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Old 02-17-2018, 08:31 AM   #31
yoreh
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Hi all, here's an update for the cyclic force trim system.
Yesterday i had smoe free time and was able to finish the system installation. first, i installed the rail and force gardient for the X axis. then i installed the two electromagnetic locks:





I then made a temporary connection of the magnets to the PSU, in order to shoot a short video of the system in action while still on the workbench. in the video, you can see the stick movement before force-trim is appliied. then i connect the PSU to the power and from this point you can see the stick movement with force-trim applied.



Now comes the time to install the cyclic on the simulator frame. for that i made a metal frame out of a 20mm square tubing. i welded it in place (between the chair and pedals). in the photo you can see the cyclic on the frame (with clamps), just before drilling the holes for the bolts.



i drilled and secured it with nine M6 bolts. i used so many bolts because i have noticed that when force trim is applied, the spring resistance on the stick causes some deformation of the stick base plate.

After the stick was secured, i installed the grip on top of it. the wires run through the stick tube all the way down and through the gimbal mechanizm. i connected the push button to the system, using a relay. A relay is needed because the push button is Normlly-opened (no contact when not pushed). so the push button energize a relay, the magnets are connected to a normally-closed contact of the relay. the end result is when the button is pushed, the relay is energized, the magnet are de-energized and the stick is free to move to a new center. when the button is releasesd, the relay is de-energized, the magnets are energized, and the stick is trimed to it's new relative center.



Whlie testing the stick movement, two problem were discoverd:

1. when stick not trimmed - there's a grinding filling on the Y axis.
2. when stick is trimmed - a small freeplay of the stick shaft on the Y axis.

the first problem was solved by increasing the gap between the magnet and metal bar of the Y axis.

the second problem came from a deformation of the stick shaft right at it's connection point to the gimbal. the M6 bolt used to connect them, when tied, deformed the shaft into a eliptical shape, thus allowing it to free move on the socket. i solved the problem by adding a small set screw on the stick shaft, perpendicular to the M6 bolt. (just a small no-head allen screw).

After i was saticfied with the stick action, i took everythig apart, cleaned, welded, grined and painted all the parrts.





The next stage is connecting the motion sensors, the main board and an electrical box.

Cheers,
Yoreh
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Old 02-17-2018, 11:03 AM   #32
molevitch
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Amazing work Yoreh! Same system as mine, but far better execution!!! I wish I had the facilities you have....
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Old 02-19-2018, 09:26 AM   #33
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Well done!
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Old 02-20-2018, 02:56 PM   #34
yoreh
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Originally Posted by molevitch View Post
Amazing work Yoreh! Same system as mine, but far better execution!!! I wish I had the facilities you have....
Thank you sir!! Actually your system was the isperation for mine ☺ (take a look at post #26...). I really anches to try it already

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Old 02-20-2018, 02:56 PM   #35
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Well done!
Thank you sir.

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Old 02-21-2018, 09:00 AM   #36
marques
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bufff, I´m speechless and envious, I can tell you.
I have a question, because I¨m thinking on trying to install a similar system but I fly also aircraft. Does the dampers have range enough to cover all joystick movement? What I have in mind is that, if so, blocking the sliders in the center produces a kind of standar spring-centered joystick, isn´t it? Well, with the advantage of having springs for every axis.
Sorry for my english, I don´t know if I´m explaining myself....
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Old 02-21-2018, 10:28 AM   #37
yoreh
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Quote:
Originally Posted by marques View Post
bufff, I´m speechless and envious, I can tell you.
I have a question, because I¨m thinking on trying to install a similar system but I fly also aircraft. Does the dampers have range enough to cover all joystick movement? What I have in mind is that, if so, blocking the sliders in the center produces a kind of standar spring-centered joystick, isn´t it? Well, with the advantage of having springs for every axis.
Sorry for my english, I don´t know if I´m explaining myself....
Hi marques, thank you. I belive the dumpers cover all the range but i will have to make sure. Right now the system is taken apart for painting and electicall wiring. As soon as it on again I'll give it a try...

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Old 02-24-2018, 06:04 PM   #38
yoreh
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Alright, so after the paint had dried, i started the re-assembly, and now was the time to mount the motion sensors and some wiring.

The Y axis sensor is installed directly on it's rotating shaft. i welded an M5 bolt to the end of the shaft, and replaced the two M8 bolts that hold the braeing with longer M8 threaded rod. i made a plate for the sensor and istalled it on those rods with nuts on both sides. to connect the M5 bolt to the sensor i made aluminum couplers on the mini lathe.

Y axis sensor installed:



i had to cut from the upper plate in order to make room for this installation
the same method was used for the X axis sensor. the only difference is this sensor is mounted on the bell crank shaft (that is because i had limited space on the gimbal mechanism).
in order to connect all wiring of the cyclic, a junction box was needed. i chose to install it on the floor plate of the cyclic, at the rear part. this is from below:



i then routed all the wires into this box (grip, magnets, sensors)



i then closed everything up. at this point the cyclic is mechanicly ready. what's left to be done is to hook up all the wires in the JB to one multi-wire cable (db-25), witch will connect to the main board of the sim.







JB location:



After the wiring is over maybe i will finaly clear my head for the next project (collective system).

Cheers,
Yoreh
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Old 02-27-2018, 05:24 PM   #39
PilotMi8
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Quote:
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After the wiring is over maybe i will finaly clear my head for the next project (collective system).
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Old 03-10-2018, 07:22 AM   #40
yoreh
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Thank you PilotMi8!

As a final stage of the cyclic, i took a 25X0.5 cable and soldered a DB25 connector at it's end -





the other end was connected to the junction wbox with terminals -



Hooking up the pedals rotary sensor.

i used the same sensor as the cyclic. i took an aluminum rod and drilled a 6mm hole for the sensor shaft, and tapped an M5 hole for the set scerw -



sensor on the rod -



i installed an angle bracket for the sensor at the right location -



i then cut the rod to lentgh, and drilled a second 6mm hole at the other end. with the aid of an M6 linkage and an M6 long bolt, i hooked up the sensor to the pedals "T" bar section -



i don't like this setup 100% but it works so i have no intentions to delay on that.

i did some more work on my instrument panel. the encoder brackets were replaced with smaller ones. i did not like the aliexpress encoder heads so i decided to make some myself. i started wi 12mmX20mm aluninum rod. in the picture the rods after knurling process, and the original heads from aliexpress -



i drilled a hole in the center for the encoder shaft, and tapped two M5 set screws. this is how it looks like -





i added a frame for the Attitude indicator. on the frame i mounted two encoders for the pitch / roll adjustment -



that's all for now. i'm starting to stress with the amount of work yet to be done

cheers,
Yoreh
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