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HOTAS Warthog and the o-ring


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I doubt there will be any wear to the stick, despite warnings otherwise as without the washer there will be a gap.

 

However I think the purpose of the ring/washer is to help seal the mechanism against contamination so its better if one is installed

 

No, there will be some wear without the washer, The mechanism that places force on the stick (the large spring) is using the washer to interface between the plastic gimball and the metal plate. All this is hidden from view until you open up the stick completely. Having said this, the wear is very minimal, but it is there.

 

Hempstead still sells the washers, you can message him here, or use his forum. http://www.hempstick.org/jforum/posts/list/7.page

 

It's legit, that washer is only very slightly too tall, and should wear in over time to 100% range.

[sIGPIC][/sIGPIC]

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Can you tell me what half a + length means in terms of percent or something?

 

I don't understand what "half a + length" means

 

I'd like to get a replacement washer, as I'm currently using the stick without one.

 

I doubt there will be any wear to the stick, despite warnings otherwise as without the washer there will be a gap.

 

However I think the purpose of the ring/washer is to help seal the mechanism against contamination so its better if one is installed

 

By half a + length I mean the "+" motion marker in the axis control panel of windows.

 

I'd say you lose around 5% of range around the edges, which you can get rid of with the calibration tool. The sensor resolution of the Warthog is more than good enough, so any losses there aren't a problem.

 

The slight restriction in throw is actually quite welcome if you use an extension. I'm actually thinking of putting in a second ring to restrict it further.

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Ok so I ordered 2 from the German supplier as suggested by Boris and 2 from Hempstead through the link and post from bn880 for which I'm very grateful.

 

Hempstead was very helpful and he shipped 2 rings via normal mail to me from the US to the UK for a REALLY seriously good price

 

The German supplier charge for shipping was a bit strong but we are not talking vast sums here, anticipating the German supplier's rings to arrive weeks before Hempstead's.

 

So both arrived today!!!!

 

I just wanted to point out the German washers apart from being thicker, are sharper edged and made of a harder grade of Teflon (no me neither I thought Teflon was Teflon).

 

Don't get me wrong here I'm not saying the German rings are awful, but Hempstead's washers IMHO knock spots of them in terms of quality of finish and material.

 

He is cheaper and supplies faster than I thought possible too.

 

I just wanted to say thanks to everybody who helped me and while I'm on sing the praises of Hempstead

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Thanks for your kind words, Weegie.

 

Just wanted to add a little clarification.

 

On page #2, there is the full spec. of the PTFE ring. You are free to make as many as you wish and sell them too. If you do sell them, please let me know, so I can refer to you and get out of this community service.

 

The ring is made out of the most common grade of 1/8" thick PTFE sheet (yes, there are several grades of PTFE, including Teflon AF, an optical clear PTFE). 1/8" is slightly "too thick" and indeed interferes with the most extreme deflection of the stick just a hair. However, I chose this grade of PTFE with the thickest possible thickness so that it can:

1. be stiff enough to wedge itself in position without the aid of glue,

2. have more "meat" for wear, and

3. this grade of PTFE is softer than the ABS (?) of the gimbal, so the PTFE wears but not the gimbal, if any.

 

The next thickness, 1/16", I can get is too thin and provides not enough stiffness so it would require glue or double sided tape. That would have gotten you in the same problem like the original rubber ring -- glue failed and the ring got out of position and got pinched. However, the PTFE I use is soft enough such that after about 1 week of uses, it will form a ring of shallow depression groove due to compression and reduces the effective thickness and you get back the full deflection.

 

The change of effective thickness shouldn't affect the calibration to the degree that you can feel it. But, it wouldn't hurt to re-calibrate often.

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Thanks for your kind words, Weegie.

 

Just wanted to add a little clarification.

 

On page #2, there is the full spec. of the PTFE ring. You are free to make as many as you wish and sell them too. If you do sell them, please let me know, so I can refer to you and get out of this community service.

 

The ring is made out of the most common grade of 1/8" thick PTFE sheet (yes, there are several grades of PTFE, including Teflon AF, an optical clear PTFE). 1/8" is slightly "too thick" and indeed interferes with the most extreme deflection of the stick just a hair. However, I chose this grade of PTFE with the thickest possible thickness so that it can:

1. be stiff enough to wedge itself in position without the aid of glue,

2. have more "meat" for wear, and

3. this grade of PTFE is softer than the ABS (?) of the gimbal, so the PTFE wears but not the gimbal, if any.

 

The next thickness, 1/16", I can get is too thin and provides not enough stiffness so it would require glue or double sided tape. That would have gotten you in the same problem like the original rubber ring -- glue failed and the ring got out of position and got pinched. However, the PTFE I use is soft enough such that after about 1 week of uses, it will form a ring of shallow depression groove due to compression and reduces the effective thickness and you get back the full deflection.

 

The change of effective thickness shouldn't affect the calibration to the degree that you can feel it. But, it wouldn't hurt to re-calibrate often.

 

 

Hi Hempstead,

 

I was planning on contacting you about this for many months already but have been busy and kept putting it off, but I've been making these dustshields for Warthogs (retail and wholesale) and was planning on offering replacement o-rings as well but didn't want to step on your toes so will gladly relieve you of this seeing as you want out.

 

www.dualsticks.com/dustshields

 

 

All PTFE is very soft and has what is referred to as 'high memory', meaning once it deforms it does not spring back into shape unlike most other plastics hence why the groove wears into it and the ABS is stable, though I'm sure softer grades this happens faster than the harder ones. It's also available with acid etching on one side, to facilitate PSA or glue.

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Hi Hempstead,

 

I was planning on contacting you about this for many months already but have been busy and kept putting it off, but I've been making these dustshields for Warthogs (retail and wholesale) and was planning on offering replacement o-rings as well but didn't want to step on your toes so will gladly relieve you of this seeing as you want out.

 

www.dualsticks.com/dustshields

 

 

All PTFE is very soft and has what is referred to as 'high memory', meaning once it deforms it does not spring back into shape unlike most other plastics hence why the groove wears into it and the ABS is stable, though I'm sure softer grades this happens faster than the harder ones. It's also available with acid etching on one side, to facilitate PSA or glue.

 

Thadiun,

 

Go ahead, knock yourself out. ;-) As I said, I only do the PTFE rings as a community service, making no profit at all. So, if you want to make them and sell them, I'd gladly bow out.

 

There are PTFE sheets that are made one side bondable. I have experimented with them as well. The original idea was actually a very thin 1/32" thick PTFE one-side bondable sheet, with an 1/32" thick aluminum or steel ring for stiffening to make it almost exactly the same thickness as the original rubber O-ring. Couple of problems with that prototype.

1. Even with epoxy, the bond eventually delaminate.

2. The 1/32" thick aluminum or steel ring is still too thin, they buckle easily. So, they still need to be glued down. That defeats the whole purpose of the stiffening ring, as glue eventually get attacked by the grease/oil (depending on the kind of grease/oil you use, and you know some clueless will use WD-40; and I have actually heard somebody did it).

 

The composite ring is particularly prone to de-lamination when the ring is bend. And that's exactly when you actually need it to stay bonded. I found out the hard way that to prevent this problem, you actually have to up the total thickness to about 1/8" for the composite ring. But, I also found out that at 1/8" thick, a solid PTFE ring at 1/8" thick would do that job by itself. So, no point of doing the extra busy work of using a stiffening ring that ups the costs and works. ;-)

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  • 1 year later...

e051s3.jpg

 

Good evening, my Warthog unfortunately also had trouble with that rubber ring.

I'm looking to buy and I found this post related to this and as this post already has more than a year is still someone is making this ring to replace?

I'm from Brazil, do I have to?

Or I can find someone who does it for me, maybe it's harder to find the correct material. So what's up Teflon recommended right?

 

Thank youpg[/img]

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Good evening, my Warthog unfortunately also had trouble with that rubber ring.

I'm looking to buy and I found this post related to this and as this post already has more than a year is still someone is making this ring to replace?

I'm from Brazil, do I have to?

Or I can find someone who does it for me, maybe it's harder to find the correct material. So what's up Teflon recommended right?

 

Thank youpg[/img]

 

Teflon flat washer. Found those things in shop who sell pipe and seals or online. You may have to cut the inner by yourself if there is no suitable rings.


Edited by Insonia
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  • 5 months later...
  • 6 months later...

The ring should be placed like on a second picture.

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