ice_pdb Posted October 3, 2016 Share Posted October 3, 2016 (edited) mega_mozg_13, Antivirus is giving virus positive on that last download. Edit: Had to try 4 times to download it for the antivirus not give me a detect. Still Chrome does say it's risky file... Somthing to do with the file hoster? After I got the file I scanned with same antivirus that gave positive and it was clean.. after 4 download. Edited October 3, 2016 by ice_pdb New info Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Goblin Posted October 3, 2016 Share Posted October 3, 2016 Brewnix, Try setting the encoders up with 2 columns and 6 rows, instead. So the encoders use the same 2 columns, but individual rows. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brewnix Posted October 3, 2016 Share Posted October 3, 2016 Brewnix, Try setting the encoders up with 2 columns and 6 rows, instead. So the encoders use the same 2 columns, but individual rows. Ok i can try that! Thanks [sIGPIC][/sIGPIC] Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sokol1_br Posted October 6, 2016 Author Share Posted October 6, 2016 (edited) Is there a way a new board could replace the boards in... say a TM Cougar TQS ... If not by additional axis on base connections, "PnP": http://forum.il2sturmovik.ru/uploads/monthly_10_2016/post-47334-0-60572900-1475673199.jpg On sales there: http://forum.il2sturmovik.ru/topic/4922-prodam-rud-ot-cougar/ Edited October 6, 2016 by Sokol1_br Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sokol1_br Posted October 29, 2016 Author Share Posted October 29, 2016 The "Eject, Eject!" button of the ConTROLLer. ;) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Goblin Posted October 29, 2016 Share Posted October 29, 2016 :) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Warhog Posted November 2, 2016 Share Posted November 2, 2016 Well I seem to be stuck getting these TLE 5011 ICs to work. I flashed a Pro Micro and tested it with the A1302 hall sensors for my toe brakes (I'm building rudders pedals). They worked great. Then I copied the PCB from an early post in MMJOY2 on the SIM HQ forum and made a PCB for my application and soldered up the TLE 5011 including the resistors and caps. I started the configurator and flashed the board using B2 for the z axis and set 12 bit precision. Then tested it. I used the VKB joystick tester but there was nothing indicating the magnet was having any affect. It was a flatline. I tried several more TLE 5011's and none worked. I went to the protoboard and rebuilt the circuit and tried again. Same as before... Nada! The A1302's are working just fine but the TLE5011 seem dead. This is what I used for my pinouts: TLE5010/5011---------->Controller ProMicro(AtMega32u4) 1) 4Mhz clock----------->Pin B6 - Generator 4Mhz 2) SPI-SCK------------->Pin B1 - SPI-SCK 3) SPI-CS--------------->Any free pin 4) SPI-Data------------->Pin B3 - SPI-MISO 5) TST1----------------->To Ground 6) VDD------------------>To Power (VCC) 7) GND------------------>To Ground 8) TST2----------------->To Ground I read most of the MMJOY2 thread on the SimHQ forum so I was pretty confident I did everything correctly. Any ideas what might be causing this. Regards John W aka WarHog. My Cockpit Build Pictures... My Arduino Sketches ... https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1-Dc0Wd9C5l3uY-cPj1iQD3iAEHY6EuHg?usp=sharing WIN 10 Pro, i8-8700k @ 5.0ghz, ASUS Maximus x Code, 16GB Corsair Dominator Platinum Ram, AIO Water Cooler, M.2 512GB NVMe, 500gb SSD, EVGA GTX 1080 ti (11gb), Sony 65” 4K Display VPC MongoosT-50, TM Warthog Throttle, TRK IR 5.0, Slaw Viper Pedals Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sokol1_br Posted November 2, 2016 Author Share Posted November 2, 2016 (edited) Warthog, I am not sure, but these early PCB layout for TLE501x has more resistors than is actually need. Follow this scheme, just put wire bridges in undesired resistor positions in PCB. Notice the 1,5k value for resitors. http://simhq.com/forum/files/usergals/2016/10/full-37484-127436-full_40208_127398_mmjoy2_crawling_claws_esquemtico.jpg The resistor in PRO Micro pin 15/MISO D14 (B-3 SPI-MISO in your list) that goes for TLE pin 4 can put near the controller and shared with all TLE501x, but for convenience can be used one in each TLE501x PCB, like in your case, using only one TLE. Is the green in this drawing: image hosting 30 mb EDIT - Fixed, in the above scheme all resistors have one side connected to VCC. Red tracers is wire bridge - or use 0 resistor. I suggest you put you doubt in SimHQ, Mega_MOZG - MMJoy2 firmware author - monitor that topic and can help. EDIT - Other thing that will help "debug" is you post picture of your JoySetup config. Edited November 3, 2016 by Sokol1_br Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sokol1_br Posted November 17, 2016 Author Share Posted November 17, 2016 (edited) Looks that TLE5010 assembled announced in Taobao are now in "Uncle Ali" (or "clone" of then) - what make more easy buy then (Site in English, CC, Free Shipping). https://www.aliexpress.com/item/TLE5010-digital-mode-magnetoresistive-angle-sensor/32634095245.html I think this PCB layout is now obsolete, is with 4 resistors on inputs (see Taobao pictures), no more needed - accord this Mega_MOZG draw (this matter is a bit "confuse): http://simhq.com/forum/files/usergals/2016/10/full-37484-127436-full_40208_127398_mmjoy2_crawling_claws_esquemtico.jpg Anyway, this is easy to modify. Available too the 4 chip (32 buttons) CD4021 Shift register board: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/CD4021-4021-expansion-board-32-key-switch-shift-register-4-Key-Expansion-mounted-extension/32704781294.html EDIT - The layout is simplify relative to one in Taobao, on two # 102 resistor are placed in PCB: http://simhq.com/forum/files/usergals/2016/11/full-38872-129086-img_0023.jpg http://simhq.com/forum/files/usergals/2016/11/full-38872-129087-img_0022.jpg In this way if need is easy add the 0,1uF capacitor between + and - pins. Edited November 18, 2016 by Sokol1_br Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sokol1_br Posted November 30, 2016 Author Share Posted November 30, 2016 (edited) Shift Register PCB (Sprint Layout) copy of Tm Warthog - by CaptainBlood il2.ru forum - for SMD components: http://forum.il2sturmovik.ru/topic/5177-nuzhno-foto-platki-iz-ruchki-vartoga/#entry477096 Edited November 30, 2016 by Sokol1_br Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
debolestis Posted December 2, 2016 Share Posted December 2, 2016 Shift Register PCB (Sprint Layout) copy of Tm Warthog - by CaptainBlood il2.ru forum - for SMD components: http://forum.il2sturmovik.ru/topic/5177-nuzhno-foto-platki-iz-ruchki-vartoga/#entry477096 Thank you Sokol, great find! - Debolestis' Shapeways store - Debolestis' Facebook page - Suncom SFS and Talon restoration and mods - Cougar replacement gimbal Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rel4y Posted December 11, 2016 Share Posted December 11, 2016 Do I need to orientate the TLE5011 IC towards the magnet or away from the magnet (so that the PCB is between magnet and IC). And what is the advantage of a diametral magnet vs the normal cubes. Cougar, CH and Saitek PnP hall sensor kits + shift registers: https://forums.eagle.ru/showthread.php?t=220916 Shapeways store for DIY flight simming equipment and repair: https://www.shapeways.com/shops/rel4y-diy-joystick-flight-simming Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
debolestis Posted December 11, 2016 Share Posted December 11, 2016 I think pcb orientation doesn't matter. Every cube is also dimetrically magnetized, you just have to orient it that way. If magnet is not oriented like that sensor will not work. - Debolestis' Shapeways store - Debolestis' Facebook page - Suncom SFS and Talon restoration and mods - Cougar replacement gimbal Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rel4y Posted December 11, 2016 Share Posted December 11, 2016 Thanks. OK, so does flux density matter for a TLE5011? For the normal Hall sensors I can vary the output/resolution via putting it closer to the sensor. So why are always diametrically magnetized round or ring magnets recommended. I meant whats the advantage of these over cubic ones. Cougar, CH and Saitek PnP hall sensor kits + shift registers: https://forums.eagle.ru/showthread.php?t=220916 Shapeways store for DIY flight simming equipment and repair: https://www.shapeways.com/shops/rel4y-diy-joystick-flight-simming Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
debolestis Posted December 11, 2016 Share Posted December 11, 2016 I am not sure, probabliy "nicer looking" magnetic field. But in my experience there is no big difference. - Debolestis' Shapeways store - Debolestis' Facebook page - Suncom SFS and Talon restoration and mods - Cougar replacement gimbal Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rel4y Posted December 16, 2016 Share Posted December 16, 2016 (edited) Thanks again debolestis! Do you think this PCB layout would work? PCB dimensions are 40x10 mm, the big outer holes are spaced 30 mm. The vias are 0.5/0.8 mm and the pads are 0.6/0.8 mm as I would like to fit a 1.25 Micro connecter in there. Sadly I dont know the pins diameter of these. (https://www.aliexpress.com/item/50Sets-6-Pin-Single-End-SH-Pitch-1-25mm-15cm-28AWG-Wire-To-Board-Connector/32584475511.html?spm=2114.13010208.99999999.264.nzHKEu) Is it possible to solder these into the via pads? I have never done a two sided PCB before. For some reason my OSH Park uploads alway go sideways.. :cry: The drill file seems to be incorrect and bottom copperlayer is missing. Could you guys please help me? Processing MMJoy2_TLE5011.zip as generic ZIP file. Removed empty file "MMJoy2_TLE5011_soldermask_bottom.gbr". Removed empty file "MMJoy2_TLE5011_soldermask_top.gbs". Your project doesn't contain a bottom copper file. Your project doesn't contain a bottom solder mask. 2 layer board of 1.58x0.40 inches. Edited December 16, 2016 by rel4y Cougar, CH and Saitek PnP hall sensor kits + shift registers: https://forums.eagle.ru/showthread.php?t=220916 Shapeways store for DIY flight simming equipment and repair: https://www.shapeways.com/shops/rel4y-diy-joystick-flight-simming Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sokol1_br Posted December 16, 2016 Author Share Posted December 16, 2016 Looks OK - based on latest Mega_MOZG sketch about you need only one capacitor. http://simhq.com/forum/files/usergals/2016/10/full-37484-127436-full_40208_127398_mmjoy2_crawling_claws_esquemtico.jpg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rel4y Posted December 16, 2016 Share Posted December 16, 2016 Thanks Sokol! I see that Mega_Mozg doesnt use these in his newer sketches anymore but he said this somewhere in the SimHQ thread: R1-R4 - 10-100 OHM, optional. for protecive on long wires. R5-R6 - 1-10 kOHM, required. need to hold up "data" and "select" digital lines. C1 - 0.1uF (ceramic 104), required. used on all sorts of applications to decouple ICs from power supplies. C2 - 10uF (tantal A), optional. these capacitor are great transient/surge suppressor.Well and since I already bought these Tantal Caps I need to get rid of them, right? :smilewink: I am getting closer to a good upload on OSH Park. I got the drill file right this time. Only problem remaining is my Pads/Vias for the 1.25 JST connector are masked. How can I unmask them so the copper is exposed? Cougar, CH and Saitek PnP hall sensor kits + shift registers: https://forums.eagle.ru/showthread.php?t=220916 Shapeways store for DIY flight simming equipment and repair: https://www.shapeways.com/shops/rel4y-diy-joystick-flight-simming Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sokol1_br Posted December 16, 2016 Author Share Posted December 16, 2016 (edited) Seems you are using Sprint Layout, so use the "ground plan" for remove copper around trail/pads: This above is your layout simplify for one side board, what lower the manufacturer cost. High increase 1mm. If want remove all copper surface - unless the needed for trail and pads - apply a "Zone" over all board surface (left side tool bar) and check "Cut-out area". Edited July 4, 2019 by Sokol1_br Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rel4y Posted December 16, 2016 Share Posted December 16, 2016 (edited) Thanks Sokol! The problem is with the soldermask layers. On OSH Park the manufacturing cost is the same for one or two sided boards, so its not really a problem to me. For some reason the soldermask on the OSH Park upload are off, but only for the JST pads/vias. You can see it on the pictures of the project. I think cutting areas here wont help, because then the soldermask is completely gone in this area. Its probably how the vias are saved in the Gerber export.. or I am missig some tricks in this regard. www.oshpark.com/shared_projects/pciZta4o Edit: But you are right, if I put everything on one side I dont need the vias there at all. So youre right, that would be a solution! Edited December 16, 2016 by rel4y Cougar, CH and Saitek PnP hall sensor kits + shift registers: https://forums.eagle.ru/showthread.php?t=220916 Shapeways store for DIY flight simming equipment and repair: https://www.shapeways.com/shops/rel4y-diy-joystick-flight-simming Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sokol1_br Posted December 16, 2016 Author Share Posted December 16, 2016 Look in Photoview if solder mask are visible, they need be in C12 (blue) layer to be visible there in Gold color. Don't know about Gerber files, my PCB's is done in Laser Toner method. :) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rel4y Posted December 16, 2016 Share Posted December 16, 2016 (edited) I got it to work and it wasnt easy... The problem was the file extensions were incorrectly described on the Sprint instruction page of the OCHP site. So what you need to do is not export the SMD mask and change the file extensions to what I did via the button which I marked. The link for the PCB is beneath and now I think all looks correct. Thanks again for the help guys! https://www.oshpark.com/shared_projects/Omol0oNq Edited December 16, 2016 by rel4y Cougar, CH and Saitek PnP hall sensor kits + shift registers: https://forums.eagle.ru/showthread.php?t=220916 Shapeways store for DIY flight simming equipment and repair: https://www.shapeways.com/shops/rel4y-diy-joystick-flight-simming Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Schredder Posted December 18, 2016 Share Posted December 18, 2016 Hi Guys, Iv'e been passive for a long time from these forums (life makes their own plans...) I designed and built some boards for making my local community a way to make their own panels. If there's an interest I will make some for you ( to fund my further developments) :smartass: This board enables 96 inputs. compact and simple. Using SMD components its very dense and could fit well in place without much "spaghetti" wiring. changing and trouble shooting will be simple as possible. I also made and will make some more breakout boards to enable flexability to various panels and controllers designs. In other words... My intention is to make some BUILD BLOCKS. so everyone could stack them together as he wishes to form his own panel. For example, This design came up in my local community as a generic panel to fit all with a good price to value ratio. Build quality is going to be preety good (I'm gonna run it with my homemade cnc) but everything in its time... Please share your thoughts about it. any comments and/or suggestions are welcomed. Cheers ! Nir Nir Bar "Schredder" "In the warrior code there's no surrender, though his body says stop,his spirit cries... NEVER !!!" Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brewnix Posted December 23, 2016 Share Posted December 23, 2016 Brewnix, Try setting the encoders up with 2 columns and 6 rows, instead. So the encoders use the same 2 columns, but individual rows. Ok so i reventured in to the Rotary Encoder setup after a break re did some things. Found New version of mmjoy on google drive , this one v20161101. Re did my PCB to just 3 encoders per board and soldered 2 boards up for 6 encoders 12 buttons. Got it working. I also threw in there 4 axis for later. SO for a total of 25 button presses.12 buttons are encoders and the rest of the buttons are on 2 cd4021 shift registers. I used Debolestis boards from OshPark for the SR like in my throttle. I had to build a Y harness for the encoder matrix. I used encoders with 20 detent and center button press. I also tried encoders with 30 detent. But the 20 clicks fires every click and the 30 click encoder fires every other click. Didn't feel right. I like the 20 click encoders. I iam not sure what was wrong with previous version for the encoders but this new version works good.So the PCB i des for encoders work good i built in Fritzing. And a modification of PCB Promicro shield i had been helped on building,I have started my own shared projects in OshPark. https://www.oshpark.com/profiles/Brewnix This is just for funnsy. Thanks for all the help. [sIGPIC][/sIGPIC] Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brewnix Posted February 22, 2017 Share Posted February 22, 2017 Hi all, Got a question. Can you configure MMjoy to slow down a axis? I use a thumbstick with 2 10k ohm pots for TDC slew. But when I move the stick from its resting place lets say from 0 to 10. The closer I get to 10 the faster the cursor moves.I would like to cut the speed in half. I have tired using the saturation in the axis tuning section but I think there might be something not right its maintains it speed it works for a bit but later in the mission or flying session it speeds back up again. I like the speed when I use the TDCslew with a hat switch which register as buttons presses. If that makes sense Thanks! [sIGPIC][/sIGPIC] Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts