Been working on this for a while. Was delayed by getting my hands on a 3d printer to test with.

On 8/30/2020 at 1:04 PM, zhutwo said:

Sokol, what's the difference between the Object 77 you showed me earlier and this?

I have not tried any (but need, have 4 Suncom grips laying there...), but the guys in il2sturmovik.ru say that "Object-77" is a better engineered solution, include can be used - with adaptations, in original Suncom case.

38 minutes ago, Sokol1_br said:

 

I have not tried any (but need, have 4 Suncom grips laying there...), but the guys in il2sturmovik.ru say that "Object-77" is a better engineered solution, include can be used - with adaptations, in original Suncom case.

I will try to reverse engineer a case and handle solution for it, but it'll be tougher since the author hasn't shared any source files.

You mean "Object 77-B"?

The STL files are not editable?

https://cloud.mail.ru/public/X98s/iaWzXBiyr

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1KEiArhCy387-mVNiSvKAppua7Tm84rV4/view

For use in Suncom original case (what some people want), just need new pole top and an spacer for fill that small square at top of base.

EDIT - I can open Object 77-B STL files with Fusion360, but have no idea about what do in this software.  

STL is pretty useless to edit because it's the output mesh geometry and not the reference dimensions. Plus there are so many polygons that it takes 10 mins just to import, and crashes immediately after. Maybe someone knows something I don't. I only learned SolidWorks just for this.

Also it's a bit more complicated than just a spacer. I need to make a mounting solution to fasten the gimbal to the case using the existing screw holes ideally.

On 12/17/2020 at 2:46 AM, zhutwo said:

Also it's a bit more complicated than just a spacer. I need to make a mounting solution to fasten the gimbal to the case using the existing screw holes ideally.

The spacer idea is an option for avoid re-dimension the gimbal structure,  because their area is slight bigger than the small square at top of Suncom box, that measure ~ 76,5x76,5mm and the top o gimbal is 64 x 73mm, but the issue is the gimbal + sensor width ~83mm, so can't bolt the gimbal as is direct to the top of case.

In that case can use more length screws in original holes in the case for bolt in the spacer and gimbal together, similar to the way that is used the spacer disk created for VKB Gladiator and Cobra M5:

The only difference for Suncon is that the spacer need be square and more ticker.

Or just use other screw for fit the spacer in gimbal and the original screws on case in the spacer.

I play with this spacer idea in Sketchup and could not the more elegant solution, but seems practical.  

Other option is redraw the top of the outside gimbal structure, keeping the CAM profiles as is.

Under spoiler in OP topic are pictures of Solidworks with some dimensions of gimbal:

https://forum.il2sturmovik.ru/topic/13252-3d-печатная-механика-объект-77-б/

EDIT - My measures of Suncon case, whitout precise tools:

[url=https://postimg.cc/JHZykWXL][img]https://i.postimg.cc/JHZykWXL/Suncom-case.jpg[/img][/url]

The suncom stock gimbal screws into those legs which get in the way of a mounting solution. The legs would probably have to be cut off to make room to secure the spacer through the holes for the 4 ornamental screws on the outside of the case.

Unfortunately will be need cut the legs screws that fit gimbal coil inside the case,  what will be a not a easy job even using a powered cutting tool (e.g. Dremel).

Anyway the same case cleanup is need in VKB Gladiator and Cobra M5 cases, that are way bigger than Suncom.

https://sun9-46.userapi.com/V13prODhWZWv2Xx5c38vx8YbtWA3nnL4fd6jsw/k8im3BrwP9Q.jpg

For ones that have a 3D printer and don't care about original aesthetics, make a new case is more practical solution.

Cutting the plastic with a dremel is no problem. I've done this many times for other mods. What makes it especially difficult on the suncom is the legs are right in the corners of the smaller box, so they can't be cut flush with a dremel disc without damaging the case. But maybe I can cut them at the height of the larger box and still make it work.

Made a PS3 stickbox mount for public access on Thingiverse: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4710408

Made soft center cams for public access: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4717756

@debolestis

Hello I've seen in this thread at page 11 that you used your DIY-FLCS on a Warthog and a Cougar base.

Have you used the old FLCS grip pcb's for this and soldered a 5 pol PS/2-connector to it? I heard it should be possible, cause not much has changed at the grip pcb since the times of FLCS and F22Pro. It still uses the 4021 chips. I have nearly about 20 of those old grip pcb's lying arround here from old cannibalized FLCS/F22Pro and want to use them for further DIY addon grips for the Warthog base in the future.

What I really need to know is are the 5 pins from the PCB to the base identical on the FLCS and the Warthog/Cougar PCB's? I mean the 5 pins or solder points from the left to the right on the grip PCB (green VCC, yellow SPI MISO, orange SPI SCK, red SPI CS, brown VCC) or has anything changed between the old PCB's from the FLCS to the newer ones from the Warthog and the Cougar?

The color code of the wires seems to be identical to the new boards and same goes for the order from left to right, but there is no information on the FLCS-Boards what pin is what. They are only signed as J35-J31 from green to brown. I don't want to fry the Warthog, cause there is something changed in the pinout of those 5 pins.
 

Just wanted to take a moment to let folks know that the Bourns PTA3043-2010CPB103 slide potentiometer is a suitable replacement for those uninterested in coming up with a modified arrangement on the SFS Throttles.  Their 30mm travel and case size are a proper match for the originals.

They are low height models, but the clamping force of the original brackets hold them well, and any play in the future could be solved by fabricating/3D printing a small spacer.  They also have the correct height tab to utilize the original ball carriers that insert into the throttle arms without modification/clipping. 

On 10/7/2021 at 2:52 PM, lunaticfringe said:

Just wanted to take a moment to let folks know that the Bourns PTA3043-2010CPB103 slide potentiometer is a suitable replacement for those uninterested in coming up with a modified arrangement on the SFS Throttles.  Their 30mm travel and case size are a proper match for the originals.

 

They are low height models, but the clamping force of the original brackets hold them well, and any play in the future could be solved by fabricating/3D printing a small spacer.  They also have the correct height tab to utilize the original ball carriers that insert into the throttle arms without modification/clipping. 

 

Thanks for the heads up on this! I stopped using my modded SFS because of jumpy pots. I ordered these on mouser and they arrived today. They are a pretty good fit. Just need to solder up the wires.

Glad it helped!

Gents I need some help...after disassembling my throttle I put this part in a safe place so I wouldn't lose it...I have no idea where that safe spot is.
 

I know it's not lost...but I can't find it. So I am 3D printing a replacement but I need the distance between center of the two shafts.

thanks in advance