[WIP] DIY Rudder pedals - design input wanted - Page 2 - ED Forums
 


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Old 09-07-2017, 09:01 AM   #11
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Thats a really good point. Especially the cam will be suspectible to wear. I guess I could put some sheet metal over the cam surface to reduce wear. As for bearings, yeah oversizing might work or I could make inlays for the bearings made out of composite material, like a cutting board or some such.
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Old 09-07-2017, 11:18 AM   #12
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Ok, here is the steering damper integration, plenty of space in the middle. I will probably achieve about 40 degrees of angle vs. 35 for the old layout.
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Old 09-08-2017, 10:20 AM   #13
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Don't rule out using actual ball bearing assemblies, I have now used them in my collective with good effect replacing the bushes that I used in an earlier build.

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Old 09-08-2017, 12:11 PM   #14
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Yeah that was my plan to use ball bearings, the big holes are cutouts for the 22mm ball bearings. I plan on having ball bearings in all moving pivots except the gas springs and damper.

Can someone show me how you have your magnets and hall sensors set up? How far do the magnets and sensor be from magnetic metals (steel)?
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Old 09-08-2017, 03:26 PM   #15
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Probable the best option is use diametrical magnetized rings and place the sensor inside the ring.

Or the "Bic HALL pot" assembly, with two square magnets.

http://simhq.com/forum/ubbthreads.ph...ml#Post3674791

http://www.mikesflightdeck.com/images/hslin.jpg

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Old 09-08-2017, 06:17 PM   #16
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I found some neodymium magnet rings with 16mm diameter, so if I place these outside of a 16mm plastic tube and the sensor inside the tube I will be good? Or is 16mm too much?
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Old 09-08-2017, 10:17 PM   #17
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Only trying to know, generally the more close the magnet to sensor better, the ideal distance is ~2/2.5mm.

BTW - In this video the guy are replacing the main bearings in their T-Rudder "clone" - he is aeronautical mechanic and has access to some advance machine tool, so can easily work with metal.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?time_c...&v=kmETH-8mNyo

The reason for replace the two bearings in the magnet support axis by conical bearings is because the previous bearing model allow small lateral movement in magnet support axis, what disturb the HALL readings (I have the same problem installing HALL in CH pedals, that don't use bearing in axis pivot and so had lot of lateral play, no issue for pot, but problematic for HALL.

Notice that in T-Rudder the axis for magnet support is not direct in pedal bar, but indirect moved using turnbuckles for transmite the pedals movement for magnet support axis.

In a pedal where the magnet is installed in main bar axis the risk of this (possible) issue increase, since foots weight are acting over the bar.
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Old 09-08-2017, 10:32 PM   #18
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Yeah ok, good to know. I thought a lot about sensor placement in the brakes today, and thought about getting a spur gear setup that transfers the main pivot point in a 2 to 1 ratio to a second bearing with a bic pen hall pot inside. This way I get a larger usable movement. 3d printing said gears would be easy but I don't have access to a 3d printer right now.
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Old 09-09-2017, 02:24 AM   #19
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IMO - You should avoid use gears - unnecessary complication, and brake pedals don't need much course.
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Old 09-09-2017, 09:39 AM   #20
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I see that you take it very seriously so my advise would be to drop the wood and do it in aluminium.
Aluminium is not so expensive and you can buy all pieces on ebay. Also toolwise you need pretty much the same tools as for wood.
For inspiration, see below:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=idbqp039RNU

https://forums.eagle.ru/showthread.php?t=181647

https://forums.eagle.ru/showthread.php?t=171406
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