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Virpil Throttle Wearing Out Already *please read*


backstab

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Yes you are right. I should have thought that through. So then I suppose what you would lose is a bit of the solid feeling of the detent as the ball moves from groove to groove within one detent slot. Possibly not a big deal.

 

So as long as it remains smooth for everyone then its good.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Interesting.

 

I don't own the stick but thinking of buying one.

 

I need to clear something up. As I work for, and manufacture High End bearings.

From what I'm reading and the photo's you are providing it's NOT a bearing problem. It's more of an engineering problem with the stick. Bit of background.... A bearing consists of 3 main parts. An inner ring (B ring) that fits onto a shaft. The balls that sit between and an outer ring (A ring) that holds them all together. Then you've got seals etc that are unimportant in this case.

 

From what Ive read its the outer ring (A ring) rolling on bare metal that's causing the problem. Cutting grooves in the plate that the outer casing (A ring) moves across. If thats the case a bit of grease would on the plate where the A ring travels will cure the problem. Is that correct?

It's NOT a Bearing problem. The bearing hasn't failed It's A ring to plate thats the problem (which is a pity. I could have supplied high end bearings)

 

Edit.. Ive just read your post regarding adding lube. Grease preferably. I just knew one day my profession would be of help. Bit late though.....

 

 

 

608.jpg


Edited by Alligin
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It's only one person who has this problem. Nobody else.

 

 

If you read back it's several people that have this problem. The problem may not have shown on your throttle YET. for 3 reasons. 1 You haven't got the hours in to cause the grooves.(That's my bet.) 2. Virpil has added grease to the plate. 3. Virpil has totally redesigned that part. (unlikely as they haven't announced it)

 

One thing I can say for certain Is you Will get that problem sooner or later. It's physics metal on metal = Bad. Bit of grease between metal and metal = good. Will outlast you!

 

It's the one of two fields I can call myself an Expert in. I manufacture high end bearings. It's a bad engineering design that is corrected with a bit of grease. You watch aircraft investigation? Little faults grow into big faults. If Virpil haven't greased the plate......

 

But It hasn't put me off buying one because I know the fix.


Edited by Alligin
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If you read back it's several people that have this problem. The problem may not have shown on your throttle YET. for 3 reasons. 1 You haven't got the hours in to cause the grooves.(That's my bet.) 2. Virpil has added grease to the plate. 3. Virpil has totally redesigned that part. (unlikely as they haven't announced it)

 

One thing I can say for certain Is you Will get that problem sooner or later. It's physics metal on metal = Bad. Bit of grease between metal and metal = good. Will outlast you!

 

It's the one of two fields I can call myself an Expert in. It's a bad engineering design that is corrected with a bit of grease

 

But It hasn't put me off buying one because I know the fix.

 

 

A wonderful reply. Just enough rudeness to satisfy me. Thanks for reading the posts correctly.

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This bearing, as far as I can tell, has the same structure as a ball point pen. A single ball in a socket but with a spring to keep it pushed outward and room for that ball to be pushed all the way back into its socket.

 

This isnt a conventional bearing like the picture you posted. I thought the idea was ok actually but it was dry. So if you zoom up on my pic at the beginning of this post, all the way up and ask yourself what would make these grooves cut that harshly into steel. The ball wasnt rolling, it was sliding for some part of its time in that position.

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Virpil Throttle Wearing Out Already *please read*

 

This bearing, as far as I can tell, has the same structure as a ball point pen. A single ball in a socket but with a spring to keep it pushed outward and room for that ball to be pushed all the way back into its socket.

 

This isnt a conventional bearing like the picture you posted. I thought the idea was ok actually but it was dry. So if you zoom up on my pic at the beginning of this post, all the way up and ask yourself what would make these grooves cut that harshly into steel. The ball wasnt rolling, it was sliding for some part of its time in that position.

 

Yeah I can see the offending balls. Normally these external balls are meant to be locating pins only that should lock the outer casing in a fixed position. Ideally the outer shell of the bearing should be fixed. As should the inner shell. The only thing that should turn is the Balls. THAT is the sole purpose of a bearing.

I make bearings for gearboxes in cars among many other things. The purpose of a single ball in the outer casing of a bearing is to LOCK it in place with the corresponding hole in the opposite receiving end. It means the outer case cannot turn. Only the balls inside of the whole bearing should turn. We make them to outlast whatever they are fitted to. (Ive repeated myself but I'll leave as is)

 

NEVER should the outer case turn that's why we fit a locating ball. It looks like they have fitted a bearing with a locating ball that has nothing to Lock into. Therefore the outer case can turn. Which it should never do.

I can see how it could work. A bearing even with the outer ring being free, following a cam or track is a good but crude method. But to have a locating ball with nothing to lock into is very bad. It would have been better to have a normal bearing on the plate.

 

I must say I don't own one. So all I'm going on is a few photos. So I can't be 100% certain. And I think the thing I thought was bearing is just a bit of steel or whatever with a ball embedded. I'd love to have a look at the offending part as it moves across the plate. But only You tubers get free stuff. And they don't test them until faults appear.

I may be wrong my apologies to anyone Ive offended.

 

Yet another edit... God I wish I'd never started.... The "balls” are being used as Idle or AB detents. That explains things..... I should have read with more care. .... Just grease the ****ers up.... It’s a crap design. Eventually the grease Will be removed. Yes the plate should be hardened as someone mentioned to limit the wear. But even so it will wear.. I dare bet the plate is mild steel which can’t be hardened. Maybe I should go into business providing hardened steel plates. That will make me .... a.... poor man.

 

I'm going to bed.

 

It has put me off buying one a little as it’s a design flaw that can be slowed but not cured. The grease may well work for long enough though. And there’s nothing better on the market as I’ve found out the internals of the warthog are plastic


Edited by Alligin
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Yet another edit... God I wish I'd never started.... The "balls” are being used as Idle or AB detents. That explains things..... I should have read with more care. .... Just grease the ****ers up.... It’s a crap design. Eventually the grease Will be removed. Yes the plate should be hardened as someone mentioned to limit the wear. But even so it will wear.. I dare bet the plate is mild steel which can’t be hardened. Maybe I should go into business providing hardened steel plates. That will make me .... a.... poor man.

 

I'm going to bed.

 

It has put me off buying one a little as it’s a design flaw that can be slowed but not cured. The grease may well work for long enough though. And there’s nothing better on the market as I’ve found out the internals of the warthog are plastic

Besides the ball bearing confusion, which you appear to now realize, you also missed the type of device. This is a throttle, not a joystick.

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Besides the ball bearing confusion, which you appear to now realize, you also missed the type of device. This is a throttle, not a joystick.

 

 

 

No I realise it’s a throttle. I may have called it a stick once or twice but def a throttle

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It's NOT a Bearing problem.

 

You are correct... because there is no bearing involved in the issue, but a kind of Ball Plunger.:D

 

21e233301ed549488ce0fa28cab98f55.jpg

 

That work - in throttle, more or less in this way:

 

http://img.directindustry.com/images_di/photo-g/39718-8753832.jpg

 

https://www.kippusa.com/us/en/Products/Spring-Plungers/Ball-Plungers.html

 

Probable ball are not rolling... or instead ball are used a Slot Pin Plunger:

 

https://fengxing.en.made-in-china.com/product/jyuxoOQCfaVh/China-Stainless-Steel-Hex-Slot-Pin-Plunger-Misumi-Standard-Ball-Plunger.html


Edited by Sokol1_br
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Hazzer , yes its the use of the detent that causes wear

 

Okay thanks, I disabled it straight away when I recived my throttle

RTX 2080ti, I7 9700k, 32gb ram, SSD, Samsung Odyssey VR, MSFFB2, T-50 Throttle, Thrustmaster Rudder Pedals

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  • 1 month later...
Just received mine. anything I should do?

 

(what do you mean by "detent" and how can I disable it?)

 

I'd not do anything. Don't fix it if it's not broken. I have 100s hours on mine with a detent set (incl. 100+ carrier landing and AARs where you use throttle extensively, in F18 case right around detent) and there is zero change in feel from new.

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I'd not do anything. Don't fix it if it's not broken. I have 100s hours on mine with a detent set (incl. 100+ carrier landing and AARs where you use throttle extensively, in F18 case right around detent) and there is zero change in feel from new.

 

ok thanks, do you know how to disable the detent? i'd prefer a smooth throttle course from min to max, without bumps

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ok thanks, do you know how to disable the detent? i'd prefer a smooth throttle course from min to max, without bumps

 

Simple.

 

Put both handles at the the detent position.

Flip the throttle on its side and you should see two slits, in those slits are two grub screws.

 

Use a 2mm Allen key and loosen all four of the screws .

No need to remove them completely just loosen them with a turn or two.

 

If you want to try a detent at some point just pit your throttle handle in it's position and gently fasten the grub again.

 

Both grubs can be fastened at different places so can have two separate detents per throttle axis.

 

Personally I myself prefer having a clean throttle with no detents.

i7 8700k @ 4.7, 32GB 2900Mhz, 1080ti, CV1

Virpil MT-50\Delta, MFG Crosswind, Warthog Throttle, Virptil Mongoost-50 throttle.

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Simple.

 

Put both handles at the the detent position.

Flip the throttle on its side and you should see two slits, in those slits are two grub screws.

 

Use a 2mm Allen key and loosen all four of the screws .

No need to remove them completely just loosen them with a turn or two.

 

thanks, excellent :thumbup::thumbup:

now it's perfect! i didn't like the detent

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  • 2 months later...
  • 2 weeks later...

Update: After having to disassemble my throttle many months ago (9-10) and reverse the worn out scratched up plate that had zero lubrication, it I was able to get 5 months out of the other side of the plate. Now the plate appears to be worn again and the groove for the detent is now very soft. It rocks easily through the detent into afterburner. Each week it gets smoother and weaker as a detent. So I put in a ticket 2 weeks ago and was told then that the parts were on order from the manufacturer. I did a check in on the status 8 days after the ticket and was told the same thing. This part is very simple, very cheap and very easy to make. I cant imagine not having lined up a few boxes of them especially when the feedback from the community was that the detent was wearing on a high percentage of owners throttles. So high was it that on their new throttle they abandoned the idea of a detent because they couldn't make one work.

 

May 30 is when I opened the ticket and to this day nothing. Yet

 

Man on the moon in 1969

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Yeah , wish they had gone with finger-lifts instead of a detent .

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Update: After having to disassemble my throttle many months ago (9-10) and reverse the worn out scratched up plate that had zero lubrication, it I was able to get 5 months out of the other side of the plate. Now the plate appears to be worn again and the groove for the detent is now very soft. It rocks easily through the detent into afterburner. Each week it gets smoother and weaker as a detent. So I put in a ticket 2 weeks ago and was told then that the parts were on order from the manufacturer. I did a check in on the status 8 days after the ticket and was told the same thing. This part is very simple, very cheap and very easy to make. I cant imagine not having lined up a few boxes of them especially when the feedback from the community was that the detent was wearing on a high percentage of owners throttles. So high was it that on their new throttle they abandoned the idea of a detent because they couldn't make one work.

 

May 30 is when I opened the ticket and to this day nothing. Yet

 

Man on the moon in 1969

 

They should replace it for you with a new throttle.

Mine is still working, btw, after almost a year, we will see how it goes in next couple of months.

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