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stick setup and Stability


Shane45

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Hi Guys.

 

At present I have a Saitek x45, yes I know it's an antique as far as control systems go, but it works for me with the A-10 & F15,

anyway can anyone help me with setting the stick up, ? just trying to hover has me slipping sideways to the left and backwards.

My throttle ( inverted ) seems to take way too long before any lift actually happens,

I understand there is always going to have to be small adjustments to pedals and cyclic. but I just seem to be fighting my controls to maintain any sort of stability.

 

I've read posts about curve & saturation and all sorts of numbers being mentioned but it doesn't seem to make much of an improvement.

any help would be greatly appreciated

 

many thanks

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It indeed takes a lot of collective to get the Huey light on the skids. If you use the axis indicator (rtrl + enter) you will see you need about 2/3 of the collective range to get her to lift off. This equals to approximatly 30psi on the torque meter. This is not a fault on your joystick configuration.

Personally I am not a fan of curving the joystick axis. Because the Huey needs dellicate but constant controls corrections you are probably better off leaving all axis curvature on default.

When you are side slipping backwards apparently you are using to much cyclic. Use very small corrections on the joystick.

Try not to look close in front of your aircraft while hovering. Pick a spot futher away in front of the helicopter which will make you notice attitude changes way earlier.

Needless to say it will take a lot of practise to make her to hover where you want her to hover.


Edited by Razorback[NL]

 

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Curvature is a very personal subject. But controlling the Huey (and the Mi-8 ) was a great deal easier for me with the curvature set on somewhere between 20 and 25 for both the X and Y axis. Otherwise, it is simply too twitchy for me. And who uses the full range of motion of your stick in a hover anyways? Also, use trim a lot. It also resets the curvature to where you had your stick pointed. Very helpful!

Happy Flying! :pilotfly:

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  • 2 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...

Turn the saturation way down on helicopter cyclics, I use 60%. This means I have to trim to move my cyclic from one extreme to the other, but you should never be handling the the cyclic so roughly as to run into that being a problem.

 

When you turn the saturation down instead of using a curve, you give yourself the same fine control you get in the center of the stick with a curve, but you get it all the way through the sticks range of movement.

 

You use curves in the A-10, and other airplanes because you always want to be able to reach maximum controls deflection with maximum stick deflection. To keep that ability, you use a curve to make movement around the center of the stick to be more precise, while greater movement of the stick becomes less precise.

 

As for the collective, I know there is a custom curve that people are using for the huey, but I don't have it easily accessible. Search around and you should find one on the forums that has a sort of shelf built in to let you use more of the throttle axis for useful collective control.

 

I think I remember some people having good luck with setting the collective to a slider axis, but I could be wrong on that.

 

For what it's worth, it took many hours of practice for me to manage a really good hover. It's never easy, but it will eventually become second nature, and will at least be simple.


Edited by Socket7

Practice makes perfect.

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  • 2 months later...

Many thanks for all the informative replies guys much appreciated.

I now have a Warthog system and am having a poo time trying to map the collective to one of my throttles, either one.

I'm using one throttle lever for throttle ( Invert box ticked in Axis Tune )

and using the other throttle as the collective ( Slider & Invert boxes ticked in Axis Tune )

there is no problem with the throttle moving up and down, but the collective seems to want to work now and again and actually disappears during the flight.

I use the red button ( weapon release ) on my joystick as the Pilot Trimmer, which works.

the only thing that's rally pissing me off is getting the collective to function properly.

I've gone into Users and deleted and mention of Huey profile 5 times and started from scratch, but I just cannot get the collective to function.

Any ideas ?

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Do you intend to fly using manual throttle adjustments?

Obviously you have split the warthog throttles and adjust Throttle and collective independently of each other.

 

I generally never use the throttle except to spool up and then once set to max leave the rest to the Automatic Governor... although I do find the Governor RPM switch useful.

I map the throttle to the Mic switch on the warthog: up - down = throttle up & down. Mic switch forward - back = Governor RPM switch increase - decrease.

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Rogue,

No to the first Q, my left throttle of the 2 is mapped as my throttle and is always full on, I don't adjust the throttle at all.

My Cyclic is the right throttle and is mapped as such with Slider and Invert boxes ticked.

My stick Y & X axis are fine and curve is about 20 I think ,

I don't have pedals , therefore my throttle Incr / Decr SLIDER is set to Rudder and works fine.

 

I have found that the collective works smoothly if I don't have the trimmer box ticked in options, If I do have it on, the collective will only move up with each press of the pilot trimmer,

But I am having alot of fun with it so far, but it does seem to be very buggy,

A little of topic , but I can do nothing / other than fire the guns, with the door gunners, ie Aim the bloody things, pointless having them there if you can't use them.

They do not behave as the manual suggests.

 

Thank you all for the replies.

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If you mean the door gunners are not engaging targets, you have to issue a command to engage; to do this, press LCntl+3 and LCntl+4 for each door gunner, they will start shooting...although not that well...but better than nothing.

 

Good day!

 

DrDetroit

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although not that well...but better than nothing.
Their efficiency is adjustable in the mission editor. At 90% they're not so good, but at 100%, you'll actually see them occasionally hit something if you're lucky.

The DCS Mi-8MTV2. The best aviational BBW experience you could ever dream of.

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Turn the saturation way down on helicopter cyclics, I use 60%. This means I have to trim to move my cyclic from one extreme to the other, but you should never be handling the the cyclic so roughly as to run into that being a problem.

 

When you turn the saturation down instead of using a curve, you give yourself the same fine control you get in the center of the stick with a curve, but you get it all the way through the sticks range of movement.

 

You use curves in the A-10, and other airplanes because you always want to be able to reach maximum controls deflection with maximum stick deflection. To keep that ability, you use a curve to make movement around the center of the stick to be more precise, while greater movement of the stick becomes less precise.

 

As for the collective, I know there is a custom curve that people are using for the huey, but I don't have it easily accessible. Search around and you should find one on the forums that has a sort of shelf built in to let you use more of the throttle axis for useful collective control.

 

I think I remember some people having good luck with setting the collective to a slider axis, but I could be wrong on that.

 

For what it's worth, it took many hours of practice for me to manage a really good hover. It's never easy, but it will eventually become second nature, and will at least be simple.

 

Very interresting, i'll give this a try for my heli(s). I used to have no curvature and 100% saturation.

curvature is easier in some way, ( little correction in level flight more easy; but need to trim a lot in landing and hover, i've lost all my repere)

Do you mean you can grab 100 % saturation of each curve with trim when you tweak your saturation to 60 %

!!! ??? !!! ??? !!:music_whistling::joystick:


Edited by snowsniper
 

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If you have 50% saturation on your joystick, moving your stick in real life to its extremes will make the cyclic in the game only move halfway to it's extremes.

 

This means you can get more precise movement out of the cyclic in game, but you are limited in the amount of cyclic you can apply without using trim.

 

When you use curves, you can always apply maximum cyclic without trimming, but to gain precision in the center of your range of motion, you have to sacrifice precision towards the extremes.

 

Both methods have trade offs. Saturation is relatively useless in fixed wing aircraft, so I bring it up because people might not realize it can be of use in helicopters.

Practice makes perfect.

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Does it works only with " central trimer mod " ?

I have unchecked it because of force feed back ..?

 

 

edit: just have tested it : X Y at 60% on the Y : Good tips ! thanks buddy.


Edited by snowsniper
 

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  • 9 months later...

I think also extending your cyclic helps with stability especially hovering. I didn't believe until I got my extension today from SimPit, just google simpit and it will come up. Tomas made an excellent extension and his service is A +. After finally receiving mine today, I can honestly say that I have been missing out on precision flying. The cyclic is much more precise and easier on my arm. No more muscling it to flight level. Also, I didn't want to do any crazy mods to my Warthog so this was the best option for me.

 

Tomas, thanks again for a great product!

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  • 2 weeks later...
  • 2 months later...

Things that helped me...besides lot's of practice....

 

Warthog stick (Upgraded from T-Flight Hotas and haven't tried others) helps keep a firm steady position due to electrical stability and mass.

 

Warthog stick extension (helps with fine adjustments and the pain in my old arm)

 

Better Video card - upgraded from 1 gb to 3gb mem card and made huge difference - could not hover long enough to pick up a crate until this change.

 

More Memory - Upgraded from 8gb to 36gb made a noticeable difference. DCS seems to use about 13+ gb when not restricted.

 

I don't use any curve, etc. adjustments on the stick but I use -30 on the pedals.

 

Collective is set to Slider, Inverted, with a -40 Curve. This causes the heli to lift sooner as you pull up the collective. The Warthog throttle is most excellent as a collective. But it feels more like you are pulling up if I set the range in the first half of the movement range.

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  • 7 months later...

Hi all!!

 

Just joining this thread as I recently started flying the Huey. I have some questions about curves after following along here for a few pages:

 

- I have CH Fighterstick HOTAS and pedals. Does anyone have a profile for this set up already they would be willing to share?

 

- The Chuck's guide was extremely helpful in getting me to where I can function as a Huey pilot (and 355th_Ohgr!!), I set my curves up per the guide's suggestions EXCEPT for the collective. After reading here about some suggestions I was hoping someone could post some clarification of what exactly the X vs Y saturation is for each advanced tuning is. Per Chuck's you only adjust in 85% on the Y axis of both pitch and roll, X stays at 100%. Help!!

 

- When I put the suggested curve in my collective it's a damn rodeo out there, I take it off and BAM! I am a pilot. Can someone explain how the curve affects your collective / power / throttle? Yes, I know in terms of a heli power & throttle are NOT collective, but for my controller, well,m that's what it is and that's more what I am asking about.

 

Enjoying the helicopter immensely, loving the challenge of it. I am getting to where I am comfy doing things like rapid approaches to landings safely, and sling loading, and it doesn't look like a rodeo most of the time. I would like to understand better what each little tuning thing does so I can tighten it up and be great instead of good enough.

 

Thank you all for your input previously and any responses here!!

 

*edit* not to brag, but my rig is pretty fast and I run everything on full graphics with no trouble whatsoever, so upgrading would not be a good solution!!!

 

~S


Edited by Robert31178
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  • 6 months later...
Hi all!!

 

Just joining this thread as I recently started flying the Huey. I have some questions about curves after following along here for a few pages:

 

- I have CH Fighterstick HOTAS and pedals. Does anyone have a profile for this set up already they would be willing to share?

 

- The Chuck's guide was extremely helpful in getting me to where I can function as a Huey pilot (and 355th_Ohgr!!), I set my curves up per the guide's suggestions EXCEPT for the collective. After reading here about some suggestions I was hoping someone could post some clarification of what exactly the X vs Y saturation is for each advanced tuning is. Per Chuck's you only adjust in 85% on the Y axis of both pitch and roll, X stays at 100%. Help!!

 

- When I put the suggested curve in my collective it's a damn rodeo out there, I take it off and BAM! I am a pilot. Can someone explain how the curve affects your collective / power / throttle? Yes, I know in terms of a heli power & throttle are NOT collective, but for my controller, well,m that's what it is and that's more what I am asking about.

 

Enjoying the helicopter immensely, loving the challenge of it. I am getting to where I am comfy doing things like rapid approaches to landings safely, and sling loading, and it doesn't look like a rodeo most of the time. I would like to understand better what each little tuning thing does so I can tighten it up and be great instead of good enough.

 

Thank you all for your input previously and any responses here!!

 

*edit* not to brag, but my rig is pretty fast and I run everything on full graphics with no trouble whatsoever, so upgrading would not be a good solution!!!

 

~S

 

Polaris has a thread in the Input - Output subforum where he provides a link to his EXCELLENT collection of Warthog profiles, including one for the Huey. Just be aware that they are for the assignments in 1.5. I've noticed that the assignments sometimes don't match those in 1.5. Nothing major, just some minor differences that can trip you up. The UH-1H profile has some curves assigned to the axes.

 

I started off using the curves and saturations in Chuck's guide, but after about 8 hours of flying, I removed them.


Edited by Balzarog
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  • 2 months later...

this one does not have stability augmentation system. A trim and a shitload of fine cyclic movements and a truckload of practice along with a well lubed stick in case of tmwh is your way to go. Might always help to trim cyclic forward just a nudge and hold back with a little pressure on cyclic stick. Its dynamicity is what makes it stand out from the ka-50

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  • 4 months later...

i guess you never flown a helo before unlike a lot of aircraft the huey is slow to react to input. in fact if you watch some of the tutorials you will see that they add input before its desired and usually a opposite input is added at the end of the procedure to stop the input action. you have to plan your inputs in the hue ahead of time from my research

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