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Suggestions where to buy/how to make?


sk000tch

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FIrst off I just found this section, very cool stuff you guys are up to. I am inspired

 

That said, my current question is more modest. I am building a VR cockpit (If that's what you call it?). 8020 frame, center stick (long extension VKB), plans to mount fSSB or whatever the acronym is for their f-16 on right. Currently have a WH throttle because, well, I can't find a better one. I put a small gamepad (basically a 10key wtih 4 additional buttons to mirror UFC buttons to the left of thorttle, and a mouse to the right of side stick). Plans currently have MFDs on a simple mount and a T angled off the center stick mount. Basic VR stuff.

 

What is absolutely killed me is the seat. I fly a center stick plane irl, which is probably why i enjoy an unrealistically large deflection of the extended Gunfighter II.

 

This is much nicer than mine (new extra 330) but I would like something like this - note the curved extension, quit similar to the VKB:

 

w6Bo0LB.jpg

 

The fabric dusts cover isn't necessary, the main point being the cutout. Even the curved stick feels very unaturally too far forward to me. I like to have my legs almost level (seat heigh just a few inches), and at full deflection stick pulled back a good maybe 5-6" from abdomen,with the ability to rest my arm on my leg under straight and level flight.

 

Does anyone know of anybody that makes a seat with a cut out? I can't find one any where.

 

The other thing I am considering is making one out of a sprint car type seat. I could pick up an RCI lowback for $50, I could then easily cutout the section required, put a jetseat (the FSE has the coutout as well), and though I'm no seamstress, I am pretty sure I could modify a seat cover as needed. And at $50 for the cover, I would be upset if I mess it up.

 

Seat I'm talking about: https://www.summitracing.com/parts/rci-8020s

Cover: https://www.summitracing.com/parts/rci-8021s/overview/

 

You can get fancier but I'm not sure I see the point of high bolsters and such. If I fall out it won't be from G forces. There are lots of other options, aviation stuff is prohibitively expensive, any the highback seats seem like would interfere with headset cord, maybe even tracking, and again, just generally be more than necessary. That said, these aluminum vintage seats would be easy to mount, and already have the triangle cut out. More expensive though. Examples here: https://www.summitracing.com/parts/kir-55150v and https://www.summitracing.com/parts/kir-5517001v

 

Anyway, that's my thinking at the moment. If anyone has any better ideas or links to manufacture I missed please let me know - this si the only thing holding up my build!

just a dude who probably doesn't know what he's talking about

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That seat looks to me like its custom made, why dont you buy some decent foam and just make your own?

 

 

Car seats are on springs and weigh a lot and are not very customisable due to the fact they are a primary safety device in a vehicle.

 

 

If you ever take apart a office chair its only sponge/foam on plywood, you could use a mixture of both, cut and glue it to shape and then hide it all under a nice cover?

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That seat looks to me like its custom made, why dont you buy some decent foam and just make your own?

 

 

Car seats are on springs and weigh a lot and are not very customisable due to the fact they are a primary safety device in a vehicle.

 

 

If you ever take apart a office chair its only sponge/foam on plywood, you could use a mixture of both, cut and glue it to shape and then hide it all under a nice cover?

 

 

It's actually from an extra-330, unlimited class aerobatic plane with a very comfortable seating position. Certainly custom for the airplane, but I wasn't sure if that's what you meant.

 

So, my thing on making it from scratch. I've had good office chairs and bad ones, and its a big difference. I feel like if I make it its more likely to be on the "bad one." side. If I use a cheap poly race seat I can always add foam to it, using the poly shell as a frame. And at least then I have the cover already made right?

 

Anyway, still looking... so if anyone happens to know of anything....

 

*edit - did you look at that seat? Its not a typical honda seat. Just a poly shell with a vinyl cover. They're race seats, usually for spring cars, so they don'[t have the high backs that most car race seats do.

just a dude who probably doesn't know what he's talking about

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Yea I'd say start with a cheap plastic Summit Drag bucket. At worst you're out what $40? You're cutting it up anyways so go cheap. You may need to in fill it when you cut the hole for the stick since it may be using the front lip for rigidity, or you may find it's shorter than you think and then you just need to make extensions AROUND the stick and not cut any hole at all.

 

What you should never do is RACE with them. Trust me as a LeMons racer, those things are worse than just sitting on a milk crate. But they make great stationary seat solutions.

 

I wouldn't even bother with the cover at first, you may find it's comfortable enough (but probably not) and if you do like it but want it cushier take it to an upholsterer. They can probably do you up a custom job that fits the stick hole for close to that cover's price.

 

Skip the Kirkey's unless you really hate your tailbone or want to spend a ton of money on upholstering. Did a race in a cheap Kirkey, back is too upright and the bottom has no dip. Good for a quick pass on the drag strip, but not so hot for a 2 hour stint.

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Nice work Goblin, I'm on the fence about whether to bother with a spring/cushion seat like that or summit shell. Leaning toward the latter given its so cheap if I don't like it im only out $50.

 

Rustbelt - Agreed on the kirky, mostly posting for contrast. That's my concern with the shells in general though. As you said, fine for a 1/4 mile, not for a 2 hour stint. I'm leaning toward to RCI, just looks more ergonomic, but the summit lowback is wider looking. I like the upholsterer suggestion as well, presumably I'll get something much closer to the Extra in my original post going that route.

 

My only concern is bolsters. We don't need em in planes as no lateral G (plus you aren't moving in a hooker harness), so the seats are wider. I just don't want anything interfering with the free movement of my right arm.

 

Anyway, thanks for advice. I'll give it a go and post an update

just a dude who probably doesn't know what he's talking about

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Since you fly an Extra, you're probably a good deal skinnier than I am, but the Bolsters on those kind of seats never really got in my way at all. Not sure which one they have at the store (I'm spoiled, i live 45 min from a Summit), but whatever polly seat they do have out, it's shallower than you think. there's practically no useful bolster support it's basically a bucket.

 

But again, I'm Fat.

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Hah... that’s not my extra, though I’ve flown plenty. I fly a modified su-29, which due to the size of the m14p is about as wide as your average lazy-boy, with elementary school cafeteria seat inspired cushions, but it sure sounds a lot sexier than any lycoming

 

Fwiw as a bigger man myself these monos are like a Cadillac compares to the Pitts of 20 years ago, and while we might lose a little useful load it’s better to fit like a glove then bounce around like a can of spare change when tumbling

just a dude who probably doesn't know what he's talking about

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It is simply better to do the seat by yourself if you want to get it easily for your specifications.

 

All that you really need is first the dimensions and measurements for your seat.

 

A one sheet of 18mm plywood and you only need to cut four main parts (both sides, backplate and seat) and then couple pieces to attach your joystick to it, and depending tools available, few small parts more for attachments).

 

Then you need foam to be cut for cushion and then some wanted fabric cut to each foam part and sewed as covers.

 

If you have all the tools you need (jigsaw (+router) pencil, ruler, drill, glue/screws/bolts, sand paper, then you can make all the wooden parts with just those. Then you need the sewing machine, scissors, pen to make the seat cushion itself.

 

The really challenging problem for most people is the workspace. As you need to buy a large sheet of plywood (that you can get cut to good sizes in the hardware store) and transport it. And then have the measurements so you can overlay them on one sheet, screw the two sheets together and cut the pieces. And that requires little patience with jigsaw if not having a circular saw, and then some work to get the woodparts together by various means (neatest, best is to use router to encarve 18mm slides and then glue the pieces together).

 

If you want curved etc cushions, that is then done better with different materials in that, as you can shape those with knives, scissors etc how you want.

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I have shop room, i am better setup and experienced with wood but can cut//grind/shape most metal and weld some.

 

I am exclusively vr, and prefer the strength, modularity of aluminum. Though intend to work in some laquered/polished panels for certain surfaces.

 

Just something that’s looks good enough for the area, with sturdy mounts, that can be upgraded as I change my gear. I’ve giving up on the idea of dual race sim use.

 

Leaning towards blank anodized extruded aluminum. I became a member of hornet pits but that’s not for me, it doesn’t have to be a 100% replica, just work

 

 

,

just a dude who probably doesn't know what he's talking about

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You could make your own...

Here’s a pic of my old racing car seat, in which I made a center stick cut out, and my new seat.

 

Here’s the build thread for my VR pit and seat.

https://forums.mudspike.com/t/simbox-ng/6526/396

 

Here’s a thread for the conversion of a car seat to flightsim seat,

https://forums.mudspike.com/t/new-seat-for-the-simbox/6105

That´s utterly outstanding, congrats.

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If you can work with wood, you can work with Aluminum. It's a gateway drug metal.

 

Lol I can cut and shape aluminum fine but I only have an old stick welder that I don’t think can (or at least I don’t know) weld aluminum. But the stuff we are talking about isn’t a problem

 

The 8020 type extrusion material is appealing though due to its modularity and ability to change as I get different equipment, I can then make plate components or nicely finished hardwood tables for mouse, game pad, etc.

 

I admire the hornet pit type stuff people build but I fly VR, and want something suitable for multiple modules with easy to find controls (with headset on), for flexible bindings that work among multiple modules. My plan is to supplement the VKB center stick with a realsims force sensitive right side when the viper drops. Then I’ll have a real difficult decision - keep mcg pro or swap in the f14 grip and use the right side stick for everything else (leaves helos with cyclic)

just a dude who probably doesn't know what he's talking about

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Goblin I somehow missed that first link with the simbox, as above poster said that is outstanding work! No MFDs though eh? Mouse clicking mfd buttons (and UFC cords, etc), and the inability to use a kneeboard scratchpad is among my greatest irritations in VR.

 

Funny how important a friggin pencil is in a $50M jet

just a dude who probably doesn't know what he's talking about

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That´s utterly outstanding, congrats.

 

Goblin I somehow missed that first link with the simbox, as above poster said that is outstanding work!

 

Thanks, Tundra and sk000tch!

I love building things and I think I have spent more time building my sim, than flying it :prop:

 

No MFDs though eh? Mouse clicking mfd buttons (and UFC cords, etc), and the inability to use a kneeboard scratchpad is among my greatest irritations in VR.

 

Yeah, VR has limitations of it’s own... :)

I have the TM MFD’s, but I haven’t added them to the SimBox. Maybe I should try that..? :shifty:

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Lol I can cut and shape aluminum fine but I only have an old stick welder that I don’t think can (or at least I don’t know) weld aluminum.

 

 

You'll need an AC Tig and pure Argon if you want to weld aluminium - plus a fair amount of practice.

It's a rabbit hole you probably don't want to enter right at this moment ;)

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I learned how to braze aluminium, for my seat build. It’s not as strong as a weld, but strong enough for something like this. Fun too! Not too hard to learn either. I’d say that if you can learn how to solder, you can learn brazing.

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Lol I can cut and shape aluminum fine but I only have an old stick welder that I don’t think can (or at least I don’t know) weld aluminum. But the stuff we are talking about isn’t a problem

 

The 8020 type extrusion material is appealing though due to its modularity and ability to change as I get different equipment, I can then make plate components or nicely finished hardwood tables for mouse, game pad, etc.

 

 

I just built a radio stack rack for my Civilian Flight Sim with 80/20 10series That stuff is great, but can be cost prohibitive for some stuff where basic Angle or Box will do.

 

If you have a MAP/Propane torch you can Braze Aluminum which for basic sitting in and holding stuff is plenty strong enough. Don't make an Ultralight out of Brazed Aluminum, but table and chairs and such it works great.

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I learned how to braze aluminium, for my seat build. It’s not as strong as a weld, but strong enough for something like this. Fun too! Not too hard to learn either. I’d say that if you can learn how to solder, you can learn brazing.

 

 

Do did well to braze aluminium, I just melted the aluminium!

 

 

Luckily I sealed the blow torch back in its box and took it back as unused....

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I just melted the aluminium!

 

:megalol:

 

I did too! But then I reached the conclusion that the brazing rods were useless. Once I got proper rods, it was easy. Got to be careful with thin alu material though...

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I have the TM MFD’s, but I haven’t added them to the SimBox. Maybe I should try that..? :shifty:

Might be worth a try, in certain modules its really nice to not have to mouse over buttons (f18 in particular), and you can position them such that they are about where you'd expect in VR, and the tactile feel of them is enough to find the right button.

 

 

Oh, and yea you someone who knows what they're doing can weld aluminum with a stick welder.

http://http://www.hildstrom.com/projects/stickaluminum/index.html

 

ftfy

 

 

I'm sticking with 8020 on this as its easier to make things adjustable for other people and easier to reconfigure later on as I get different peripherals. Found some cool fittings that will allow center stick to fold forward and away (similar to Goblin's side panels) when using sidestick, and I still have a dual mode flight/race concept in my head that I might implement. Frankly with flight, its not much material. Just the frame, seat base, hotas mounts and lightweight Crossbeam for keyboard/MFDs. No monitor mount on this for me, not needed.

just a dude who probably doesn't know what he's talking about

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Might be worth a try, in certain modules its really nice to not have to mouse over buttons (f18 in particular), and you can position them such that they are about where you'd expect in VR, and the tactile feel of them is enough to find the right button.

 

 

 

 

ftfy

 

 

I'm sticking with 8020 on this as its easier to make things adjustable for other people and easier to reconfigure later on as I get different peripherals. Found some cool fittings that will allow center stick to fold forward and away (similar to Goblin's side panels) when using sidestick, and I still have a dual mode flight/race concept in my head that I might implement. Frankly with flight, its not much material. Just the frame, seat base, hotas mounts and lightweight Crossbeam for keyboard/MFDs. No monitor mount on this for me, not needed.

 

I mean, if you've already used a stick welder, the link I posted makes you someone who knows what to do. DC- Positive electrode.

 

After that, like any welding, it's just about practice with some junk.

 

But the 80/20 works real well too.

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