AV8B Harrier Panels

Look smart Brew

Thx! Got 4 panels updated, slow going.

You are prolific, it takes me a week to do 1!

You are prolific, it takes me a week to do 1!

Actually to be honest they were all done already and all I am doing is updating the measurements per the DZUS pdf. The lettering I don't have to touch to much just adjust them.

Redo 2 on panels. sorry for those that have looked at them already but I think this is that last update unless anyone have anything to add feel free too.

I'm glad I found this thread. Your work looks awesome. I just started working on the canopy frame in Fusion 360. In lue of a quality photo or diagram of the frame, I took a screenshot in game. Using 5.75" width of the UFC for my base measurement, I calibrated the image to that. It'll be more guesswork than science, but it's a start.

I'm glad I found this thread. Your work looks awesome. I just started working on the canopy frame in Fusion 360. In lue of a quality photo or diagram of the frame, I took a screenshot in game. Using 5.75" width of the UFC for my base measurement, I calibrated the image to that. It'll be more guesswork than science, but it's a start.

Awesome. So all of mine are EYE ball guess work! But I based them on the size of the DZUS fastener layout. And try to make the lettering look proportional to the panel size.So hopefully they are close. Right now I have been working on converting the panels in F360 cam to gcode for routing them out. This has proved to be challenging! I am wondering how the lettering will turn out, When I measure the width of the lettering it measures .686 mm. Barley over half a mm. Then when I try processing the toolpath there is all ways a problem. Steep learning curve I guess. Thanks!

SO finally! I got my CNC router running and burned off some parts. Base panel looks awesome and the top panel looks ok but there was some flaws in Fusion 360 interpreting the tool paths which I have no Idea how to fix but I think the panel looks great for my first one. A couple of restarts broken bits and had to find some more acrylic sheets that would hold up to a router. Original one I bought kept melting. Local plastic guy says he thinks I got some stuff with styrene in it. I did have to adjust the lettering from 6mm to 7mm and make it bold just so I could get it to create paths for my 1 mm endmill I bought. Another road block I had was all the lettering I did on the files I saved I had to redo them when I extruded the panel to create the tool paths. I had to redo them on the face I was going to router it on. To extrude the panel and then the lettering form the sketch fusion 360 didn't like for some reason. I also still have too 3d print a box or since I have router now maybe I could cut out a box to mount my panel. I found this local plastic shop that has tons of products! Anyways super stoked with the router seems to be ok for home built.Once I get the side panels im going to finishing drawing the dash.

Franken CNC router.

Nice

i build my cnc too for my simpit Harrier

Nice

i build my cnc too for my simpit Harrier

Awesome! How is it working can you share a pic! How far along is your simpit?

Awesome! How is it working can you share a pic! How far along is your simpit?

with pleasure

i built slowly :smilewink:

So this is what have got so far. I have buzzed out 4 panels, 4 bases and 4 tops. I figure out formula for lettering. Using a .5mm carbide end mill pocketing the letters and 2mm end mill for holes and cutting out panels. I plan to paint the sides and top of the bases to cover the white that can be seen from the top. The current files I have uploaded I have to modified the lettering little when I build the tool paths in Fus360. Some of the lettering have to be enlarged to accommodate the .5mm and end mill I'm using. But it's coming along. I think I'm gonna spend some time to build a throttle too gonna draw up the panel and switches as place holder.. I do have to redo a couple of the base panels. I was not paying attention to the acrylic I was buying and the guy over the counter gave me 2 different sizes. So the bases are 1/4 and the top plates are 3/16. So I have acouple of bases that 3/16 I need to redo in to 1/4 acrylic. There not perfect but I can all ways redo and update later. The tops are held down and independent of the base plate so I can pull the 3mm screws and tops come off with out disturbing the panel. I also plan to use vinyl or aluminium tape to black out the areas on the bottom to eliminate the light bleed except for the lettering.

Very nice, not been able to make progress myself due to life

Very nice, not been able to make progress myself due to life

Thanks! I definitely can appreciate the life problem.

FYI! Ok so I ran into a problem when using the M33558 font. When using the letter D the inner lines are all messed up. Now it didn't matter much for the just looking at it but when I went to post process the tool path's in Fus360 it would throw a fault. So every time I use the letter D I have to redraw parts of it. So the panels when I am working on the tool paths I correct the inner curve and the top and bottom lines of the D. So far its only been the letter D.

Pre fix

After the fix. It's not perfect but it doesn't confuse Fus360.

the M33558 font has had that problem for years you will also have problems with numbers

Ive found that with some letters as well in ProDesktop..

I have been fiddling with this font for while trying to get it to work good. I have later found out that in Fusion360 you have to explode the text and create a physical presence on the part for the tool pathing to work. The only thing that doesn't look good is the D. I have tried the numbers and they pop out fine with tool path. It also doesn't have any these character support " -=+ ". weird stuff shows up so I just use special characters from another generic font. All though the one program that produce this font with great results is CamBam. It makes the lettering perfect. But Fus360 is a better price for my hobby.

Congratulations.

Dream Commodore 64C, 1530 datasette, 1541 floppy disk drive, DCS cartridge, competition pro joystick, 14” Tv with VCR.

so with many echec i abort my project DYI CNC

Thank you ever so much for releasing those files mate. Currently building my own sim pit for the Harrier so these helped me cut down a bunch of time. I'm printing mine though instead of CNC, results are... interesting so far. Definately not going to be able to backlight but these still look the business.

:pilotfly:

Thank you for sharing these. I'm trying to print these with my 3D printer but the printer only works on G Code files. Does anybody know what the best way is to convert F3d files to G code? I tried doing it with Fusion360 but getting nowhere. 

On 12/31/2020 at 7:36 PM, Bbow said:

Thank you for sharing these. I'm trying to print these with my 3D printer but the printer only works on G Code files. Does anybody know what the best way is to convert F3d files to G code? I tried doing it with Fusion360 but getting nowhere. 

I guess you are familiar with Fusion 360 and you know that you have to use the included sketches in the file to make solid bodies?

When you have done that right click on the body you want to export in the component list and choose save as STL.
Check the "send to 3d utility" and select MeshMixer from the drop down menu.

A new window with MeshMixer will open.
Select file - export and save as an STL file.

Then you can open the STL file  in your favorite slicer program etc Cura to be able to create the G-code file needed for the 3D printer.

No, not familiar with Fusion 360 at all and finding it quite frustrating to convert the files. 

The included sketches that you mention , are those the F3D files you mean?   I'll youtube it to see how to make solid bodies.  I'll try this as a first step and see where I get. 

Thank you for your help.  

On 1/2/2021 at 1:08 AM, Potato Pilot said:

I guess you are familiar with Fusion 360 and you know that you have to use the included sketches in the file to make solid bodies?

When you have done that right click on the body you want to export in the component list and choose save as STL.
Check the "send to 3d utility" and select MeshMixer from the drop down menu.

 

A new window with MeshMixer will open.
Select file - export and save as an STL file.

 

Then you can open the STL file  in your favorite slicer program etc Cura to be able to create the G-code file needed for the 3D printer.

 I did it!!!  Thank you so much for your help! 

So I managed to make a solid body out of the drawing. Then I converted it to STL, and then to a G code file. 

I made the top panel (with the lettering on it) 3 mm think, is that about right? I think on the next one I will make it 2 mm. 

Can anyone confirm the size of the SAAHS panel?   I just want to make sure mine is the correct size.