Another engine keeps blowing thread

I've read several forum posts on this and tried everything. Motor still blows shortly after takeoff with temps all in the green (between the markers) and revs at or below 2,500 (rpm control in auto).

What's the trick to keep this thing from grenading like a blown honda motor?

Thanks for any help!

I know only one reason for this happening: Engine governor is not ON. Some people believe it's ON when the switch is in the upper position but that's not so. You have to flip it down before you start the take-off run.

I've read several forum posts on this and tried everything. Motor still blows shortly after takeoff with temps all in the green (between the markers) and revs at or below 2,500 (rpm control in auto).

 

What's the trick to keep this thing from grenading like a blown honda motor?

 

Thanks for any help!

Move the throttle slowly forward

Razo+r is right. At the moment i´m starting also with smooth throttle.

But don´t use MW injection at the start. You can also read this recommendation in original docs.

If you can a little bit german. In this scan of an original document on page 12 is the description for take off.

In german take off calls Abflug. Good luck:)

I know only one reason for this happening: Engine governor is not ON. Some people believe it's ON when the switch is in the upper position but that's not so. You have to flip it down before you start the take-off run.

I only know of the automatic propeller pitch switch. I did not think it was a governor/engine speed limiter. Is there another switch I'm missing? I put it in the down (back) position and note auto pitch movement on the pitch indicator before takeoff. I'm cautious with the throttle so as to not over rev the engine and I try to allow the auto pitch to keep up with engine load.

Razo+r is right. At the moment i´m starting also with smooth throttle.

But don´t use MW injection at the start. You can also read this recommendation in original docs.

If you can a little bit german. In this scan of an original document on page 12 is the description for take off.

In german take off calls Abflug. Good luck:)

Thanks guys I will try that. I'm assuming the slow throttle is to prevent from over revving the engine? What is the redline rpm for this motor? (I should probably just look at the manual for this...)

Do you pre-warm the engine? If not, there is your problem.

I know only one reason for this happening: Engine governor is not ON. Some people believe it's ON when the switch is in the upper position but that's not so. You have to flip it down before you start the take-off run.

I have it set to manual, but always make sure my PP is set to 12:00. Rads are set to open. And advance the throttle smoothly. No issues.

Shortly after the wheels are up, I go to auto PP and auto Rads.

Yup, it's in the manual:

cruise= 2400 rpm and 1.25 ATA

combat= 2600rpm and 1.35 ATA 30 min continuous

w/WEP= 2800 and 1.75 ATA (w/MW50) 10 min continuous

Do you pre-warm the engine? If not, there is your problem.

Yes, but maybe not long enough... Temps are usually between the markers on takeoff. How long should you warm up the engine?

Yep...I use the same values like you.

Notleistung/WEP: 2800 U/min 1,75 ata max 10 minutes

Kampfleistung/combat power: 2600 U/min 1,35ata max 30 minutes

Reiseflug/cruise flight: 2400 U/min 1,25ata continous rating

Yep...I use the same values like you.

 

Notleistung/WEP: 2800 U/min 1,75 ata max 10 minutes

Kampfleistung/combat power: 2600 U/min 1,35ata max 30 minutes

Reiseflug/cruise flight: 2400 U/min 1,25ata continous rating

Good point... manual says 10 and 30 minutes respectively for total rated time for those power settings not continuous.

Yes, but maybe not long enough... Temps are usually between the markers on takeoff. How long should you warm up the engine?

I've never warmed up, other than what it takes for me to taxi and lift off. I'm like a scrambling Hun... :) Never had an issue, (maybe a 2 min taxi is enough to warm her up?)

Just followed all of this and babied the crap out of the motor and it still blew up about 3 mintues after takeoff. Engine was set to 2000 rpm with the auto governor on. What the heck???

Coolant was a little warm but still within the limits on the gauge. Radiator was set to auto.

Just followed all of this and babied the crap out of the motor and it still blew up about 3 mintues after takeoff. Engine was set to 2000 rpm with the auto governor on. What the heck???

 

Coolant was a little warm but still within the limits on the gauge. Radiator was set to auto.

I generally keep my Rads open on T/O and on approach. Not much air speed to keep the air flow going just yet.

I would expect at 2000rpm things should be just fine. that's weird. I'll jump in my K-4 and do a few more tests.

Yes, but maybe not long enough... Temps are usually between the markers on takeoff. How long should you warm up the engine?

Have a look at page 123 in the manual, there are a couple of things you gotta check.

Have a look at page 123 in the manual, there are a couple of things you gotta check.

Followed the manual to the letter and the motor blew up maybe a minute after startup 2 times in a row. Wasn't even able to get the temps in the green to taxi.

I can't believe other people aren't having this problem....

Thanks again guys for the help.

Open radiators on startup? Make a video of your typical takeoff then, hard to guess what you are doing. Could be a lot.

Yes I have tried that. Although I will say the radiator flaps appear to be non responsive no matter what setting I place them in. I have tried startup with them in auto and open. Neither seems to have an effect. I will try to upload a track (will that work or do you need a video?).

109 radiator flaps start moving when engine reach at least 750RPM, they do not move at idle or when engine does not running

before engine startup you set them open and after startup slightly increase power and they will open

Sounds like you arent engaging the governor. Its a 2 position switch just aft of the throttle and it should be aft.

109 radiator flaps start moving when engine reach at least 750RPM, they do not move at idle or when engine does not running

before engine startup you set them open and after startup slightly increase power and they will open

Thank you! That explains why there weren't moving. As per the startup procedure in the manual though you aren't supposed to exceed 600 rpm on startup for the first 30-45 seconds or not to exceed 9.5 (or was it 9.75?) oil pressure. Maybe I'm not advancing the throttle enough on warm up after the initial 30 seconds or so...

Sounds like you arent engaging the governor. Its a 2 position switch just aft of the throttle and it should be aft.

The engine is dying before I ever exceed 600 rpm. And on the off chance I manage to take off I ensure that either I a: don't exceed 2500 rpm or b: have the governor set to auto and that I use slow throttle inputs so as to not overwhelm the governor.

Thank you! That explains why there weren't moving. As per the startup procedure in the manual though you aren't supposed to exceed 600 rpm on startup for the first 30-45 seconds or not to exceed 9.5 (or was it 9.75?) oil pressure. Maybe I'm not advancing the throttle enough on warm up after the initial 30 seconds or so...

Paradoxically the engine will blow at 600 RPM, sooner than at 1000 RPM. I never drop it below 1000 RPM and I've never had a 109 engine failure on the ground. (Or in the air for that matter). Then again Im used to the Spitifire engine, compared to the Merlin, the DB605 is built like a nuclear reactor.

P.S. Airspeed is more important than ATA setting or RPM. If you set the governor on auto, you can forget about the RPM really.

Paradoxically the engine will blow at 600 RPM, sooner than at 1000 RPM. I never drop it below 1000 RPM and I've never had a 109 engine failure on the ground. (Or in the air for that matter). Then again Im used to the Spitifire engine, compared to the Merlin, the DB605 is built like a nuclear reactor.

 

P.S. Airspeed is more important than ATA setting or RPM. If you set the governor on auto, you can forget about the RPM really.

That's interesting because I'm used to the Merlin and hardly ever have an engine failure with either the spit or the mustang and I constantly have engine failures on this thing.