Anyone used KMA210 magnetic sensors before?

https://www.nxp.com/docs/en/data-sheet/KMA210.pdf

Or anyone that understand its datasheet for the matter?

What i would like to do on my project stick is to reduce the angle range (its 180 by default) to something more like 60 and set the zero to be somewhere around 150 degrees for it to sit better in the stick.

Granted, i don't actually know if its even required, as i could probably just calibrate out the data in windows from whatever the sensor sends out... The sensor is still sending out the same resolution of data its capable of, its just up to the micro to read that accurately right? As opposed to limiting the range in chip, then i would get roughly Vdd to Vss on the data pin instead of whatever fraction i get now.

I think i pretty much understand how to enter the programming mode and such in code, but the tables (page 25-26) for setting the zero and range just confuse me. I'll definitely work on doing it proper for now, i'm still waiting on some new switches for the stick as is so no flying with it yet.

Any help with this chip would be appreciated though!

Hi.

I use KMA210 in my projects. Datasheet states max angle resolution as 0.04. So, on 180 degree range it gives you 4500 steps. If you plan to use DIY arduino based controller you can simply read output with good ADC and restrict output in software. If you plan to replace ordinary potentiometer in some joystick from the market you will probably need to program KMA210 to emulate full output on smaller angles. I have developed Arduino sketch for this purpose, but it is not stable and works from time to time.

MMJoy2 firmware for Arduinos (ATMEGA32u4) support KMA200. Guys in Russian sim DIY community have used this sensor.

KMA200 advantage is integrate an amplifier, don't need use an external and an PCB, like KMZ-41.

Seems that KMA200 is not user programmable, like in MLX90333 (require expensive hardware programmer), so you can't set all resolution in a smaller angle.

"This angular measurement module KMA210 is pre-programmed, pre-calibrated and therefore, ready to use."

AS5600 is programable, and have option for set without hardware programmer - anyway a suitable programmer don't cost four digits like required by Melexis.

http://ams.com/eng/Products/Magnetic-Position-Sensors/Angle-Position-On-Axis/AS5600,

KMA200 is not user programmable

KMA200 is not. KMA210 is. It is different sensor with simple ratiometric analog output.

@Gorgok

What is the intended use, 180deg seems a large input range for a control.

The KMA210 looks very good but to use it for anything more then say a UGM3503 /A1302 would require a programmer which could be built using an Atmel AVR platform and some external glue.

A disadvantage of the 3503 devices is that the output voltage is between about 0.8V and 4.2V (ish) so it not a full 0 to 5V so some scaling is required if you need the full range either in the analogue or digital domain. The other possibility is to use a custom curve in the settings menu for that axis input.

Hi.

 

I use KMA210 in my projects. Datasheet states max angle resolution as 0.04. So, on 180 degree range it gives you 4500 steps. If you plan to use DIY arduino based controller you can simply read output with good ADC and restrict output in software. If you plan to replace ordinary potentiometer in some joystick from the market you will probably need to program KMA210 to emulate full output on smaller angles. I have developed Arduino sketch for this purpose, but it is not stable and works from time to time.

My joysticks are all arduino/sparkfun pro micro clones, current one and throttle as well as this project with the KMA210s. I'd prefer to program the KMAs to the actual limits of my stick (more or less at least) instead of doing it in the sketch or just having windows calibrate it out just so the steps i do have (around 1/4 of the 4500 i guess) would be farther apart in voltage levels so the micro can read it more accurately. Not sure how good the onboard adc is for the current voltage steps, i didn't plan on using any more circuitry...

@Gorgok

 

What is the intended use, 180deg seems a large input range for a control.

 

The KMA210 looks very good but to use it for anything more then say a UGM3503 /A1302 would require a programmer which could be built using an Atmel AVR platform and some external glue.

 

A disadvantage of the 3503 devices is that the output voltage is between about 0.8V and 4.2V (ish) so it not a full 0 to 5V so some scaling is required if you need the full range either in the analogue or digital domain. The other possibility is to use a custom curve in the settings menu for that axis input.

The KMA210 is also rotational, not linear. I have a magnet perpendicular to the axis and the sensor reads that. I actually wouldn't know how to use a linear sensor in a gimbal, but i haven't really thought about it before now either... Just looked for something rotational and cheap(ish) and ended up on the KMA210.

Being of the DIY mindset i went ahead and got 10 when i started the project figuring i would make the stick (2 sensors), then maybe some pedals (3), maybe a throttle with nozzle/flap lever (3) and maybe a collective once i get bored with the 'easy' projects (last 2). Not knowing how to use it yet was not a limiting factor on going full steam ahead for me. I always just assume i can figure it out eventually and just keep at it.

The KMA210 is also rotational, not linear. I have a magnet perpendicular to the axis and the sensor reads that. I actually wouldn't know how to use a linear sensor in a gimbal, but i haven't really thought about it before now either... Just looked for something rotational and cheap(ish) and ended up on the KMA210.

 

Being of the DIY mindset i went ahead and got 10 when i started the project figuring i would make the stick (2 sensors), then maybe some pedals (3), maybe a throttle with nozzle/flap lever (3) and maybe a collective once i get bored with the 'easy' projects (last 2). Not knowing how to use it yet was not a limiting factor on going full steam ahead for me. I always just assume i can figure it out eventually and just keep at it.

Kool. 8)

The 3503's seem to work pretty much like a potentiometer with the output voltage range going from .8V to 4.2V roughly with rotational movement of the magnet.

Like so.

I assume that magnet is N/S on the faces? Other than taking a bunch more space that seems to be the same way i am doing it... I'm using 5 dia x 10mm long cylinder magnets (N/S on faces).

The gimbal was a design i found on github. Tweaked it some, added some stuff to it. Made the stick based on pictures and trial. Printed it a few times so far to get to this model, which feels pretty nice... Ideally i can just unscrew that big locking ring and unplug the connector between gimbal and grip and change to something else later if i ever decide this is too fancy for whatever i'm flying.

Sensor goes in that pocket on that disk thing, reads the magnet in the pocket behind.

After the sensor, i just need to wire up the buttons and such (waiting on parts) and figure out a mount to attach it to my seat. Hopefully the 22.5 degree offset is right for actual use, not sure how much to lean it forward yet though. Some definitely feels better than none as i test it in my lap, but that isn't something critical to get right in model.

They are 2 10mm dia*2mm Neodymium magnets and essentially from a centered North South magnetic field over the Hall effect device you get 1/2 supply and as you rotate one way or the other you get either up to 4.2V or down to .8V over about 50 ~ 60 degrees rotation so it's almost a replacement pot, the picture in the previous post was an evaluation mock up.

I'd likely go with an aftermarket grip on a custom gimbal :D

I'm currently working on torque pedals using a slightly different 3D printer. :)

The gimbal was a design i found on github

I'm pleased that my gimbal project was useful :)

I'm pleased that my gimbal project was useful :)

Its lovely. Easy to print and really quite nice feeling. Other than resizing some of the bearing fits (probably mostly to do with how my printer prints) and editing the lever arm (added a panel mount cable hole, lengthened, and keyed) it is as original.

Might still have to get a little heavier springs, it centers just fine but it may be a little soft with the length of it now. Added the little sensor caps, the top girdle (bottom will mount to steel bracket) and a bracket on the front for a custom pcb with my pro micro.

As is, the joystick feels way better than what i fly with (i'm cheap, its a pxn-2119) and since the logic will be the same (i replaced the boards in both throttle and stick with pro micros a long time ago, while doing other 'improvements') i think this will be a winner.

So do you have anything or are you simply patting yourselves on the back?