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Not a real homecockpit but...


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The past few weeks, I´ve been working on a little switchbox panel, specially for the MiG-21. :) I wanted to do this because It is rather difficult to switch from A-G to A-A in the MiG-21. You have a lot of buttons to press and you must do it with either a lot of cockpit-mouse clicking, or with hard to remember keyboard short-cuts.

 

The base is the BU8036X from Leo Bodnar. All of the buttons (except the rotaries) are programmed with SVmapper. The little round connector is for the USB connection. It looks more 'military' then a simple flat USB connector. The small flat connector is for adding the Thrustmaster Rudder Control System, modified with toebrakes. (not that it is usable on the MiG-21) I also added a flat 25 pole connector. It is currently empty. But I want to built another panel with the 8 push switches and the three toggle switches to control the radar. I'll be adding texts, in russian or in english, I haven't decided yet.

 

20150423_195506_zps5djbinej.jpg

 

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Edited by 1.JaVA_Platypus
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Happy Flying! :pilotfly:

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That's sweet

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Awesome! Its looking to be a very professional job Platypus. You inspired me to make something a little... easier.

 

I just finished my attempt this weekend... its a bit more compact. And my wiring looks like vomit compared to yours...so i wont show it.

 

Please try to make something with a switch cover in game, because i cannot for the life of me work out how to modify the lua file to first open the switch cover and the press the button with one button press of my panel switch...

 

My Bombardment/Shooting sticker is around the wrong way, yes... i must fix this.

 

uc?export=view&id=0B7FcCOtQKkQfTXZJMzJia1JlY00

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Few years ago I made something "similar" based on cheap gamepad circuit board. If your wiring looks like a vomit then i don't know how mine does :D.

 

Your both guys projects looks pretty cool and now I consider to create something based on MJoy16 board (I can't afford Leo Bodnars one).

 

Anyway, here are some pics :D

 

DSC00083.thumb.JPG.fcf6517f866ae626b56b806329173ee0.JPG

DSC00086.thumb.JPG.fce269ec899c6238d79bf0958e64a99f.JPG

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Thanks for all the comments guys! My experience as an electrician/panelbuilder certainly helps a lot with planning and executing the wiring and soldering stuff. I actually enjoy that part the most! :D

 

@Sunshine db I would try to use a program like "HIDmacros" or better, "SVmapper" to program macro's so that the flip-cover lifts first and then flips the switch. Or else you end up making your flip-cover pushing a switch which is programmed for flipping the cover in DCS...

 

@ADX94 I used Leo's USB board because they do free shipping within the UK. And a few years ago, I got a temporary job in Newcastle. Any USB board should do. But the Mjoy16 board looks rather large. Leo Bodnar's boards (especially the soldering versions) are very small and easier to put away.

 

Anyways, I got cracking on the radar-controls. All panels are made of aluminum sheet. I got no fancy metal bending tools. I did all the cutting with a hacksaw and a file to straighten out the edges and a combination of a hammer and some weights for bending. I used a cordless drill for all the holes. The panels are painted using a spray-can. They have a shine on them which is probably very beautiful on a car, but very ugly for a MiG-21 panel. So I after the paint is dry, I will use a 6000grit piece of sandpaper for it. This causes some scratches as well. But that only adds to the authenticity of the panel I think. And I personally love all the scratches in the DCS MiG-21 cockpit. It gives a certain 'charm' to the whole thing. :thumbup:

 

20150429_191620_zpsmhw3gfrh.jpg

 

The small 'bulkheads' are attached with 'poprivets' (I hope this is the proper word for it in english) I wanted to use real aircraft rivets for a more authentic feel, but they didn't really work very well. I used the latter in school, but after 20 years, I must have forgotten something, because I couldn't get them properly in. The biggest hole is about 16mm in diameter and was cut with a conical drill. I am particulary proud of the symmetry of the two bulkheads. You can not see it in this picture, but it is within 0.5mm tolerance. Quite and extrodinary feat with only handtools available.

 

20150429_191638_zpshv3s7im5.jpg

Happy Flying! :pilotfly:

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From my experience as a builder of scale aircraft, the difference between a 'good' and a 'great' model is in small details. This is one of those details, wich I hope will add a bit of a 'wow' factor to the whole project. This is an authentic aluminum typeplate from a MiG-23 actually. It is from the one at the Tobit bar in Ahaus, Germany. I obtained it fair and square, I didn't steal it. :smilewink:

 

20150506_211944_zpsq4noglrr.jpg

 

After the paint dried and the 'sandpaper treatment', I got cracking on the wiring. Wich is the most enjoyable part for me. I stripped the 25-strand cable and attached it with a DIY bracket from aluminum strip. The soldering was a bit fiddly and I had to bend over it a bit. Because of that, I had a headache for the rest of the day, probably because of the toxic soldering fumes... :doh:

 

20150503_102701_zpsaemgic7f.jpg

 

Wiring finished! I wrapped the bundle witch paper-tape again. This not only looks authentic, it is a very good way to bundle all your wires. The tape is about 4 or 5mm wide.

 

IMG-20150503-WA0008_zpshrfcljh1.jpeg

 

This is the front! I connected the panel with a 25-pin D-sub connector. The radar on/off/standby switch is flanked by two brass U-tubes (not youtube) I used the head of a beer bottle again to bend them into shape. And I attached them with pop-rivets because it is waaaaaaaayyy easier then with the soldering stuff I did earlier.

 

20150506_213218_zpsqx51sre6.jpg

 

Next-up, texts!

Happy Flying! :pilotfly:

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Nice ideas you've got there, looks great. I'm inspired but I think I'll have to find a softer material to use, as I know that after a couple of minutes of trying to cut anything harder than plastic with a hacksaw, my tedious health problems make my hands and arms hurt real bad. Ideally I'd use acrylic but without the right tools I think I'd probably destroy it and I don't even know how to work with it, so wood will probably be my best bet.

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Aluminum can be cut with a motorized saw as well. (Use a fine blade) But to make all the edges straight and perpendicular, you need a file. Or maybe use scissors or something. Aluminum is really quite soft and small sheets are available in a DIY store. I never worked with acrylic, it sounds pretty tough to me.

Happy Flying! :pilotfly:

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  • 2 weeks later...

This is the front! I connected the panel with a 25-pin D-sub connector. The radar on/off/standby switch is flanked by two brass U-tubes (not youtube) I used the head of a beer bottle again to bend them into shape. And I attached them with pop-rivets because it is waaaaaaaayyy easier then with the soldering stuff I did earlier.

 

Connecting plates can perform by spot welding ( puncturing ) for the steel sheets.

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