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Greasing up the Warthog


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I'm in the same boat as you NeilWillis. But Dburne mentioned that he had to buy a more recent WH and felt the sticktion. So it could be a manufacturing moved to a different location or some QA problem.

 

same here with NeilWillis. I've had my WH since 2014, and flying with a 120mm extension. Never had the sticktion.

 

Must be a later lot, manufacturing/QA thingy?

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I'm in the same boat as you NeilWillis. But Dburne mentioned that he had to buy a more recent WH and felt the sticktion. So it could be a manufacturing moved to a different location or some QA problem.

 

Yep I have two Warthog gimbals here, my original purchased in 2008 still smooth as can be, the second one I bought earlier this year is horrible. Luckily I really only needed the grip, so put it on my original Warthog.

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Don B

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  • 5 weeks later...

To give credit where credit is due: i disassembled my TM TWCS throttle yesterday and cleaned it from all grease (gave it a good rub with cleaning alcohol just to be sure). I then applied the often mentioned Nyogel 767a and its true....stiction, which my TWCS fairly strongly had due to its rail design, is completely gone. It just moves completely fluidly, minuscule adjustments are a joy, not a chore anymore.

 

Wether the heavier feel and slower movement (you can't raise and slower throttle inputs quite as fast as before due to its dampening nature, that was rather the point huh :) ) is considered a pro or con, is for everyone to decide themselves. Might be a little bit slow for helicopter flying, perfect for jets. On the other hand, it provides for the tiniest adjustments when hovering in a helo and janking your throttle/collective is seldom a good idea anyways.

 

We'll see how this stuff holds up over time. I'll do the same with my fairly new Warthog stick. I ordered from http://www.micro-tools.de/OEle-Fette/Fett-stark-daempfend.html which has it on offer in Germany. Was about 25 euro including shipping for two oz or 56gr.

 

Anyway, this is how TM should ship their products in the first place! I reckon it would be quite cheaper for them to order that stuff on industry scales. Besides, it takes about 1-2 grams for said throttle, probably a good deal more for the Warthog stick. Still, that would not increase the price in any way worth mentioning, not considering that the input unit you buy only becomes really usable after applying it.

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To give credit where credit is due: i disassembled my TM TWCS throttle yesterday and cleaned it from all grease (gave it a good rub with cleaning alcohol just to be sure). I then applied the often mentioned Nyogel 767a and its true....stiction, which my TWCS fairly strongly had due to its rail design, is completely gone. It just moves completely fluidly, minuscule adjustments are a joy, not a chore anymore.

 

Wether the heavier feel and slower movement (you can't raise and slower throttle inputs quite as fast as before due to its dampening nature, that was rather the point huh :) ) is considered a pro or con, is for everyone to decide themselves. Might be a little bit slow for helicopter flying, perfect for jets. On the other hand, it provides for the tiniest adjustments when hovering in a helo and janking your throttle/collective is seldom a good idea anyways.

 

We'll see how this stuff holds up over time. I'll do the same with my fairly new Warthog stick. I ordered from http://www.micro-tools.de/OEle-Fette/Fett-stark-daempfend.html which has it on offer in Germany. Was about 25 euro including shipping for two oz or 56gr.

 

Anyway, this is how TM should ship their products in the first place! I reckon it would be quite cheaper for them to order that stuff on industry scales. Besides, it takes about 1-2 grams for said throttle, probably a good deal more for the Warthog stick. Still, that would not increase the price in any way worth mentioning, not considering that the input unit you buy only becomes really usable after applying it.

 

Nyogel really does make the gimbal feel much better. It is really the only way someone should fly with the Hog, the improvement is significant. Still, the gimbal design is flawed at it's core and as a result is still relatively mediocre compared to other, more well designed options.

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I Nyogeled my 'Hog (and removed mould lines from *inside* the peg holes) and it's a completely different beast! Smooth adjustments are easy now, before it would jerk about with all but the largest of strong and very deliberate direction changes. And I like the different feel the Nyogel gives.

 

I also plan to Nyogel my TWCS which became impossible to make fine adjustments after only a week of moderate use.

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I put on about as much as there was original TM grease (that red stuff) which was fine, except there was a touch to much on the gimbal where it makes contact with the o-ring and made a sticky squelching noise when I pushed it so far as to make contact. I wiped a very small amount off the lip which make the contact and it stopped sounding like a cinema floor.

 

Couldn't give you an exact amount as I bought a 100gm tube, but I did put a thin coat on every surface that made contact.

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Pfff much respect for those of you brave enough to open the beast.

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I put on about as much as there was original TM grease (that red stuff) which was fine, except there was a touch to much on the gimbal where it makes contact with the o-ring and made a sticky squelching noise when I pushed it so far as to make contact. I wiped a very small amount off the lip which make the contact and it stopped sounding like a cinema floor.

 

Couldn't give you an exact amount as I bought a 100gm tube, but I did put a thin coat on every surface that made contact.

 

Did you also use nyogel on the springs? I kinda don't want to waste too much when i regrease my stick because i only bought a 10g tube.

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  • 4 months later...
Anyone know where to get Nyogel 767a in Europe?

 

I got my 100g tube from this Shop:

 

https://shop.newgatesimms.com/product/nyogel-767a/

 

Opted for normal shipping than the faster more expensive one - took about 4 weeks to arrive.

 

Per gram, this is a very good price when compared to the 10g tubes.

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  • 5 months later...

Just so I understand this correctly, after cleaning and lubing with Nyogel 767A, does the joystick come back to center by itself fairly quick or normal or is it super slow and you have to manually move it to center?? I watched this video and it looks like the Nyogel slows this test down by a lot. How does that compare to the Warthog gimbal and tolerances?

Thanks

 

 

video:

https://


Edited by davebert
youtube links doesn't work after embed
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Just so I understand this correctly, after cleaning and lubing with Nyogel 767A, does the joystick come back to center by itself fairly quick or normal or is it super slow and you have to manually move it to center?? I watched this video and it looks like the Nyogel slows this test down by a lot. How does that compare to the Warthog gimbal and tolerances?

Thanks

 

 

video:

https://

 

Mine returns normally, feels like I dipped in honey and I use an extension. As to how hard it is, following the directions, having a suitable workspace, and taking it slowly it is easy. I am not very good at this type of work. I did greased the springs, polished the gimbal spheres, and also nyogeled (good to know this is a thing) my TWCS throttle and T16000 stick. The biggest change was on the TWCS, that stock slider sucks big time and I have returned 2 units in 2 years. After nyogel its a whole different feel, definitely magic stuff :joystick:. Don’t be scared, go for it and enjoy.

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@joca133 I ''nyogeled (good to know this is a thing) my TWCS throttle'' as well like 6 months ago and yeah...that thing was not usable before, and now its a dream. It actually feels even better now than it did a couple of weeks after applying the stuff. Still need to do it on my t.16000m and Warthog stick. Nyogel really is a saviour.


Edited by sc_neo
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  • 1 month later...

bde53f2603f4f3557842cb5a4f7dd2e997a0474b_2_666x500.jpeg

I borked my stick being too lazy to go downstairs to get my spectacles :doh:

I need to know how to disassemble the sensor housing in the top gimble so I can attempt to reattatch 2 wires that snapped off while putting it together with the inner gimble cutout (for the wires) on the wrong side,

Any suggestions gratefully received and feel free to berate me for being a class A tool :helpsmilie:


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  • 7 months later...

Hello!

 

I've just finished my Warthog "upgrade" and I must say this is a MUST!!! Just sand the parting line flashes, use good grease (I used automotive PTFE grese) and it is like night and day. Now I'm 100% satisfied, but personally I think that Thrustmaster should improve the stick to be like this from the beginning. Remember to view some YT before :)

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  • 6 months later...

It Works

 

Hello,

 

PainTrain reporting in on the Nyogel 767A regreasing of the Warthog. It really works, I had a major sticktion problem where all fine movements were done with jerking motions before. After carefully disassembly and cleaning my 2nd hand warthog is better than new. Several notes for those attempting this.

 

1. When you get down to the ball joint: Push the ribbon cable and black ground wire up through the bottom of the base to give yourself enough slack to remove the connector cup.

 

2. It really does take a concerning amount of force to remove the pins the roll axis is on, just be careful of the wires and push that sucker out.

 

3. sand down any flash from the molding process. I sanded the plastic pins for the roll axis and the ball part of the joint with a squadron tri-grit sanding stick from amazon

https://www.amazon.com/Squadron-Products-Grit-Sanding-Stick/dp/B000CDM4PY

I used all 3 grits to make sure of a smooth finish.

 

4. make note of the orientation of the inner half ball for the roll axis. There is a cutout for the wires to pass through, do not twist them up.

 

That's it just clean it well and lube it up and you will be rewarded with a silky smooth flight stick.

 

-PT

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  • 1 month later...
After three months of running my Warthog without incident I finally encountered lubrication issues from all the use this thing has received. It started to stick on me all the time even to the point where I pulled the stick all the way back and it just stayed there.:shocking:

 

So after going through all the threads about disassembly and grease types I finally went out and bought some plastic friendly grease and after an hour of farting around I finally got it back together and... it was still awful. Even with loads of grease. I tried another grease and same thing. The stickshin was getting even more pronounced. :angry:

 

I resigned myself to ordering some of that Molycote stuff and wait a week for it but who can go a week without flying. :sad_2: So I tried one more time and this time I used something I had left over from my RC tank days...CERAMIC Grease. This is "apparently" specially formulated for plastic to cut sticking by 50% so I gave it a try. I can't say WOW loud enough:clap_2:. It is so smooth I almost had an accident in my pants. Would you like to know what it is???

 

Tamiaya Ceramic Grease. Yes, the same people who make plastic model kits. All hobby stores carry Tamiya products so it will be really easy to find.

 

I just wanted to pass this alone in hopes that others won't have to go through the same crap as I did to get my stick back to normal. BTW, you don't need to use gobs of it either. Just a nice film over the ball joints, o-ring and those four posts.

Another great grease...

 

 

Super Lube

 

https://www.super-lube.com/

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  • 3 years later...

Is Tamiya Cera-grease HG the same as this "ceramic grease?" I can't find anything specifically called "ceramic grease."

Also, are there any reference pics of how the gasket is supposed to be positioned? Mine fell out of place and I can't find any pictures or videos clearly showing where the gasket is supposed to be.

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1 hour ago, Nealius said:

Also, are there any reference pics of how the gasket is supposed to be positioned? Mine fell out of place and I can't find any pictures or videos clearly showing where the gasket is supposed to be.

It's meant to be glued to internal flange of this pressure plate thingy sliding up and down on four pegs. Take a look here:

As a side note, from my own experience, superglue might not be the best one to use for reinstalling the gasket back in place. Mine stayed there for a few year afterwards but fell apart to pieces eventually. Either this particular type of rubber didn't like cyanoacrylates, or it couldn't flex enough after hefty superglue application around all the circumference, or maybe it just deteriorated because of age. In either case, I use joystick extension so getting rid of the gasket completely turned out to be better solution actually.

 

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2 hours ago, Art-J said:

In either case, I use joystick extension so getting rid of the gasket completely turned out to be better solution actually.

I'm on an extension as well but didn't think about that. No potential issues from removing the gasket entirely?

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I'm on an extension as well but didn't think about that. No potential issues from removing the gasket entirely?
When I got my extension and spring update. The gasket had disintegrated, so I used it before I got some Teflon replacements from Buddyfox. Don't think there's a difference really.

Sent from my SM-A536B using Tapatalk

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